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Old Feb 20, 2012, 08:02 AM
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United States, FL, Leesburg
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I use Beacon Fabric-Tac on FFF for my foamies. Put on a small bead, press to pieces together, pull apart and let dry for a couple of seconds and then you have contact cement. Very light weight about and ounce for a build. When it gets thick add acetone to thin.
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Old Feb 21, 2012, 02:53 AM
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I've mixed gorilla glue with microballoons before and it controls the foaming(more even) and lightens it. The build I'm working on now, I had done that to make a wing saddle for an undercambered wing(filled the gap).

Today I needed to cut out some of that saddle and that gorilla glue and balloons mix was like concrete. It was bonded to fiberglass and I couldnt budge it with a no. 11 so I resorted to using a flathead screwdriver to chip it away. Good thing the fiberglass had to go too because the concrete mix never totally separated, the bond was that complete. I just needed to remove enough so I could cut the glass away which was fragile in comparison.
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Old Feb 21, 2012, 01:38 PM
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@HELModels: I tried the GG w/ microballoons today and it was great! Definitely helped reduce foaming--that's a huge benefit. I'll be doing that from now on! Thanks for the tip.
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Old Feb 21, 2012, 09:48 PM
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Keep in mind that GG requires some moisture to cure correctly. You'll want to keep a plant mister handy. For the wing joint you'd apply GG to the one side and lightly mist the other. Just fog it, no drips or obvious buildup. THEN jam the halves together and align them.

THis would not play well with the hot glue you're considering for tacking them. But hey, I never came by to make things easy.....

Really I don't see the point in using two glues anyway in the manner you're intending. The squeeze out from one into the other will just confuse things. Either go with hot glue and no GG and misting or go with GG and misting and tape the joint while it cures to hold it together. But consider which is going to be the better option for the EPP's cell like makeup. GG is really good when used as a wood glue where the cells of the wood are small, rigid and there's stuff inside other than air. Hot glue is bulky and squeezes into air pockets to fill and coat them and doesn't shrink or suffer from thick layers. It may well be that for EPP that the hot glue is better than the GG. After all, you only need to use a joint that is stronger than the surrounding material. Anything more than that is just wasted resources and added weight.
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Old Feb 21, 2012, 10:16 PM
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Canada, ON, Kingston
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I've only just started using Gorilla Glue, but haven't had any of the problems folks describe with excess foaming. I make sure I scrape the GG into a really thin film, apply some moisture to the mating surface (often just a wet finger wiped on it), clamp it while it dries and Bob's your uncle. I've had very little excess glue squeeze out, and when it does, it's easy to slice off with a sharp blade. All the joints seem tougher than the surrounding balsa or Depron.

Steve
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Old Feb 21, 2012, 10:16 PM
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Good tip about the microshperes and the PU glue!

It's good to have an array of various glues in the shed to choose from. They all have their more suitable application and limitations. Use them and gain some experience.
I agree with Bruce re. using 2 glues on the one surface. Not a good idea I suspect!

Jim.
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Old Feb 26, 2012, 12:16 PM
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Hot glue works okay in thin beads IF you heat up the parts to be bonded with a heat gun just before applying the thin bead of hot glue so it penetrates and bonds correctly. There is usually a better option for most glue jobs if you can be patient and let the glue set up.
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Old Feb 26, 2012, 02:04 PM
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I dont know who said not to use GG for building airplanes but GG is my go to glue for building foamies.

if you want to control the foaming action cover the glue joint with masking tape and use little to no water activation.

Beacons foam tac is another good foam glue.
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Old Feb 26, 2012, 02:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jimbello View Post
Good tip about the microshperes and the PU glue!

It's good to have an array of various glues in the shed to choose from. They all have their more suitable application and limitations. Use them and gain some experience.
I agree with Bruce re. using 2 glues on the one surface. Not a good idea I suspect!

Jim.
Yea, I like that tip too. I've also used GG to lay up fiberglass with good consistent results, no uncontrolled foaming or voids. I'll post a pic of it, is my current build.

Here's a shot of an early experiment
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Old Feb 27, 2012, 11:07 AM
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"I dont know who said not to use GG for building airplanes"

Well, there are airplanes; and then there are foamies:-))))))))))))))))))

Les
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Old Feb 28, 2012, 08:59 AM
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Thanks for the tip about using a heat gun to pre-heat the surface. Awesome. I imagine you could also use the heat gun after the glue is applied too, if you *really* wanted it to have time to flow. I love this stuff....

I have experimented with using gorilla glue as a space filling glue and it didnt seem as effective. I mean large spaces (i.e. 2 cm x 2 cm). It didnt seem to harden up fully--it's still quite spongy and doesnt seem very strong.

RogueTitan: Do you find that the GG bonds to the masking tape? I've never tried masking. I've used scotch tape and it often will stick to that, making removal kind of a pain in the neck.
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Old Feb 28, 2012, 11:30 AM
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United Kingdom, Oxford
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Quote:
Originally Posted by doughpat View Post
...Is Latex glue also PVA?...
doughplat,

Latex glue is not PVA, it's simply latex rubber in a solvent that smells like ammonia, probably a solution of ammonia in water.

A.
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Old Feb 28, 2012, 03:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by doughpat View Post
....I have experimented with using gorilla glue as a space filling glue and it didnt seem as effective. I mean large spaces (i.e. 2 cm x 2 cm)......
It is NEVER a good practice to use any glue as a space filler.

Even on very pourous or cell like materials such as EPP joints should be fitted well before any glue is epected to join anything. And certainly anything like a 2x2cm space is a perfect cadidate to have a filler piece made up of the same material as the surrounding structure and glue that into the gap. Care taken to make the joint lines as fine as possible will result in both less weight being added and in the filler being better able to carry any structural loads.

Hell, even a good drywaller would not fill a 2cm gap with mud. They'd stick something in there first to bridge the gap. And that's not just based on cheapness. The time spent up front to fill a gap like that will pay itself back many times over by not watching the mud shrink into the gap. Can we do any less?
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