Originally Posted by Denile

What do you mean by have to hold the roller down to program; the push in functions to select then release pressure and use the roller to adjust settings. Something is not right if you have to hold the roller down to program!!.

When programing the DX6I you have to hold the roller down or it goes back to the screen showing the model. If you hit the roller it goes to program the model and download mode.

When programing you hold down the roller while turning it on.

There is a lot of screens to go through when programming any model. DX7 seems easier.

I did try to fly the Cub indoors and it seems fast to fly indoors. I slowed it down and it stalled and its tough to turn with ailerons due to the amont of room required. It's more of a outdoor micro.

Chris

Originally Posted by ChrisFlysRC

When programing the DX6I you have to hold the roller down or it goes back to the screen showing the model. If you hit the roller it goes to program the model and download mode.

When programing you hold down the roller while turning it on.

Chris

The Above is completely inaccurate. Under no conditions are you required to HOLD down the roller on a DX6i.

You press the roller and release and it goes to "adjust list", If you press for >2sec and release it shortcuts to setup list, This is not necessary as you can just click it then scroll the last item on adjust list and click which takes you to setup list.

second,
The CC flies just fine indoors, even in small gyms, I fly mine in a single basketball court gym. There are many videos that show how slow and small of an area the CC can fly in.

-Brian

Originally Posted by ChrisFlysRC

......I did try to fly the Cub indoors and it seems fast to fly indoors. I slowed it down and it stalled and its tough to turn with ailerons due to the amont of room required. It's more of a outdoor micro.

Chris

Quite the opposite, actually. When properly trimmed & balanced, the CC is an excellent indoor flyer that can easily be flown in a basketball court - provided that the pilot uses proper technique, of course. As Brian noted - there are countless videos out there which prove this to be true. (Including a few of mine.) If you watched the video I posted just a few posts before yours, you would know that the CC can fly just above walking speed & still be remarkably agile. In fact, I've won a number of impromptu 'slow-fly contests' with my CC, flying against UM Champs.

First off - be sure that the plane is mechanically trimmed correctly, and be sure that it is not nose-heavy. (A 1-2mm shift in CG is very noticeable at this scale.) Use elevator to manage airspeed & use throttle to manage altitude. Use primarily rudder in the turns when flying slow, and be very gentle on the ailerons & elevator. (Of course, that's simply a given with most any plane.)

See my CC handling checklist for details on proper trimming & balancing, along with tips on flying slow & flying with the flaps extended.

Joel

Originally Posted by turboparker

Quite the opposite, actually. When properly trimmed & balanced, the CC is an excellent indoor flyer that can easily be flown in a basketball court - provided that the pilot uses proper technique, of course. As Brian noted - there are countless videos out there which prove this to be true. (Including a few of mine.) If you watched the video I posted just a few posts before yours, you would know that the CC can fly just above walking speed & still be remarkably agile. In fact, I've won a number of impromptu 'slow-fly contests' with my CC, flying against UM Champs.

First off - be sure that the plane is mechanically trimmed correctly, and be sure that it is not nose-heavy. (A 1-2mm shift in CG is very noticeable at this scale.) Use elevator to manage airspeed & use throttle to manage altitude. Use primarily rudder in the turns when flying slow, and be very gentle on the ailerons & elevator. (Of course, that's simply a given with most any plane.)

See my CC handling checklist for details on proper trimming & balancing, along with tips on flying slow & flying with the flaps extended.

Joel

How do you measure CG down to a 1-2mm accuracy? I have a UM T-28 that I'm using to shake the rust off before I fly my CC. With the T-28 there is room for some slop around the CG.

Originally Posted by Skrymir

How do you measure CG down to a 1-2mm accuracy? I have a UM T-28 that I'm using to shake the rust off before I fly my CC. With the T-28 there is room for some slop around the CG.

What I do is get it close by using two chopsticks shoved into the foam box at a slight angle and then balancing the plane on them. This gets you close. Fly the plane and observe handling. land, adjust battery, fly again, repeat. Once you've found the battery placement take a marker and mark the battery tray where the battery goes.

-Brian

Originally Posted by Skrymir

How do you measure CG down to a 1-2mm accuracy? I have a UM T-28 that I'm using to shake the rust off before I fly my CC. With the T-28 there is room for some slop around the CG.

Brian nailed it.

Joel

Hello all,

I bought myself a CC today and well... I am very happy with how it looks and its scale but there was a very slight angle (i.e. not 90deg to the fuse on either side) in the vertical stab/rudder - it seems as if it has not been installed on the fuselage properly. Now I already own 2 UMX and 1 UMX heli so I am used to flying these things, and my corsair did for a while have issues with the rudder not tracking straight but I eventually ironed that out by about an hour of tweaking back and forth with the U bend.

With the CC it seems that as I said it wasn't mated quite right onto the fuse - is there any reason why I cannot just straighten it by manipulating the joint/reinforcing with CA or is it meant to have some sort of deflection? I would assume not but I have seen planes with some sort of angle on the vertical stabilizer/rudder to counteract torque/p-factor so I am not sure if this intentional or not.

Otherwise I am sure this bird will fly nicely, just waiting for the wind to bugger off first . I also did not realise it had lights which kind of took me by surprise when I first powered it up. Hehe.

