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Old Nov 27, 2012, 07:19 AM
how'd I do that....oh
chop stiX's Avatar
South Africa, GP, Pretoria
Joined May 2011
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Originally Posted by wblacker View Post
Thank you, but the credit goes to you. Very nice and simple design. When I get a chance to pick up more material I will build myself one.
Welcome back to RCG Bill.
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Old Nov 28, 2012, 06:00 AM
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Austria, Tir., Innsbruck
Joined Sep 2012
20 Posts
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Originally Posted by Wing-span View Post
What about a KMS Quantum 2826/06

I'm told they are made by AXi (Model Motors)
Thanks for the Info, I already had a look on the AXi-Lineup but when I look to the dimensions of the 2826, it is on the long side. I think for the slick it's to long without a motor-box modification.

Do you have some experiences with the 2826/06 on 4S? Which prop is adequate?

Or did anyone have a good hint which motor can "fit" and also have enough power?

br,
Chris
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Old Nov 28, 2012, 06:25 AM
how'd I do that....oh
chop stiX's Avatar
South Africa, GP, Pretoria
Joined May 2011
2,251 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by auer640 View Post
Thanks for the Info, I already had a look on the AXi-Lineup but when I look to the dimensions of the 2826, it is on the long side. I think for the slick it's to long without a motor-box modification.

Do you have some experiences with the 2826/06 on 4S? Which prop is adequate?

Or did anyone have a good hint which motor can "fit" and also have enough power?

br,
Chris
TGY L3040 and 6s
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Old Nov 28, 2012, 06:55 AM
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Hello all, just wondered if someone would be kind enough to help me ref slick 360:-

1) - Have tried to get elevator in this morning but cant get it in, have others had to cut out small nib to slide elevator and stab in place directly from the back ?

2) - Am fitting NTM 4238 and using official accessory pack. Mount holes don't line up and I don't want to drill through new ones as would weaken ply on plane. Thinking of sticking new piece of 1/8th ply over mount on plane then re-drilling. Have others done the same or is there a better solution ?

3) - Accessory pack has 8mm shaft which seems excessive and prop needs serious drilling out and means cannot use nice alloy spinner, would prefer to use motor other way round thus using 5mm shaft, and use of alloy spinner and be far cleaner but if I do this, motor needs to be behind ply plate on plane therefore too far back. Has anybody got a good solution to this ?

4) - Have seen various posts about strengthening but cannot plough through 312 pages. Can someone just summarise sensible areas to consider strengthening by use of carbon strip/rod or light ply. Will look at undercart but does motor mount need anything more. ?

5) - I have had problems with canopies flying off other planes due to air pressure building up inside. I have solved this with either blocking a few holes or cutting an escape air hole underneath at the rear of the plane. Doers the slick suffer at all with this and if it does, how have people tackled it.?

6) - I have a nanotech 2600 4s 25-50c. To begin with I want to fly with a 13x8 before progressing to an APC 14x7. With mild 3d ie not to many hovers but more f3a aerobatics, can I expect 7 - 8 mins of flight or am I being optimistic. ?

Many thanks for reading and many thanks in advance to anybody that can answer my queries.

Tom
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Old Nov 28, 2012, 07:11 AM
Grumpy old git.. Who me?
JetPlaneFlyer's Avatar
Aberdeen
Joined Mar 2006
11,196 Posts
Some answers:
1) - I can’t recall how I did it but cant you just slot the elevator in first (put it in backwards then rotate it once it’s centred), followed by the fixed stabiliser, and CA the hinges in situ?
2) - You need to use the cross mount intended for the 35mm NTM motors.. I'm informed this fits ok.
3) - Just ream out the prop, it's no big deal if you get a prop reamer. You can easily drill out the spinner too.
4) - No strengthening is required the Slick is strong enough. However you should run some CA glue around the joints where the landing gear mount plate fixes. If you are really keen you can add an extra balsa former in the tail between the rudder and elevator servo positions, but that's not easy to do without taking the covering off and is a 'nice to have' not a necessity.
5) - Never heard of the canopy coming off the Slick, it has a good solid latch to hold it. But most do cut out a panel in the belly to allow cooling air to circulate.
6) - I get 7 minutes using 2200mAh batteries so you should easily get in the 7-8 minute range... providing you don’t add unnecessary weight and/or fly really hard
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Old Nov 28, 2012, 07:15 AM
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Turkey, Zonguldak
Joined Jun 2012
29 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Fly View Post
Hello all, just wondered if someone would be kind enough to help me ref slick 360:-

1) - Have tried to get elevator in this morning but cant get it in, have others had to cut out small nib to slide elevator and stab in place directly from the back ?

