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Old Oct 17, 2012, 12:16 PM
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United States, SC, Charleston
Joined Aug 2011
578 Posts
I just checked online and the specs say both the DX5e and standard DX7 have the same 1024 bit resolution. Strange to me.

That means there are other aspects of the tx designs that give the DX7 such better feel and control. I yield to pilots with more detailed knowledge here. I just know that I could feel a dramatic difference between the two ...which is why I upgraded several years ago.

I totally agree with IndyMatt: "Once you know you are going to be in the hobby long term, buy the best radio that you can afford." It's the best favor you can do for you...and for the planes in your hangar!

Tom
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Old Oct 17, 2012, 12:25 PM
when down=up, up=expensive
whichwaysup's Avatar
United States, VA, Roanoke
Joined Apr 2012
2,625 Posts
Interesting read

Saw this on the Nano CPX thread just now and thought it was appropriate. Seahawk was the author of the post, and i can't say I've tried this, but it helps explain why the motors may be getting better - and potentially a way to maximize the power.

Quote from Seahawk's post:
I have a spare motor on order at the LHS, just to have as a backup. My buddy there told me that I should 'Properly' break it in. He explained to me that the brushes in the motor are not properly set to the curved commutator. And there can be a thin film of oil between the brushes and the commutator. What he suggested that I do, is connect the motor to the main board (but don't physically install it into the frame), and then place the motor in a glass of distilled water (very important to use distilled water), and run it for the length of a full battery. I thought he was crazy! I've heard of people doing this, but being an electrician for most of my life, I know that electric motors and water DO NOT MIX! But he reassured me that it was perfectly safe, just don't dump your whole helicopter in the water of course. He said what this does is that it will remove the thin film of oil between the brushes and the commutator, and allow the brushes to form around the round commutator creating a much better seating connection. And I know that's true, we did the same thing with larger motors as an electrician, we just didn't use water, we were able to get into the brushes and use sandpaper to achieve the same desired effect.

He also said that by placing the motor in distilled water it gives the motor a load, and helps keep it cool. I should also mention to run the motor at full speed for a full battery.

Again, this should remove that film of oil on the brushes, and with the brushes now fitting better to the commutator it will have a much better connection, and power output should be better as well.

When we get new motors, and you notice that it takes a few flights for it start to perform well, it's because the brushes are wearing in and starting to form around the commutator creating a better connection.

I've never done this, again, as far as I know electricity and water do not mix! But I will be trying this with my new motor tonight. I'm not going to install the motor yet though, I'm going to use stock motor until it goes dead, then I'll install the new motor. I'm just stocking up on parts to take with me out to sea.
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Old Oct 17, 2012, 12:38 PM
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United States, NC, Charlotte
Joined Jan 2007
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We were doing this with RC race cars years ago. We just used 1.5 volt battery though not high speed as in water full speed will twist wires off caution here please! Distilled water is good to use, some used mineral sprits but that does not seem safe to me. Water turns black fairly quick and these are small motors so just a few minutes should do the trick. I am a bit worried about small wires so you should strap motor to paint stick or something else to keep it from ripping wires off, water creates resistance. Also we were using motors for 7.2 volts so you may want to try variable power supply and start with 250 mv and see how that works. Have a few new SX motors on way I will do some experiments, still have the jug of distilled water with carbon on bottom of jug under my bench!
I have a dyno set up for testing motors but not for these micro motors!!
Tim

Quote:
Originally Posted by whichwaysup View Post
Saw this on the Nano CPX thread just now and thought it was appropriate. Seahawk was the author of the post, and i can't say I've tried this, but it helps explain why the motors may be getting better - and potentially a way to maximize the power.

Quote from Seahawk's post:
I have a spare motor on order at the LHS, just to have as a backup. My buddy there told me that I should 'Properly' break it in. He explained to me that the brushes in the motor are not properly set to the curved commutator. And there can be a thin film of oil between the brushes and the commutator. What he suggested that I do, is connect the motor to the main board (but don't physically install it into the frame), and then place the motor in a glass of distilled water (very important to use distilled water), and run it for the length of a full battery. I thought he was crazy! I've heard of people doing this, but being an electrician for most of my life, I know that electric motors and water DO NOT MIX! But he reassured me that it was perfectly safe, just don't dump your whole helicopter in the water of course. He said what this does is that it will remove the thin film of oil between the brushes and the commutator, and allow the brushes to form around the round commutator creating a much better seating connection. And I know that's true, we did the same thing with larger motors as an electrician, we just didn't use water, we were able to get into the brushes and use sandpaper to achieve the same desired effect.

He also said that by placing the motor in distilled water it gives the motor a load, and helps keep it cool. I should also mention to run the motor at full speed for a full battery.

Again, this should remove that film of oil on the brushes, and with the brushes now fitting better to the commutator it will have a much better connection, and power output should be better as well.

When we get new motors, and you notice that it takes a few flights for it start to perform well, it's because the brushes are wearing in and starting to form around the commutator creating a better connection.

