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Old Jan 25, 2013, 06:20 AM
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Kurtus's Avatar
Australia, WA, Belmont
Joined Aug 2012
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Thanks for the reply
I stand corrected about warranty in Australia.
PerthRC asked me to bring it in including my tx, did thier checks and replaced the CC. hand in was pulling like a mule at 3/4 compared to replacement
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Old Jan 25, 2013, 06:20 AM
Parkzone junkie
kalmon's Avatar
United States, MI, Grand Traverse
Joined Oct 2008
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Originally Posted by Kurtus View Post
Finnaly after a long wait i get my 2nd CC which is v2 and after binding i might have a problem so i havent flown it yet.

All the control surfaces work ok but the motor cuts out when i raise it to about 3/4 throttle... the red light flashes a bit and resets to solid and i have throttle control again. I dont intend to hold onto it whilst its at wot for long but it doesnt even get there. As soon as i raise the stick to 3/4+ it cuts out instantly and resets.

Ive read Joel's answers on possible reasons for OCP and all the servos appear ok but havent cut and checked connections or motor draw due to warranty if i get any in Australia No probs with my Sbach or Beast going to WOT on a static test and i only do it very briefly anyway but could the reason be that im doing a static test and causing to much load or is it a sure indication of cactus and not worth risking a maiden its bad isnt it. Ta

EFLU4864 rx
Standard Prop
Eflite 180mah and 200mah used for test
Sounds like either batteries or a short somewhere. Eflite batteries aren't know for their ability to supply current... Try a 50% throttle static run then rapidly rotate the plane in all 3 axis to let AS3X move all the servos. If you get a cutout that way I'd say replace the batteries. if not As was mentioned above contact HH support and try to work with the LHS.

-Brian
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Old Jan 25, 2013, 06:32 AM
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Australia, WA, Belmont
Joined Aug 2012
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[QUOTE=kalmon;23924313]Sounds like either batteries or a short somewhere. Eflite batteries aren't know for their ability to supply current... Try a 50% throttle static run then rapidly rotate the plane in all 3 axis to let AS3X move all the servos. If you get a cutout that way I'd say replace the batteries. if not As was mentioned above contact HH support and try to work with the LHS.

-Brian[/QUOTE

All sorted... Ta
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Old Jan 25, 2013, 07:52 PM
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USA, KY, Hebron
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Hi everyone, I'm picking up one of these tomorrow (finally!). I've checked in on the thread from time to time, but haven't kept up too well. 5,448 posts is a lot to read through - can anyone give me some cliff's notes on any recommended initial setup/tweak/modification? I'll be flying with a DX7, and hope to be doing 3 flap positions with the flight mode switch - is this possible, and does it take anything more than the normal transmitter setup?

To be clear - this is a new v2, and I'm also getting the floats (though i don't expect to try flying off of them for a bit).
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Old Jan 25, 2013, 08:05 PM
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United States, MI, Grand Traverse
Joined Oct 2008
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Originally Posted by habitforming View Post
Hi everyone, I'm picking up one of these tomorrow (finally!). I've checked in on the thread from time to time, but haven't kept up too well. 5,448 posts is a lot to read through - can anyone give me some cliff's notes on any recommended initial setup/tweak/modification? I'll be flying with a DX7, and hope to be doing 3 flap positions with the flight mode switch - is this possible, and does it take anything more than the normal transmitter setup?

To be clear - this is a new v2, and I'm also getting the floats (though i don't expect to try flying off of them for a bit).
Cliff notes things to do: Move elevator rod to the second to innermost hole on control horn. Move Rudder to the 3rd or second innermost hole. Power on plane then unplug. Mechanically adjust the U bends until all surfaces are aligned correctly. Fly and trim plane. Land mark where all the surfaces are, remove all the TX trim, then power off plane taking care not to move it as you're unplugging. Mechanically readjust the U bends to get them to where you had them marked.

There is not much else that needs to be done. Maybe a swap to a 5030 prop.

-Brian
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Old Jan 25, 2013, 08:32 PM
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East Bethel, MN USA
Joined Jul 2009
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Originally Posted by kalmon View Post
.......There is not much else that needs to be done. Maybe a swap to a 5030 prop.

-Brian
Except for picking up a handful of ultralight TP 325 65c packs from RCBabbel, and making sure that you don't need a nature-break during the 15 minutes it takes to reach the 80% discharge point!

Joel
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Old Jan 25, 2013, 09:31 PM
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USA, KY, Hebron
Joined Dec 2005
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kalmon View Post
Cliff notes things to do: Move elevator rod to the second to innermost hole on control horn. Move Rudder to the 3rd or second innermost hole. Power on plane then unplug. Mechanically adjust the U bends until all surfaces are aligned correctly. Fly and trim plane. Land mark where all the surfaces are, remove all the TX trim, then power off plane taking care not to move it as you're unplugging. Mechanically readjust the U bends to get them to where you had them marked.

There is not much else that needs to be done. Maybe a swap to a 5030 prop.

-Brian
Thanks, conveniently I should have one of those props laying around. Has anyone tested with the 5043? Any reason not to go to innermost holes? As I fly some 3d, excess travel isn't something I mind having.

