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Old Dec 16, 2012, 06:04 PM
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Canton, Michigan USA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Galand View Post
Bad crash yesterday. Something slammed into the front of the Guardian and broke loose the USB connector from the board.
Cut open the celluloid to have a look at how this could be fixed.
It looks like a combination of two crimp and maybe two solder points.
Beyond my capabilities. What a poor setup!
Is this a lost cause?
What slammed into the Guardian and ripped the USB connector from the board? Whatever it was you can't expect a lighweight electronic board to withstand forces that can rip the USB from the board. Geeze.
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Old Dec 16, 2012, 06:35 PM
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Joined Apr 2011
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creep/drift. vibration can be a cause of dirft in heli gyros.
balance, tuneing and vibe free mounting of the gyros are the keys.
but l am a 95% heli man 5% plane (fpv will change that soon, im excited).

do foam planes transmit vibes well?
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Old Dec 16, 2012, 07:48 PM
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Originally Posted by ZDAD View Post
I now have two quotes printed out above my desk

"We make a living with what we get. We make a life with what we give."
Churchill
“I'm not confused, but if you feel that this is not a possibility, then disregard it as being a possibility”
Mike m_beeson RCGroups
Mike is it OK to quote you?
Keith
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Old Dec 16, 2012, 07:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Prof100 View Post
What slammed into the Guardian and ripped the USB connector from the board? Whatever it was you can't expect a lighweight electronic board to withstand forces that can rip the USB from the board. Geeze.
Pull out from dive. Wings folded. Nosed in from 100 feet. You may not want to look!
I guess it's a write-off, like the plane.
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Old Dec 16, 2012, 07:57 PM
Rick
United States, CA, Santa Clara
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Originally Posted by Galand View Post
Pull out from dive. Wings folded. Nosed in from 100 feet. You may not want to look!
I guess it's a write-off, like the plane.
Does it still work? You can live without the USB connection in many installations.
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Old Dec 16, 2012, 08:00 PM
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Vernon, BC, Canada
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Originally Posted by Galand View Post
Pull out from dive. Wings folded. Nosed in from 100 feet. You may not want to look!
I guess it's a write-off, like the plane.
It was behind the heavy stuff where it should be. BUT nothing will save you from 100ft straight in with folded wings.
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Old Dec 16, 2012, 08:11 PM
Rick
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I made a short video of the other problem I'm seeing in a different installation. The problem is that in the first few seconds after power up, it seems to sense some serious trim that is not present. This effect diminishes to zero over perhaps 10 seconds. There is no creep in this installation.

Other than being annoying, the only practical effect of this problem is that in order to execute a reset of level and trims it is necessary to wait as close as possible to the end of the 15 sec window.

Anyone else see anything like this? (The only thing I touched on the transmitter was the mode switch)

Glitches (2 min 38 sec)
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Old Dec 16, 2012, 08:12 PM
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Originally Posted by choochoo22 View Post
Does it still work? You can live without the USB connection in many installations.
It could be that it still works, I'll have to find out on the successor model. I liked the use of the USB to set/reset the trims since this model has/had a 6 channel Rx where I used Ch 5 for flaps and CH6 for Guardian GAIN (and on/off). No channel left for MODE switch to use the 15 sec window.
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Old Dec 16, 2012, 08:20 PM
Rick
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Originally Posted by Galand View Post
It could be that it still works, I'll have to find out on the successor model. I liked the use of the USB to set/reset the trims since this model has/had a 6 channel Rx where I used Ch 5 for flaps and CH6 for Guardian GAIN (and on/off). No channel left for MODE switch to use the 15 sec window.
Having to choose, I would pick mode over gain. Once a usable gain is established it can be set on the pots without a need for change in many models. Also, you could set it up for gain until you get the gain right, then use the channel for mode. Of course if you only use one mode, your way works too.
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Old Dec 16, 2012, 08:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Galand View Post
Pull out from dive. Wings folded. Nosed in from 100 feet. You may not want to look!
I guess it's a write-off, like the plane.
Actually, the fuselage is repairable with some hot water and patience. I have done worse and rebuilt to fly again.
BEFORE



AFTER
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Old Dec 16, 2012, 08:37 PM
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Berkley, MI
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Galand,
can we see a picture of the usb recepticle and the area of the board it was on.

