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Old Apr 14, 2012, 01:12 PM
3D Wannabe
NJSwede's Avatar
United States, NJ, Mendham Township
Joined Jul 2011
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Originally Posted by JetPlaneFlyer View Post
So it's not just me then It will iron back down but probably eventually replacing is the only option. The good thing is that Ultracote/oracover is a perfect match (at least for the red blue and white ).
That's my plan to. The tape was just a field repair to keep it from peeling off even more.

Haters, are you paying attention? I think we found and confirmed a quality issue!
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Old Apr 14, 2012, 01:41 PM
3D Wannabe
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United States, NJ, Mendham Township
Joined Jul 2011
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BTW, another thing broke for me. Two of the wooden tabs coming out of the fuse that's supposed to hold the cowl screws cracked. I have to admit it's probably...ahemm... builder error, though. Any ideas how to repair and strengthen? I was thinking of gluing a thin sheet of vinyl on both sides to provide strength and better "bite" for the screws.

(No crash, but I think I had weakened the tabs during the build and then they came loose from the air pressure when I was fooling around with high speed passes yesterday...)
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Old Apr 14, 2012, 01:57 PM
Grumpy old git.. Who me?
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Joined Mar 2006
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A bit of 1/16" plywood on the inside should do the job on the cowl tabs. I've not noticed any weakness with those tabs on my Slick but on any ARF with those tabs it is quite easy to split the wood if you don't pilot drill. CA soaking the wood helps too.
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Old Apr 14, 2012, 02:27 PM
3D Wannabe
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United States, NJ, Mendham Township
Joined Jul 2011
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Originally Posted by JetPlaneFlyer View Post
A bit of 1/16" plywood on the inside should do the job on the cowl tabs. I've not noticed any weakness with those tabs on my Slick but on any ARF with those tabs it is quite easy to split the wood if you don't pilot drill. CA soaking the wood helps too.
Yup. I had broken my 1.5mm drill bit, so I figured I'd just drive them in instead of taking a trip to the hardware store. Ah, the stupid things you do when you just want to get it in the air QUICK....
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Old Apr 14, 2012, 07:08 PM
Just flitting about!!
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Joined Aug 2011
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Originally Posted by JetPlaneFlyer View Post
A bit of 1/16" plywood on the inside should do the job on the cowl tabs. I've not noticed any weakness with those tabs on my Slick but on any ARF with those tabs it is quite easy to split the wood if you don't pilot drill. CA soaking the wood helps too.
+1 to the CA soak.

I've crashed mine twice as you all know, the second one the motor departed from the cowl mid flight and the cowl tabs held up fine. They, like a lot of my timber is CA soaked, much to our friends amazement after this CA soaking I am still alive, not riddled with cancer and not suffering any long term hallucinogenic issues!!!
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Old Apr 14, 2012, 07:23 PM
Sippin the Koolaid!
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United States, NC, Hertford
Joined Oct 2007
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Got a flight on the slick today. It was blowing 25 to 35mph out (very gusty) Still had fun though. I need to measure the amp draw on that motor(sunnysky 2820 800kv) as it killed the Nano 2650 in less than 5 minutes and swelled them up. Where I flew just as hard on the AJ today with the motrolfly 3615 750kv (and the AJ is heavier and puts out much more power to the prop) and got 5 minutes out of it and the batteries were bearly warm. I think the sunnysky motor isn't up to the task of pushing the slick around effeciently. Got to see what I can do about getting a motor in there thats more up to the task
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Old Apr 14, 2012, 11:12 PM
Currently flyin Crack Yak
United States, AZ, Gilbert
Joined Jul 2006
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I customized my slick today.. now you can tell the difference between 3DHS AJ Slick and the HK slick.. LOL
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Old Apr 14, 2012, 11:27 PM
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United States, NV, Las Vegas
Joined Nov 2010
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Originally Posted by ryanotown22 View Post
I customized my slick today.. now you can tell the difference between 3DHS AJ Slick and the HK slick.. LOL
I agree. The new and improved, HK "SUCK"
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Old Apr 14, 2012, 11:36 PM
Currently flyin Crack Yak
United States, AZ, Gilbert
Joined Jul 2006
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Originally Posted by -= GYRO =- View Post
I agree. The new and improved, HK "SUCK"
I knew you would like that one hahaha
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Old Apr 15, 2012, 01:05 AM
Santi
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United States, MO, Clayton
Joined Nov 2003
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Originally Posted by ryanotown22 View Post
I customized my slick today.. now you can tell the difference between 3DHS AJ Slick and the HK slick.. LOL
Yuck, blue and black is quite the fashion faux pas!
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Old Apr 15, 2012, 01:50 AM
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Originally Posted by ryanotown22 View Post
I customized my slick today.. now you can tell the difference between 3DHS AJ Slick and the HK slick.. LOL
I thought the title of this thread is "no bashing"
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Old Apr 15, 2012, 04:32 AM
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Joined Feb 2011
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Mine`s called "Lick" :P

But does anyone know of long servohorns that fit the TGY-2216MG servo`s ?
I made some, but even they arent long enough for max throw, so i`m thinking of buying new.
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Old Apr 15, 2012, 05:36 AM
Grumpy old git.. Who me?
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Originally Posted by Ola. View Post
But does anyone know of long servohorns that fit the TGY-2216MG servo`s ?
Just make your own. get a piece of carbon or G10 laminate sheet (ebay sell it) and cut your own. Either 1mm or 1.5mm does the job. 1mm can be cut with a strong pair of kitchen scissors which saves some time.
You CA the extension over top of the standard arm and drill a couple of holes through spare holes in the servo arm and pop in a couple of tiny screws.

See photo attached.
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Old Apr 15, 2012, 06:24 AM
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Burke, VA
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Originally Posted by NJSwede View Post
Yup. I had broken my 1.5mm drill bit, so I figured I'd just drive them in instead of taking a trip to the hardware store. Ah, the stupid things you do when you just want to get it in the air QUICK....
You could also use the sharp tip of an exacto knife as a drill bit by just twisting the knife around, works quite well.
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Old Apr 15, 2012, 07:10 AM
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Australia, QLD, Ipswich
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Originally Posted by jetinteriorguy View Post
You could also use the sharp tip of an exacto knife as a drill bit by just twisting the knife around, works quite well.
Small flat blad jewellers screwdriver works great too.
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