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Old Feb 17, 2013, 12:29 PM
Romans 8:34-39
bhoov128's Avatar
United States, FL, Davenport
Joined May 2012
8,162 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kevin Greene View Post
Good repair tips!!!...I have never tried foam tac---I hear it's good stuff...the left wing has just a hairline crack as the wing didn't separate from the plane...The repair on that side is not noticeable at all...

The right wing is a different story---It was ripped from the plane and the repaired crack is more like a gash...Very noticeable...

Kevin
Quote:
Originally Posted by RCBABBEL View Post
Kevin,

I'll bet money that's the real problem.
.
.
.
.
Foam-Tac.
Good stuff!
http://www.filadelfosrc.com/index.ph...id=146:foamtac
WOW...Looks like the price took a big jump!



rc
Kevin, I just ripped the wing of my spitfire completely in half, and repaird with foam-tac as well. It's great stuff. The repair is nearly unnoticeable except for the paint didn't lay down quite flat where it peeled on the top of the wing. The bottom it's almost unnoticeable. Pic of the CC repair is below, and I"m going to post the repair of the Spit over in the AS3X spitfire thread.

RC from what I hear the price jump was because of differing and new regulations on some of the chemicals contained in the product which greatly affects their price in getting the raw materials.
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Old Feb 17, 2013, 12:39 PM
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SpinningProp's Avatar
Joined Jan 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kalmon View Post

If all you want to do is use the flaps switch on the dx6i, All you'd have to do is use a mix. I use a mix and the Mix+Flaps switches to get 3 position flaps, which REALLY HELPS by the way, on my dx6i. I've posted it a bunch of times here on the thread. If you need I'll search and link it.

-Brian
Brain, (or anyone for that matter), I'd be interested in knowing the step by step procedure how to get the 3 position flaps on my DX6i . Thanks
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Old Feb 17, 2013, 01:43 PM
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Denmark, Central Denmark Region, Silkeborg
Joined Nov 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SpinningProp View Post
Brain, (or anyone for that matter), I'd be interested in knowing the step by step procedure how to get the 3 position flaps on my DX6i . Thanks
Hi!

Copy/paste'd from an old post from my UM Pzl 104 Wilga -buildthread (post 9 http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...hp?t=1571413):

"By the way, here's a tip I'm quite happy to know.
I regret not to have a 3 position flap switch on my Dx6i (it's a 2 position switch, which usually means your flaps are either deployed or not).
Well, I regret not to be able to have the choice between; no flaps, a bit and fully down.
Then I figured out that, if the plane is mechannically trimmed to neutral, I could, when programming the flaps as undeployed, set the value to a symbollic '1'. Then with the Tx's electronic trims, trim the plane back to neutral.
Now we have a neutral trimmed plane again, but with a symbollic value programmed for when flaps are undeployed.
This allows to use a free mix: Flaps >> Flaps, activated by any switch (I tend to use the elevator D/R switch, next to the flap switch) and use the mix's value settings to trim the flaps travel.
And there you go, you now have a 3 position functionning flap, but on two switches. The downside of this solution is the lack of elevator compensation, when flaps are deployed through the mix.
I've used this solution for, i.e., a Multiplex Merlin (hotliner glider, 78cm wingspan, 365g). The original flapswitch was set for spoilerons and the mix, described above, for camber/extra lift-flap. On this plane the lack of elevator compensation didn't matter at all. In fact, for a smaller amount of flaps, it hardly needed any compensation."

Hope it helps!

Happy landings :-)
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Old Feb 17, 2013, 03:27 PM
Parkzone junkie
kalmon's Avatar
United States, MI, Grand Traverse
Joined Oct 2008
3,521 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by SpinningProp View Post
Brain, (or anyone for that matter), I'd be interested in knowing the step by step procedure how to get the 3 position flaps on my DX6i . Thanks
Here is my dx6i setup for my CC:
adjust->flaps:
Norm: 0 0
Land up100 dn xx (I use 00 now) <-- This is the Elevator Mixing on flap down. I started with 15 now I've removed it and just force myself to deploy at a slower speed.
The above has to be done regardless of the mixes used

