Originally Posted by 6L6Amp

You can ship the brownies to me ahead of time. I promise I'll take at least half of them to Huckfest.

Glad to hear you're coming...

Originally Posted by bobby808813

happy to help .heres that throttle geometry thing i was talking about .i used this when i setup my 104 came out perfect no throttle curve needed

I can see how this would work well...as my more "LINEAR" linkage requires a significant amount of "CURVE" introduced on the radio to soften the bottom 3/4 of the stick on my 120's. I will comment though that there is one think on your setup worth explaining well to new-users that have not got a lot of experience with throttle-linkage setups......

In your diagram, the IDLE setting of the carb has the throttle arm at 0-deg, pointed all the way forward...at this particular point, any movement of the throttle servo arm...in EITHER direction will OPEN the carb...so there's NO way to close the carb a little more...to lower the idle if it's high.....without mechanically adjusting the length of the control-rod. For this reason, I choose to never set up my linkage so the arm has to be ALL the way forward at idle...that way, there's always a LITTLE room to close the carb linkage slightly if required to lower the idle with a simple trim adjustment on the TX.....

If you meant to have the diagram indicate that the throttle is FULLY closed at the ZERO angle (forward) on the servo....then I agree completely with your diagram working well.....but that's pretty easy for someone to get confused with having the IDLE setting at zero degrees on the servo...so I thought it was worth a little explanation.

Truth is...for me...with today's THROTTLE CURVE adjustments in almost all medium to high-end radios....there's little need to worry about linkage adjustment....just make sure it's solid and won't have any binding...then adjust with software until it has the right FEEL for you.

I just didn't want to miss the chance to compliment you on a great diagram....while at the same time suggesting that you don't HAVE to be perfect on your geometry if you are willing to do a little trial-and-error programming in the radio....so people that are geometry-challenged don't get scared away from gas....

Nice diagram....for sure.

(for those that are curious and maybe not experienced in gassers........the purpose of using a throttle-curve or selecting this linkage geometry is to calm down the power on the bottom half of the stick travel.......normally, the motors we run.....30cc, 55cc, 120cc...etc....they all HIT hard with a lot of power early and if you don't do something to TAME the low-end of the throttle stick....it's easy to have your plane hover at 1/4 stick travel...so most of us tame the bottom part of the stick travel and push the throttle-advancement higher in the stick travel to smooth out the power feel for the pilot.)

Originally Posted by jsmith285

Sears has there micro torque wrench on sale this week. For any of you that want to actually properly torque your prop bolts. 36$

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...&blockType=G22

This is a GREAT deal!!! I paid full price at $80 for mine.....(OK, I used christmas-gift cards....but anyway....)

If you have a gasser....especially 100cc or larger....but even 60cc, 55cc, or 50cc.....

BUY a torque wrench for tightening the prop bolts...it takes the guesswork out of it and will prevent broken prop-bolts when you use it to regularly check things out and force yourself to consistently tighten the prop bolts correctly.....I use 70 to 80 inch-pounds of torque for prop bolts on 120cc engines....70 in-lb for wood props that crush some....80in-lb for carbon props that can take a little more. Rumor has it long-long-ago that I read 80-in-lb was suggested by DA.....or at least I believe this is what I read one time in a post by Pistolera.....when I was learning about proper methods of building my 100cc birds.....

Originally Posted by plank420

Coming down from the kool aid buzz. That will never happen to me I can stop anytime I want

me too! I can stop whenever i want... it's the starting back up that i cant control

bivens...the dx7 doesnt have throttle curve in airplane mode

You'd have to go to help mode for that. Can be done, but it's a bit trickier.

Help mode...??

Originally Posted by Bivens

Help mode...??

heli but you probably need help if you go into heli mode

not enough mixes in heli mode to make the plane work

I have 2 right wings and one left wing for an original red scheme 42 slick. One of the right wings is new in the bag. The other two are in great shape except the right one's wing tube stopper inside has broken loose, other than that it's in perfect shape.

If anyone is in need of these just shoot me a pm.

Joe

[QUOTE=Bivens;20851024]Glad to hear you're coming...



