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Old Mar 05, 2013, 07:09 AM
Master of Micro Modding
valiantGLX's Avatar
Australia, SA, Burra
Joined Sep 2011
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Your soldering Iron probably isnt hot enough. Were you using a pointy tip or a flat tip? A small flat tip conducts the heat better.

Also both the wire and the soldering iron should be tinned, and a little extra solder needs to be on the soldering tip, this also helps greatly with conducting the heat.

If I were you Id clean off the glue and try again.
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Old Mar 05, 2013, 07:48 AM
Parkzone junkie
kalmon's Avatar
United States, MI, Grand Traverse
Joined Oct 2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by valiantGLX View Post
Your soldering Iron probably isnt hot enough. Were you using a pointy tip or a flat tip? A small flat tip conducts the heat better.

Also both the wire and the soldering iron should be tinned, and a little extra solder needs to be on the soldering tip, this also helps greatly with conducting the heat.

If I were you Id clean off the glue and try again.
LOL good luck getting JB weld off!! JB weld is non conductive once it sets up which is good,in this case.

ChinoDiablo:
In the future you should get some desoldering braid and remove the solder and then redo it. In this case I'm guessing that it'll work fine for you though.

-Brian
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Old Mar 05, 2013, 08:47 AM
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Canada, ON, Mississauga
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Originally Posted by aviator4934 View Post
Where are you buying the tp 70c? To my knowledge those are g8's and I can't find them anywhere!
Thunder Power announced the G8 series and 70C rating only a few days ago.
The Canadian distributor is taking pre-orders but do not have prices yet.

Horizon Hobby has not mentioned the G8 series and are still selling G6 at full list price.
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Old Mar 05, 2013, 10:29 AM
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United States, VT, Warren
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What is the umx connecter commonly referred to again? PHP3? Found a place listing the g8s in stock...
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Old Mar 05, 2013, 10:34 AM
Romans 8:34-39
bhoov128's Avatar
United States, FL, Davenport
Joined May 2012
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Originally Posted by aviator4934 View Post
What is the umx connecter commonly referred to again? PHP3? Found a place listing the g8s in stock...
JST-PH, i think.... not totally sure. PHP3 will get you a website but it's deprecated anyways
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Old Mar 05, 2013, 10:45 AM
Master of Micro Modding
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Australia, SA, Burra
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Originally Posted by aviator4934 View Post
What is the umx connecter commonly referred to again? PHP3? Found a place listing the g8s in stock...
JST-PH 3-pin
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Old Mar 05, 2013, 05:13 PM
Chef Pilot: Planes vs Butter
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United States, VA, Hamilton
Joined Jul 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by valiantGLX View Post
Your soldering Iron probably isnt hot enough. Were you using a pointy tip or a flat tip? A small flat tip conducts the heat better.

Also both the wire and the soldering iron should be tinned, and a little extra solder needs to be on the soldering tip, this also helps greatly with conducting the heat.

If I were you Id clean off the glue and try again.
I have a simple 25 watt soldering iron that has sufficed for now. The contact on the brick is small and since its holding (JB weld is amazing stuff) I'm thinking that it's on for the remaining usable life of my poor beat, taped-up, creased in 20 places ghetto Cub.
Some graffiti would look at home on her.
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Old Mar 05, 2013, 06:03 PM
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United States, TN, Jackson
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Originally Posted by kalmon View Post
LOL good luck getting JB weld off!! JB weld is non conductive once it sets up which is good,in this case.

ChinoDiablo:
In the future you should get some desoldering braid and remove the solder and then redo it. In this case I'm guessing that it'll work fine for you though.

-Brian
Ohhh---I've found that JB Weld is conductive---At least enough to measure the resistance...JB Weld is steel in the resin mixed with a non-conductive hardener...I've measured conductivity after mixing and found that the steel in JB Weld is conductive---I do glue heat sinks to the FETs on these HH bricks with JB Weld but I'm sure to not get any JB Weld on the legs of the FETs...

