Espritmodel.com Telemetry Radio
Reply
Thread Tools
Old Feb 08, 2012, 01:36 AM
DS Addict
ALEX HEWSON's Avatar
Christchurch, New Zealand
Joined Jul 2005
5,022 Posts
Discussion
Wax for Molds/Mylars

Which wax? Where to get etc....

Went into local gardware store to no success. Went into car care store, and only had cream waxs.

I know what it needs to look/feel like, but don't know which and how to find, what it is really called type thing.
ALEX HEWSON is offline Find More Posts by ALEX HEWSON
RCG Plus Member
Reply With Quote
Sign up now
to remove ads between posts
Old Feb 08, 2012, 03:42 AM
Registered User
Hamilton New Zealand
Joined Apr 2005
81 Posts
Release wax in nz

Hi i've found release wax at my local boating shop which is burnsco marine in tauranga. Not sure if they have a store in chch
krisch is offline Find More Posts by krisch
Reply With Quote
Old Feb 08, 2012, 08:35 AM
Aurora Builder
United States, MD, Lusby
Joined Nov 2003
3,412 Posts
Depends. Partall Paste #2 is used when applying PVA over the wax.

If doing straight wax on mylars, no PVA, then you want some of this: http://www.meguiars.com/en/automotiv...ner-wax-paste/
samc99us is online now Find More Posts by samc99us
Reply With Quote
Old Feb 08, 2012, 10:46 AM
Composites guy
North OC, Ca.
Joined Jun 2005
1,176 Posts
mold release and tool sealer( you are going to seal the tool aren't you?) that work well are specific to the composites industry. While you can use carnuba wax, more consistent results are likely with the sealer/release combination designed for this purpose.
Hazardous shipping may be a concern so look for a local(in-county) dealer. If you get stumped, you might talk the the folks at Southern Spars(Auckland IIRC) and see where they get their supplies.

Scott
sarmoby is offline Find More Posts by sarmoby
Reply With Quote
Old Feb 08, 2012, 04:00 PM
Caution:Makes sharp left turns
Troy's Avatar
United States, CA, Lake Forest
Joined Feb 1999
6,004 Posts
You might check out Top Mark products in New Zealand. They sell molding supplies (edit: moulding supplies ).
http://www.topmark.co.nz/
Troy is offline Find More Posts by Troy
RCG Plus Member
Old Feb 11, 2012, 12:59 AM
Peewee Paraparaumu New Zealand
New Zealand
Joined Sep 2004
105 Posts
Hi Alex

http://fibreglassshop.co.nz/

http://www.adhesivetechnologies.co.nz/

http://www.nuplexcomposites.com/nz/?q=node/1



Alex we probably need to talk about release agents etc.

If going the PVA route there are a lot of tips and tricks that help.

I have gone the semi permanent route with plugs and molds but it depends what you are doing.

I am in Chch next Wed evening if you are about.

best
Peewee
flyboypeter is offline Find More Posts by flyboypeter
Reply With Quote
Old Feb 12, 2012, 03:43 PM
DS Addict
ALEX HEWSON's Avatar
Christchurch, New Zealand
Joined Jul 2005
5,022 Posts
Cheers, will send you a text
ALEX HEWSON is offline Find More Posts by ALEX HEWSON
RCG Plus Member
Reply With Quote
Old Feb 15, 2012, 03:19 AM
Entropy is happening!
Jim.Thompson's Avatar
Bellingen NSW Australia
Joined Aug 2008
6,509 Posts
Correct application - wax and PVA.

Its also important to know just how to apply the wax and the PVA. I'm speaking from experience here: I didn't know for my first 4 or 5 jobs.
Your pal above will no doubt set you straight. I was talking to one of the employees at a proffessional fibreglassing shop. I told him that I was happy because the boss just showed me the correct way to apply the PVA and that I should have known two years ago. His reponse was, that John (his boss) showed him how to apply it correctly recently and that he should have know 20 years ago!
I didn't feel such and ignorant fool after that.
Once I did both proceedures correctly, the parts released fine. I was getting stick ups before then. I hold some sort of record for stuck plugs.

Jim.
Jim.Thompson is offline Find More Posts by Jim.Thompson
RCG Plus Member
Latest blog entry: Yet another light plank!
Reply With Quote
Old Feb 15, 2012, 04:06 PM
"Take Off" eh!
vettster's Avatar
Canada, ON, Beeton
Joined Aug 2008
3,034 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jimbello View Post
Its also important to know just how to apply the wax and the PVA. I'm speaking from experience here: I didn't know for my first 4 or 5 jobs.
Your pal above will no doubt set you straight. I was talking to one of the employees at a proffessional fibreglassing shop. I told him that I was happy because the boss just showed me the correct way to apply the PVA and that I should have known two years ago. His reponse was, that John (his boss) showed him how to apply it correctly recently and that he should have know 20 years ago!
I didn't feel such and ignorant fool after that.
Once I did both proceedures correctly, the parts released fine. I was getting stick ups before then. I hold some sort of record for stuck plugs.

Jim.
Please do tell Im very new to this. Ive made my first ever mold just resently, and though I waxed it 2 times and PVA it twice. The plug still was very difficult to remove.

I just finished doing a layup. First I wet sanded the mold with 400,600 and then 6000 grit. This time I applied 3 coats of canuaba wax(not regular wax like with the mold) I then misted on 3 coats of PVA ..one at a time letting the previous coat dry.