You can choose either mix combo:

mix1: Flap -> Gear ACT
Rate: D: 0 U:+90
SW: Flap TRIM:ACT

mix2: Flap -> Gear ACT
Rate: D: 0 U:+100
SW: Mix TRIM ACT

--- OR ------

mix1: Flap -> Gear ACT
Rate: D: 0 U:+80
SW: Flap TRIM:ACT

mix2: Flap -> Gear ACT
Rate: D: 0 U:+105
SW: Mix TRIM ACT

-Brian
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Old Feb 17, 2013, 03:29 PM
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Backyard's Avatar
Tresure Coast Florida
Joined Feb 2004
254 Posts
ValiantGLX - Thanks for the transmitter info.
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Old Feb 17, 2013, 06:37 PM
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United States, TN, Jackson
Joined Mar 2007
3,988 Posts
I got my plane repaired this afternoon...Due to company coming over I didn't get in a test flight before the sun set......

What I found is that the left aileron connector was barely seated in the socket on the brick...When I separated the plane the connector just fell out on its own and I had to tug on the other two to get them apart from the brick...This explains the aileron issues...

But the sudden loss of power still has me asking questions---I did swap out the stock battery connector with a JST connector and all seems to be well...

I worked out some of the crinkles and wrinkles on the nose cowling...I think that it looks pretty good considering the motor ejected itself out of the front of the cowl......I found a paint at Hobby Lobby that matches the plane perfectly in color but it dries flat...You could spray a coat of Krylon Crystal Clear on the plane to bring back the sheen...The paint that I used for touch-ups: Americana brand "True Red" Acrylic paint...Cleans up with water but after it dries it is water-proof for all of you float flyers!!!......

Here are a couple of pics of my repaired plane...You've gotta understand that on the last crash this plane went almost straight in at an 85* angle into dirt/grass from about 75* up...

Kevin
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Old Feb 17, 2013, 07:29 PM
Chef Pilot: Planes vs Butter
ChinoDiablo's Avatar
United States, VA, Hamilton
Joined Jul 2012
2,508 Posts
I'm sure this has been covered in past posts but...
What's up with the longer prop adapters?
My V1 had a shorter adapter shared with the SBach that I've used in the past and now the new one designed exclusively for the CC has the prop hanging out too far from the cowl.
Looks weird.

Btw.. Kevin, nice repair job. Surely better than mine. But then again, I'm just a hacker.
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Old Feb 17, 2013, 07:33 PM
Gopher huntin' stick jockey
turboparker's Avatar
East Bethel, MN USA
Joined Jul 2009
11,420 Posts
Kevin,

Glad to see that you got her patched-up. That is one hell-of-a repair-job! Impressive, to say the least!

Good luck with the 're-maiden'. BTW - the 5030 prop isn't an issue. It actually spins faster than the stock prop, and therefore draws less current - despite the higher advertised pitch. It is also more efficient than the factory 5 x 2.75 when used with the current UMX motors & airframes.

Joel
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Old Feb 17, 2013, 08:18 PM
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United States, TN, Jackson
Joined Mar 2007
3,988 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by turboparker View Post
Kevin,

Glad to see that you got her patched-up. That is one hell-of-a repair-job! Impressive, to say the least!

Good luck with the 're-maiden'. BTW - the 5030 prop isn't an issue. It actually spins faster than the stock prop, and therefore draws less current - despite the higher advertised pitch. It is also more efficient than the factory 5 x 2.75 when used with the current UMX motors & airframes.

Joel
THANKS for the compliments on the repairs!!!...I should have taken pics of the plane before the repairs...

I'm grasping at straws to find the culprit to the motor cutoff/brick loosing bind issues...The last flight the plane acted as though it was on 72mHz, getting "hits"...Then total loss of control...This only happened with the 5030 prop...I'm thinking that's this is only a coincidence and that the stock power connector was to blame with intermittent connections...I'm off tomorrow so I'll try to get some flights in the AM before the winds kick up to much...We are expecting rain in the PM...

I've gotta say that when I put the stock props on the balancer they come up balanced VERY well...All of the GWS props have needed quite a bit of tape to balance properly...

Kevin
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Old Feb 17, 2013, 08:29 PM
ΜΟΛΩΝ ΛΑΒΕ
habitforming's Avatar
USA, KY, Hebron
Joined Dec 2005
2,730 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kevin Greene View Post
THANKS for the compliments on the repairs!!!...I should have taken pics of the plane before the repairs...

