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Old Mar 06, 2012, 12:13 PM
UH-1 Gunship, AH-1G jock 69-71
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Safe paints to use on the Flyzone DR.1?

Maybe I missed this in skimming through the thread, but what types of brush on paints are safe to use on the Flyzone DR.1, especially painting the pilot??
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Old Mar 06, 2012, 01:57 PM
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Pretty much any acrylic basedpaint will work on the foam. Depending on your level of detail for your pilot oil paints can be used on the face as well they just take forever to dry.

Pete
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Old Mar 06, 2012, 03:46 PM
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Dawn patrol, ready to go.
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Old Mar 06, 2012, 05:29 PM
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dawn patrol, ready to go.

nice!!!!.....
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Old Mar 07, 2012, 11:35 AM
UH-1 Gunship, AH-1G jock 69-71
makeitworst's Avatar
So Cal ... Kingdom of Taxes
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Originally Posted by mtflyr View Post
Pretty much any acrylic basedpaint will work on the foam. Depending on your level of detail for your pilot oil paints can be used on the face as well they just take forever to dry.

Pete
I was thinking of using Testors Enamel hobby paints for painting the Pilots bust. I just can't tell from looking at the supplied Pilot, if it's Depron just like the plane, or something else. Thanks to non-existent info in the manual about the material or painting it, I'm just guessing. Anyone tried using Enamel hobby paints on the Pilot?

PS - anyone found a source for cheap replacement props .... just in case?
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Old Mar 07, 2012, 01:07 PM
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Originally Posted by makeitworst View Post
I was thinking of using Testors Enamel hobby paints for painting the Pilots bust. I just can't tell from looking at the supplied Pilot, if it's Depron just like the plane, or something else. Thanks to non-existent info in the manual about the material or painting it, I'm just guessing. Anyone tried using Enamel hobby paints on the Pilot?

PS - anyone found a source for cheap replacement props .... just in case?
I did,they work fine...
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Old Mar 07, 2012, 03:25 PM
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Acrylics my be a better choice for foams some enamels may eat foam that's exposed skinned /sanded such as Depron or blue construction foam.

Humbrol enamel paints are great but I think they do eat some foams.

In the end whatever works for you just test first.

Pete
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Old Mar 08, 2012, 12:37 AM
UH-1 Gunship, AH-1G jock 69-71
makeitworst's Avatar
So Cal ... Kingdom of Taxes
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Micheal's Crafts stores carry an inexpensive line of Acrylics in bottles like the Testors but 1/2 the price. If I use silver and black permanent marker pens for the goggles, and only buy light beige for skin and brown for the skull cap and jacket, I won't feel I've put too much money into this model. (To me it's just a casual toyish model - no aspersions meant)

I do use Spray Enamels, the cheap stuff ($1.99) from Home Depot, on my Aerobatic Depron flats, but I've learned that you have to spray thin layers each time and you get no melting of the Depron. I am concerned that brushing on thicker amounts on the pilot bust might melt to some degree.

@karfrik - assume you brushed on the Testors Enamel thinly?

Question - Anyone found alternate (cheaper) sources for the same or slightly larger LiPO Batts? and Also for the Prop??

Thanks guys.
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Old Mar 08, 2012, 12:56 AM
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Originally Posted by makeitworst View Post
Micheal's Crafts stores carry an inexpensive line of Acrylics in bottles like the Testors but 1/2 the price. If I use silver and black permanent marker pens for the goggles, and only buy light beige for skin and brown for the skull cap and jacket, I won't feel I've put too much money into this model. (To me it's just a casual toyish model - no aspersions meant)

I do use Spray Enamels, the cheap stuff ($1.99) from Home Depot, on my Aerobatic Depron flats, but I've learned that you have to spray thin layers each time and you get no melting of the Depron. I am concerned that brushing on thicker amounts on the pilot bust might melt to some degree.

@karfrik - assume you brushed on the Testors Enamel thinly?

Question - Anyone found alternate (cheaper) sources for the same or slightly larger LiPO Batts? and Also for the Prop??

Thanks guys.
Yes brushed like 2 coats,nothing fancy and most of my remaining testors are like 20+ yrs!!!....you can also mix and match in order to get an specific color shade/tone.My Fokker pics are here, same color scheme as Angelos requiring minimal color changes.I left the red like it came out of the box but added the necessary white in the tail and then the skyblue all under the wings and fuse using acrylics from Michaels...scroll back a bit and take a look at the pics..
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Old Mar 08, 2012, 11:55 PM
UH-1 Gunship, AH-1G jock 69-71
makeitworst's Avatar
So Cal ... Kingdom of Taxes
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Looks great, the all white tail section is more accurate.

