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Old Feb 08, 2012, 12:31 PM
RC Geek
Scott_NJ's Avatar
United States, NJ, Stanhope
Joined Dec 2004
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Sia, interesting on the sound from the Go-Pro, for sure being in the full case, the gain is turned up so vibrations and such will be magnified. That eye of mine site has something that is interesting as far as sound that they use on cars and such with the open back. Its basically a piece of fur that covers the back of the housing, and looks like it does a great job of cutting wind noise. It looks funny, but when you think of those boom mics and such you see all the time they are always covered in that gray fur. :-)

I think you may be right on the audio, found this cable at Readymade, looks like it is set-up for a seperate Audio and Video out from the Go Pro.
http://readymaderc.com/store/index.p...roducts_id=289

-Scott
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Old Feb 08, 2012, 02:03 PM
Expat
Japan
Joined Apr 2010
3,010 Posts
lol, I just got that link and was coming here to post it. I have that cable, and it works, although I've never flown with it, as I fly with a seperate cam/mic and leave the GP sealed.
But remember to test for sound signal interfering with your video signal. Not just EMI type, but also the signal itself especialy at high volume. On my setup, despite muffling, the engine noise at WOTon one test flight completely knocked out the video signal.
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Old Feb 08, 2012, 07:54 PM
TREX 450 FPV Holy Grail
sia100's Avatar
Central Texas
Joined Apr 2009
437 Posts
Thanks NiceGuy. And that is good info about the audio possibly interfering with RC control range. So the higher the amplitude of the audio signal, the more interference it produces. I'll bear that in mind when I fine tune the audio! Do you think the signal level of the gopro is higher than the external mic you are using?

crezzee: Well that makes total sense...gopro is heavy, so shift the battery back! I guess I missed that because I didn't see it in the rear position in any of David's pics or vids. Can you post a link that shows the position for us? So others will have a reference and avoid making the mistake I did. I guess it is back to the drawing board on the location of the electronics pod! Phase 6 or 7, eh?? I see how it is. Lol.

Scott: Yeah, with the watertight/airtight case, the only sounds the mic can pick up are vibrations through the case, and none of the "normal" air-based sound waves. That has the effect of a low pass audio filter, since the case passes all of the low freq vibrations, and none of the high-end stuff. So you lose the crispness of the actual sounds, and only have frame-transmitted vibrations, which ends up sounding like a grumbling monster! That is why I went with the external mic for now. I will likely end up replacing the waterproof back with the skeleton one and using the gopro mic instead. If wind noise ends up being a problem, I'll use foam on the skeleton holes, so no wind gets to the mic, only sound vibrations. Of course I might end up ditching the case altogether (and adding the lens cover of course!) and sticking foam over the gopro mic hole to filter the wind there instead.
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Old Feb 08, 2012, 08:37 PM
Expat
Japan
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The audio signal is transmitted with the video signal, and can create video distortion - it does not affect the RC link. No idea about which is louder, but I guess my external mic was. It was the cheapest at SC2000, and I shelved it while I worked out other bugs. There was a thread on mics somewhere, but IIRC you want to get one with a volume control or you're hooped. I covered mine with foam and tape and out of wind, and still no good.
Apparently a well tuned mic is good, as it will start to give "out of range" static before the video drops out.
If you are in a jam for where to put the VTX, one guy created more real estate by tying string between the booms.
This tri is looking better all the time. I remembered I have a pile of super tough 44g Futaba servos (analog, but maybe OK) that may work for the tail rotor.
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Old Feb 08, 2012, 09:08 PM
Gets shakes if no FPV in 24hrs
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Joined Dec 2011
418 Posts
Wow lots of great ideas in this post. I like the drilled hole in the GoPro case. I hadn't thought of that. Honestly you should really try and find a way to accomodate the go pro housing with the way it's perched. A replacement won't come cheap.

I've already worked out how to power your GoPro in flight. You'll need one of these expansion ports. You'll need to hook up a 5v regulator if you plan on running it off a seperate flight battery. Otherwise I suppose you could use the 6v from the ESC's BEC by plugging into a spare reciever channel?



