In 2d mode with 'Auto Turn Cordination' set to OFF, and 2D heading ON, if I yaw the plane and/or roll it there is no deflection of the rudder. Only Ailerons move. Is this correct?

Originally Posted by simmons1a

40%. I have set gear channel with mix1 on my dx6i so that I effectively have a three position setting available on for the gain input on the Guardian

Hmmm, my DX6i doesn't have 3 position switch. Does yours?

How to use two different two way switches to achive 2D / Off / 3D has been posted several times,problem is non of the How To's in this Thread are originazed.

I tried to place Trans. programing here but got a late start and no help to date.

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...postcount=1651

Originally Posted by everydayflyer

How to use two different two way switches to achive 2D / Off / 3D has been posted several times,problem is non of the How To's in this Thread are originazed.

I tried to place Trans. programing here but got a late start and no help to date.

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...postcount=1651

Charles,

Thanks, but the DX6i I use with one plane has mixes 2D-3D and off using the two position flap switch and an AUX switch for OFF. The DX7 and a AR500 required some creative programming to map the gear channel to the 3 position flap switch. I posted that earlier. My Aux 2 switch on my DX7 has been tasked to a safety switch or throttle kill because those APC props are really sharp. Each model uses the Aux 2 as a safety switch to disarm the motor until getting ready to fly. The DX6i is unique in that a throttle kill or safety is all but impossible to setup. I even tried adding a new switch to the radio and soldered it into the throttle kill button. It didn't work and I had to cut the wires to the switch. Anyway, the point I am trying to make is I like to keep things consistent from plane to plane on each radio I use.

MASTER GAIN implementation
I am missing a proportional knob of slider for remote master gain setting. Neither the DX6i or DX7 have any proportional switches. I know I can probably task another two position switch to have max gain and maybe 50% but with each radio - receiver - plane setup the task starts to result in a unique setup based on each plane's configuration. I really don't want to have a situation where on plane "A" the gear switch is used for master gain and on another (plane "B') the gear switch is used for retracts. Besides, adjusting gain while flying appears to me to be done only occasionally. Once the pots are set on the Guardian for plane stabilization I can't see the need for increasing or decreasing the gain except for the initial dialing in of the Guardian to suit a plane's unique configuration. Or if the capabiity somehow changed due to temperature or wear and tear on the mechanicals it might require less gain. If that happens I can turn the Guardian off, land the plane and adjust the pots. Besides, a slider or a knob can get bumped. So, I don't know if remote master gain is really necessary. It seems like a good idea but it's one more thing to go wrong.

Bill

Originally Posted by simmons1a

In 2d mode with 'Auto Turn Cordination' set to OFF, and 2D heading ON, if I yaw the plane and/or roll it there is no deflection of the rudder. Only Ailerons move. Is this correct?

That is what mine does in 2D also, yaw movement is counter-acted by aileron and very slight rudder movement........seems to fly fine though

Originally Posted by Tatonka

That is what mine does in 2D also, yaw movement is counter-acted by aileron and very slight rudder movement........seems to fly fine though

OK. Seems the same, if I whack the gain up to full, I get small rudder deflections in 2D mode. Again, seems to work fine, so best leave alone!

Sydney has been experiencing some really wild wild weather the last 2 days with very strong winds, the kind that rip roofs of houses, damage structures etc.

So, really wanting to fly and with a weather forecast that said the winds would die down on Saturday afternoon to around 25kph I grabbed my Align Trex 500 heli and my E-Flight Apprentice trainer with Guardian installed and headed out the HMAS club field at Vinyard.
(they lied, the winds actually got no better).

Arrived to find only 5 guys sitting around talking and no flying because of the strong winds though Leon did do a short flight with big (read heavy) Trex 700 electric heli.

I just knew this was going to be the ultimate Guardian test day.

Go the Apprentice out of the car and struggled to fit the main wing with the gusting wings and fit a 3300 battery, quick control check and that switches on my DX7s were set right pre-flight.

