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Old Jun 22, 2012, 09:33 PM
Stop scaring my donkey!
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For the Humphrey Bogart fans, "We don need no stinkin' ebay."
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Old Jun 27, 2012, 05:36 AM
Radio? Screwdriver!
United Kingdom, England, Bristol
Joined Aug 2011
941 Posts
Hi All,

Those that are interested in buying one directly, give me a PM - as I don't want to upset the mods by using this thread as a sales thread and exceeding the one advert post per week rule. Any rx left by the end of the week I'll put up on eBay to be sold.

For those interested, the price directly not through eBay is:
Rx: £14.50 (eBay will be £15.99, as eBay charge 10% on items sold)
Each receiver includes 5 Micro Servo Connector Leads and a Bind lead.

Postage rates:
UK: £2.10
Europe: £3.10 (for up to 3 receivers, then +£1.55 each additional)
World: £3.50 (for up to 3 receivers, then +£1.75 each additional)
Additional costs go up for over 3 receivers as postal insurance goes up significantly. Royal Mail (the UK postal provider) claim that they aim that delivery will take 5 days worldwide.

Airsure (quicker postage - usually 2 days worldwide):
Europe: £9.50 (+£3 each additional)
World: £9.00 (+£3 each additional)

As was on eBay text before:
Quote:
Please make sure you agree to all of below before buying this product.

This sale is for a 5 Channel Micro Receiver, suitable for indoor and parkflyer aircraft that work with the Hitec 2.4GHz A-FHSS system. Originally based on an FrSKY VD5M receiver, this has been modified (by myself) to run on a Hitec 2.4GHz system. To do this, I reverse engineered my Hitec system and from that knowledge, completed a completely independent receiver firmware that is compatible with the Hitec system.

How this has been done has been described on this RC-Groups thread: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1588721

I and some friends have extensively tested these units over the last month and they have proven to be rock solid in use. Now, even though I expect no one will have any problems, I should mention that these still should be regarded as prototype test units, so I cannot be liable for any loss or damage caused by using these. Use them at your own risk! I would very strongly advise against putting these in any large and/or expensive aircraft - not that you’d want to put a 2g indoor/parkflyer receiver in one anyway!

As they’re park flier receivers, don’t expect to get a range as far as the full-range Hitec Optima receivers. When in range test mode (beeping transmitter module), you’ll find that the distance before it locks out and goes into failsafe will be shorter than the full-range receivers. However, in use, we found we could reliably get at least 300m range before the model became too small to be flyable. Hence they are ideal for small parkfly models and indoor craft – the kind that you would put the Spektrum Parkflyer receivers into.

Also as these are non-telemetry receivers, you’ll need to make sure your Hitec transmitter module supports Minima mode (Spectra module v3.01 onwards). You can test this by putting the module into bind mode and pressing the button on the back – it should alternate between a red LED (Optima bind mode) and a blue LED (Minima bind mode).

One final point is that the colour pinout of the bind cable doesn’t correspond to the pin out on the receiver (thanks FrSKY…). The actual pinout is reverse, so the bottom pin (closet to the PCB edge) is negative, middle positive and top signal. Ensure you get this correct otherwise you’ll damage the receiver and/or servos and ESC attached.

Note: this product is not a Hitec RCD product, nor endorsed by Hitec RCD!
In fact it has nothing to do with Hitec RCD apart from it being compatible with their transmitter modules!
So if your interested, feel free to drop me a PM.

Cheers,
Si.
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Old Jun 28, 2012, 05:29 PM
Radio? Screwdriver!
United Kingdom, England, Bristol
Joined Aug 2011
941 Posts
Well, they have all gone now! Everyone who has bought from me, they are now in the Post and should be to you in the next week or so.

Sorry for those that missed out or was waiting for the eBay auction. No fear though, I have put another 7 on order (with a further 7 on order that is stuck with a back-ordered item) that should come in a couple of weeks. Expect 2-4 weeks before I can get them up again.

Thank-you to everyone who has bought one, and I hope you have a lot of fun with them!

Attached below is the help sheet that I have supplied with the receivers - just in case it becomes misplaced in the future. One thing to note is that the fail-safe is different on the very first lot of 4 receivers I sold.

On the first 4, on signal loss and if failsafe hasn't been set, it will revert to all channels centred, except 3, which would be neutral. On the last batch of 14, on signal loss and if failsafe hasn't been set, it will stop sending the servo pulses.

