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Old Feb 21, 2012, 01:21 PM
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Hepdog's Avatar
Stonewall, MB, Can
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BlazingStar View Post
Yes! Big bird needs big build thread.
good luck!
Good point - I always forget to start threads....

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...6#post20814584
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Old Feb 24, 2012, 11:32 AM
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Joined Jun 2009
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Ronsin Lighter fluid works well for disassembly. What should be used for reassembly?
Foam safe CA works but is too brittle and hard to take apart again.
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Old Feb 24, 2012, 12:39 PM
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Centreville,VA,USA
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Hey Stew,

I use UHU glue in spots with some clear Scotch tape sanded so paint will stick.
Using the tape 2 strips on each side one front one back saves weight and makes it easier to take appart if needed.

For the LG and all struts I use straight Elmers great for strength.

BTW I had a lot of fun at the West Potomac HS fly-in good seeing you there.

Pete
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Old Feb 24, 2012, 01:17 PM
semper mitis
gentle ben's Avatar
Paducah, Kentucky
Joined Nov 2004
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mtflyr,

For us OCD types which of these Elmers are you using:

http://www.elmers.com/products/glues-and-adhesives/
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Old Feb 24, 2012, 04:29 PM
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I use the old std Elmers white or as listed School Elmers.

Pete
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Old Feb 24, 2012, 05:43 PM
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Chicago, IL
Joined Nov 1999
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I guess this should be obvious, but check your CG after re-painting. I flew my re-marked DR I yesterday, and even with the battery moved forward into the slot I had made at the front of the battery compartment, very tail heavy, needed lots of down, then she flipped upside down, stabilized that way, and plopped onto the ground with no forward speed. (Did I mention it was windier than I thought?)

At first I thought there was no damage, but then I saw the rudder had broken off cleanly at the hinge line. Easy enough to fix, but still disappointing. Even though I stripped off the original paint from the rear of the fuselage, I still had a net gain with the repaint, since the undersides of the stabilizer and fuse weren't painted originally. I'm going to remove the paint on the bottom of the fuse and stab, it's white anyway, and the slight difference won't be noticeable in the air. Might still have to get the battery more forward.
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Old Feb 25, 2012, 06:18 PM
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Thousand Oaks, CA
Joined Jul 2009
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I guess this counts as a Dr1 mod?
FZ Fokker Dr1 to Fokker D8 conversion

This will be a longish post with some details.

The fuselage, elevator and landing gear are from the Fz Dr1.
Super Solvent was used to strip the red paint off of the foam and it worked very well.




I scalled plans for the D8 with the idea of cutting a wing out of 2mm depron.



The wingspan was 16". It worked well enough, but the wing had a nasty droop

but not if I flipped it over


I tried giving it undercamber and a little dihedral, but finally decided not to use it when I realized that I could use a spare P51 wing and cut it to shape. All I had to do was fill in the irregular hole in the P51 wing where the aileron servo is located.
It's more like 17" now

Here it is painted green for the top side

with tissue lozgene on the underside - a first for me and super easy!


AR6400 from the same P51 hangar queen placed far forward in the Dr1 fuse.
Notice the rare earth magnets to hold the fuselage halves together:


I wanted to give this plane pull-pull controls. Another first for me.
Moving the brick forward allowed use of the existing foam bulkhead asthe pivot point for the elevator bellcrank.
Cut a slit, inset the carbon fiber bellcrank assembly, pinch top of foam together and CA shut!

*Picture was taken before the lines were tightened at elevator control horn end

The other foam bulkhead in mid fuselage was used for the rudder bellcrank:

*Picture was taken before the lines were tightened at rudder control horn end

Here is a picture after assembly showing the underside of the tail with all the control lines


Here's a video showing the parts and controls. Notice the heat shrink tubes used to route the rudder control lines out to the inside of the fuselage. Without that the rudder control was ineffective.
D8conversion (2 min 48 sec)

The CF landing gear from a 4site was used as the main wing spar. The other three struts are .04 CF and were eyeballed in with UHU-por as the glue.

It turned out that I did not have the motor far enough forward and the prop (a cut down P51 prop) rubbed on the cowl. The backside of the cowl and dummy motor were sanded down to sit back and the prop clears.

Weight w/o lipo is 31g

If you've read this far and see mistakes or suggestions for improvement, please let me know.

I'm please with how it looks. But not if it does not fly well!




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Old Feb 25, 2012, 10:33 PM
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Centreville,VA,USA
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Wow! Blaze,

Well done she looks great. Love the scheme too.

