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Old Mar 19, 2012, 10:38 PM
Balsa&Tissue
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United States, OR, Beaverton
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Old Apr 17, 2012, 11:40 PM
Balsa&Tissue
payne9999's Avatar
United States, OR, Beaverton
Joined Jan 2011
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Finally got back on the project. Needed to get a new roof started on the house and work went into high pressure mode. Anyway tonight I finally figured out a way to connect the cowlings that is easily removed so I spent some time mounting them and spacing the motors correctly to clear the cowls.



I am anxious to get back into it so I can finish and do the maiden.

Dave
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Old Apr 26, 2012, 09:33 PM
Balsa&Tissue
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United States, OR, Beaverton
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Hit sort of a flat spot where I was not motivated to work on the DC-6. Back on it now and anxious to maiden it. built and installed the tail assemblies and red beacon on the fin. I need to figure out the rudder, elevator and steering servos and pushrods next.



This build has been a bigger effort than I expected.

Dave
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Old May 02, 2012, 05:51 AM
Balsa&Tissue
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United States, OR, Beaverton
Joined Jan 2011
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This plane is going to have nice visibility with the additional size. I have trouble with orientation on smaller models and I am looking forward to this one and being able to see it better.

Working on the retractable nose gear installation. Here is a comparison photo with the original 60" model next to it:

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Old May 02, 2012, 01:45 PM
This is a fine fiddly business
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United States, WA, Marysville
Joined May 2009
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Dave,
Your fuselage is a beautiful, orderly forest of sticks. Nothing looks better. Really.

Re visibility: Silver-Gray plane in the Pacific Northwest sky. I feel your pain. My sport plane high visibility markings are as close to black as possible on the bottom and as close to white as possible on the top. Unfortunately, that thought doesn't help a bit when your scale subject color is a variant of Washington/Oregon sky gray. I make gray planes too. Ah, the price of beauty.

Best,
Robert R
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Old May 02, 2012, 03:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by payne9999 View Post
Hit sort of a flat spot where I was not motivated to work on the DC-6. Back on it now and anxious to maiden it. built and installed the tail assemblies and red beacon on the fin. I need to figure out the rudder, elevator and steering servos and pushrods next.



This build has been a bigger effort than I expected.

Dave
How did you get those beautiful filets between the Nacelles and wing ? I stand in awe of them !
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Old May 02, 2012, 07:30 PM
Balsa&Tissue
payne9999's Avatar
United States, OR, Beaverton
Joined Jan 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Robert R View Post
Dave,
Your fuselage is a beautiful, orderly forest of sticks. Nothing looks better. Really.

Re visibility: Silver-Gray plane in the Pacific Northwest sky. I feel your pain. My sport plane high visibility markings are as close to black as possible on the bottom and as close to white as possible on the top. Unfortunately, that thought doesn't help a bit when your scale subject color is a variant of Washington/Oregon sky gray. I make gray planes too. Ah, the price of beauty.

Best,
Robert R
Robert,

Thanks, Pat Tritle ( the original designer of the plane) calls it 500 lineal feet of balsa in formation.

Yep, the Sky gray thing is an issue but at least with this size plane it is a little easier. I also added srobes on the wingtips, red and green position markers, landing lights and a red tail beacon. I have two other models with this marking system and on a gray day it really helps.

Dave
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Old May 02, 2012, 07:39 PM
Balsa&Tissue
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Originally Posted by 4stroker View Post
How did you get those beautiful filets between the Nacelles and wing ? I stand in awe of them !
4 Stroker,

The fillets are no big deal, kinda came to be by accident. The plans come with fillet patterns that you would make from paper that is painted silver. I tried it that way and couldn't make it work. So, I decided to make a compromise and just cover the nacelles and the wing panels and have no fillets. So, I covered the nacelles first and really sealed the edges and wrapped the ParkLite around the edges of the stringers. Then I cut a "U" shaped piece that would fit around the nacelles and cover the adjacent wing panels. I sealed those down extra good as well to the nacelle covering that was already there. Then when I hit it with the hot air gun the magic just happened and the covering where the nacelles join the wings pulled up and away from the framing but remained bonded to each other and formed these awesome little fillets that are very consistent but totally by accident. I believe this would work with any plane with nacelles. If you go too crazy with the heat they will eventually pull apart.

Anyway, once in a while dumb luck strikes. Not as often as "Murphy" though.

Dave
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Old May 02, 2012, 08:17 PM
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Originally Posted by payne9999 View Post
4 Stroker,

The fillets are no big deal, kinda came to be by accident. The plans come with fillet patterns that you would make from paper that is painted silver. I tried it that way and couldn't make it work. So, I decided to make a compromise and just cover the nacelles and the wing panels and have no fillets. So, I covered the nacelles first and really sealed the edges and wrapped the ParkLite around the edges of the stringers. Then I cut a "U" shaped piece that would fit around the nacelles and cover the adjacent wing panels. I sealed those down extra good as well to the nacelle covering that was already there. Then when I hit it with the hot air gun the magic just happened and the covering where the nacelles join the wings pulled up and away from the framing but remained bonded to each other and formed these awesome little fillets that are very consistent but totally by accident. I believe this would work with any plane with nacelles. If you go too crazy with the heat they will eventually pull apart.

Anyway, once in a while dumb luck strikes. Not as often as "Murphy" though.

Dave
Thanks much Dave . I have an Acme 48" Beech D18 that I will try that on . I couldn't think of anyway to make the fillets look good and still be light (no green putty !) Walt
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Old May 02, 2012, 11:08 PM
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United States, Mt, Libby
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4stroker View Post
Thanks much Dave . I have an Acme 48" Beech D18 that I will try that on . I couldn't think of anyway to make the fillets look good and still be light (no green putty !) Walt
In saving weight, don't use the green putty, instead use Light weight spackle.
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Old May 04, 2012, 07:03 AM
Balsa&Tissue
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United States, OR, Beaverton
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Installed and tested the nose retract and steering servo. I need to figure out a way to put in some sheeting to form the opening. I am getting close to being ready to cover the fuselage and the balance the airplane to determine where the battery bay will need to be.





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Old May 04, 2012, 03:13 PM
Balsa&Tissue
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United States, OR, Beaverton
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Rough carving the paulownia wood nose block. I hate trying to get all the curves just right but it usually comes out nice in the end....

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Old May 06, 2012, 11:09 AM
Balsa&Tissue
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United States, OR, Beaverton
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Well, made some decent progress:

-Completed the tail linkages and tested them
-Installed a fairing around the nose gear opening
-Completed the nose cone
-Completed the pink foam fill over the cockpit
-Added servo extensions for nose gear retract and nose steering servo
-Tested the receiver and all control surfaces.

I suppose it is time to do some final sanding and cover the fuselage.





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Old May 06, 2012, 12:10 PM
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Very Cool !
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Old May 06, 2012, 05:56 PM
Balsa&Tissue
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United States, OR, Beaverton
Joined Jan 2011
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Made the cowling that goes in front of and under the windshield and started the windshield patterns.

This piece and the nose will be flat black


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