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Old May 14, 2012, 12:09 AM
Lost Realist
United States, NC, Concord
Joined Apr 2012
71 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pilot Fatigue View Post
All the way back in the battery box?
Yep, as far back towards the tail as possible has been working for me. Honestly with these as3x planes there is a lot of tolerance for cg placement (to a point). I generally set the CG as recommended, mechanically trim out the plane so that it keeps a straight line, and then start moving the CG back. I'll keep moving it back until it gets so far back that the nose starts wanting to pull up harder than as3x corrects. Then I move it just forward of that. I find that gives me the most agility while as3x takes care of the stability. I could not push the CG back enough with the CC to get it to nose up so I just keep the batteries as far back as possible.
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Old May 14, 2012, 12:26 AM
Lost Realist
United States, NC, Concord
Joined Apr 2012
71 Posts
So here's something that has been bugging me: Why offset servos? Why have aileron differential? I understand adverse yaw in a convetional plane, but isn't adverse yaw just that, adverse 'uncommanded' yaw? Isn't that what as3x corrects? Shouldn't the as3x scrub out the adverse yaw by applying the appropriate amount of rudder? Does it simply not have enough authority or is adverse yaw such a gradual force that it gets filtered out by the gyros?



I also feel like the CC is ever so slightly lacking in aileron authority. My HZ Super Cub, w/ ailerons I cut in, has way way more aileron authority with no differential and suffers from virtually no adverse yaw, and besides adverse yaw is nice when you are 12 inches from the ground and making a 90 degree bank, it's nice that nose kind of pulls away from the ground on its own. I might try one of the beast 3d or gee bee ailerons just to see if I can get a little more aileron authority. My thumbs make a coordinated turn by muscle memory anyway.


Thinking as I'm typing, it's probably: "such a gradual force that it gets filtered out by the gyros". The same way that it filters out gravity in a knife edge and will fall out of it without constant input. I wonder if the programmable board will let us jack up the gain and play around. If the sensitivity was high enough we could do rolling harrier circles without actually holding the nose up ourselves with the rudder elevator dance. Just input the turns
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Old May 14, 2012, 12:37 AM
EDF Junkie
Pacific Northwest
Joined Oct 2007
1,496 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by LyonNightroad View Post
If you are having trouble with the servos there is no harm in trying to clean them. My mcpx used similar servos and they CONSTANTLY needed to be cleaned. Its a PIA but can be done with a matchstick and alcohol.
There are several ways to clean them and please don't take this comment as criticism, I just want to share my results with the forum.

Alcohol works if you want to clean them CONSTANTLY and it's cheap. Deoxit works if you want to clean them ONCE. It will clean and provide future protection from corrosion and oxidation (read the user reviews on Amazon for support). Not as cheap but I think the can I bought might be a lifetime supply for my UMX's. I definitely agree the paper end of a matchstick is the best cleaning device. No chance of leaving cotton behind like could happen with a cotton swab.

I have hundreds of flights on my mCPx and only one cleaning after about 75 flights. Maybe I'll have to clean them again some day?????
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Old May 14, 2012, 12:53 AM
Lost Realist
United States, NC, Concord
Joined Apr 2012
71 Posts
No, I appreciate the advice. I hadn't even heard of the stuff but from what I've read over the last few pages, I'm buying some Deoxit.
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Old May 14, 2012, 12:57 AM
EDF Junkie
Pacific Northwest
Joined Oct 2007
1,496 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by LyonNightroad View Post
No, I appreciate the advice. I hadn't even heard of the stuff but from what I've read over the last few pages, I'm buying some Deoxit.
You're welcome. I think they claim it makes the metal better than new. I don't know about that but I do know I've been very happy with the results. I had never heard of it either until I had mCPX issues.
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Old May 14, 2012, 01:12 AM
Lost Realist
United States, NC, Concord
Joined Apr 2012
71 Posts
Let's keep this fire hose flowing.

Anybody have thoughts on the geebee 5.25x3.5 prop on the CC's 2300kv. It sounds like the perfect compromise to me but maybe I am missing something.
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Old May 14, 2012, 05:02 AM
KAE
Registered User
United States, WI, Sheboygan
Joined Jan 2010
219 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lwsroc240 View Post
KAE,