Lots of mini builds, I like that approach. You'll see that each time you will indeed see better ways to put things together. My heli didn't happen overnight. It's one step at a time. For the OSD, I realized you don't need the eLogger. You'll still need a OSD Pro and GPS module to get the basics running.
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Old Feb 08, 2012, 10:01 PM
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United States, WA, Olympia
Joined May 2008
78 Posts
Question

I am building one of these and was wondering what the numbering of the motors is? Do I only connect the motors to M1,M2,M3? Also, do all the motors spin the same direction? Thanks
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Old Feb 08, 2012, 11:34 PM
TREX 450 FPV Holy Grail
sia100's Avatar
Central Texas
Joined Apr 2009
437 Posts
So....I think I toasted my OSD Pro while I was trying new mounting positions tonight. No fun. Read all about it on the OSD Pro support thread here: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...&postcount=472

It was looking sweet though!!



gkowen: yes. M1 and M2 are the front motors (either way will work) and M3 is the rear motor. M4 is the rudder servo. And yes, all of the motors spin in the same direction. I've read you can have the two front motors spin opposite each other, which would require appropriate props. But I've also read that the impact is insignificant. It is something I was planning on checking out later on. If you are just starting out, spin all of the motors in the same direction.
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Old Feb 09, 2012, 12:30 AM
Gets shakes if no FPV in 24hrs
jarod120's Avatar
Joined Dec 2011
418 Posts
Oh , that bites. If it makes you feel any better I let out the magic white smoke from my ET setup. I blew everything, the eLogger, OSD Pro, GPS, and Guardian were all toast. I sent it to ET for repairs and I got lucky. They didn't have some test equipment on hand that was needed for diagnosing problems. I didn't incur any repair fees. Open a RMA ticket through their website and mail it in.

Tonight I hooked up the power backwards and blew my DC power filter. Thank god it blew and nothing else. It could have been much worse.

These things happen, you'll get it sorted out.
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Old Feb 09, 2012, 03:42 AM
Build Fly Crash Repeat
crezzee's Avatar
Worcester UK
Joined Nov 2004
774 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by sia100 View Post
crezzee: Well that makes total sense...gopro is heavy, so shift the battery back! I guess I missed that because I didn't see it in the rear position in any of David's pics or vids. Can you post a link that shows the position for us? So others will have a reference and avoid making the mistake I did. I guess it is back to the drawing board on the location of the electronics pod! Phase 6 or 7, eh?? I see how it is. Lol.
This is the only pic i can find, if you look closely you can see that the battery is not directly under the gopro.

Also have a look at this vid at 1.55

Flite Test - Tricopter - REVIEW (12 min 0 sec)
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Old Feb 09, 2012, 08:02 AM
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United States, NJ, Stanhope
Joined Dec 2004
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Jarod, interesting for sure, have you figured out which of the connections are the video out? Also where did you get the board from if you don't mind my asking?

The other way I have seen people power the gopro is through the USB port, using a 90 degree mini usb cable along with the video out plug, but putting both onto the card with servo connectors would be slick.

Scott

Quote:
Originally Posted by jarod120 View Post
Wow lots of great ideas in this post. I like the drilled hole in the GoPro case. I hadn't thought of that. Honestly you should really try and find a way to accomodate the go pro housing with the way it's perched. A replacement won't come cheap.

I've already worked out how to power your GoPro in flight. You'll need one of these expansion ports. You'll need to hook up a 5v regulator if you plan on running it off a seperate flight battery. Otherwise I suppose you could use the 6v from the ESC's BEC by plugging into a spare reciever channel?



Lots of mini builds, I like that approach. You'll see that each time you will indeed see better ways to put things together. My heli didn't happen overnight. It's one step at a time. For the OSD, I realized you don't need the eLogger. You'll still need a OSD Pro and GPS module to get the basics running.
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Old Feb 09, 2012, 08:05 AM
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United States, NJ, Stanhope
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Sia, ouch on the OSD, let us know how you make out with a repair.
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Old Feb 09, 2012, 06:08 PM
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success
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Old Feb 09, 2012, 06:08 PM
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Joined Nov 2011
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I dont know if this is normal on lift off my M1 would power more than the rest I had to use alot of trim..