Of course, if failsafe is set on either version then it will revert to those failsafe settings on signal loss. If you rebind the receiver, it will loose those failsafe settings and revert to the defaults above.

I changed this behaviour so certain electronics like ESC or quad-copters, etc will know its in failsafe mode and revert to their failsafe settings.

One final thing I haven't mentioned (cause I kept it a sekret ) is that the receivers output CPPM signal. I haven't mentioned this as I haven't tested this extensively (only looked at the signal on my scope to check that it looks reasonable) and so I don't know if the signal is being output correctly. Anyway if someone wants it for something - like a micro quad-copter, heli or even to link to a PC Simulator lead for wireless control, then you'll find it on the program header solder pad under the cardboard case. If people are interested in testing this out and need help on which pad it is, let me know here and I'll create a pin-out picture. Note I must stress that, this is a hidden easter-egg feature, so please don't expect it to work properly! Of course, it may work perfectly... Feel free to test it if you want though.

Cheers,

Si.
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Old Jul 02, 2012, 04:52 AM
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Belfast / Dublin
Joined May 2004
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Hi Si,

Rx's look great ! this is definitely the way forward for me as my normal flight path is within 200m radius and park scale...

got a quick Q for you - i'm contemplating popping one onto an RC Factory Flash ... this is a profile metre span foamy just like the Hyperion Sniper etc.

thing is, to stiffen the fuse there is a 3mm carbon strip slotted into both outside edges running the length of the fuse... do you think that should be cool? Rx will still be at least an inch away from that strip and there is no suggestion of the Rx being in any contact or in any way "surrounded" or housed by any carbon "cocoon" or the like...

i'll range test her on power down mode as a matter of course

hope you sell a truck load of these things

cheers

bb
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Old Jul 03, 2012, 04:46 PM
Radio? Screwdriver!
United Kingdom, England, Bristol
Joined Aug 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by big bird View Post
Hi Si,

Rx's look great ! this is definitely the way forward for me as my normal flight path is within 200m radius and park scale...

got a quick Q for you - i'm contemplating popping one onto an RC Factory Flash ... this is a profile metre span foamy just like the Hyperion Sniper etc.

thing is, to stiffen the fuse there is a 3mm carbon strip slotted into both outside edges running the length of the fuse... do you think that should be cool? Rx will still be at least an inch away from that strip and there is no suggestion of the Rx being in any contact or in any way "surrounded" or housed by any carbon "cocoon" or the like...

i'll range test her on power down mode as a matter of course

hope you sell a truck load of these things

cheers

bb
A tough one to call to be certain. As you know, carbon is great at absorbing radio signals. I would make sure that the antenna is as far away from the carbon as possible. The biggest problem is when the antenna, in a direct line of sight with the transmitter antenna, has the carbon in the way. Now this won't be a problem when close up (<150m), however if your doing 3d manoeuvres relatively far out (which would be perfectly possible with a 1m span aircraft) you may find it starts to hit failsafe.

So it depends entirely on your flying style with it. If your going to keep it in close, doing 3d manoeuvres, you won't have a problem. However if you want to do your 3d manoevures 200m away or up then you could start having problems. The last thing you want is to be hovering far away but low and the failsafe kicks in and the ESC cuts the throttle! But I suppose being a profile foamy, it would probably be pretty easy to recover from.

Sorry if that's not much help, however I don't want to say its going to be perfectly ok when there obviously could be issues. For a point of reference however, I first flight tested the receiver in a Britflight Hustle, which has a carbon spar down the middle of the wing. Signal was good to around 300m line of sight, however manoeuvring into certain orientations at that distance I could get the fail-safe to kick in. Close in though (<150m), I had no issues. Now I couldn't say when manoeuvring, if it was either the carbon fibre reinforcing or if the fact the antenna polarisation affected the signal.

Really the only way is to try it and see. If you keep it up high but relatively close-in, if the fail-safe does kick in, then you can trade the height for signal strength.

Cheers,

Si.
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Old Jul 04, 2012, 02:42 PM
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sounds cool, and thanks for the detailed response ...

i'll proceed accordingly ... i'll fly her about and see how she goes with the Rx mounted as advantageously as possible ... im pretty much a 100m man in the park that I currently use so i may never encounter the failsafe... but I'll keep it all in mind

thanks again

bb
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Old Jul 11, 2012, 05:51 PM
...just an earth bound misfit
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My receivers arrived by post today and they are, like kittens and puppies, perfect and tiny. Thankfully I've got a new pair of high powered reading glasses with integrated LEDs to use for hooking it all up.

