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Old Feb 16, 2012, 11:24 PM
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United States, OK, Tulsa
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Back again, had some minor computer catastrophes, but all is okay now. Thanks for the kind words JollyRoger. The motor I have is a C6364-230kv rated 70A at 8S lipoly ESC is a Phoenix ICE 100A, Batteries 2X - 4S 4000mAh 25-50CTurnigy Nano-Tech, Turnigy HV 5A UBEC with 2S - 1100 mAh LiFe battery for Receiver and Servos.

To continue the build here are the most recent pictures, first is the fin with one side sheeted. The manual does not say to do anything with the rudder or elevator at this time but I got the elevator halves attached to the 5/16" dowel and rough sanded. I did this so I could drill the holes for the Robart hinge pins, would rather do that before the horizontal stab and fin are glued to the fuselage. The plans do not call for it but I am thinking about tapering the elevator and rudder down to about 1/8" at the trailing edge.

CCcuter the kouger is looking great, really nice, the color scheme sounds good, do you have a sketch or picture of the color scheme?

Wuest3141, Yes the lower wing will have to come off to change the battery one of the reasons for having the arming plug there, can put the batteries in and button things up without any danger of the prop running. The Phaeton 90 is 1576 Sq in area, specified at 11-12 lbs I hope to get the AUW at 10lbs I am crossing my fingers!