Fight to carry the a/c to the flight line, fortunately the wind was nearly straight down the main strip. Take off run was probably less than 1 metre (a yard) with 75% power applied and Guardian in 2D mode, climb away, wings rock quite violently but it's flying, get to maybe 50' and select 3D mode.

While the a/c is still being rocked and thrown around the sky it is actually flyable, and actually fun in a kind of perverted way,

Spend the next 25 minutes making lots of circuits, hairy landings. On probably 5 landing as the a/c came to rest wind gusts got under one wing or another and flipped the a/c on it's back because I could get to it to hold it down, that's the kind of day it was.

I am so impressed with how well the Guardian works in such horrific conditions, its is nothing short of amazing and while the guys thought I was nuts to attempt to fly a big high wing foamy in such conditions and seemed sure I would be taking it home in pieces to rebuild the aircraft survived the day, I had the biggest grin on my face and could not help but recommend the device. My only regret is that there is no video to show how rough it was.

I have read this Forum's responses to the micro USB type B cable problems, but I still am having a problem trying to insert this type cable into the Guardian unit.

I have 2 micro USB type B that work in my phone and e-reader. Neither will plug into the Guardian unit.

So,I went to Best Buy and bought another one. This also will not plug into the Guardian unit.

Looking closely into the USB receptacle of the Guardian unit, I can see a little tab at the lower right hand corner projecting up from the bottom of the receptacle case that appears to stop the external USB cable from entering past this projection to be able to engage the electrical tab of the Guardian USB receptacle.

Is this little tab supposed to be there? Is there a cable that has a notch in it to allow the plug to fully enter and engage the inner receptacle electrical connection? Is this interfering tab a manufacturing/assembly error and my unit has to be returned for a proper functioning USB receptacle assembly?

Thank you,

William

no, somethings wrong. can it be pressed down or trimmed out? the picture is so blurry big i can't tell if it's something folded from the metal outer part or a piece of solder or something like that

The eagletree website lists the cable as a micro "B" cable. Could yours be different? I don't think my "B" micro would fit but mine won't arrive till friday to try. There is a good picture of it on the HobbyKing site and I don't see the tab in that picture. I can see a small piece of metal but it looks like it gives tension to the micro B to hold it in place when inserted. Yours looks different.

my doesn't have the tab and I'm using the micro USB from my cellphone it may be a small manufacturing defect

I have four Guardians and they all look like the picture I attached below. I am using a micro USB that works with my HTC Thunderbolt Android and my wife's Kindle fire.

his doesn't look like one of them tabs to teh side is lifted up

These are the same cables as a htc phone or a dji naza/wookong

Sorry about the blurry image. Took a couple more.

Picture 1 shows left inner side of the USB receptacle and there is no interference (tab) to prevent the USB cable to be inserted.

Picture 2 shows an interference (tab) that prevents the USB cable to be inserted fully. Looking a little closer to the outer area at the right side of the receptacle appears to be a blob of some sort that lines up with the interfering item immediately inside the receptacle. Does not look like solder, but may be as there are 2 open slots (on each side of the receptacle) and the right side exterior looks like a solder blob at the attachment to the pc board.

Does this show up better?

Left click on these pictures to enlarge them for better viewing.

Originally Posted by gritty

Sorry about the blurry image. Took a couple more.

Picture 1 shows left inner side of the USB receptacle and there is no interference (tab) to prevent the USB cable to be inserted.

Picture 2 shows an interference (tab) that prevents the USB cable to be inserted fully. Looking a little closer to the outer area at the right side of the receptacle appears to be a blob of some sort that lines up with the interfering item immediately inside the receptacle. Does not look like solder, but may be as there are 2 open slots (on each side of the receptacle) and the right side exterior looks like a solder blob at the attachment to the pc board.

Does this show up better?

Left click on these pictures to enlarge them for better viewing.

I did enlarge them. Can you get in there with small jewelers screwdriver and break that little honker loose? If not, send it back to Eagletree.