I also have some Devcon Alumi-Weld epoxy...It is used for the repair of aluminum "John Boats"...It, too, is conductive to a small degree due to the aluminum in the resin...

Kevin
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Old Mar 05, 2013, 07:47 PM
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Anyone try out the lightning power batts in their cubs? I'm not too familiar with the brand.
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Old Mar 05, 2013, 09:04 PM
Chef Pilot: Planes vs Butter
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Originally Posted by Kevin Greene View Post
Ohhh---I've found that JB Weld is conductive---At least enough to measure the resistance...JB Weld is steel in the resin mixed with a non-conductive hardener...I've measured conductivity after mixing and found that the steel in JB Weld is conductive---I do glue heat sinks to the FETs on these HH bricks with JB Weld but I'm sure to not get any JB Weld on the legs of the FETs...

I also have some Devcon Alumi-Weld epoxy...It is used for the repair of aluminum "John Boats"...It, too, is conductive to a small degree due to the aluminum in the resin...

Kevin
Well, Kevin,.... Time will tell. I know it works now.
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Old Mar 06, 2013, 12:05 AM
Scout CX | mCX2 | mSR | 120SR
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Canada, AB, Edmonton
Joined Dec 2011
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JB Weld is not conductive, it even says so on their website. Which is why I use it in applications where that would matter.

Quotes from around the web...


That is correct. JB weld is 50% Calicum Carbonte, 30-40% epoxy resin and only 5-10% iron powder. It is an insulator.



So I took my multi meter to a cured blob of JB Weld that I had in excess from a non saber related project and couldn't get any continuity at all when I tested various thicknesses of it

JB Weld is NOT conductive.



Taken from JB Weld's Website under FAQ's:

Q: Will J-B Weld conduct electricity?
A: No. J-B Weld is not considered to be a conductor. It is an insulator.



Nevermind...I found the technical data sheets on the web. Is is NOT
conductive after set up. It has iron filings in it, but since it is an
epoxy, it is not conductive.
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Old Mar 08, 2013, 08:46 AM
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Canada, ON, Mississauga
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I flew my CC yesterday when the wind was low and the temperature was about 2 degrees C or 36 degrees F. The snow melted a little then froze into ice with a little more snow on top.

I flew it high and low and fast and slow and looped and rolled. Then for a landing I slowed and put 45% flaps then slowed more and put 90% flaps and made a perfect landing with a slide in the snow of only a few inches.

I didn't try a takeoff in the snow because there were too many footprints all over the park from deer (the park is beside a big river).
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Old Mar 08, 2013, 05:44 PM
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Dammit! the 300mah nano techs came back in stock the other night while I was in bed, when I woke up at 7am they were already sold out, in fact -19 items.

Its total BS that hobbyking cant keep up with the supply and demand. If they sell all their stock in 2hrs, you think they'd order 10x as many batteries for the next run, but they dont I have been trying to get these batteries for months now.

Now I have given up, I just bought 100 UMX connectors from china and Im going to add then to the 300mah nanotechs with the jST connectors (uncase, remove the balance lead, the charge lead and then solder on a UMX connector)
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Old Mar 08, 2013, 06:00 PM
Romans 8:34-39
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United States, FL, Davenport
Joined May 2012
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I actually got to fly my CC tonight, at sunset, was a great time. 2 and change batteries through it, I still can't get the damned left roll out of the stupid thing. I'm starting to think that the rudder servo might not be centering properly. I have no idea what is going on with it. Anyways, my new bush tires worked amazingly well. Every landing on my dirt/sand road runway behind my house was a nose over before, and take offs were hairy unless I found a good hard part.... with the new big pillow tires it handles the loose sand easily and I had some great touch and go's tonight. Fun! Now back to the regularly scheduled wind.
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Old Mar 08, 2013, 06:25 PM
Wherever you go there you are
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Joined Nov 2011
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You're just lucky hobbyking doesn't raise the price.
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