GeorgeAir states what other people have said it is mainly designed as a sport flyer and that it lands at a snails pace, hope that is true with mine.
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Old Feb 17, 2012, 11:42 AM
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Central Lake, Michigan
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Looks like a good power package you've got planned. I've been looking at the Turnigy Nano-Tech packs just this week. I talked with a flyer from another club who uses them and has no complaints, in fact he considers them to be as good as T.P. , Hyperion packs for a lot less dollars.
Some builders have set up the battery compartment in a vertical manner from either underneath or on top of the fuse. They slide the pack into the tray fixture and secure with velcro straps.
On another electric website, one builder of a 1/4 scale Cub built it so the entire front came forward in order to remove the pack. It was quite the engineering feat if I must say so.
As for having to remove the wing to change flight packs, I have to do the same with a Fly Baby. There was absolutely no way to do it otherwise. I also use an arming switch with it. It's a PTA but what else you gonna do?
Ah yes, I will be stopping by the BUSA booth at Toledo and probably hand them some money for a box of balsa.
cheers
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Old Feb 19, 2012, 10:13 PM
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I haven't got lost yet, I am still up in the air about tapering the elevator and rudder. I have been doing some research and it seems that for RC sport models a flat control surface could be more desirable. Basically I do not want to drill the control surfaces before I taper them if I do so. In the mean time however I have been working on the cowl. I have epoxied the cheeks onto the front section, added some 2 OZ cloth strips on the inside over the seams and sanded the outside seams. There is a lot of sanding to do, and some of it is my fault as I tried to fill seams and hollows in with epoxy when I first glued them together. Had some nasty hills of epoxy to sand down. Still have a number of places to fill and smooth out need to find some filler, will be checking the blogs to see if there is any type recommended. I will be having eye surgery this coming Wednesday so there will be a lag in building.
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Old Feb 20, 2012, 08:04 AM
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Sig Kougar II E conversion coming along
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Old Feb 20, 2012, 09:20 AM
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Hey ZZcutter that looks great, very nice, may I ask what you covered it with? I am unsure of what color scheme I will be using but that is a long way down the road yet.
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Old Feb 20, 2012, 05:48 PM
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Thanks for the good words. I used Monocoat seemed to work ok most of my recent builds have been tissued. I am not sure exactly what pattern I am doing the wings but when i get them done i will post more pictures take care and I will keep watching.
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Old Feb 20, 2012, 05:58 PM
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I will be watching! I do know about the tissue just finished a baby bee a little while ago been waiting for some nicer weather to maiden it. Lots of hanger rash dealing with the tissue.
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Old Feb 28, 2012, 10:30 PM
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Still here. my eye surgery went okay but am still recovering so no further building has taken place. Have decided to leave the rudder and elevator flat so I will be marking and drilling for the hinge pins. After that is sanding but I will have to wait so that I don't get balsa dust near my eyes. This waiting is frustrating!
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Old Feb 29, 2012, 02:30 PM
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Glad to hear it came out ok looking forward to the build.
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Old Mar 12, 2012, 10:37 PM
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I am back, it appears that my cornea was swollen and abraded so I was out of action for awhile. I have an eye Doctor appointment on Thursday and I hope that the problem is cured then. Didn't realize there was so many different kinds of eye drops (with color coded caps) and ointments
Back to the build, I put on safety goggles and a dust mask and got to work on the cowling. Filled in the seams between the front and cheeks with bondo and some other ,major places that were uneven. Sanded the whole thing down with about 3 - 120 grit sanding belts. Later on will have to use some 220 and 400 grit on it. I did notice some small places that need filling I don't want to particularly mix up more bondo to fill them, anyone out there have some ideas for filling small dings in fiberglass? I cut the holes for cooling air but have not cut the propeller shaft hole yet. I will do that when I have the fuselage front shaped more so I will be able to see where the cowling fits with the motor installed.
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Old Mar 13, 2012, 05:54 PM
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Now for drilling the horizontal stab, fin, elevator and rudder for the Robart hinge pins. I noticed in some other posts about people shying away from this task. I will outline how I do it, but be aware that this is what I have found has worked for me, there are probably many other ways of accomplishing the same thing so use what you are comfortable with. By the same token I am always on the lookout for anything to make my life easier so suggest away!
1. The first picture shows the horizontal stab and elevator clamped together and supported upright.
2. The second picture shows the ruler in position to measure the points for the hinge pins. Why the measurements, back when I constructed the horizontal stab I added blocks for the hinge pins. I now want to center the holes in those blocks.
3.The third picture shows the marks made with a square across both surfaces.
4. the next picture shows the Robart drill guide clamped to the surface, notice I remove the round drill guide and centered the empty guide over the mark.
5. The next picture shows the correct drill guide installed and I looked in to verify the centering of the mark. I do it this way as once in the past before I centered it without the drill guide installed, I thought I was aligning to the mark and found out after I had drilled I had alined to a grain mark in the wood. So by aligning without the drill guide first I know that what I see in the drill guide hole is the actual mark that I made! Hope this makes sense.
6. Hole drilled using a pin vise! I do not recommend using any kind of motor tool as it would be very easy to move the guide or not get a clean hole. Granted if you are drilling hard wood it will take a while but I feel more comfortable that the hole will be drilled square and at the correct place if drilled by hand.
7. With the drill guide and the length of the drill bit it is probable that the hole is not deep enough for the hinge pin. Using the hinge pin as a guide I marked the drill bit for the proper length and go back and drill the holes to the correct depth.
8. The Robart Hinge pin at the knuckle area needs to have a 7/32" diameter opening. The fourth step on my step drill just so happens to be this diameter so I ream out all of the holes using the step drill up to the fifth step.
9. The Horizontal stab, elevator, fin and rudder all drilled for the Robart hinge pins.
One other thing that I did but did not show in the pictures was to mark one one of the elevator and horizontal stab so that I would not flip it end for end. At this point I will do no more with the hinging as the actual installing will come after the surfaces are covered. Note also I do not shape the elevators leading edge before drilling the holes I find working on the flat surface easier. Also I will be measuring and adding a hardwood dowel at the location of the control horn and again measuring from the flat edge will be more accurate.
The next steps will be to round the leading edges of the horizontal stab and fin and prepare the fuselage for installing them.
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Old Mar 15, 2012, 09:53 PM
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Got a good report card from the eye Doctor so I got really busy again. The Horizontal stab, fin, elevator and rudder had the edges rounded (or possibly egg shaped never was good at getting nicely rounded edges.) Next came the checking of the horizontal stab alignment. First I found the center of the horizontal stab and marked it, then I made two marks on each side of the center line representing the width of the fin. Using a precision square I next extended the lines along the top surface of the horizontal stab. Using these markings when I set the horizontal stab on the fuselage insured that I had the horizontal stab centered left to right, In the first photo you can see that I clamped the fuselage in the jig just to hold it solidly in position. Then I took the angle gauge and set it to zero degrees along the thrust line. Next photo shows the angle gauge on the horizontal stab indicating an angle of 0.2 degrees. I am happy with this angle as it is close enough to zero for my satisfaction. Next I set the angle gauge to zero degrees across the fuselage, then moved the gauge to the horizontal stab and verified that it also was zero degrees, this time about 0.1 degrees again I am satisfied with the results. Next I took a 1/8" square 48" long hardwood piece that I have and drilled a small hole near one end into this hole I forced a T pin and drilling a small hole in the forward strut mount centered across the width of the fuselage I made a story board. Using this I verified the horizontal stab was perpendicular to the fuselage. Next I added a couple of index marks to reference when I glued the horizontal stab in position later. (Of course I cheated and had everything sanded to obtain the zero degrees both in incidence and horizontally before I took the pictures!) Next I glued the stab onto the horizontal stab with epoxy and had the fin clamped to a square while the glue set. Next the horizontal stab/fin assembly was epoxied clamped and weighted to the fuselage.
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Old Mar 16, 2012, 10:00 PM
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I discovered that I goofed! I was supposed to add the F4A, F5, F6 and F7 formers and 1/8" side pieces before gluing the horizontal stab/fin on. Oh well have to work around it no big disaster I hope. Don't want to try to remove the horizontal stab as I used epoxy to glue it down!
So I proceeded full steam ahead and positioned the above mentioned formers without glue. YUCK! Nothing looked proper, so first I drew an 1.8" line along the fuselage sides. then I noticed that former F4A was about 3/32" to wide, a little trimming and sanding fixed that problem. Former F5 was 3/16" of an inch to wide trimmed and sanded to the correct size. Former f6 was and 1/8" to narrow so I cut a new F6 but when I positioned it I discovered that it was 1/8" to tall, so I sanded until the tops of F4A - F5 and F6 all lined up nicely. Then I looked at F7 all I can say that it was correct in width but about 1/2" to tall! Trimming and sanding brought it to the correct height. See the first picture with all the formers setting in place and the yardstick touching the tops! Now I glued the formers in place and waited from the glue to set. Now I took the top piece and sanded to fit around the fin. Now I cut and glued one side down using the 1/8" sheet, shown in the second picture. How I marked the side for cutting is first I pined the side sheet into place and then clamped a yardstick to the side just resting on the tops of the formers. I used a pencil to make along the bottom of the yard stick on the side piece then removed it and set it down on my bench. (Note that it is quite cluttered at the moment.) Now measuring up 1/8" from the marked line is the point that I will cut at. I am not sure if you can see the markings in the fourth picture though.The final picture shows the second side glued and pinned.
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Old Mar 16, 2012, 10:02 PM
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Hey guys let me know am I getting to carried away with details here?
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Old Mar 17, 2012, 09:03 PM
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No you not looking good
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