I'll start off my 900th post here with a new project. After months of deciding what to build, and then actually pulling the trigger on it. I have rejoined the world of CA'ed fingers.

I purchased this morning from Long Branch Hobbies and our own Rich Koll ( frankg), the Dumas kit. I have wanted to build this boat for a long time. I love mahogany boats ( who doesn't?) and I figured this would be a great way to start to get my feet wet on building one.

I have already read many threads on this boat here, including Patmat's. I purchased his book to read, which so far has been very enjoyable and helpful ( I am about 20 pages in). It's full of some really geat pictures and descriptions. I hope over the next few weeks and months to share my build experience with the group at large, and rely on some of you for tips and hints.

Here a few pictures to start things off.

Scott

You did the right thing by opening the box right away,that's what I did.Then I got right to framing up the boat with C.A and some Kicker.Within no time I seemed to get a fair amount accomplished and that only helped push the build along.I bought Rich's crackerbox boat for my first build.Looking back,opening the box and immediately jumping into it is the only way to do it.If I messed up I had to say to myself it doesn't have to be perfect for my first build.Anyway only I know where my mistakes happened and the boat turned out really good,considering it was a first build.Richs instructions are second to none.Keep us up on the progress.

CaliforniaKid thanks for the encouragement. This is not my first build, just my first mahogany hull. I have made plenty of mistakes on my other builds, but noone seems to notice them, or they are too nice not to tell me

The best part of having a boat I find is the building experience.Where we sail we often have a few people who stop by, look around, ask questions etc. Always seems to amaze me their reponse when they ask "where did you get that boat?" When you tell them you built it, some have utter disbelief, others just seem to have this smile and look on thier face, like "no way!" Then you get to tell them how you did this or did that.

Some progress made tonight in both reading Pat's book and on the model. Nothing too major, I'll post pictures tomorrow.

Scott

I'm watching this build.

Some more progress today. This part of the build is going quickly, but I expected that by the simplicification process put in place by Dumas. So far, really happy with the directions, descriptions etc in the Dumas instructions. No issues putting anything together and seems to be going well.

I put together Frames 5,6 &7 last night, adding the additional support they needed. I also put together S1, which is the peice the frams mount too and K1, which is the keel. Today, I put the frames up and slotted K1 into the front 4 frames.

Some pics to enjoy, sorry if they look dark. I am actually working infront of a nice bright window which lets in plenty of sunlight, making it easy to work. However when I go to ake a pic, they come out too bright and washed out because of all the sun. To help, I closed the window shade.

One other note. Pat mentions in his book and I read on here in other posts about the need for kicker. Agree 100%. I find that the wood will wick in right away the CA and making a good bond will be difficult. This is especially true when you have the frames to install and the jig in place to set the angle. What I did was put some CA along the edge to be glue, put the pice down, and hold it there about 10-15 seconds. Next run a bead of CA along the edge and again hold about 10 seconds. Finally, give it a spray with the kicker. When I pulled my hand away and the jig, each fram held in place.

Some more pics.

Scott

Some more work the past 2 days. I have the chines in and the butterfly keel. I made a huge mistake on the butterfly keel, simply by being stupid. The keel I thought went around the end of K1 and not butting up against it. Even though it didn't look right, I still glued it in, only to realize later I messed up royally. No worries, I'll put the bottom piece on which will fill the gap and then from the inside I'll add some epoxy mixed with micro-ballons to build the area up. Once done no one will know the mistake except me. I am actually thinking this may be stronger then what was originally suppose to be there, and may work out for the better.

Spent a good part of yesterday and today sanding the chines to fit, along with the top deck to the frames. All looks pretty good now and I am ready for the bottom peices to be added on. Unfortunately, I have meetings both tomorrow and Wednesday morning, so no gluing until after they are done. Don't need excess CA on my hands when I go to shake someone's hand.

No pics for now, maybe tomorrow.

Scott

Updated pics including my mistake and my fix. I decided to use Squadron white putty to fill in the small area. White so it won't show as a dark spot under the Sintra bottom.