I can see how this would work well...as my more "LINEAR" linkage requires a significant amount of "CURVE" introduced on the radio to soften the bottom 3/4 of the stick on my 120's. I will comment though that there is one think on your setup worth explaining well to new-users that have not got a lot of experience with throttle-linkage setups......

In your diagram, the IDLE setting of the carb has the throttle arm at 0-deg, pointed all the way forward...at this particular point, any movement of the throttle servo arm...in EITHER direction will OPEN the carb...so there's NO way to close the carb a little more...to lower the idle if it's high.....without mechanically adjusting the length of the control-rod. For this reason, I choose to never set up my linkage so the arm has to be ALL the way forward at idle...that way, there's always a LITTLE room to close the carb linkage slightly if required to lower the idle with a simple trim adjustment on the TX.....

If you meant to have the diagram indicate that the throttle is FULLY closed at the ZERO angle (forward) on the servo....then I agree completely with your diagram working well.....but that's pretty easy for someone to get confused with having the IDLE setting at zero degrees on the servo...so I thought it was worth a little explanation.

Truth is...for me...with today's THROTTLE CURVE adjustments in almost all medium to high-end radios....there's little need to worry about linkage adjustment....just make sure it's solid and won't have any binding...then adjust with software until it has the right FEEL for you.

I just didn't want to miss the chance to compliment you on a great diagram....while at the same time suggesting that you don't HAVE to be perfect on your geometry if you are willing to do a little trial-and-error programming in the radio....so people that are geometry-challenged don't get scared away from gas....

Nice diagram....for sure.

(for those that are curious and maybe not experienced in gassers........the purpose of using a throttle-curve or selecting this linkage geometry is to calm down the power on the bottom half of the stick travel.......normally, the motors we run.....30cc, 55cc, 120cc...etc....they all HIT hard with a lot of power early and if you don't do something to TAME the low-end of the throttle stick....it's easy to have your plane hover at 1/4 stick travel...so most of us tame the bottom part of the stick travel and push the throttle-advancement higher in the stick travel to smooth out the power feel for the pilot.)



thank you but i cant take the credit when i first setup my 104 a friend helped with the throttle he told me to match the servo arm with the control arm on the carb and i ended up with a real touchy da 120 . i asked some questions on the da 120 thread and someone emailed me that diagram i only used it as a guide .i set mine up with the butterfly closed used a .75 arm and got my endpoint 140 both ways .i was thinking the same thing when i looked at the diagram hes starting at idle im assuming so he could get all the travel possible out of the servo

i checked out joes flylow3d.com site and seen hes only using a .50 servo arm on the throttle would you have to start at idle or not have the butterfly open all the way with that small of a arm

Originally Posted by brathanke

Had a great day at the flyin today. I took my 51 slick and 48 edge and flew around 20 packs. There were some really sweet giant scale planes and 3d flying was alive and well. Of course the 3d planes were still a small minority. I was happy though because in general it is pretty accepted and lots of guys had plenty of respect for the guys throwing down.

Here are some pics. They aren't as good as some I've seen here but I'm below amateur at photography.

Nice weather. Looks like a nice time. This photo is Crazychris's old 119'' 330sc.
Scott up in Grand Junction has it now. Tell Scott to Huck it!


Cory

Thanks for pointing me to the big sale at Sears this weekend! I just got an insane deal on a new tool set that I desperately needed!!

I've got an elevator that's slightly warped. It's causing mild roll issues when rapidly changing pitch and I'd like to get it ironed out (literally) if possible. So I was planning on using my heat gun to heat up the surface while slowly bending the wood.

What's the best way to do this? I'm concerned about burning the covering while doing this...

Originally Posted by turnerm

I've got an elevator that's slightly warped. It's causing mild roll issues when rapidly changing pitch and I'd like to get it ironed out (literally) if possible. So I was planning on using my heat gun to heat up the surface while slowly bending the wood.

What's the best way to do this? I'm concerned about burning the covering while doing this...

Twist the surface slightly passed where you want it then use the heat gun to get rid of the wrinkles.

Originally Posted by skippy78

Twist the surface slightly passed where you want it then use the heat gun to get rid of the wrinkles.

Oh, OK. So I don't use the heat to get the surface ready for bending?? I just bend it cold and then use the heat gun to iron the wrinkles out?