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Old Feb 15, 2012, 02:02 PM
Simple is the best
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Looks nice, very cool.
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Old Feb 15, 2012, 05:28 PM
An ordinary sort of incredible
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United States, TN, Knoxville
Joined Dec 2004
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jarel design View Post
TRhanks for the kind word guys!

Please... you're not interrupting... I'm hoping this will turn into something like my vacuum bagging thread in the slope forum with others chiming in on sizes they are going scale this design (and my upcoming designs although doubbtful for at least a couple of months). Looking forward to people sharing thier build experince here to share with others...

This is all I'm planning to post until after coming back from my upcoming honeymoon... Leaving March 6th, coming back March 17th...

Opus, please do share...!

Curious as to what frames people are wanting to adapt these designs to... I also have some great ideas for boom treatments... and... if I have enugh time and others are willing to give me layouts for their boom tip motors and mounts, I'd be happy to design and layout plans for nacelles... My other designs (including this one) as kits will include moldings to cover (yet cool) the motors...

Richard
This is my Tricopter. More pics on my blog. (click my avatar)





It is quite a bit bigger than yours. The center "disk" is about 6" in diameter. My arms are 10" center to motor shafts. I am scaling it up with Corel Draw. I will post the scaled files with credit to you.
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Old Feb 16, 2012, 07:30 PM
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Southern Oregon
Joined Apr 2004
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Just got the Tri!

(Totally overloaded with work right now, deadline for a prototype due the day before we leave to get married!)

I have to be honest and share that I was attracted to Tri-copters more than quads when it came to body designs... Just so many options! Having a business, I needed to look at "popularity" and it seems like there were more quads than trikes (Tri's? or Trikes?)) any way... I can TOTALLY see you adapting the body to your Tricopter... curious (and I don't know that much about the mechanics) about mounting the tail rotor up-side-down so that the motor is just under the tail feathers? The tail would hide the motor wonderfully and give it more of an "Avatar" "feel" ...

Please share some photos as you adapt this body... If you're interested (when you get there) if you post some photos of the motors and end boom mounts I'd love to lay out some nacelle covers... A great idea for covering the booms and giving it a more sci-fi look is to use accordion wire covers... The kind you use to gather all your loose wires coming out of the back of your computer or stereo etc,,, it comes split so you just slip it on over the boom, it's super light and give the model a more "industrial" (something's going on under the hood) feel...

Can't wait to see what you come up with!

Best,
Richard
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Old Feb 17, 2012, 11:33 PM
An ordinary sort of incredible
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United States, TN, Knoxville
Joined Dec 2004
931 Posts
Here is what I have so far. This is my first attempt at working with foam. I love it. Specially since I took the advice of a few other people and got the foam core board from Dollar Tree. "Everything is a Dollar" 20x30inch foam core board for $1.00. Cant beat it. Soak it in alcohol for about a min and the paper comes right off. It is 5mm thick but since I scaled it up by about 250% over your original it worked out well.

I am learning as I go. I really like it and I will most definitely be using it again. I have the model mostly finished in roughing it out. Now I have to learn how to fill gaps and then prime and paint. I will not be adding all the armament since I will most likely be crashing. There will be less to break off. I had to modify the tail because it didn't work with the tricopter tail, the blade would hit, big time.

My Scaled up version there have been some changes too.









The Aquafina bottle is there in the last pic for scale.
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Old Feb 18, 2012, 03:53 AM
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United States, NM, Las Cruces
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Wow! I may have to try this! Impressive!
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Old Feb 18, 2012, 08:13 AM
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Southern Oregon
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WOW!

Great job! and SO FAST!!!!!

an idea for non-breakable "guns": Black rubber tubing/fuel line... I've used it before on models and even just for proetection from hangar rash/transport into and out of cars... if they get caught on anything or crunched, nothing happens!

Did I share with you, the idea for boom covering? I don't know what it's called, but a lightweight accordian, flexible tube that is used to collect electrical wires to make them neat... It's spit along it's length so you can just cut length and slip it over the boom... a little silver "dry brush" etchnique and it looks totally sci-fi/military and scales up the booms on your copter to look more true to life of what a "real" craft would look like...

Can't wait to see more!

So glad someone is taking me up on this and using these plans... (Also glad to see that you've adapted this to fit your tri! ) =D

Best,
Richard
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Old Feb 18, 2012, 08:16 AM
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Southern Oregon
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Also glad you had such a great experince with foam!

I still remember my first time... kind of like the gary larson cartoon (The Far Side) where he depicts God creating the animals and he's working on snakes... rolling clay between his hands like a kid in kindergarten ... "Wow! THese are easy! I think I'll make a LOT of these!"
LOLOLOL!!!!

And thanks for the tip on the alcohol removing the paper! Never knew that! When the paper is removed, is the surface smooth? or like an end cut revealing all the tiny bubbles?

Richard
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Old Feb 18, 2012, 03:32 PM
An ordinary sort of incredible
mr.incredible's Avatar
United States, TN, Knoxville
Joined Dec 2004
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jarel design View Post
Also glad you had such a great experince with foam!