I have experience in soldering smd components, but these days I seem to have more and more difficulties focusing on tiny objects. If it's repairable, I'd be glad to try.
Just keep in mind that I don't have any test equipment to verify if your unit is 100% flyable after that damaging crash. Only Eagletree can provide you a guarantee if you send it to them for a repair and a thorough checkup.
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Last edited by Silverexpress; Dec 16, 2012 at 09:11 PM.
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Old Dec 16, 2012, 09:09 PM
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Berkley, MI
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Quote:
Originally Posted by choochoo22 View Post
I made a short video of the other problem I'm seeing in a different installation. The problem is that in the first few seconds after power up, it seems to sense some serious trim that is not present. This effect diminishes to zero over perhaps 10 seconds. There is no creep in this installation.

Other than being annoying, the only practical effect of this problem is that in order to execute a reset of level and trims it is necessary to wait as close as possible to the end of the 15 sec window.

Anyone else see anything like this? (The only thing I touched on the transmitter was the mode switch)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UN9Wc...ature=youtu.be
Curious to know what version of firmware is in the unit in the video. Also what settings do you have enabled? Is it 3D HH or 3D rate...etc....

You can save your settings and send it to Eagletree for analysis to see if anything is truly wrong.

Try moving your sticks in place of using the mode switch to reset the control surfaces. Also, you were moving the mode switch within the 15 second window - this would reset your level and trims in the Guardian - do you do this for every flight? My only concern would be if your airplane is on uneven ground or in combination with the parked airframe - is placed beyond the 25 degree window - 2D and 3D may present surprises or not work at all. Along these lines, with the model the way it is in the video is the Guardian beyond the 25 degrees already?

Excerpt from the manual:

"Reset Level Flight and Trims: 1 Toggle (up-down if the switch is presently down, or down-up if presently up)
After changing the trims on your controller or mounting orientation, you must let the Guardian know about this change so it can best control your
airplane. Without this information, 3D Heading Lock will not work and stabilization performance will be degraded.
To update the trim and level flight information for your controller in the Guardian, quickly toggle the Mode Switch back and forth once within the first
15 seconds after power-on. You will know that the level flight orientation and trims have been reset when the servos both twitch once and then
immediately return to normal movement.

If no twitch occurs when executing Reset Level Flight and Trims, it can either be because the switch gesture was not done quickly enough or within the
first 15 seconds following boot. Alternatively, if the Guardian is mounted too far off of level flight (greater than 25 degrees in either Pitch or Roll), the
Reset Level Flight and Trims will fail, presenting no servo twitch.


Reset Trims Only: 2 Toggles (up-down-up-down if the switch is presently down, or down-up-down-up if presently up)
Use this gesture to reset your trims without needing to also reset your level flight orientation.
To quickly update the trims of your plane in the Guardian, quickly toggle the Mode Switch back and forth two times within the first 15 seconds
following power-on. (Example: up-down- up-down) You will know that the trims have been reset when the servos both slowly twitch twice and then
immediately return to normal movement.
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Last edited by Silverexpress; Dec 16, 2012 at 10:37 PM.
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Old Dec 16, 2012, 10:03 PM
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Long Island, NY
Joined May 2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Silverexpress View Post
Galand,
can we see a picture of the usb recepticle and the area of the board it was on.

I have experience in soldering smd components, but these days I seem to have more and more difficulties focusing on tiny objects. If it's repairable, I'd be glad to try.
Just keep in mind that I don't have any test equipment to verify if your unit is 100% flyable after that damaging crash. Only Eagletree can provide you a guarantee if you send it to them for a repair and a thorough checkup.
My "macro" function is miserable but here you go.
It is definitely beyond my capabilities. The USB seems to have 5 contacts plus ground I guess. The 5 contacts are press-down contacts and the ground seems to be soldered on both sides. There is a lip on each side that fits into a slot on the board and then seems to be bent so it holds fast.
I am not impressed for something that is supposed to be repeatedly inserted and pulled out.
Maybe I should send it back unless you think you can do this.
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Old Dec 16, 2012, 10:11 PM
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[QUOTE=Prof100;23545736]Actually, the fuselage is repairable with some hot water and patience. I have done worse and rebuilt to fly again.

Yeah, I've boiled my SkySurfers several times and it works. I am already halfway through building another one. Maybe rebuild it later into one for my grandsons to crash? Thanks for the encouragement.
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Old Dec 16, 2012, 10:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by choochoo22 View Post
Having to choose, I would pick mode over gain. Once a usable gain is established it can be set on the pots without a need for change in many models. Also, you could set it up for gain until you get the gain right, then use the channel for mode. Of course if you only use one mode, your way works too.
Since I use it for training, it is set to 2D as default and it allows me to gradually reduce the "training wheels" for the student. All the way to OFF.
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