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Old May 03, 2012, 12:36 AM
bryansifsof44's Avatar
United States, AK, Anchorage
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Originally Posted by ChrisNYPilot View Post
I past my flying test last May 2011, so about a year. I have now owned the following planes: PZ Trojan, Wildcat, Extra 300. Eflite Mini Pulse XT. Airfield FMS 1400mm/1450mm Mustang, P-47, Trojan. Airfield 800mm Corsair. Great Planes Yak54. Fancyfoam 42" Freestyle. PA Mini Katana. 3DHS Slick 51, 55 Edge 540, 47 SHP, 42 Slick. A lot of flying for a year. I do not feel any real loyalty to any one manufacturer; they are all great for certain things. And some planes take alot of tinkering to get them to fly right. But I do resent the animosity toward HK on this thread. It doesn't make me what to go out and buy another 3dhs plane. And I had recently been talking to Noll about restock coming in on the 57 Extra 330SC and actually just got an email notification from Extreme Flight the that 60" Extra is coming back in stock. The timing coincidence does make me wonder if they are both coming from the same factory in China, but I digress. My point is that these threads are for the pilots seeking real information, not wasting each others time. Sorry for the rant.
With that said welcome to the HK Slick thread... If you plan on sticking around better get used to it.
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Old May 03, 2012, 12:55 AM
Grumpy old git.. Who me?
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Originally Posted by ChrisNYPilot View Post
Has anyone flown this plane. It's also one of the new 3d planes from HK. Seems to be almost no videos or reviews on this plane, but it looks tempting.

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dproduct=19339
Check the reviews on the HK site. The model looks pretty good but it does seem to have one of the Achilles heals suffered by a lot of balsa 3D models (not just HK).. weak landing gear mount. Check the HK video page: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...59b7d7ed0c414a

At least the horizontal stab should be ok (a weak area on several HK 3D models) because it's air-foiled. The canopy also should be fine as it's retained by a latch, not magnets.

Personally I'd go with the Slick, it's a great flying model.

Steve
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Old May 03, 2012, 02:02 AM
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bonner's Avatar
alex va.
Joined Oct 2008
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Originally Posted by bigroger View Post
Have you had a chance to run that 700kV up and measure rpm and amps on 4s with 14x7 and 15x6 props?

Be very interested in the outcome!
My friend just ordered his plane and we are going to install the 700Kv motor in his. I already have the motor. I'll post a note to your attention when we maiden it with the numbers.
BTW, My younger brother's name is littleroger hehe
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Old May 03, 2012, 05:04 AM
how'd I do that....oh
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South Africa, GP, Pretoria
Joined May 2011
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I'm a little slow here,but back to the servo talk.....I've read on other threads and heard from people the issues with the Savox's....I ordered HK MG929's with my slick,obviously they are analog,so now I'm wondering if they will be ok,since there has been so many servo failures the last few days?
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Old May 03, 2012, 05:27 AM
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Servo's fail - it happens and they do so in different ways analogue and digital...

The main problem is 'US' to be honest we don't really know what we are doing and so we slap on what we think is right...

Remember if you had a real plane.....you wouldn't be doing a high speed blender - or an inverted upline to pop top...planes have limitations and so do the control surfaces and we are working Servo's to the absolute maximum of their operation....

My elevator with the 5065 with 70 degrees seems to be ok - (don't want to jinx anything) - it was when pushing the elevator to nr 90 degrees that the issue arose...I got lucky as the method I used relied on me holding the servo at full travel using my tx with the sick forced down...whilst I fitted a new ball joint assembly...

I doubt anyone here on this forum has calculated the volume and mass of air - the speed that your plane is travelling through it and the deflection and resistance and worked out what kind of force is involved......so we are guessing with what servo to use with no facts...

Hence why some people have problems others don't and the silly wars that appear on these forums on such matters...the simple fact is they will all do the same thing - it depends if you have a servo where your'e flying style - your planes speed and the throw of control surface has resulted in the servo failing because you exceeded its torque and load abilities....not the other way round...

I am pretty sure now over 90% of servo failure is our fault and not the manufacturer...