Not sure on gluing that part over the landing strut. It was hard to tell in your video how much throttle you were using, but I found leaving some throttle on to the ground lengthened my landing approach and made my landings a bit smoother. My biggest problem on landing is ground looping. I haven't used the flaps much yet either.
Yeah, adding power helped on some of my later landings but I still need lots of practice. It doesn't land anything like the Easy Star - doesn't taxi like the Easy Star either.
I spent some time just trying to taxi the CC around the parking lot without ground looping.
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Old May 14, 2012, 06:48 AM
Registered User
Joined Sep 2010
3,663 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by LyonNightroad View Post
Yep, as far back towards the tail as possible has been working for me. Honestly with these as3x planes there is a lot of tolerance for cg placement (to a point). I generally set the CG as recommended, mechanically trim out the plane so that it keeps a straight line, and then start moving the CG back. I'll keep moving it back until it gets so far back that the nose starts wanting to pull up harder than as3x corrects. Then I move it just forward of that. I find that gives me the most agility while as3x takes care of the stability. I could not push the CG back enough with the CC to get it to nose up so I just keep the batteries as far back as possible.
There must be some huge differences in the weight of the foam in these things. I originally put my battery in where it was about 3/16" forward from the back of the box and it was totally unmanageable. It would try to hover under full power and you couldn't give it enough elevator to stop it. Seems to be best with about 5/8" space behind the battery to the end of the box.
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Old May 14, 2012, 06:53 AM
Gopher huntin' stick jockey
turboparker's Avatar
East Bethel, MN USA
Joined Jul 2009
11,425 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by LyonNightroad View Post
No, I appreciate the advice. I hadn't even heard of the stuff but from what I've read over the last few pages, I'm buying some Deoxit.
Quote:
Originally Posted by NwRcFlight View Post
You're welcome. I think they claim it makes the metal better than new. I don't know about that but I do know I've been very happy with the results. I had never heard of it either until I had mCPX issues.
I spent over 30 years as an audio engineer in the music industry. DeoxIT FaderLube was my #1 choice for pots & faders in my expensive mixing consoles. Unlike contact cleaners & alcohol, it provides long-term protection. There are probably other brands available, but DeoxIT FaderLube works better on pots & sliders than anything else I have used in my nearly 40 years of electronics experience.

Joel
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Old May 14, 2012, 07:33 AM
BMFA 190658
SilentPilot's Avatar
United Kingdom, Yeadon
Joined Mar 2007
3,971 Posts
Anyone else having trouble swapping the prop?
The spinner had to be cut off, no chance of that going back on now. The screw that holds the prop on is just rounding and is stuck fast.

That 5043 better be worth all the hassle
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Old May 14, 2012, 07:41 AM
Registered User
Indianapolis, IN
Joined Oct 2010
1,864 Posts
It is a tough! I replaced the stock spinner with a modified GWS prop adapter/spinner for use with the 5030 and 5043 on the 1S planes. The screw also had glue on it as well. I unscrewed it a little then locked motor up with a small screw driver and spun the whole prop off and then removed the screw from the stock prop which was much easier.

By the way on my maiden I did an outside loop, make sure you are about four mistakes high for this one! This was even with the rod setting changed to the third hole out (farthest I could go in without the rod hitting the horizontal stab).

Quote:
Originally Posted by SilentPilot View Post
Anyone else having trouble swapping the prop?
The spinner had to be cut off, no chance of that going back on now. The screw that holds the prop on is just rounding and is stuck fast.

That 5043 better be worth all the hassle
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Old May 14, 2012, 08:07 AM
LiPo-Sucker & Airframe EMT
pugsam's Avatar
Charlottesville, Virginia, USA
Joined Aug 2010
3,423 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by turboparker View Post
......DeoxIT FaderLube was my #1 choice.....


Joel,

As you know, DeoxIT comes in a variety of flavors.

A few months ago, before we had all this specific info about it, this is the one I bought -- DeoxIT® GOLD Liquid, squeeze tube 100% solution 2 ml.

(Amazon: http://www.amazon.com/DeoxIT%C2%AE-G.../dp/B003D8EA7A)

In your experience, will it do a good job on our RC applications? Or would I be better off putting this aside and getting the FaderLube?

Dave

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Old May 14, 2012, 08:29 AM
Just wanna fly!
grovey's Avatar
United States, TX
Joined Apr 2008
1,012 Posts
@IndyMatt

On the stock position, the linkage looks to be touching or close to touching the horizontal stab on my plane.

Anyone else have this? I am wondering if this is going to be a potential issue. Moving the linkage further inward I am sure will increase the binding.
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Old May 14, 2012, 08:53 AM
Registered User
Indianapolis, IN
Joined Oct 2010
1,864 Posts
Mine is close with the positon moved in, I actually had it further in and moved it out after the linkage made a dent in the foam of the horizontal stab. That did not cause the issue on the first plane though with the elevator servo problem.
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Old May 14, 2012, 08:55 AM
Registered User
Indianapolis, IN
Joined Oct 2010
1,864 Posts
Pugsam - Deoxit's site has an explanation of each formula. I think the D series and Fader fit into what we are looking for as far as corrosion protection as well as a solvent.
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