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Old Aug 14, 2012, 08:45 AM
Santi
DaaBears's Avatar
United States, TN, Nashville
Joined Nov 2003
1,597 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by chop stiX View Post
Ok guys back to an ancient topic we discussed ages ago regarding air vents.I never posted what mine looked like so here it is
Is this sufficient? I feel like a plane this size requires a cut towards the middle of the fuse and about twice as wide to allow sufficient airflow. I usually only see the back slit on the small planes 42" and under.
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Old Aug 14, 2012, 08:48 AM
Santi
DaaBears's Avatar
United States, TN, Nashville
Joined Nov 2003
1,597 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by N6145k View Post
Should I build my FPV setup, or this plane, after I get my daughter's fun cub built?
Skip this and go with something else. I recognize you from other threads and I believe you had a 60" EF plane. Going from that to the HK plane is like trading in your iPhone for an old Nokia phone. This will be nothing but disappointment to someone used to flying quality!
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Old Aug 14, 2012, 09:34 AM
Registered User
United States, CA, Sebastopol
Joined Dec 2010
6,984 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by creapyd View Post
I've got 40 flights on mine and I have ZERO air outlet. Same on my Money shot and E-flite Extra 300.

My motor get's hot, but that's more because I'm pushing it very hard. Nothing else is even warm.
It's a different airplane, but the air outlet on the 3DHS Slick 51 is quite a bit bigger and more toward the center of the airplane.
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Old Aug 14, 2012, 09:37 AM
Santi
DaaBears's Avatar
United States, TN, Nashville
Joined Nov 2003
1,597 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by erkq View Post
It's a different airplane, but the air outlet on the 3DHS Slick 51 is quite a bit bigger and more toward the center of the airplane.
All of my EF planes were much bigger and also in the middle... For those who chose not to cut air vents, that's completely 100% up to you! In the 110 degree heat we got in TN this year, I made damn sure my airflow was sufficient and then some...
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Old Aug 14, 2012, 10:27 AM
Wherever you go there you are
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United States, MN, Minneapolis
Joined Nov 2011
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I put air egress holes on my planes because I like cool motors, ESCs and batteries. I also cut heat shrink that covers ESC heat sinks. By my way of thinking, cooler motors mean bearings that will last longer, magnets that are less likely to detach. Cooler ESCs mean more room before I hit thermal shutdown in event of servo drawing more current than it should from BEC, etc.

But if no air egress is working for you, that's okay too!
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Old Aug 15, 2012, 03:36 AM
how'd I do that....oh
chop stiX's Avatar
South Africa, GP, Pretoria
Joined May 2011
2,251 Posts
My batts,ESC and motor come down quite cool.Remember guys I'm only drawing 34A at WOT with my setup so not much heat is generated anyway
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Old Aug 15, 2012, 04:34 AM
Grumpy old git.. Who me?
JetPlaneFlyer's Avatar
Aberdeen
Joined Mar 2006
11,196 Posts
This is what I did for the vent on my HK Slick:



Seems to work fine.....
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Old Aug 15, 2012, 07:24 AM
Registered User
kings lynn, norfolk uk
Joined Sep 2007
597 Posts
are these servos any good for the slick. thanks

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dProduct=17322
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Old Aug 15, 2012, 09:10 AM
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United States, MN, Minneapolis
Joined Nov 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by peter24 View Post
are these servos any good for the slick. thanks

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dProduct=17322
I doubt it, but I haven't tried them. I'm using these on a 48" EPP plane, and they are doing okay.
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Old Aug 15, 2012, 11:31 AM
Grumpy old git.. Who me?
JetPlaneFlyer's Avatar
Aberdeen
Joined Mar 2006
11,196 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by peter24 View Post
are these servos any good for the slick. thanks

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dProduct=17322
Should be ok if you want to set it up with short servo arms and low throw for sport flying. For full 3D throws you should be looking for something with 3Kg+ of torque.
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Old Aug 15, 2012, 11:34 AM
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Dennis C's Avatar
Grass Valley California
Joined Jun 2004
2,458 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by creapyd View Post
I've got 40 flights on mine and I have ZERO air outlet. Same on my Money shot and E-flite Extra 300.

My motor get's hot, but that's more because I'm pushing it very hard. Nothing else is even warm.
Maybe not,
If the motor is getting hot you would bennifit from air flow.

As a reference from the old glo days you need more exit aeria than inlet aeria.

What you do to your motor is your business but heat equals less effeciency, and potiential dammage to magnets and bearings.

Dennis
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Old Aug 15, 2012, 11:49 AM
Prefectionist
United States, MN, Minneapolis
Joined Mar 2007
1,303 Posts
Well, I have static reliable readings on my motor temp: 156F on landing every time regardless of open air temp. I've flown in 110 - 70 weather

I planned on cutting an air hole eventually, but wanted to test first. After all E-flite Extra 300 is same size, same watts, and no cooling. I trust their design.