I'm grasping at straws to find the culprit to the motor cutoff/brick loosing bind issues...The last flight the plane acted as though it was on 72mHz, getting "hits"...Then total loss of control...This only happened with the 5030 prop...I'm thinking that's this is only a coincidence and that the stock power connector was to blame with intermittent connections...I'm off tomorrow so I'll try to get some flights in the AM before the winds kick up to much...We are expecting rain in the PM...

I've gotta say that when I put the stock props on the balancer they come up balanced VERY well...All of the GWS props have needed quite a bit of tape to balance properly...

Kevin
I found the same to be true with the stock props, but it still vibrated badly and made a lot more noise than a GWS 5030 after balancing it.
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Old Feb 17, 2013, 11:38 PM
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Joined Feb 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by turboparker View Post
...

Good luck with the 're-maiden'. BTW - the 5030 prop isn't an issue. It actually spins faster than the stock prop, and therefore draws less current - despite the higher advertised pitch. It is also more efficient than the factory 5 x 2.75 when used with the current UMX motors & airframes.

Joel
This stuff about the 5030 prop compared to the stock has me confused.
In comparing the two pressed together hub to hub the stock prop actually seems to have more pitch.
In my mind that explains the fact that the 5030 allows the motor to spin faster and also is more efficient.

My experience with balancing is the same - the stock props are quite well balanced and the GWS needed a fair amount of tape to balance - and even though the stock prop balanced OK it still created more vibration.

So what gives?

Has anyone actually done an empirical test of the thrust from those two props?
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Old Feb 18, 2013, 05:35 AM
Master of Micro Modding
valiantGLX's Avatar
Australia, SA, Burra
Joined Sep 2011
2,465 Posts
How do you use the included charger?

Can I connect it to a 3s lipo for the power supply?

Could I use a 6v dc power supply?
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Old Feb 18, 2013, 05:59 AM
BMFA 190658
SilentPilot's Avatar
United Kingdom, Yeadon
Joined Mar 2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by valiantGLX View Post
How do you use the included charger?
12V DC input needed. Mains or battery
Can I connect it to a 3s lipo for the power supply?
I think this has been done with a large 3S pack
Could I use a 6v dc power supply?
NO! That is often a problem with these BnF planes. 1S micros come with a 6V mains adapter for their charger but a 2S charger needs 12v
Tony
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Old Feb 18, 2013, 08:50 AM
Gopher huntin' stick jockey
turboparker's Avatar
East Bethel, MN USA
Joined Jul 2009
11,420 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by midnite View Post
This stuff about the 5030 prop compared to the stock has me confused.
In comparing the two pressed together hub to hub the stock prop actually seems to have more pitch.
In my mind that explains the fact that the 5030 allows the motor to spin faster and also is more efficient.

My experience with balancing is the same - the stock props are quite well balanced and the GWS needed a fair amount of tape to balance - and even though the stock prop balanced OK it still created more vibration.

So what gives?

Has anyone actually done an empirical test of the thrust from those two props?
Where are you comparing the pitch on the blades? Near the root, middle, or tips? I've never bothered to compare the pitch.

I remember that somebody did some bench-testing on the stock prop back when the original Beast came out. If I remember correctly, the 5030 produced about 8% more static thrust on the 2300Kv motor with the decidedly inadequate 120 mAh factory pack. Not sure if anyone tested it on the 2500. It is clearly obvious during vertical climbs that the 5030 outperforms the stock prop - at least with the 2300Kv motor. (I replaced the 2500Kv motor on my V2 with the more efficient & more powerful 2300Kv.) Others have reported similar findings. I did try the 5030 with the 2500 before I swapped motors, and it still outperformed the factory prop - but the difference was more subtle.

I have no desire to analyze this further. My static RPM results correlate well with those of others, and also with what many of us have observed in flight with the Beast, CC, and Sbach. That's good enough for me. However, it would be interesting to see a well-designed, well-executed static thrust test that takes all of the variables into account. But that is not a slam-dunk.

Joel
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Old Feb 18, 2013, 10:24 AM
Romans 8:34-39
bhoov128's Avatar
United States, FL, Davenport
Joined May 2012
8,162 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by valiantGLX View Post
How do you use the included charger?

Can I connect it to a 3s lipo for the power supply?

Could I use a 6v dc power supply?
Valiant I don't have the AC brick for my included charger so I use a 4000mah 3s topped up to power the charger, until I can set aside the money for a parallel cord from rcbabbel.
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