If those wheel stops pop off try using just small strips of wire insulation just get one that's slightly smaller but will still twist/slide on the axle. I usually add a dab of CA at the end (push the insulation on enough so the CF or wire LG rod axel sticks out) to add the CA with kicker or a dab of epoxy. I always switch the CF main axle LG rod with wire the same diameter as it's not much heavier yet it won't break on hard landings it can also spring some too.

Pete
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Old Feb 26, 2012, 07:57 PM
No dear, That isn't New!
pattypilot's Avatar
United States, IL, Urbana
Joined Nov 2006
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That look's great Blaze. I have extra DR 1 parts for the same idea! More detail about your wing mod, Please. Don't suppose you've flown her yet?

Jim
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Old Feb 26, 2012, 08:17 PM
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Thousand Oaks, CA
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Thanks.
what details do you need about the wing?
we tried a maiden yesterday in a slight breeze.
plenty of power and lift. CG and thrust angle seemed OK.
However as expected it did not fly well because of the slop and non centering pull pull system.
No video to show for it unfortunately.
plenty of throw in the rudder. Not enough in the elevator.
Not sure how to fix it.

Looks like the wheel locks will be the least of my issues ....

Still for the few seconds it flew straight and level it looked reaaaly good.

My easy-off fuselage magnets will turn out to have been a really good idea.

I'll go back to a pushrod system if absolutely necessary but would really like to get the pull system working.
So glad I decided to forego the ailerons!

Would like to hear any ideas!
thanks
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Old Feb 26, 2012, 08:35 PM
No dear, That isn't New!
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Love the magnet idea! will be stealing that also! On the wing, you used a P51 wing? did you cut a new center section? or fill the old one? The wing was really the only thing I was wondering how I was going make work. I’m going to go with ailerons as well. I have an SE 5 with PP ailerons and rudder and worked out some issues with that also. I used monofilament fishing line, 2 pound ice fishing line to be exact turn onyour plane to center your servos,Glue the line to the flight surface horn first, Pull them snug! then a very small drop of CA on the other end. you can’t have any slack in the line in either direction. hope that helped? I have a way of confusing people with my explanations! I often can’t type what I’m trying to convey!

Jim
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Last edited by pattypilot; Feb 26, 2012 at 08:44 PM.
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Old Feb 26, 2012, 08:38 PM
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I really like your DVIII! Great work. Now someone needs to do a DVI as well.

I bailed on the idea of a built up rudder. Too heavy. Using a Styrofoam plate is just the right thickness and seems to weigh the same.

I flew it Fri. in the small school gym our club flies in in the winter. It was very squirley around the pitch axis. I assumed it was tail heavy and rigged a bigger battery fixed just behing the fake motor and it helped, but it still was not as docile as before. Not sure what the issue is. But I guess I should really check the balance. I suppose the top wing incidence could be off too.

It did look nice in the air, and man will it turn on a dime!

I did manage to bang it up by nose diving trying an immelman too low. Some repairs to the motor needed. After 6-7 disassemblies now, it's starting to look a bit haggard.
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Old Feb 26, 2012, 09:16 PM
No dear, That isn't New!
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United States, IL, Urbana
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Blaze, looking at your pictures again. I think you may have a geometry issue on your elevator cables. Can you re-run them and move them forward so the donít have that sharp bend?
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Old Feb 26, 2012, 09:20 PM
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Thousand Oaks, CA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pattypilot View Post
Love the magnet idea! will be stealing that also! On the wing, you used a P51 wing? did you cut a new center section? or fill the old one? The wing was really the only thing I was wondering how I was going make work. Iím going to go with ailerons as well. I have an SE 5 with PP ailerons and rudder and worked out some issues with that also. I used monofilament fishing line, 2 pound ice fishing line to be exact turn onyour plane to center your servos,Glue the line to the flight surface horn first, Pull them snug! then a very small drop of CA on the other end. you canít have any slack in the line in either direction. hope that helped? I have a way of confusing people with my explanations! I often canít type what Iím trying to convey!

Jim
The p51 wing was slightly trimmed to shape. Basically the ailerons were removed and the leading edge at the saddle cut flat across. Then used a piece of scrap to fill in the irregular aileron gap and cut in the appropriate notch in the d8 wing above the fuse.

I will replace the pp lines with fishingline but wanted to avoid gluing the line directly to the control horns and bellcrank in case I needed to replace or adjust them. That's where I'm going wrong I think. My heat shrink fasteners are not working well and not coming off for adjustments either.

I found 10# fishingline at the sporting place but not 2#. And nothing black!
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Old Feb 26, 2012, 09:22 PM
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Thousand Oaks, CA
Joined Jul 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pattypilot View Post
Blaze, looking at your pictures again. I think you may have a geometry issue on your elevator cables. Can you re-run them and move them forward so the donít have that sharp bend?
Forward in the fuse or the elevator? Or both?

There goes my pretty work
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