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Old Apr 28, 2012, 07:05 PM
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Glens Falls, NY
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Question! Do xoar props...like their 15"-16" props come with the center hole drilled to the correct size or do you have to drill it out? Do any props come with the center hole drilled to the correct size? And lastly, does anyone have a really good way to drill the center hole and keep it centered, like a tool, not just going up every drill bit size?
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Old Apr 28, 2012, 07:07 PM
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United States, NC, Hertford
Joined Oct 2007
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Prop reamers work great. I have the great planes one. Its setup for a hand drill but Im lazy and just put it in my dewalt drill and go. I've drilled out CF props, aluminum back plates, APC props, and wood props and that thing is still sharp after 4 years of abuse
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Old Apr 28, 2012, 07:17 PM
TEAM HILLBILLY
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Groveport, OH...USA
Joined Nov 2010
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i think the hole in the 15-16" props is too big....a spacer is needed....unless i missed something
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Old Apr 28, 2012, 07:19 PM
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United States, NC, Hertford
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I didn't see which motor. So you might be right. Though a prop reamer is good to have in the too box
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Old Apr 28, 2012, 07:23 PM
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Glens Falls, NY
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Prop reamer....now you tell me! Yep that's what I need, didn't even know they existed! Thanks!
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Last edited by TG43; Apr 28, 2012 at 08:10 PM.
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Old Apr 28, 2012, 08:13 PM
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United States, NC, Hertford
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The 4315 has an 8mm prop adapter
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Old Apr 28, 2012, 10:15 PM
I fly, therefore, I crash!!!
SteveT.'s Avatar
San Jose, CA
Joined Jan 2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by marksextra View Post
Well....if you want to use an aluminum servo arm the the 2mm bolts/ball links won't work for one thing.

I ended up having to get a 2mm to 4/40 conversion ball link to be able to use an SWB aluminum servo arm. Oh and to confirm for some....most 4/40 don't work because the ball link doesn't fit very well between the control horns.
I use Secraft or Spot-on aluminum 4-40 arms on my planes...no problems, but I make a small modification.... The inside diameter of these Dubro pull/pull crimps, are the perfect size for 2mm screws. So, I just drill the 4-40 arm to .001" undersize and push these in and cut them off flush on the bottom. Then just use the stock 2mm screw and ball...

SteveT
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Old Apr 28, 2012, 10:22 PM
I fly, therefore, I crash!!!
SteveT.'s Avatar
San Jose, CA
Joined Jan 2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TG43 View Post
Prop reamer....now you tell me! Yep that's what I need, didn't even know they existed! Thanks!
And prop reamers come in both metric and fractional sizes..

SteveT
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Old Apr 29, 2012, 12:01 AM
3D-wanna-B
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Lynchburg, VA
Joined Dec 2008
309 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by quadracer View Post
the wire bends VERY easily, and becomes a nuisance to straighten out after every landing.
Quote:
Originally Posted by lammbn View Post
I have yet to need to bend my gear back at all in over 60 flights that i have on my 48.
Have to agree with lamm on this one --- I have a SLIGHT bend in my wire from my very first landing but nothing severe at all and not even worth bending back. I could definitely see how grass could bend the wire but I fly off asphalt so don't have that problem and I really think you would have to slam it down on asphalt to bend the wire all the way back to the fuse. But as has been said, do the screw LG mod and you're good to go.
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Old Apr 29, 2012, 01:00 AM
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United Kingdom, London
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http://www.electricwingman.com/goril...l-1044401.aspx

guys as i remember there were 2 gorilla glues, 1 good, 1 not so good... was uppermentioned okey or should i go epoxy for a 71" slick?
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Old Apr 29, 2012, 01:28 AM
I fly, therefore, I crash!!!
SteveT.'s Avatar
San Jose, CA
Joined Jan 2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rimaarts View Post
http://www.electricwingman.com/goril...l-1044401.aspx

guys as i remember there were 2 gorilla glues, 1 good, 1 not so good... was uppermentioned okey or should i go epoxy for a 71" slick?
The honey colored Gorilla glue is fine....Personally, I prefer epoxy....but that is just my "old school" way of doing things...

I used to buy Hobby Poxy that had a one hour work time....unfortunately , Hobby Poxy went out of business, and I can find any other in the U.S. You guys in the U.K. have this, one hour work time epoxy...that I found at a few different shops in the U.K.....

SteveT
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Last edited by SteveT.; Apr 29, 2012 at 01:34 AM.
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Old Apr 29, 2012, 03:19 AM
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United Kingdom, London
Joined Jul 2011
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So basically 1h epoxy would be even better than 30min? Would soakk in the wood more? I was allways thinking that 1h and more epoxies is mostly for glassing...
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Old Apr 29, 2012, 06:12 AM
Once u go yak u never go back
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Erie, PA
Joined Mar 2005
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even 15 minute expoxy is fine. It all depends on how much time you need to work with it.
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Old Apr 29, 2012, 06:27 AM
TEAM HILLBILLY
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Groveport, OH...USA
Joined Nov 2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rimaarts View Post
So basically 1h epoxy would be even better than 30min? Would soakk in the wood more? I was allways thinking that 1h and more epoxies is mostly for glassing...
glassing what?....actions?
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Old Apr 29, 2012, 07:05 AM
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United Kingdom, London
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I mean layer of fibreglass-epoxy, sanding, sanding, fibreglass, epoxy, sanding..
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