So, this winter after the flying season has ended, I will make a nice air exit like has been shown here. And I will be able to report on actual numbers.

Everybody seems to have added the holes before even one test flight. So you all are ASSUMING that the cooling hole is working, but you have no data. I have data, I know I am currently not at risk of burning my motor up from heat. When I cut a hole, I will be able to scientificly tell if it had any affect on my motor / esc / or battery temp.

A cooling hole will probably help, but without data you cannot state weather it is worth it or not.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dennis C View Post
Maybe not,
If the motor is getting hot you would bennifit from air flow.

As a reference from the old glo days you need more exit aeria than inlet aeria.

What you do to your motor is your business but heat equals less effeciency, and potiential dammage to magnets and bearings.

Dennis
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Old Aug 15, 2012, 12:58 PM
Wherever you go there you are
7oneWo1f's Avatar
United States, MN, Minneapolis
Joined Nov 2011
8,338 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by creapyd View Post
Well, I have static reliable readings on my motor temp: 156F on landing every time regardless of open air temp. I've flown in 110 - 70 weather

I planned on cutting an air hole eventually, but wanted to test first. After all E-flite Extra 300 is same size, same watts, and no cooling. I trust their design.

So, this winter after the flying season has ended, I will make a nice air exit like has been shown here. And I will be able to report on actual numbers.

Everybody seems to have added the holes before even one test flight. So you all are ASSUMING that the cooling hole is working, but you have no data. I have data, I know I am currently not at risk of burning my motor up from heat. When I cut a hole, I will be able to scientificly tell if it had any affect on my motor / esc / or battery temp.

A cooling hole will probably help, but without data you cannot state weather it is worth it or not.
Common sense suffices for a lot of things in life, without a need to resort to the scientific method on every new plane. That being said, I like your "trust but verify" attitude.

However, your 156 F motor temp regardless of ambient air temperature from 70 to 110 doesn't make a lot of sense. The temperature of a motor should be a function of I^2*R winding power losses, eddie current I^2*R power losses, bearing and other friction that generates heat, the effective thermal resistance of the motor to ambient air, and the temperature, airflow, density and possibly humidity of the ambient air.

It is possible there are some negative and some positive coefficients in all of this, such that your motor temperature stays roughly the same, but something else has to be going on. A 40 degree ambient temperature swing with no change in motor temperature is interesting. Did you notice any change in climb out power?
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Old Aug 15, 2012, 01:26 PM
Prefectionist
United States, MN, Minneapolis
Joined Mar 2007
1,303 Posts
I know the math, I know there should be more difference. But over the course of 42 flights (4.9% of my flying over the past 2 years) My motor toped out at 162 degrees and minimum temp on landing was 150 degrees. The median and mean are both 156. The 162 temp was on a Xoar electric13x6 on a day with 90 ambiant temp and 60% humidity. Switching to a Turnigy light electric 13x6 propeller lowered the temp by 1-3. More-so than ambiant air temp it seems humidity and barometric pressure affects the heat.

Given my data, My guess is that thicker air makes the prop drag more (and give more thrust) but the heat dissipation properties are about the same given the gradient temp difference between motor and air regardless of pressure and humidity.

For the record I have 141 flights on my E-flight Extra 300 32e with no cooling holes and have had zero problems. It's motor comes down in the 140-150 range depending on propeller.

I log most of this data for every flight I take for every plane i fly.

I suppose now somebody is going to nitpick and say "you said every landing before, now you say different" of 42 flights a variation the total deviation is 13 but both mean and median are 156 with the vast majority ending at 156.


You can definitely tell the thrust difference depending on barometric pressure. The plane is more floaty on heavy air days.

Quote:
Originally Posted by N6145k View Post
Common sense suffices for a lot of things in life, without a need to resort to the scientific method on every new plane. That being said, I like your "trust but verify" attitude.

However, your 156 F motor temp regardless of ambient air temperature from 70 to 110 doesn't make a lot of sense. The temperature of a motor should be a function of I^2*R winding power losses, eddie current I^2*R power losses, bearing and other friction that generates heat, the effective thermal resistance of the motor to ambient air, and the temperature, airflow, density and possibly humidity of the ambient air.

It is possible there are some negative and some positive coefficients in all of this, such that your motor temperature stays roughly the same, but something else has to be going on. A 40 degree ambient temperature swing with no change in motor temperature is interesting. Did you notice any change in climb out power?
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Old Aug 15, 2012, 01:36 PM
3D Wannabe
NJSwede's Avatar
United States, NJ, Mendham Township
Joined Jul 2011
813 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by N6145k View Post
I doubt it, but I haven't tried them. I'm using these on a 48" EPP plane, and they are doing okay.
I have TGY2216 in my Slick and they have performed flawlessly so far.
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