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Old Feb 06, 2012, 10:24 AM
RC 4 Life
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Fort Worth, TX USA
Joined Feb 2001
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New Product
The "Popfly" Returns as the Popfly 2

The title of the thread was picked because the original Popfly has been out of production for many years. Once offered by E.A.M. ; the Popfly sold so many I had to train my kids how to cut the foam for the wing cores.
It was some good one on one time with my boys and the bucks helped too. Thank you to every one that bought one.
From what I've been told there are still several of them that has not been assembled yet. I have no idea why. .

The name was intended to show it could be flown in the space of a local ball park but found its way indoors with lighter equipment installed. Keep in mind this was back in the brushed - NiCad days. About a year after its release the market was flooded with flying wings and the pop fly had seen it's day in the sun.
About 4 years ago I turned over the tooling to a friend because he wanted to bring it back. Only 10 kits was made because he discovered how much work it involved in producing a kit. I guess I should have warned him . . . .my bad.
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Old Feb 06, 2012, 10:28 AM
RC 4 Life
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Fort Worth, TX USA
Joined Feb 2001
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Fast forward to today.

What I needed for my website was a good entry level model to introduce people to foam construction.
So the Popfly 2 was redesigned with simplicity in mind right from the start. It can be assembled in the space of a desk top in just a few building sessions. With the only down side being the glue set up time.
( I like using gorilla glue and strongly suggest you learn how to use it too)

The Popfly 2 is available on the site now.

www.parkflyerplastics.com

It is available as a full airframe kit. (hardware and electronics not included)
Before you buy it you should know that the Popfly 2 has been turned in as a construction article to Fly RC magazine. This means that the plans will be available as a free down load from the magazine when the article has been published. The plastic parts will be made available on the site at that time for the scratch builders.
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Old Feb 06, 2012, 10:29 AM
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Fort Worth, TX USA
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Now that you are up to speed about the Popfly 2
I'll give it a day or two to give the subscribers a chance to get connected to the thread and use this post for the videos when I get around to getting it edited.

I'm currently building a strictly indoor version right now and I'm on hold for the smaller equipment.
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Old Feb 07, 2012, 11:53 AM
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Great too see this thread, i remeber seeing those at EAM
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Old Feb 08, 2012, 01:29 AM
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Fort Worth, TX USA
Joined Feb 2001
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To start the Popfly 2 all the ribs and the leading edges are cut (scratched built) or pushed out of the parts sheet. I put a dab of gorilla glue on the leading edges just forward of the slots and slid them in place. Then aligned them over the plans while it set up. (Takes about a half hour)
The wing sheeting is then aligned on the plans and the trailing edges are marked with the rib locations and a single line is drawn about 1/16 inch from the trailing edge.
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Old Feb 08, 2012, 01:34 AM
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Fort Worth, TX USA
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I used a 3 inch paper tube to pre shape the leading edge so it will match the curve of the bottom of the ribs. About one half rotation of the tube is all that is needed. Using angle stock to grab and clamp the sheeting will give you a curl right up to the edge.
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Old Feb 08, 2012, 01:41 AM
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Fort Worth, TX USA
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Gorilla glue is applied to the bottom of the ribs and the frame is placed on the sheeting using the marks made earlier for alignment . Small weights hold the frame in place while the glue sets up. Another half hour break.

note the use of sticks to spread the weight out evenly. I have since found that 3/4 inch strips of cardboard work just as well but be careful that the weights don't slide off the cardboard strips.
Also if the sheetings leading edge does not make full contact with the leading edge strip push a pencil under the sheeting to lift it.

That was the first build session,
Aside from letting the glue set up, it took about an half hour so far.
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Old Feb 08, 2012, 10:14 PM
Terry Dunn
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United States, TX, Lubbock
Joined Jan 2001
831 Posts
I'm building a Popfly2 as well. Since I'll be adding lights, I've got a build thread in the Night Flying Forum.
Aside from lights, I'm also using a different power system and radio gear than Keith. Who knows where else I'll deviate from the plans along the way. I think there are lots of ways to skin this cat.

For anyone considering building a Popfly or similar built-up foamy, I can prove that you dont need Keith's mad building skilz to pull it off. Anyone who's seen my stuff up close knows that I'm no craftsman. Keith is...well, he's Keith. 'Nuff sed.

I'll be following along here and comparing notes.

Terry
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Old Feb 12, 2012, 08:45 PM
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Fort Worth, TX USA
Joined Feb 2001
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A night flyer built this way has so many possibilities.
Since it is lit from the inside color combos are possible.
Here is a Shrike I converted to foam sheet and lit up for night flying.
It's hard to see but by mounting blue lights half way down the chord I gave the plane a fade to blue wing.

Looking forward to seeing what terry does with this one. . . .subscribed.

I'll be back to this build very soon.
The indoor Popfly is almost done.
Looks like I'll be shaving off about 2 ounces.
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Old Feb 12, 2012, 09:28 PM
Night Flyer
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United States, TX, Round Rock
Joined May 2005
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Subscribed & ordered.
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Old Feb 13, 2012, 11:27 AM
RC 4 Life
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Fort Worth, TX USA
Joined Feb 2001
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null the servos

If you want the servos hidden ( I did ) you have to install them now. This means that you have to set up the radio now so the arms are in their proper positions.
After you know they move in the proper directions (delta wing mode) bond them to the wing rib with a dab of epoxy to hold it in the opening.
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Old Feb 13, 2012, 11:31 AM
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Fort Worth, TX USA
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I found out later that the motor I used made the model tail heavy. The original design used NiCad's as ballast, since I'm using the same motor; Bonding two half inch nuts in to the tip of the leading edge made the CG close enough to adjust with a little led shot in the tip of the plastic equipment tray later.
Note : If you have the kit only use one nut for ballast; there is a strip of plastic for the leading edge included in the kit that makes use of the needed weight.
Keep all weight aft of the CG at a minimum to keep your Popfly2 light
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Old Feb 13, 2012, 11:35 AM
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Fort Worth, TX USA
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Top sheeting

Pre shape the top sheeting with a taper tube like you did before but rotate the tube as far as you can . about 1/3 of the sheeting LE to TE.

Align the trailing edge of the top sheeting with the bottom sheeting and press down lightly so the servo arm will make a dent in the sheeting. Cut a slot in the sheeting for the servo arm to poke thru.
Roll up the servo leads and tuck it under the leading edge and bottom sheeting for safe keeping.
Apply glue to the ribs and leading edge .
Put the top sheeting in place then the weighted strips working from back to front.
give it over night to dry.
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Old Feb 13, 2012, 11:38 AM
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Fort Worth, TX USA
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The reason we gave it overnight to dry is because the gorilla glue is easier to sand when it has set up all the way and some of it boils out of the seams.
So, sand the leading edge flat, bond a 6 mm strip along the flat spot then sand it to shape. Trimming with a razor will save some time but be careful. Don't forget a dull leading edge is better than a sharp one , sharp leading edges causes wings to stall faster at high angles of attack.
If you have the kit; use the plastic leading edge to test fit as you sand.
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Old Feb 13, 2012, 11:40 AM
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Fort Worth, TX USA
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Sand the wing tips making the sheeting flush with the rib.
Align the bottom of the R1 root rib to the edge of the table, use three scrap pieces of 3mm foam to raise the tip 9mm from the table top. Sand the root 90 degrees to the table top .
I was able to use the edge of the work surface as a 90 degree guide. If you can't sand the edge of the work surface ( kitchen table? ) protect it with some card stock. this step does not take long so the card stock should hold up to this light sanding.
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