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Old Feb 01, 2012, 06:29 AM
Eugene
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Australia, VIC, Delacombe
Joined Oct 2006
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Mini-HowTo
How to setup the DH9116

DH9116 Swashplate Level and Link Adjust Mini-HowTo / Posted by stormforce / Today @ 09:56 PM / 38 Views / 0 Comments / Reply
Factory lengths for both servo linkages. To increase in length, turn clockwise (left). To decrease in length, turn anti or counter-clockwise (right).

The longest linkage with the outside (O.D) points of a digital vernier caliper should be 36mm (exactly 36.61mm), and with the inside (I.D) points of a digital vernier caliper the total overall length is 42mm (exactly 41.59mm)

The shortest linkage with the outside (O.D) points of a digital vernier caliper should be 26mm (exactly 26.32mm), and with the inside (I.D) points of a digital vernier caliper the total overall length is 32mm (exactly 31.21mm).



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The basic mechanical trimming up of the swashplate is as follows;

Remove the canopy and find the plugs to the tail motor and main motor on the pcb and pull them out (making note of where they go), therefore disconnecting both the motors from the heli's battery power source. Connect the battery to the heli, turn on your tx and switch on / power up the heli and allow the heli to bind or sync with the tx, the servo's should flutter when it is bound. Centre all the trims on the sticks on the TX and center all the sticks.

Place the heli on a level surface and in a position, so you can see it comfortably, you are going to be doing this for 20 minutes or so. Make sure all the blades are in their shortest throw positions and the balance bar is level (a small line level fixed to the balance bar is perfect for achieving this). Look at the swashplate and ascertain if the top plate of the swash is at right angles or perpendicular to the main shaft. I find putting a long thin knitting needle or bamboo "satay" skewer stick on the top plate exaggerates the angle and makes it more obvious. I have found to draw a thick horizontal and vertical line in the shape of a "+" on an "A4" sheet of paper, then temporaily position it on a wall (making sure it is perfectly horizontally and vertically level before you fix it) behind the heli to use as reference marks.

We want to focus on the forward / backward drift at this stage, so focus on that, not any side drift. Adjust both servo linkages until the swashplate is level along the length of the helicopter, re-attach the linkages to the swashplate, and re-connect the tail and main motors and re-attach the canopy, then test fly. You should have an ever so slight forward bias as it takes off, like a forward drift. If not, adjust both linkages one half turn at a time until you do (test fly after each adjustment). If you find each successive adjustment is in a middle point between forward and backwards, adjust it for forward bias and then use the trims on the sticks to get it hovering perfectly and balanced.

When you have it trimmed to compensate for forward and backward drift, make a note of any side drift. If it is drifting to the left, the right servo link is too high, if it is drifting to the right, the left servo link is too high. There may be only one full or half turns to the link to bring it back, if the drift is severe, maybe it needs more turns, adjust the link one half turn at a time and test hover after each adjustment until the drift is close to being eliminated, if you find you can't get it perfect, fine tune with the tx stick trims, as required.

This must be done on a perfectly calm day or indoors well away from walls etc, like a large shed or gym, any slight breezes will influence or over exaggerate any fine mechanical adjustments, and you will be chasing your own tail trying to get it spot on.
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DH9116 Servo Move Mod
Mini-HowTo / Posted by stormforce / Today @ 09:39 PM / 43 Views / 0 Comments / Reply
Ok, here's the fix for the servo arm link touching the canopy, and in my opinion stress flexing the servo arm.

Image one is to illustrate the need to move the whole servo over to the other side wall of the frame. The servo is usually removed by uncrewing the retaining screws, and simply pulling it out, but for this mod, I need the servo screw tabs to be on the inside, not the outside. So I removed the servo completely from the frame, glued with superglue, two small replacement nuts to the inside of the tabs, then removed enough screws and the main shaft and mounting block to allow me to slip the sevo between the two sides of the frame. After a quick alignment to estimate how much the servo is to be moved, I found a small zip tie was just wide enough to slip on the between the body of the servo and the screws, this gave me the desired adjustment I need to keep the servo in position. I apologise for the quality of the image.



Then I replaced all the parts and screws and checked the alignment of the servo arm and link with the ball on the swashplate. This is at rest, compare this image to the previous post image at rest. The left image is before, right image is after.



