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Old Oct 11, 2003, 01:21 PM
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How to clean balck/ brown dirt off engine?

Hi. I've managed to clean most of my engine, but there is some dirt that I just CAN NOT get off. It looks like it might be dirt that got burned onto the engine. It's on the muffler and heat sink. How do I get it off???

Thanx

Erez
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Old Oct 11, 2003, 05:37 PM
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Most engines after a lot of use (and insufficient cleaning after use) develop this and it's not easy to get rid of, as you've found.

There are various ways, but many involve dismantling the motor and using an assortment of engine cleaners. If it's not causing any difficulty, leave well alone until you have some reason to take it apart.Soaking in kerosene or even acetone followed a stiff toothbrush gets most off (acetone will attack the toothbrush so use an alternative to a plastic brush). Also carburettor cleaner will do it but as it's mildly acidic it needs to be thoroughly cleaned off afterwards - don't let it come into contact with your skin!

Really stubborn varnish deposits involves boiling the parts in a pan with water detergents., then scrubbing off when it's softened.

Tony
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Old Oct 11, 2003, 06:19 PM
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Here is the best way to do it.

Go get a cheap small crock pot from walmart. Mark it as soon as you buy it - "Poison do not use for cooking food" (or something like that)

Disassemble motor fill will anitfreeze and cook it for 24-48 hours on low. Make sure there is no plastic in the pot! (Carb etc). Use a used toothbrush and clean it - the carbon (that is what it is not dirt) will be gummy and it will come off.

Mike
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Old Oct 11, 2003, 06:21 PM
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By the way I don't put my bearings in this mix. Just the outside shell of the motor muffler.
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Old Oct 12, 2003, 12:04 AM
-=Futaba RuLEz=-
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Cool. Thanx Tonyo and pda4you. I think I'll use the soaking in acetone idea. My engine is really a mess and I feal embarrased whenever I fly somewhere new.... I managed to clean most of the engine without dismantling it, so appart from the muffler and heat sink, it finally looks brand new!
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Old Oct 12, 2003, 03:01 AM
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Obviously the 'muffler' can easily be removed for cleaning in any way you want. If the rest of the gunge is only on the top of the cylinder head, that too can usually be removed if you are careful.

First, remove the plug and its washer and keep them somewhere safe away from dust and dirt. There will be some sort of gasket between the head and crankcase so that needs to be removed without damage. That's the hard part as the edges are likely to be stuck down by the varnish deposits. The worst case is when part is stuck to the head and part to the crankcase. If it can't be teased away it needs replacing - a new gasket set for that engine would be the only sensible course for you to take.
Before you remove the head, carefully scratch a mark where the head and crankcase meet (at the rear is less conspicuous) so that it can be replaced by lining up the marks. Remove the screws only by using the correct driver/key. Do it as follows.

Slacken, but don't remove the screws opposite each other - ie. the front and back, then the left side-front and right side-rear then the last two. That relieves the uneven strain on the crankcase and head. Remove the screws and lift off the head. Try not to twist it as the cylinder liner must not be disturbed - it's been running well, is bedded in and you can ruin a good engine by twisting it even slightly. If you have to take it out any time, mark its position before you move it. Mark anything you remove before you do it but not on any rotating or moving surface.

Do whatever cleaning you need then carefully reassamble in the reverse of the above.

If you have an old motor you can't use, or know someone else who has (broken mounting lugs/broken intake etc), do a trial run first on that. Once you are familiar with the parts and how they go together (and come apart) you are less likely to wreck something of value.

Tony
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Old Oct 12, 2003, 09:39 AM
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FYI

Antifreeze in an old crockpot works great !!!!!! Been there, done that.

Old_dude AMA 213751
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Old Oct 13, 2003, 08:27 AM
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Hi Tonyo. I forgot to ask.... How long should I soak the muffler in the acetone?
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Old Oct 13, 2003, 08:48 AM
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30 minutes should see it softened enough to clean off with a stiff brush (on aluminium type metals you need something softer than the metal you're cleaning so you don't destroy the original finish)

I bought a selection of wood handled brushes at a model engineering exhibition - there is one each of very stiff plastic, one of steel and one of brass bristles. They seem to cover most needs and I've used them for about 5 years now - they cost next to nothing - about one pound sterling I think.
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Old Oct 13, 2003, 08:59 AM
The original Flying Pigs Sqd.
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Thanx Tonyo. This week I hope to have enough time to get it done
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Old Oct 13, 2003, 09:00 AM
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oops... I posted in up&aways name by mistake...
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Old Oct 13, 2003, 10:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by t_predator90
oops... I posted in up&aways name by mistake...
Yeah, I was wondering why I suddenly was subscribed to a slimer thread!

Rene.
He who must be obeyed...
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Old Oct 13, 2003, 10:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by Up&Away
Yeah, I was wondering why I suddenly was subscribed to a slimer thread!

Rene.
He who must be obeyed...
Hey, you've posted in MY name lots of times....
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Old Oct 21, 2003, 09:48 AM
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Save a lot of stripdown, there used to be a product called "Z-Best
Engine cleaner" on market. I bought some, it worked great, just brush on, leave for an hour or so then rinse off with cold water, whilst scrubbing with old toothbrush. It looked like, smelled like &
burned skin just like "Polystrippa" paint brush cleaner. I've not tried using it, but I,ll bet it' s darn near the same stuff.I have seen stuff called Demon or Devil something advertised in mags.
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Old Oct 21, 2003, 11:10 AM
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I have and have used "Z-Best" engine cleaner. It works but has one MAJOR drawback..... it removes the anodizing finish that most / a lot of engines have..... looks ugly. The label on the can warns not to use on anodized finishes. (It is powerful stuff !!)

old_dude
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