2) - Am fitting NTM 4238 and using official accessory pack. Mount holes don't line up and I don't want to drill through new ones as would weaken ply on plane. Thinking of sticking new piece of 1/8th ply over mount on plane then re-drilling. Have others done the same or is there a better solution ?

3) - Accessory pack has 8mm shaft which seems excessive and prop needs serious drilling out and means cannot use nice alloy spinner, would prefer to use motor other way round thus using 5mm shaft, and use of alloy spinner and be far cleaner but if I do this, motor needs to be behind ply plate on plane therefore too far back. Has anybody got a good solution to this ?

4) - Have seen various posts about strengthening but cannot plough through 312 pages. Can someone just summarise sensible areas to consider strengthening by use of carbon strip/rod or light ply. Will look at undercart but does motor mount need anything more. ?

5) - I have had problems with canopies flying off other planes due to air pressure building up inside. I have solved this with either blocking a few holes or cutting an escape air hole underneath at the rear of the plane. Doers the slick suffer at all with this and if it does, how have people tackled it.?

6) - I have a nanotech 2600 4s 25-50c. To begin with I want to fly with a 13x8 before progressing to an APC 14x7. With mild 3d ie not to many hovers but more f3a aerobatics, can I expect 7 - 8 mins of flight or am I being optimistic. ?

Many thanks for reading and many thanks in advance to anybody that can answer my queries.

Tom
Some of your answers;

1. You need to cut a small piece to slide the elevator.

2. I use the same motor. It doesn't fit and i cut another plywood and glued it just behind the firewall and redrilled. The holes is a little closer to firewall corners but i maidened the plane and no problem.

4. I put carbon strips,rods etc. Where firewall joins with airframe, plywoods which are perpendicular to airframe. I cut the bottom side of the airframe and glued the plywood with carbon rods among the airframe from front side to the tail.(Like precision aerobatics style..) )

5. In its manuel it is not mentioned about the hole for the air flow. I don't know, i wonder too?

6. With 2200mah nanotechs i have about 5 minutes safe flight time.(I am new to 3D , some hover, some basic 3d maneuvers etc.). My prop is 14x6 xoar. I think you can get 7 minutes easily with 2600mah packs.
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Old Nov 28, 2012, 08:37 AM
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Austria, Tir., Innsbruck
Joined Sep 2012
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Originally Posted by chop stiX View Post
TGY L3040 and 6s
Thanks for the hint, but I'd like to stay at 4S. I heard from some German-guys that they are very please with Leopard-motors. Has anyone used one here? Here is the 4250

br,
Chris
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Old Nov 28, 2012, 09:21 AM
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USA, VA, Fort Belvoir
Joined Jun 2008
430 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by auer640 View Post
Thanks for the Info, I already had a look on the AXi-Lineup but when I look to the dimensions of the 2826, it is on the long side. I think for the slick it's to long without a motor-box modification.

Do you have some experiences with the 2826/06 on 4S? Which prop is adequate?

Or did anyone have a good hint which motor can "fit" and also have enough power?

br,
Chris
Chris,

I am using a Turnigy SK3 3548-700 (Hobby King for $36.32). I am using a 14x7 prop and Dubro 2" spinner. Fit is excellent with no modifications required. Power is great with a 4S. I think I am getting around 900w. I am also using a $28.73 Turnigy TRUST 70 ESC (tried the Super Brain ESC and it smoked in flight). Somewhere early in this thread I posted pictures of this motor and its fit. Hope this helps.
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Old Nov 28, 2012, 09:58 AM
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Joined Nov 2012
2 Posts
Thanks very much to Mustaine and jetplaneflyer.