Quote:
Originally Posted by turboparker View Post
Except for picking up a handful of ultralight TP 325 65c packs from RCBabbel, and making sure that you don't need a nature-break during the 15 minutes it takes to reach the 80% discharge point!

Joel
Yes yes, those have been on my shopping list for a while. My Mig is also in need of the same!
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Old Jan 25, 2013, 10:30 PM
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Joined Feb 2012
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I'm in need of some DeoxIT education.

I finally got a can of D5, part # D5S-6.

It has Canadian labelling which is a bit different from that of the U.S.
There's no mention on the container of being a lubricant but in their website they classify it as being a cleaner, enhancer, and protector. There are several different part numbers available with different characteristics.
The Faderlube F5 is for lubing conductive plastics and controls. However I frequently see recommendations to follow up the D5 application with the F5 lube - is that really necessary?
Asking because the Faderlube is not available here.

As far as application is concerned - it's obviously to be directed at the conductive carbon strip in the servo but is it ok that the rest of the servo also be sprayed? Also, is it ok to not use the Faderlube?

I have disassembled one of the servos on the mCP-X heli and cleaned the carbon strip after it started acting up - do I understand that disassembly of these linear servos doesn't have to be done if this DeoxIT is just sprayed on with the servo installed and intact?
Finally - does it have any effect on the foam?
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Old Jan 25, 2013, 10:38 PM
Augernaut
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United States, KS, Overland Park
Joined Jan 2010
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Originally Posted by habitforming View Post
Thanks, conveniently I should have one of those props laying around. Has anyone tested with the 5043? Any reason not to go to innermost holes? As I fly some 3d, excess travel isn't something I mind having.



Yes yes, those have been on my shopping list for a while. My Mig is also in need of the same!
Im n ot sure on this one, but on my beast the innermost holes tended to create a bit of over correction on the beast 3D. It does fly more aggresively, bu the AS3X becomes very noticable. second to innermost seems to be a great compromise between stability and agility.
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Old Jan 25, 2013, 11:37 PM
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East Bethel, MN USA
Joined Jul 2009
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HF,

The 5043 is a poor match for the airframe. The name of the game with Cubs is high thrust at low airspeed, so the 5030 is a much better choice. Besides, the 5043 is too much for the 2500Kv motor anyway - even in the Beast & Sbach. It actually generates less thrust than the 5030, even though it draws more current. Regarding pushrod positions - I've got the elevator & rudder on the innermost holes, and the ailerons on the second hole out.

Midnite,

DeoxIT is foam-safe. And yes, you use the straw to spray it on the resistive strip. FaderLube restores the lubricity of the resistive strip & prolongs its lifespan, but it is not mandatory. And yes - DeoxIT eliminates the need for disassembly in most cases.

Here's a Canadian source for both products: http://www.asalco.com/index.php/en/p...enance/deoxitr

Joel
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Old Jan 26, 2013, 12:05 AM
Scout CX | mCX2 | mSR | 120SR
North_of_49's Avatar
Canada, AB, Edmonton
Joined Dec 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by midnite View Post
...
Asking because the Faderlube is not available here.
...
You can get Deoxit including the FaderLube at Long & McQuade

http://www.long-mcquade.com/?page=se...archTxt=deoxit
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Old Jan 26, 2013, 12:30 AM
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Joined Feb 2012
471 Posts
OK thanks guys.

Does the D5 have a lubricant in it as well?
If the Faderlube isn't used will the conductive strip actually wear prematurely because of the use of the D5?
Also, was that strip treated originally?
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Old Jan 26, 2013, 12:35 AM
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habitforming's Avatar
USA, KY, Hebron
Joined Dec 2005
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Quote:
Originally Posted by turboparker View Post
HF,

The 5043 is a poor match for the airframe. The name of the game with Cubs is high thrust at low airspeed, so the 5030 is a much better choice. Besides, the 5043 is too much for the 2500Kv motor anyway - even in the Beast & Sbach. It actually generates less thrust than the 5030, even though it draws more current. Regarding pushrod positions - I've got the elevator & rudder on the innermost holes, and the ailerons on the second hole out.

<trim>

Joel
Joel, thank you as always, and I shall perish the thought on the 5043

For once I am forecast for decent flying weather for the maiden. Who would've thought?
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Old Jan 26, 2013, 02:01 AM
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Joined May 2007
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Think my elevator locking may have been caused by the pushrod guide I added, removed and will see if it works perfect.
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Old Jan 26, 2013, 07:45 AM
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United States, MI, Grand Traverse
Joined Oct 2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by habitforming View Post
Thanks, conveniently I should have one of those props laying around. Has anyone tested with the 5043? Any reason not to go to innermost holes? As I fly some 3d, excess travel isn't something I mind having.
No there is usually no problem with innermost holes. The reason I said 2nd is that on some planes the linkage geometry will cause the rod to hit the horizontal stab and bind. Having my rudder in the 3rd out was a personal preference. To me it felt like the right location to make the amount of rudder on the stick to coordinate the turns feel "right" however it flies very well with them all the way in too.

-Brian
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