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Old Feb 10, 2012, 10:28 AM
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Clark Wohlert's Avatar
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@symon,

the long swingarm makes the bike incredibly easy to drive. it does not wheelie anymore and is much easier to accelerate out of the corner even with high leaning angle.
one might think that the price for this advantage is a less handy bike in corners but due to the weight transfer it even goes through corners quicker.

you defintly loose traction but in my opinion traction is not really important as long as you do not loose stability to the side.

in the end we found it a winwin situation. the 5 different positions enable you to adopt the front geometry as this also affects the total wheelbase.

in fact with our rear swing arm you would be able to go over the 320mm limit, so be carefull and check the wheelbase.

@young1670,

the onepiece front fork will enable you to freely adjust the caster in front without having to buy various front forks and every time you change them as well dismount and mount the brake system.
just release two screws, change the caster and tighten them again and the job is done. so you are able to even in one stint chek which setup works out best for you.

furthermore you will be able to mount a solid brake support that can carry the futaba servo without having to shim it or even modify the servos`housing.

and sometimes important as well................the posing factor of this piece will be quite high
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Old Feb 12, 2012, 10:09 AM
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South Korea
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Hi Clark,

Can I use your one piece front fork with Edi's steering head and triple onepiece clmap head?
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Old Feb 13, 2012, 03:46 AM
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@youn1670,

as for now only the outside shape of our mould is really fixed in the drawing. once we get the pieces out of the mould it is not a big deal do change the machinejob that is done afterwards.

we will try to make the part as compatible to the original as we can and if edis`onepiece head uses the same positions for the wholes to fix the fork to the head, it should work.

thank you very much for the hint. it is our goal not to stress our customers pockets too much and not to force them to buy things twice.

so if other onepiece heads would work with our fork, we would be able to offer our kit without our own onepiece head as well to save your money.
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Old Feb 13, 2012, 04:37 AM
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Tirol
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Quote:
Originally Posted by young1670 View Post
Hi Clark,

Can I use your one piece front fork with Edi's steering head and triple onepiece clmap head?
The one piece steering head I made fits to the original "KIT" carbon forks. Please keep in mind that the RTR forks and steering heads have a different hole pattern and geometry.
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Old Feb 13, 2012, 09:02 AM
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Hi Clark,

Do you planing to make a lexsan battery cover with round bottom end and a lead weight that fits in round bottom end? It will lower the COG more effectively than putting lead on side of battery box. It will also give some space for rubber band.
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Old Feb 13, 2012, 10:46 AM
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@young 1670,

yes indeed we are allready doing some drawings for a lexan cover that is extremly slimline to work in combination with our slim carbon side parts.

at this stage the shape is not finished so i can take in consideration any hint you supply.
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Old Feb 13, 2012, 11:21 AM
MY '75 CZ "FALTA REPLICA" 2010
TopDave's Avatar
Waterford, Michigan
Joined May 2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Clark Wohlert View Post
@young 1670,

yes indeed we are allready doing some drawings for a lexan cover the is extremly slimline to work in combination with our slim carbon side parts.

at this stage the shape is not finished so i can take in consideration any hint you supply.
Hi Clark,
Make one for the stock battery box / side plate too. Even 1.5mm per side on the lower front would be a huge improvement for guys not wanting to spend a ton of $money that don't have the opportunity to race, but don't want to drag the lower fairing thru the turns! (I'm about to take the heat gun to mine, LOL) Thanks for hearing our ideas! Dave
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Old Feb 14, 2012, 04:06 AM
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@topdave,

right now i am "fighting" with with bernd ( the man in the background who is doing all the cad jobs ), about the shape.

while i prefer a fairing totally designed for racing and possible leak of look, he prefers a solution that does compromise on performance but looks nicer.

maybee your ideas helps us both to find a compromise or do 2 moulds, one with outstanding look that fits to the rtr bike and anotherone clearliy dedicated to racers who use our lightscale carbon slim side parts.

i have attached some pictures that show the status of our lightscale fairing.

comments, hints ideas and critics are highly welcome and help us to make better products for you.
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Old Feb 14, 2012, 04:23 PM
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Memphis, TN USA
Joined Apr 2009
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Is anyone trying to develop a solution for the front suspension arm slack? Both my SB-5 pros have slop in the rear hinge pins when built from new kits. Would be nice to tighten that up, possibly a whole new arm set with better tolerances and stiffer material..or a bronze bushing pressed in the arms...any thought?
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Old Feb 14, 2012, 04:27 PM
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Tirol
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dragbikebam View Post
Is anyone trying to develop a solution for the front suspension arm slack? Both my SB-5 pros have slop in the rear hinge pins when built from new kits. Would be nice to tighten that up, possibly a whole new arm set with better tolerances and stiffer material..or a bronze bushing pressed in the arms...any thought?
I handed out off the shelf plastic bushigs. You need to drill holes and then
just press them into it. -> Zero play.
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Old Feb 14, 2012, 08:52 PM
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Hi Clark,

That is the exactly what I was thinking about. Great.
I hope you make a lead weight that fit in round bottom of lexan battery cover. I think we can use a double side adhesive tapes to secure a lead weight. However, it maybe need four flat head screws to mount a lead weight secure.

So I think you have to make a counter sunk holes for flat head screws in a lexan battery cover. Also, considering increased weight because of lead weight, it will be better to have two additional body posts.

Great job Clark.
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Old Feb 14, 2012, 08:52 PM
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South Korea
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Quote:
Originally Posted by edi.winter View Post
I handed out off the shelf plastic bushigs. You need to drill holes and then
just press them into it. -> Zero play.
Hi Edi,

Do you have photos for that?
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Old Mar 23, 2012, 09:09 AM
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Hi, Clark,

I sent PM. Please check.
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Old Oct 29, 2012, 03:53 AM
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362 Posts
hi all,

attached find pictures of our latest lightscale upgrade designed for the sb5 bike.

it is a kit consisting of carbon front fork with optimised caster, brake set including an alloy saddle, steel pads, epoxy disk and front axle.

the brake can be mounted either left or right and operates 100% precisely. it needs no more adjusting of the gap betwean disc and pads.

the optimised fork lets the bike steer much better and gain corner speeds. the fork later will also be availlble as a stand alone part, as it also works in combination with th e standard sb5 brake. our alloy brake saddle need the lightscale fork but will also be availlable as a single part as well as the pads. those can also be used with the sb5 brake.

in addition to the new upgrade parts lightscale also offers a complete upgrade kit for the sb5 bike which includes all present availlable lightscale hopups as there are the rear swing arm set, the slimline chassis left and right and off course the new fork and brake set. the kit comes together with the futaba 3156 servo which is the dedicated servo to be used with our brake.
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Old Oct 29, 2012, 10:10 AM
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South Korea
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Hi Clark,

You are not using SB5 front axle. Is there any special reasion?
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