Anybody broken a prop yet? Where or what alternate props work?
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Old Mar 09, 2012, 12:53 PM
UH-1 Gunship, AH-1G jock 69-71
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Originally Posted by D Johnson View Post
Information from E-Fest:
Disassembling Fokker DR1 and Albatros DV, Ronson Lighter Fluid
Removing paint from those planes (and most others): Blue 3M tape may be used on the Depron surfaces to remove about 95% of the paint, Do not use the Green or white tapes as it can pull off the skin. Satellite City/Hot Stuff Super Solvent will remove the paint from these plane with out causing any damage to the foam. This also works on most other EPS, Depron airplanes.
3M 75 removable spray on adhesive is my favorite for making masks for painted markings. A light coat and it will stick and not pull off the paint.
Surface preparation: On EPS once the paint is removed. I like to carefully sand the foam with 400 grit sandpaper. Be careful not to leave gouges or ridges. Once that has been done, Apply a coat of Minwax Polycrylic with a foam brush. Let this dry for at least 3~4 hours and lightly sand it with 400 again. Apply one more coat and sand with 600 grit. You now have a nice stable base for your paint that will allow masking with a minimum risk of pealing the previous layer.
Paint: My personal preference (right now:-)) is Flouquill Polyscale. It has very finely ground pigments which allows exceptional coverage with a minimum of weight gain.

That is today's burst of stream of conscious modeling, more to come with pictures as I find time.

DJ
DJ, is there a tape type that can be used on the existing red fuse that won't pull off the red paint so I can spray paint and get straight edges?? I want to continue the white side stipes on the fuse around the top of the fuse too. You mentioned the 3M Blue can be used to "remove" the original paint, I want to keep it on. BTW, great job on the Lothar styled Dr.1

Where can we get replacement props, just in case??

Thanks
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Old Mar 15, 2012, 09:13 AM
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Originally Posted by makeitworst View Post
DJ, is there a tape type that can be used on the existing red fuse that won't pull off the red paint so I can spray paint and get straight edges?? I want to continue the white side stipes on the fuse around the top of the fuse too. You mentioned the 3M Blue can be used to "remove" the original paint, I want to keep it on. BTW, great job on the Lothar styled Dr.1

Where can we get replacement props, just in case??

Thanks
Post-it notes for a mask and airbrushed water based acrylic craft paint works. Lots of very fine coats.
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Old Mar 15, 2012, 01:57 PM
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Good suggestions Tim! Another way is to put a coat of Minwax Polycrylic on and then you can mask with almost anything. The Polycrylic adheres well to the EPS and adds almost no weight.

DJ
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Old Mar 16, 2012, 12:45 AM
UH-1 Gunship, AH-1G jock 69-71
makeitworst's Avatar
So Cal ... Kingdom of Taxes
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Damn, those are BOTH great suggestions!! See, 40+ years in RC modeling and I'm still learning stuff!

BTW - for those that are trying to paint their DR.1's to accurate paint schemes, including the "Red Baron's" or his brothers plane, rent the old movie produced in Europe The Red Baron. I just watched it again.

I remember a short documentary about that movie where the Director went to great lengths to be extremely accurate about the story, the props and planes and the characters. They did tons of research. There was a Dr.1 with an all white tail, but is was not Manfred von Richthofen or Lotar's. Manfred's was totally red, not even white side stripe with Iron Cross.

Think I'll still leave the tail white ... I want to see the damn thing better ... but I might just paint over the white Cross stripes after-all.

Hey, anyone know how to get the prop off without damaging it or the shaft??
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Old Mar 16, 2012, 07:11 AM
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Originally Posted by makeitworst View Post
Damn, those are BOTH great suggestions!! See, 40+ years in RC modeling and I'm still learning stuff!

BTW - for those that are trying to paint their DR.1's to accurate paint schemes, including the "Red Baron's" or his brothers plane, rent the old movie produced in Europe The Red Baron. I just watched it again.

I remember a short documentary about that movie where the Director went to great lengths to be extremely accurate about the story, the props and planes and the characters. They did tons of research. There was a Dr.1 with an all white tail, but is was not Manfred von Richthofen or Lotar's. Manfred's was totally red, not even white side stripe with Iron Cross.

Think I'll still leave the tail white ... I want to see the damn thing better ... but I might just paint over the white Cross stripes after-all.

Hey, anyone know how to get the prop off without damaging it or the shaft??
The Prop pulls straight off. Hold the shaft with needle nosed pliers while pulling on the prop.

The Flyzone Plane isn't modeled after the real "Red Baron" plane, but instead is modeled after a real replica "Red Baron" at the Hanover Aviation musuem.

The Deutch Museum in Munich has a more acurate paint scheme on their "Red Baron" replica, but it still has a white tail and no Iron Crosses.
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