I've never done this, again, as far as I know electricity and water do not mix! But I will be trying this with my new motor tonight. I'm not going to install the motor yet though, I'm going to use stock motor until it goes dead, then I'll install the new motor. I'm just stocking up on parts to take with me out to sea.
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Old Oct 17, 2012, 12:42 PM
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Indianapolis, IN
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Yep heard of that before as well, supposedly it can shorten the life of the motor overall though.
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Old Oct 17, 2012, 01:50 PM
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United Kingdom, Yeadon
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I suppose seating the brushes properly will wear them out a bit...
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Old Oct 17, 2012, 02:32 PM
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Well the Spitfire is grounded once more. I took it out for what I thought would be a great day of flying with six batteries on hand. All controls working fine while checking them out in the house. Took a little walk to the ballpark and checked everything once more. This is going to be fun! It turned into a 1 second flight. Right out of my hand and it banked right into the grass. Like before, the rudder is turned with no response. I cut open the tape to look inside and see if the control rod or silicone had broken. Everything is intact and a rebinding did no good. I feel like chucking it in the trash or backing over it with the truck just to get it out of my mind.








j/k
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Old Oct 17, 2012, 02:40 PM
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United States, AZ, Yuma
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on the subject of motor break-in...
that is old school advise. not saying its bad, but it was in a time when brushes were made of carbon. the 6,7 and i belive 8mm coreless motors have copper brushes, so the advise may not be valid.

as for water and motors, coreless motors run fine under water. how long is anyones guess. the problem is the dissolved solids (i.e. minerals) that cause shorts. pure distilled (not R.O. or flitered) water is not conductive at all.

what evey you do, make sure to dry the motor.
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Old Oct 17, 2012, 02:44 PM
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United States, CO, Longmont
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nemoskull View Post
on the subject of motor break-in...
that is old school advise. not saying its bad, but it was in a time when brushes were made of carbon. the 6,7 and i belive 8mm coreless motors have copper brushes, so the advise may not be valid.


as for water and motors, coreless motors run fine under water. how long is anyones guess. the problem is the dissolved solids (i.e. minerals) that cause shorts. pure distilled (not R.O. or flitered) water is not conductive at all.

what evey you do, make sure to dry the motor.
agreed
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Old Oct 17, 2012, 02:48 PM
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United States, CO, Longmont
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Quote:
Originally Posted by w4yn View Post
Flew Spit for its 8 or so flight last night. I can say for sure that the motor is gaining in force after breaking in a bit. Nice full slow loops from 1/2-3/4 throttle.
Will do 2-3 slow verticle rolls with full throttle before verticle stall.
This is also the best rolling UM warbird to date, have them all. Beast is the best UM I have but the Spit is by far the best handling UM warbird in this size range.
It just keeps getting better with more flights, BTW I am using 190MA MA cell.
JM3CW Tim
I call bull on this one as most can't pull off a nice slow full loop at WOT
and at only 1/2 to 3/4 throttle would be most impossible to say the least unless we fly into the wind.. and when I fly my Spit into the wind I can do nice loops
half throttle this plane has a nice scale crawl to it.. looks damn cool
loop it and it will fall out of the sky at that speed for mine.. and I have 20 plus flights on mine
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Last edited by brushless55; Oct 17, 2012 at 02:54 PM.
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Old Oct 17, 2012, 03:05 PM
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Indianapolis, IN
Joined Oct 2010
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Contact Horizon and state that your rudder servo is unresponsive or faulty. They should take care of you.

Quote:
Originally Posted by JudahBenHur View Post
Well the Spitfire is grounded once more. I took it out for what I thought would be a great day of flying with six batteries on hand. All controls working fine while checking them out in the house. Took a little walk to the ballpark and checked everything once more. This is going to be fun! It turned into a 1 second flight. Right out of my hand and it banked right into the grass. Like before, the rudder is turned with no response. I cut open the tape to look inside and see if the control rod or silicone had broken. Everything is intact and a rebinding did no good. I feel like chucking it in the trash or backing over it with the truck just to get it out of my mind.








j/k
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Old Oct 17, 2012, 03:05 PM
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USA, MD, Annapolis
Joined Feb 2005
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You will be wasting your time running these small pager motors in water. The brushes are not carbon and will not "break in" as we used to do with older race car motors. Don't believe me, take one of these motors apart. Run a new motor gently for a few minutes to clean the brushes and commutator and then go fly...
Gary
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Old Oct 17, 2012, 07:30 PM
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United States, NC, Charlotte
Joined Jan 2007
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Flew in absolute calm this evening, same as before, 3/4 throttle is all I need for nice open loops. Maybe your throttle end point is different, at wide open it is very fast IMHO.
Tim
Quote:
Originally Posted by brushless55 View Post
I call bull on this one as most can't pull off a nice slow full loop at WOT
and at only 1/2 to 3/4 throttle would be most impossible to say the least unless we fly into the wind.. and when I fly my Spit into the wind I can do nice loops
half throttle this plane has a nice scale crawl to it.. looks damn cool
loop it and it will fall out of the sky at that speed for mine.. and I have 20 plus flights on mine
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Old Oct 17, 2012, 07:33 PM
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United States, CO, Longmont
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Quote:
Originally Posted by w4yn View Post
Flew in absolute calm this evening, same as before, 3/4 throttle is all I need for nice open loops. Maybe your throttle end point is different, at wide open it is very fast IMHO.
Tim
LOL!
my EPA is 100%
like what was said I stand behind
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Old Oct 17, 2012, 08:59 PM
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United States, CA, Foster City
Joined Nov 2011
212 Posts
My prop spinner is crooked/wobbly

The prop seems fine but the spinner is way off. Any one here know if I can just pull it off and re-glue it on correctly? It's not a big deal and I really love this plane in slight wind but would enjoy a "true" spinning mass.
Brian
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Old Oct 17, 2012, 09:01 PM
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Indianapolis, IN
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Yep just yank it off and reposition it, just go slow and it will be fine.
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