They are bound to my transmitter module, driving servos, and failsafes are set.

Note that step 2 of the written instructions (v1.1 - 27 June 2012) incorrectly say to connect the bind jump lead between channel 5 and channel 1. The correct hookup, as listed in Simon's video is to connect channel 5 and channel 2.

Thanks again to Simon for pushing the hobby onward, and helping to make the A9 even more useful in the process!
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Old Jul 11, 2012, 08:12 PM
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so that's jump lead into channels 1 and 5 to bind

and

channels 2 and 5 to set failsafe
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Old Jul 11, 2012, 08:13 PM
Stop scaring my donkey!
JohnathanSwift's Avatar
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Joined Mar 2012
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How are folks connecting servos and escs into these little jewels?

I have two, and am ready to start using them.
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Old Jul 11, 2012, 08:45 PM
...just an earth bound misfit
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Joined Mar 2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SimonChambers View Post
... If people are interested in testing this out and need help on which pad it is
I want to give all three of the application you mentioned a kick, and possibly give it a go with the EagleTree OSD Pro & Guardian.

Shouldn't need any pictures but a pinout would help.

Calling pin 1 the square pad closest to the CH1 connector, then pin 4 is ground, and I expect it wouldn't take long to find the ppm pin with an oscilloscope and Vdd with a multimeter. However, since you've already dissected these things very thoroughly, it might be reassuring and potentially helpful to get function of the remaining pads straight from the horse's mouth.
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Old Jul 11, 2012, 08:53 PM
...just an earth bound misfit
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnathanSwift View Post
How are folks connecting servos and escs into these little jewels?

I have two, and am ready to start using them.
You can get a few servos that will work directly with these receivers. Not sure about ESCs but adapters can take care of that if it's a problem.

You can see I just cut up some servo extenders and 1s battery extenders and soldered to the little molex leads that Simon provided.

HobbyKing has a couple of items to help:

Molex125 lead:
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dProduct=19565

JR-to-Molex125 adapter:
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dProduct=21757
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Old Jul 12, 2012, 09:01 AM
Radio? Screwdriver!
United Kingdom, England, Bristol
Joined Aug 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dirt-Torpedo View Post
Note that step 2 of the written instructions (v1.1 - 27 June 2012) incorrectly say to connect the bind jump lead between channel 5 and channel 1. The correct hookup, as listed in Simon's video is to connect channel 5 and channel 2.
Oops, good spot! Typo.

I've uploaded a revised manual.

Great to hear that they're working well for you. Hope you have as much fun flying with them, as I did developing this!

I'll try and get a picture up later with a pin-out of the connector. If I don't get it done by the end of today, give me a gentle reminder in case I have forgotten!

Cheers,
Si.
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Old Jul 12, 2012, 09:22 AM
Stop scaring my donkey!
JohnathanSwift's Avatar
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Joined Mar 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dirt-Torpedo View Post
You can get a few servos that will work directly with these receivers. Not sure about ESCs but adapters can take care of that if it's a problem.

You can see I just cut up some servo extenders and 1s battery extenders and soldered to the little molex leads that Simon provided.

HobbyKing has a couple of items to help:

Molex125 lead:
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dProduct=19565

JR-to-Molex125 adapter:
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dProduct=21757

Thanks.

Simon included some pigtails (love that term) with the smaller connector: any reason I can't put the bare wires directly into the servos or esc and fix in place with hot glue?
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Old Jul 12, 2012, 02:59 PM
...just an earth bound misfit
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnathanSwift View Post
Thanks.

Simon included some pigtails (love that term) with the smaller connector: any reason I can't put the bare wires directly into the servos or esc and fix in place with hot glue?
Connectors are unreliable enough when used properly. Your idea would be fine for non-critical bench testing, and it might even work for a while, but putting it in the air would be flying on a wing and a prayer. The tinned ends of those pigtails are only suitable for soldering, and their material, shape, and size makes them a bad choice for insertion into an engineered contact.

Over the years I've been bitten too many times in prototyping circuits on breadboard with telephone wire. Now I will only use perfboard and soldered components/wires.

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Old Jul 12, 2012, 03:16 PM
Stop scaring my donkey!
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Right you are! My father used to say, "There is the right way, the wrong way, and the Army way." I reckon the Army way was my choice, but I'll reconsider!
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