Just to update you, managed to get elevator in by inserting it upside down gthen rotating so thanks for hint.
The 35xx cross mount doesn't fit neither does the spindle end but nevermind, have used piece of ply and will redrill for 42-38 cross mount so thanks for hint here (good to hear reamed out prop will be OK). i have some 1mm x 6mm carbon strip and am going to Ca this to inside of fuz prob below and above wing. Will not run it to rear of plane but will go inside behind canopy. Also will use a few strips across fuz and I think a few bits of liteply around undercart and motor mount just to be on safe side along with CA as suggested.
Thanks for tip on former between the rear servos, as you say cant get in properly but will add an upright either side and a bit of balsa across the fuz directly below stab just to add support. probably OTT but I am only starting out in 3d so extreme lightness not really an issue and added parts wont add much anyway.
Finally, am going to CA a square piece of 1/8th balsa in the cavity directly below where battery fits which will have a 30mm square hole in the middle, seal covering to it then cut out the covering to provide a hole to enable air to circulate properly.

Once again thanks for speedy response and let me know if I am doing something seriously wrong ?

Tom
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Old Nov 28, 2012, 10:25 AM
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Austria, Tir., Innsbruck
Joined Sep 2012
20 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by wblacker View Post
Chris,

I am using a Turnigy SK3 3548-700 (Hobby King for $36.32). I am using a 14x7 prop and Dubro 2" spinner. Fit is excellent with no modifications required. Power is great with a 4S. I think I am getting around 900w. I am also using a $28.73 Turnigy TRUST 70 ESC (tried the Super Brain ESC and it smoked in flight). Somewhere early in this thread I posted pictures of this motor and its fit. Hope this helps.
How about the bearing-quality, how many flights do you have on the slick?

It seems, that with the Dubro-spinner the gap can be closed.

Chris
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Old Nov 28, 2012, 11:04 AM
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USA, VA, Fort Belvoir
Joined Jun 2008
430 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by auer640 View Post
How about the bearing-quality, how many flights do you have on the slick?

It seems, that with the Dubro-spinner the gap can be closed.

Chris
So far I am at about 30-40 flights. Switched into the 700Kv motor back in August. I had the 850 Kv before and did have an issue with the bearings on it. But, I was able to replace the bearings and it works fine. I don't recall the exact bearing brand, but they are inexpensive and it is very easy to change them if needed. Your other option is a Motofly which is 3x more expensive but more reliable.
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Old Nov 28, 2012, 01:30 PM
Grumpy old git.. Who me?
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Aberdeen
Joined Mar 2006
11,196 Posts
I also had the 3548 SK3 and the bearings were ok for the time I had it. It has two in the front and one in the rear. The number of bearings, location and bearing size are exactly like the similar sized Hacker motors (in fact the SK3 is pretty much exactly like a Hacker period.)
The weakness I came across wasn't the bearings, it was the basic structural strength of the motor (it snapped clean in half)... this is also a problem sometimes suffered by the Hacker.

FWIW the Motrolfly DM-2820 has the same size bearings but has three in the front and two in the rear (hasn't stopped me from doing in a set of bearings though)
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Old Nov 28, 2012, 01:32 PM
Grumpy old git.. Who me?
JetPlaneFlyer's Avatar
Aberdeen
Joined Mar 2006
11,196 Posts
Not a pretty sight:


To be fair to the motor i was driving it pretty hard.
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Old Nov 28, 2012, 02:00 PM
Prefectionist
United States, MN, Minneapolis
Joined Mar 2007
1,303 Posts
I'm up to 93 flights on my S360 and I think i'm starting to wear out the bearings on my 3548 840. My plan yet this winter is to do a teardown and check everything out.
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Old Nov 28, 2012, 02:13 PM
Grumpy old git.. Who me?
JetPlaneFlyer's Avatar
Aberdeen
Joined Mar 2006
11,196 Posts
They are simple to replace. You need (from memory):

2 off - 5mm i.d. x 8mm o.d. x 2.5mm wide
1 off - 5mm i.d. x 10mm o.d. x 4mm wide

All bearings are sealed type
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