I still remember my first time... kind of like the gary larson cartoon (The Far Side) where he depicts God creating the animals and he's working on snakes... rolling clay between his hands like a kid in kindergarten ... "Wow! THese are easy! I think I'll make a LOT of these!"
LOLOLOL!!!!

And thanks for the tip on the alcohol removing the paper! Never knew that! When the paper is removed, is the surface smooth? or like an end cut revealing all the tiny bubbles?

Richard
The foam is very smooth and clean like buying the foam from the LHS. With the alcohol all the glue comes off too, absolutely no work. The grainy spots on mine are from sanding or tape removal.

Speaking of which what do you use for gap fill and primer? I am trying Gorilla Glue 2X, White. It is a polyurethane foam. I tried wetting but it foams too much. Now I'm trying just air drying. The glue will still foam but it is a much denser foam. Normal primer would probably melt the foam. I know Lowes Depot has a latex primer that is safe on foam. Would that work?
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Old Feb 20, 2012, 11:23 AM
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Albuquerque, NM
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I'm working on the original size one for an MQX. My wife is big into paper crafts, and she has this tape roller thing full of low tack adhesive dots. I cut out the paper patterns, and rolled this stuff along the edges. Pressed it down on the foam, and cut out the parts with an x acto. The paper patterns stayed put when necessary, and peeled almost completely clean. What little adheisive remained was easily removed by some light rubbing with a finger. My son is starting to work on one two, I'll get some pictures of the stuff during his build.
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Old Feb 20, 2012, 12:16 PM
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United States, CO, Gilcrest
Joined Feb 2009
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Richard, beautiful work as always.
Opus, try thinned out Elmers glue for a primer on that foam.
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Old Feb 20, 2012, 12:52 PM
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United States, NM, Las Cruces
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I've never had good luck painting glue- maybe the Elmers will work if you use craft paint. Would a very light sanding with fine grain prep the surface for paint?
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Old Feb 20, 2012, 01:17 PM
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Southern Oregon
Joined Apr 2004
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THis is so exciting to hear you guys building this body! =D

Again, for the paper to faom transfer... (I've been building prototypes for over 20 years and have used this method over and over again...) Try spraying a light coat of 3M77 (doesn't have to be super thin,,) transfer to the foam, cut with paper on it, then wipe down the paper with rubber cement thinner... It soaks through the paper, releasing the adhesive and will not atttack the foam...

Curious to learn more about foam painting techniques... that one I have litte experience with and not happy with what I have produced... I've heard people using lightweight spackle?

Can't wait to see some PHOTOS! a picture is worth a thousand words! LOL!

Until next time,
Richard

PS: THanks for the compiments... I just totally love what I do!
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Old Feb 20, 2012, 07:58 PM
Always, against the wind
Thetis's Avatar
United States, IL
Joined Oct 2011
956 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by jarel design View Post
THis is so exciting to hear you guys building this body! =D

Again, for the paper to faom transfer... (I've been building prototypes for over 20 years and have used this method over and over again...) Try spraying a light coat of 3M77 (doesn't have to be super thin,,) transfer to the foam, cut with paper on it, then wipe down the paper with rubber cement thinner... It soaks through the paper, releasing the adhesive and will not atttack the foam...

Curious to learn more about foam painting techniques... that one I have litte experience with and not happy with what I have produced... I've heard people using lightweight spackle?

Can't wait to see some PHOTOS! a picture is worth a thousand words! LOL!

Until next time,
Richard

PS: THanks for the compiments... I just totally love what I do!
Richard,
very nice design. I just found this thread. I have PMed you.
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Old Feb 21, 2012, 07:25 AM
An ordinary sort of incredible
mr.incredible's Avatar
United States, TN, Knoxville
Joined Dec 2004
931 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Breezemont View Post
Richard, beautiful work as always.
Opus, try thinned out Elmers glue for a primer on that foam.
I found Rustoleum Fusion Primer. It is designed for plastics and foam. Seems pretty good so far. I will be sanding and recoating today so, we will see how it works.
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Old Feb 21, 2012, 08:10 AM
An ordinary sort of incredible
mr.incredible's Avatar
United States, TN, Knoxville
Joined Dec 2004
931 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by jihlein View Post
I'm working on the original size one for an MQX. My wife is big into paper crafts, and she has this tape roller thing full of low tack adhesive dots. I cut out the paper patterns, and rolled this stuff along the edges. Pressed it down on the foam, and cut out the parts with an x acto. The paper patterns stayed put when necessary, and peeled almost completely clean. What little adheisive remained was easily removed by some light rubbing with a finger. My son is starting to work on one two, I'll get some pictures of the stuff during his build.
My wife is a stamper, greeting cards and such, I tried the glue dots and I don't really like that they don't hold the paper down everywhere. I found the spray adhesive works best. Spray the back of the paper not the foam. It hold the paper in place everywhere and will peel away cleanly.
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