RXExplorer Tricopter v2.5 (1 min 22 sec)

IMG 1235 (0 min 30 sec)
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Old Feb 09, 2012, 06:51 PM
TREX 450 FPV Holy Grail
sia100's Avatar
Central Texas
Joined Apr 2009
437 Posts
Awesome freshmint! Was the herky jerky towards the end of the first video just you testing reaction time on the controls? Or was something weird going on?

On the M1 question: The most likely cause would be not going through the individual ESC throttle range setting exercise. I had similar issues until I callibrated each ESC. If this is, in fact, the problem, it is characterized by the motors spinning up at different time as you increase throttle from zero. Is that what you are seeing? Here are the ESC range setting instructions from the KKMulticopter site:

- Restore Yaw gain pot.
- Set Yaw gain pot to zero.
- Put throttle stick to full.
- Power on.
- LED flashes 3 times.(Ready)
- Check a receiver power.
- Wait a few seconds.(In this state, ignore the beeping.)
- LED flashes 3 times.(Start)[Supported in v1.6 or later]
- Wait for motor signal.(Please refer to the manual of ESC.)
- Throttle to zero.
- Wait for motor confirm signal.
- Power off.
- Restore Yaw gain pot.

Jarod, thanks for the info on the gopro power adapter. So the adapter looks pretty big. Would it be able to be used with the case on, or would it jut out too far?

Quote:
Honestly you should really try and find a way to accomodate the go pro housing with the way it's perched. A replacement won't come cheap.
Potential interesting point of discussion: Best Buy's damage waiver. I never do these things. Ever. They cover damage in the course of regular, intended use. Well, for the gopro, anything short of intentional damage qualifies, because the product is designed to be used in extreme, high risk, high speed situations. I assumed this, but the sales associate made a point of covering this aspect of the coverage in the case of the gopro, which is different than anything else that they sell. I decided to take the $30 insurance.

So...anyone had a cause to use the protection plan from Best Buy on the gopro yet??

Quote:
You'll still need a OSD Pro and GPS module to get the basics running.
I thought the GPS module required the DataLogger? That was the only reason I bought the DataLogger. But I am considering looking at a different OSD solution. If I can find one that is significantly lighter than the ET solution, and it meets all of my requirements, I'd use it on the tri. I want to put an RPM sensor on the Trex, though, and I do like the EagleTree, so I would keep that for the Heli.

crezzee, thanks for the battery location vid and pic post. Super-helpful. I am a true believer now :-) The new OSD mount approach I took last night was based on your info. Of course that resulted in the OSD flame-out I experienced, too, so... kidding :-) I will definitely use the rear arm mount for the OSD solution, whatever that may end up being. Way better than the food container approach. But I do have to find a way to use a food container somewhere on the tri, lol.

Quote:
The other way I have seen people power the gopro is through the USB port, using a 90 degree mini usb cable along with the video out plug, but putting both onto the card with servo connectors would be slick.
Scott, would you mind posting a link to this information? I am interested in learning about all of the gopro audio out, video out and power options that are available.

And just cause I don't like doing a post without a pic, here is the last pic I took before I zapped the OSD:

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Old Feb 09, 2012, 07:00 PM
Registered User
Joined Nov 2011
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The jerky at the endI was testing the gyro rates.

I follow this esc setup is it not correct?

- Make sure that the flight-controller is turned off
- Turn the Yaw pot to the MIN position
- Turn on the transmitter
- Move the throttle stick to top (full)
- Turn on the flight-controller
- Wait until the ESC's beeps twice after the initial beeps. (Plush and SS ESC's)
- Swiftly move the throttle stick fully down (closed). The ESC’s beeps
- Power off the flight-controller
- Restore the yaw pot to around 50%

Why do you have so many cable going into your gyro from the rx? I only used 2

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