But we are not given specific application notes...to learn when we are approaching the ends of the envelope of operation....
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Old May 03, 2012, 05:44 AM
how'd I do that....oh
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Thanx space.but now I'm even more worried I'm aiming for about 70* deflection on elevator.though I'll be able to get more if need be(well on the hinge)so I'm just a little worried.touch wood I've only ever stripped servo's on crashes,never in flight,but I'm just wondering,I'm starting to get more aggressive in my flying and know that my servo's in my AMR are really working hard,I would rather toast the slick due to servo failure,over my AMR,but I'd prefer to not toast the slick either.I think it's a really cool plane,and will up my skills(Well I hope)
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Old May 03, 2012, 05:55 AM
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yeah we are fighting weight and size of holes we can use...etc or the obvious thing would be to slap in 5kg torque servo's

It seems the 2kg servo is capable of operating the control surfaces in most instances...the upping to 6V gives you 2.2kg on the servo which possibly has meant it makes it safer - but not absolute...as Losi has found....he has gone for something giving over 3kg with no problems - however those servo's are heavier and bigger...and will drain more current so has got a better BEC operating these...

A lot of info will come out the woodwork...with people feeding back their observations
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Old May 03, 2012, 06:13 AM
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chop stiX's Avatar
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So ultimately your saying it would be better fitting an external BEC?I'm going to use a Plusg 60A ESC though?
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Old May 03, 2012, 06:28 AM
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Originally Posted by chop stiX View Post
So ultimately your saying it would be better fitting an external BEC?I'm going to use a Plusg 60A ESC though?
No - what am saying is understand what you are trying to achieve and make sure your equipment is up to it....

I think there will be a change to 6V 5A BEC's in the future as the market undsertands the requirements and the increase in 3D flying....

I am using a 5V 3A which seems fine....however if I need to go to bigger digitals - I may need to look at this....

Equally the move to 6V with the EF guys suggest that they are aware of the limitations of 5V circuitry and have the 6V airboss....which increases torque on the servo's

The main thing is test your setup well and see if it can perform what you expect before putting it in the air
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Old May 03, 2012, 06:59 AM
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Ok Thanx Space.I understand better now what u mean.If I remember correctly the Plush 60A has a 3A internal BEC,so that's 5V if I'm correct?That should be fine on those MG929's.I;m in no way a Wargo or Losi,so they should be fine.Was just getting abit worried there for a second
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Old May 03, 2012, 07:51 AM
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Originally Posted by chop stiX View Post
Ok Thanx Space.I understand better now what u mean.If I remember correctly the Plush 60A has a 3A internal BEC,so that's 5V if I'm correct?That should be fine on those MG929's.I;m in no way a Wargo or Losi,so they should be fine.Was just getting abit worried there for a second
The Plush ESC's are very good but have worked better with the Easymatch Series for me. The g15,g25,g32,etc. I have had some trouble with the Plush ESC's with the KDA and SK3 motors when using bigger props, ie. the motor screeches and stalls as the ESC timing quickly exceeds the motor ability. The Turningy Trust ESC's do not seem to have this problem, at least when I have used them. I have a Trust ESC on my 51 Slick and my 55 Edge. They are also 5.5v for the servos. BUT the plush has a quicker throttle response, ........if the motor can handle it for the given prop. And yes I have tried all the timing settings on my Plush ESC's, it didn't eliminate the screech/stall for larger props.
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Old May 03, 2012, 08:09 AM
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http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dProduct=14740
this is the motor I'm planning on using with a 14x6 prop on 6s
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Old May 03, 2012, 09:57 AM
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Originally Posted by chop stiX View Post
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dProduct=14740
this is the motor I'm planning on using with a 14x6 prop on 6s
Do you pretend to use that combo in a HK SLICK ?
Dont think plane will not suffer from structural fatigue , with obvious results.
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Old May 03, 2012, 10:05 AM
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United States, MN, Minneapolis
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I've had a canopy come off a 3DHS plane once. And an e-flite. Never an extreme flight. But I'm sure eventually it will happen to extreme flight too. Chris is just being silly.
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Old May 03, 2012, 10:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chop stiX View Post
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dProduct=14740
this is the motor I'm planning on using with a 14x6 prop on 6s
I think that looks ok, just may be a bit long due to using a collet adapter rather than a bolt on prop adapter. 480kv on 6s gives the same RPM as 720kv on 4s, so that's just about perfect for a 14" or maybe 15" prop.

You will need to keep the battery weight down, maybe two 1500 - 1800mAh 3s packs in series. I'll be very interested to hear how it works out.

Steve
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