Once this is dry I'll sand it flush and then move on to adding the bottom peices.

Scott

Bottom and sides are on, but I find that there are gaps and unevenness. Iissue with the bottom where is appears the two sides did not meet up evenly along the centerline towards the transom. No issue there, I can fill with Bondo and make it work, but I am thinking of also doing a skim coat of Bondo to fill in gaps and provide an even surface.

Dumas says don't worry about it, the mahogany planking will fill this in and over. I am thinking a good base leads to a good finish. Often on painting a real 1:1 boats it's not the paint job that leads to a nice finish, but the time spent on whats under the paint.

Thoughts?

Scott

Agree on all your observations. This part bothered me the most on my build because it just didn't seem to fit together right where every other part did. After bondo and a bit of putty my concerns were relieved. Use the bondo on the keel and I would do the skim coat like you suggested. It gives you piece of mind that all is as it should be when you proceed with the planking. I also did a bit of bondo along the side and where the side Sintra meets the bottom. Planking is run on the sides but I wanted the under surface done properly. I believe it makes laying the planking easier anyways.

Qualls6 thanks for the reply. I didn't think anyone else except me was reading this thread, since there seems to be little activity on it, except what I have been posting. LOL

I was talking to Rich (frankg) at the WRAM Show today and he suggested using Evercoat instead of Bondo. I am actually more comfortable using the Evercoat than Bondo from my times using it on 1:1 boats, and will do that. Nothing major that needs to be fixed here, but I found the side peices don't meet up like I hoped and a little filling and fairing is in order. Also, the chine isn't as sharp as it should be, again, a fairly easy fix with some filler, sand paper and elbow grease and time.

Once everything is fair, I will then feel comfortable with laying mahogany plank. I took some time last night to make my first major modification. Nothing too drastic, but when closing in the cockpit the instruction say to put the side boards in and stain them and varnish as desired to match the boat finish. It's basically a flat board you insert. The real Chris' this area is made up with individual planks. I won't take the time to individially plank this area, so I did the next best thing. I went to the hobby shop and bought 1/8 thick mahogany vaneer. I then ripped 1/4" planks and carefully cut and fitted the planks on top of the side board peice. The result is a peice that looks individually planked and it only 1/8" thicker than the old peice, which will be unnoticeable on the finished boat. Once I pick a stain color, I'll stain this area and then begin the varnish.


Scott

I'm watching this build.

Originally Posted by laser110

I love mahogany boats ( who doesn't?) and I figured this would be a great way to start to get my feet wet on building one. Scott

Nothing says beauty on the water better than mahogany. Enjoy!

I read all about the Evercoat, but passed on it because of price. I wasn't sure when I would need it again and Bondo is much cheaper. Let me know what you think of the results. If I have a bigger project in the future I may spring for it.

I like the cockpit planking idea. Nothing wrong with a little realism and more detail. Are you going to modify the dash too or go with the decal?

Thanks everyone for the support Thought I was alone outthere.

Qualls6- Definately let you know about the Evercoat. I have used it in the past, but not on a model boat. It's been a while too since I have and will share my experience and pics.

I agree about the realism. you only get to do a build right one time, so why not take an extra time to do it. Part of the fun for me , has always been the building process. I am also modifying the dash. I bought bezels and pull knobs from Rich at the WRAM Show and will have to find appropiate dials I can print off and cut out to fit inside.

In my opinion, the decals Dumas gives you are junk. I am even going to have a name done, probably by Callie Graphics, once I can pick one, but we have plenty of time for that.

Scott

Not much work done today and nothing over the weekend while I was at the WRAM Show. I finished cutting off the excess Sintra to make it level with the top of S1 and then took the random orbital sander to sand everything flat, and remove any excess glue so I can then attach the main deck frames and have them sit flus to S1.

I also added the balsa bow block to be shaped. I'll let the CA set up real well on these and will shape tomorow. Most likely will have to wait till the weekend to buy the Evercoat.

Scott