Once I checked everything was ok, I then switched the TX and the heli on and checked to see if the servo arm no longer flexed and link "dog leg" end was well clear of the canopy. I left the spacer under the canopy clip, as when I initially installed it, it needed longer screws, but I only had some slightly larger and longer screws that would do the job, so removing the spacer and using the old thinner screws was not possible, because of the now larger hole.

The left image is before, right image is after.



On contemplation, I should have used some thin double sided foam tape and just taped it to the other servo rather than using longer screws and nuts, as they will probably put strain on the screw tabs eventually making them weaker and not able to hold the servo in place. I'll do that now.
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DH9116 TX Menu and OEM Settings / TX Signal Loss - Re-binding the heli to the tx
Mini-HowTo / Posted by stormforce / Today @ 09:36 PM / 45 Views / 0 Comments / Reply
To re-set the transmitter back to factory settings.

Terms used within the transmitter and this blog.

TX = Transmitter

ELEV = Elevator (cyclic movement forward or backward)
AILE = Aileron (cyclic movement side to side, slide left & right)
RUDD = Rudder (to increase or decrease tail rotor thrust, spin the tail left or right)
THRO = Throttle (increase or decrease motor rpm, to raise or lower the helicopter in altitude)
D/R = Dual Rate (increase or decrease servo maximum throw)
EPA = End Point Adjustment (increase or decrease to match the servo arm movements with transmitter control stick travel)

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Note: All stick trims are to be centered, throttle stick is at it's lowest position; rocker switch is in the 'quick" position.

Switch the TX on; the battery voltage indicator shows full and the actual voltage value flashes and fluctuates; the red LED flashes and the buzzer beeps quickly 14 times quickly, then changes to a higher pitch single beep and falls silent; red LED stops flashing (this is the TX in binding mode).

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Long press of the MENU button; after 1 second the backlight glows;

MODE Flashes; 2 is visible

Press of the MENU button and ELEV SUB F flashes - 000 ("F" suddenly appears next to the RUDD TRI)

press of the SEL button, AILE SUB L flashes - 000
press of the SEL button, THRO SUB F flashes - 000
press of the SEL button, RUDD SUB L flashes - 000

press of the SEL button, back to ELEV SUB F flashes - 000

press of the MENU button, ELEV D/R - 100%

press of the SEL button, AILE D/R flashes - 100%
press of the SEL button, RUDD D/R flashes - 100%

press of the SEL button, back to ELEV D/R flashes - 100%

press of the MENU button, ELEV REV flashes - REV

press of the SEL button, AILE REV flashes - REV
press of the SEL button, THRO REV flashes - NOA
press of the SEL button, RUDD REV flashes - REV

press of the SEL button, back to ELEV REV flashes - REV

press of the MENU button, ELEV EPA flashes - 100% (RUDD TRI changes to F)

To change the F to B, move the elevator stick forward or backward to change.

press of the SEL button, AILE EPA - 100% (RUDD TRI changes to R)

To change R to L, move the aileron stick side to side.

press of the SEL button, RUDD EPA - 100% (RUDD still at R)

To change the R to L, move the rudder stick side to side.

press of the SEL button, back to ELEV EPA flashes - 100% (RUDD TRI changes back to F)

press of the MENU button, THRO TRI 0 - 000%

press of the SEL button, THRO TRI 1 - 025%
press of the SEL button, THRO TRI 2 - 050%
press of the SEL button, THRO TRI 3 - 075%
press of the SEL button, THRO TRI 4 - 100%

press of the SEL button, back to THRO TRI 0 - 000%

press of the MENU button, back to mode - 2

END OF MENU

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How to re-bind the heli to the transmitter, if the signal contact is lost.

Make sure you plug in the battery to the heli first, but leave the switch off, keep the heli within easy reach.

Grab the transmitter, and hold down the throttle stick in the throttle off position, as far as it can go (without straining or breaking the stick) with your thumb, and with your other hand switch on the transmitter, then within the first 5 seconds, while the transmitter is still flashing and beeping, quickly switch on the heli. The heli's red LED on the pcb will flash quickly.

After 15 seconds, the red LED on the transmitter will stop flashing and the transmitter will stop beeping, check to see if the heli red LED has also stopped flashing and is now a "solid" un-blinking red colour, if so, the heli is now bound to the transmitter.

Hold the heli in the palm of your hand at arms length, and give the throttle a quick throttle up, but still low enough so it doesn't shoot out of your hands and go up and hit the ceiling, if the heli spins up, all is good, if not, you'll have to go through the whole procedure again.
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