Please tell me Im finnally doing it right Im using Polyester resin,, so I guess Ill find out in about 3 more hours
vettster is offline Find More Posts by vettster
RCG Plus Member
Latest blog entry: Im selling my 220mph jet
Reply With Quote
Old Feb 15, 2012, 11:13 PM
Entropy is happening!
Jim.Thompson's Avatar
Bellingen NSW Australia
Joined Aug 2008
6,509 Posts
Mould wax.

Quote:
Originally Posted by vettster View Post
Please do tell Im very new to this. Ive made my first ever mold just resently, and though I waxed it 2 times and PVA it twice. The plug still was very difficult to remove.

I just finished doing a layup. First I wet sanded the mold with 400,600 and then 6000 grit. This time I applied 3 coats of canuaba wax(not regular wax like with the mold) I then misted on 3 coats of PVA ..one at a time letting the previous coat dry.

Please tell me Im finnally doing it right Im using Polyester resin,, so I guess Ill find out in about 3 more hours
Ok. I will find some links for you where much of this has been discussed at length. Here's one to start with: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1428672

Adam (WyowindWorks) has posted an article somewhere here called: "Why Moulds Stick" which is mandatory reading I think. Here it is:

Jim.
Jim.Thompson is offline Find More Posts by Jim.Thompson
RCG Plus Member
Latest blog entry: Yet another light plank!
Reply With Quote
Old Feb 16, 2012, 07:47 AM
"Take Off" eh!
vettster's Avatar
Canada, ON, Beeton
Joined Aug 2008
3,034 Posts
Thanks Jim. Very interesting reading there.

Trevor
vettster is offline Find More Posts by vettster
RCG Plus Member
Latest blog entry: Im selling my 220mph jet
Reply With Quote
Old Feb 16, 2012, 04:04 PM
Entropy is happening!
Jim.Thompson's Avatar
Bellingen NSW Australia
Joined Aug 2008
6,509 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by vettster View Post
Thanks Jim. Very interesting reading there.

Trevor
If I can condense the salient points I would say that aging a new mould for as long as possible is the go. For a job that I want to keep moving, I consider 1 week to be the minimum. 3 months is excellent. And do sacrificial trial pulls using some scrap glass before laying up the first part in a new mould.

The actually wax application method and the PVA application method are both discussed in the link (I think), so I won't go into details here now.

Jim.
Jim.Thompson is offline Find More Posts by Jim.Thompson
RCG Plus Member
Latest blog entry: Yet another light plank!
Reply With Quote
Old Feb 16, 2012, 05:51 PM
Just fly it!
wyowindworks's Avatar
Cody, WY
Joined Nov 2007
6,915 Posts
Sacrificial pulls are a great idea....especially if you will be trimming the fabric in the mold and potentially nicking the PVA. If the mold isn't seasoned those PVA nicks can result is broken edges due to sticking. If you do two sacrificial pulls with light glass then usually a nick in the PVA for a real parts isn't disastrous.
wyowindworks is offline Find More Posts by wyowindworks
Reply With Quote
Old Feb 16, 2012, 06:17 PM
"Take Off" eh!
vettster's Avatar
Canada, ON, Beeton
Joined Aug 2008
3,034 Posts
Im only make two wing tanks for an PA F-104(not the tip tanks) Ive made two halfs so far. The first one was very difficult to remove. The secound one was a bit easier. I expect the last two to come out of the mold much better.

Thanks guys

Trevor
vettster is offline Find More Posts by vettster
RCG Plus Member
Latest blog entry: Im selling my 220mph jet
Reply With Quote
Old Feb 16, 2012, 08:00 PM
Arrarrar!
josh18's Avatar
Australia, NSW, Wagga Wagga
Joined Jan 2010
3,213 Posts
Hey fellas. Ive just made my second wing mould. I'm yet to make a part without PVA so have no experience there but have had nothing but good luck with using PVA. My plugs were acryllic grey primer sanded to about 2000 grit, waxed and sprayed with pva in a conventional spray gun. This was fairly straight foreward, but I didnt worry too much about the odd dust spot. My plug did stick slightly in the mould but I think it was mainly due to many layers of spray putty and primer being used, and the pva seems to react with it slightly in odd areas. If I used a top coat it may have helped but its not a big deal as the paint was easily picked out afterwards. For my firt parts, I used about 5 coats of TR108 wax then used pva rubbed on wet with a rag, left to dry and then painted over in the mould. This was left to dry over night but I have only let dry about an hour or so before with good results. The layup was pretty standard, and by the time the skins were joined they probably had about 48 hours to dry. After joining the skins I opened it up after about 24 hours and It went very easily with not a hint of stick up.
Because my mould surface has a lot of dust marks in it and I used PVA in the layup, the paint comes out very hazy, but with about 30 minutes with cutting compound and polish it is up to a mirror shine. Because the surface is very uniform (no orange peel like regular sprayed paint) it polishes up wery quickly.
I think for all the risks of going wax only, its just not worth it for the home builder, especially seeing you can get a brilliant finish with just a bit of polishing at the end, and bearing in mind I spent next to no time polishing the innitial plug- all I was concerned about was flatness and trying to keep the airfoil.
Thanks, Josh
josh18 is offline Find More Posts by josh18
Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools

Similar Threads
Category Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Question Painting mylars - any time limits? MattyB Slope 9 Sep 02, 2011 08:17 AM
Idea Loss wax construction mcm1303 Scratchbuilt Indoor and Micro Models 0 Mar 29, 2011 01:15 PM
Question Wich wax do you use for molds Fabrice67 Composites Fabrication 8 May 11, 2009 10:36 AM
Discussion On using wax on molds Mihai Composites Fabrication 9 Jun 27, 2008 12:17 AM
paint for molds and wing mylars in uk thermaled Composites Fabrication 8 May 17, 2005 03:37 PM