|Feb 01, 2012, 03:22 PM|
Fiddlersgreen Tissue on Foam
Most are aware of the wonderful card models at Fiddlersgreen.net and many have built full fuse, flying versions of the same. Fiddlersgreen (FG) aircraft have a certain look and feel that I find nostalgic and have build a few paper ones myself. I have always wanted to make one fly. I am aware that this is not a new idea. Many have done it already in various sizes and using the FG plans in various ways as well.
I wanted to examine enlarging FG to around a 24” to 29” wing span. Why that range? Since the wing span is usually the longest dimension of an aircraft, I choose 24” to 29” because I have become quite proficient in printing out on 13”X30” size tissue paper.
The tissue could then be glued onto 2mm or 1mm foam, in my case Depron, depending on the part in question. The idea would be to cut out the plans and foam together and build a full fuse model similar to the way one would build a regular Fiddlersgreen paper model.
With that introduction, I have moved this to a build thread to allow more participation. It is now located here:
|Feb 02, 2012, 10:04 AM|
Enlarged Paper Airplane Planes - Build with Foam
Sounds like a good project. I have been collecting Fiddler's Green plans and from other sources. I tend to want to go bigger and it sounds like you might have a way to do so. Thanks for sharing.
|Feb 02, 2012, 01:42 PM|
I may have to re-define "bigger" I chose 24 to 29 inches because of the maximum page size I could print on. I have had a few conversations on wing loading and cubic loading and may have to start thinking about the 40" range! Gonna try a 24" first.
|Feb 06, 2012, 03:15 PM|
Rasterize's build thread is at:
Here are some random notes I've collected over the years on fiddler's green planes:
rc: b-17 fg
the 9x7 3 bladed props are scale. it about a 6'6" wing span. I found the 350's to be under powered on the 2 cell li pollys. I ended up going with the 400's- "e" gearing and 3 cell lipos. flew nice.
his should answer some of your questions:
Wing Area: 390" Sq.
Weight: 8.5 oz so far (including all flying surfaces) http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...r+s+green+p+47
Prop clearance: I think I can swing a 3 blade 6" prop, I just need to figure out wich one, Master Airscrew makes a 6x4 electric prop I think. The only issue I have and I don't know if it will make any difference (I assume it will) is the props will overlap each other by about 1/2" in the middle. Can anyone help there?
Any motor help at this point would be good too - if we know the props are 6x4 3 blade and that my bird will be about 15 oz empty - I would like to go brushed (so I only need one esc) and would like to run on lipos.
Ultracote or econocote covering film.. Ultracote has a chrome that looks great and rub it with a scrubby pad and it gets the brushed aluminum look to it
After depapering the Sturdy Board with the usual water soak/hose spray technique and getting some Depron USA 3mm Depron, I was off and running. Used the 5mm Sturdy Board for the single surface under cambered wing and the tail surfaces, with the Depron for the fuselage. Found that the SB would easily take the bend for the wing section, and hot-gunned it to final shape. Fuselage does not have any formers, other than the motor mounting bulkhead (foam/thin ply sandwich). Used Peteâ€™s approach of pushrod elevator and pull-pull ailerons (hardest part of the entire build), packing tape reinforcement of wing leading edge, strapping tape on lower wing, and bamboo skewer lower-surface spars. Wing is surprisingly rigid. Also used a separate cowl/motor setup, held on with 4 rare earth magnets. Wing panels are butt-glued to the sides of the fuselage with epoxy.
vyceroy's corsair build
rc: fiddlers green conversions
post w/links to much info
----- End of Memo -----
rc: fiddler's green plans - sizing
Jason: Gene raises a very good point here. The FG models are scale. Our models (RC) work at lower speeds and Reynolds numbers, and scale tail feathers usually are kinda small for proper control. The trick here is to blow them up 10-20% larger, keeping the scale outlines of course. Only a complete purist will object - or even notice - this bit of "cheating".
The thing I noticed here is what seems to be the thickness of the wing - man that sucker looks fat. Can you get a side shot showing the airfoil profile? This might be a case of smaller (thinner) is better. A proper Clark Y 'foil is about 11% thick. Don't forget that in this case you would need to remove close to 1/2" from the ribs to follow the proper airfoil. You can use Profili for free, and tell it what thickness of skin you are using, and it will generate the proper 'foil for you. http://www.profili2.com/
----- End of Memo -----
And finally, my started, but not finished FG FW-190 build.
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