EDIT: OH and I also got some floats... really not sure if I will be using those too soon, and I'm guessing mine must be the newer version since it has the hole in the cockpit windscreen?

Loving my CC so far care you guys getting longer flight times than what the user manual says? Where is a good place to order extended batteries?

I'm not sure if this has been covered by other posts so I'll post it here anyway.

The CC comes with the AR6400 set so that CH 6 is slaved off Ch 2(Aileron) to cater for people using DX4/5 Tx's. The AR 6400 can be reprogrammed so that Ch2 and Ch 6 operate independantly. This allows you to use the Tx to mix the two channels together using the 2 aileron servo wing mix.

BIW.

Originally Posted by JetLife

Loving my CC so far care you guys getting longer flight times than what the user manual says? Where is a good place to order extended batteries?

RCBabbel here on the forums has lightened Thunderpower 325mAh packs. 10-15min flights are possible!
I get 7 min on 180mAh and 9+ on 240s.

Originally Posted by BuildItWright

I'm not sure if this has been covered by other posts so I'll post it here anyway.

The CC comes with the AR6400 set so that CH 6 is slaved off Ch 2(Aileron) to cater for people using DX4/5 Tx's. The AR 6400 can be reprogrammed so that Ch2 and Ch 6 operate independantly. This allows you to use the Tx to mix the two channels together using the 2 aileron servo wing mix.

BIW.

This is wrong, The CC does NOT come with a AR6400. It comes with a EFLU4864. This is the AS3X model similar to the old AR6410LBL. There are Major differences though!

Most importantly AS3X does NOT work on both aileron channels if you set the ch6 to not function as an internal "y"! The model will fly extremely poorly.

Second the ESCs rating was increased from 4.9 to 5.9 amps

Botton line DO NOT DO THIS!!!

-Brian

How should I be timing my flights? I was also looking at some Hyperion packs for extended flights. With the stock 180mah I have been timing 6 min and have not had any problems with that. Should I be letting it go longer?

Originally Posted by JetLife

How should I be timing my flights? I was also looking at some Hyperion packs for extended flights. With the stock 180mah I have been timing 6 min and have not had any problems with that. Should I be letting it go longer?

Flight time is primarily determined by your flying style and throttle-management skills. Fly a short, aggressive timed flight. Recharge the pack, and note how many mAh your charger put back in. To calculate depth-of-discharge, divide the number above by the pack capacity. Calculate the projected flight-time to the 80% discharge point, then set your flight-timer so that you land at or before the pack is 80% discharged.

Using throttle-management & flying the plane like a Super Cub, I get 15+ minutes to the 80% discharge point with my TP 325 65c packs & 10+ minutes with my Hyp 240s.

Joel

Thanks Turbo. So this has to be done with a digital charger I assume since there is no way I can see what the battery is discharged to otherwise. Can you recommend a charger that doesn't need a separate power supply and is reasonably priced?

I might head to Hobbbytown USA today and see if they have some 325 packs in stock.

Originally Posted by JetLife

Thanks Turbo. So this has to be done with a digital charger I assume since there is no way I can see what the battery is discharged to otherwise. Can you recommend a charger that doesn't need a separate power supply and is reasonably priced?

I might head to Hobbbytown USA today and see if they have some 325 packs in stock.

I personally use a FMA / Revolectrix Multi4 for charging my micros.
Link
The Multi4 runs on 12volts so a car battery is perfect. It also has adjustable charge rate or auto 1C,2C,or 3C rate charge. It is pretty much foolproof. It autodetects #of cells, and even can tell if the wrong chemistry is selected!

Just be sure to get the right balance board as it charges through the balance taps.

-Brian

Originally Posted by JetLife

Thanks Turbo. So this has to be done with a digital charger I assume since there is no way I can see what the battery is discharged to otherwise. Can you recommend a charger that doesn't need a separate power supply and is reasonably priced?

I might head to Hobbbytown USA today and see if they have some 325 packs in stock.

JetLife,

You're welcome! I'm always happy to help.

As Brian mentioned - the Multi4 is an excellent charger. Revolextrix chargers are well-engineered, very well-built, extremely accurate, and reliable. They also sell a compact, lightweight 12V supply that will run it at home. There are many other low-cost 12V supplies that also work well.

If you're set on a charger with built-in AC, I suggest the Thunder Power 610 AC/DC. It's also a well-engineered, well-built, extremely accurate & reliable charger. It comes with a balance-board that has Thunder Power balance connectors as well as the JST-XH balance connectors found on many other brand batteries from Align, Dynamite, E-flite, ParkZone and others. To charge the UMX packs, just pick up a UMX charge harness from RCbabbel, Glenn at RC-connectors, or HH. I highly recommend RCbabbel, as his workmanship and customer service are second-to-none. In fact, exemplary is a barely adequate description. While you're at it, check out his custom ultralight Hyperion & Thunder Power UMX packs. They're the highest-performing, longest-lasting, lightest-weight UMX packs available.

If you plan to expand your electric fleet to include larger aircraft that use 2000 mAh or larger 3-4s packs, I suggest that you pick up a decent high-current charger so that you can take advantage of the fast charge rating (5c up to 12c) of most modern, high-quality LiPos. The chargers above will charge those packs, but it will take a long time, due to the chargers' low wattage limit.

Joel