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Old Nov 16, 2012, 03:15 AM
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Germany, NRW, Oberhausen
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Originally Posted by c3d76 View Post
Hey Markus, if you go with this setup don't forget to also get a 6v BEC to power the HFG/servos.
Wiring diagram and info page 3 here: http://www.tppacks.com/store/downloa...structions.pdf
Hey C3, thanks for the tipp....i know it and when i step up to the MKS i will use a 6 V Bec.
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Old Nov 16, 2012, 10:52 AM
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askman's Avatar
United States, OR
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Originally Posted by WonderKing View Post
will the AG700 lift 5D DSLR? i know it sounds silly, but one of my client need me to lift his 5D on air
it is 6.1" wide. if you need it wider, I can make it wider. (just longer tubes) so, yes, with heavy load, you may want to go to 2.8:1 on the roll.
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Old Nov 16, 2012, 05:55 PM
SMILE you're being recorded :)
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Well, 3rd flight with Y550. Still no time to readjust Naza settings and flying in a bit wind condition.
It's a different feel than F550. It doesn't do such smooth round corners but feels a lot more steady and holds really well in the wind!

Gary, could it be that you were overloading that frame wit 2 cameras plus gimbal and all the rest?

Askman, thanks for upgrade the manual, but mine came almost completely unassembled and it doesn't show in details all the parts needed for assembly. I hope I'm wrong but suspect there're some parts missing.
I will try to identify what could be by looking pictures of other gimbals with same system and send you an email.
If you have the time, please also check that pictures I sent you as it may be easier for you to identify what could be missing.
There is a picture of old original yoke and the all the new parts I have just received in that last shipment together with the replacement motor.
Thanks
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Old Nov 16, 2012, 06:49 PM
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looks like you have all the part you need. you do need to take the old gimbal apart for some of the parts, but it should go together pretty easily. please follow the instruction and it should go together fine. you actually got extra pot. you can use the existing pot that is already wired if you wish.
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Old Nov 16, 2012, 07:20 PM
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Originally Posted by M4rkus View Post
Hey C3, thanks for the tipp....i know it and when i step up to the MKS i will use a 6 V Bec.
There's no way a MKS BLS950 will fit on that gimbal, in either position. This gimbal uses mini servos and is really just for very lightweight cameras, like a GoPro.

-- Gary
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Old Nov 16, 2012, 10:10 PM
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United States, TX, Round Rock
Joined Nov 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by askman View Post
did you calibrated the hfg by the manual? i've had issue like that when it was not calibrated. I used heat gun to calibrate. and make sure camera itself is firm on the plate.
I just calibrated with a heat gun just before this flight. I can try to do it again. Just wondering why you need a camera on the plate during calibration.

Quote:
I think you need to up your roll and tilt accl a little bit. Do it in small increments, but it looks like the roll needs a bit more then the tilt, just guessing here. As for the jitter when your hovering, I have no idea, but it couldn't hurt to do the calibration over again as Andrey suggests.
I was wondering what to look for on adjusting the accl part. I did turn them down a tad to see if this was the cause of the jitter. I followed the hover fly video on adjusting the accl, but it would be cool to see some video samples of what happens when you go to far in either direction.
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Old Nov 16, 2012, 10:49 PM
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I don't mean that you need camera during cal, rather that camera must be mounted firmly while in flight.
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Old Nov 17, 2012, 12:16 AM
Aerial Abstract Art
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double post :
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Old Nov 17, 2012, 12:17 AM
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Originally Posted by jbdww View Post
I was wondering what to look for on adjusting the accl part. I did turn them down a tad to see if this was the cause of the jitter. I followed the hover fly video on adjusting the accl, but it would be cool to see some video samples of what happens when you go to far in either direction.
Gary describes the best way to setup accl by quickly tilting your copter and see if the gimbal lags behind in movement or if it overshots and then rocks back. If it lags behind, add more accl. If you tilt it and it overshoots and rocks back, then your accl is too high.

I just noticed spots in your video where both your tilt and your roll were slow to react and need their accl turned up. Accl will change depending on the weight of the camera. I run a NEX 5N with kit lens and I need my roll accl at 375 and my tilt accl at 550. When I just ran a gopro, my accl was at like 250 on roll and 350 on tilt if I remember right. Look at your footage after flying forward and stopping and then flying back and stopping a few times will give you a idea for your tilt settings. Do them back and forth in a manner that you usually fly in, don't just jerk the stick hard if you don't normally fly like that. Repeat the same for roll and inspect your video.

With a little experimenting, you will get there. For me, I make changes to the settings, do a flight in my back yard, check the footage on my computer and then make more adjustments until I get it right.
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Old Nov 17, 2012, 03:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Daloaf View Post
Gary describes the best way to setup accl by quickly tilting your copter and see if the gimbal lags behind in movement or if it overshots and then rocks back. If it lags behind, add more accl. If you tilt it and it overshoots and rocks back, then your accl is too high.

I just noticed spots in your video where both your tilt and your roll were slow to react and need their accl turned up. Accl will change depending on the weight of the camera. I run a NEX 5N with kit lens and I need my roll accl at 375 and my tilt accl at 550. When I just ran a gopro, my accl was at like 250 on roll and 350 on tilt if I remember right. Look at your footage after flying forward and stopping and then flying back and stopping a few times will give you a idea for your tilt settings. Do them back and forth in a manner that you usually fly in, don't just jerk the stick hard if you don't normally fly like that. Repeat the same for roll and inspect your video.

With a little experimenting, you will get there. For me, I make changes to the settings, do a flight in my back yard, check the footage on my computer and then make more adjustments until I get it right.
This is exactly right, and I'm using almost exactly the same numbers. For my NEX-5R/24mm CZ lens combo my pitch acc. value is 550 and the roll is 400. With the new Hero3 setup I'm testing, the pitch is at 350 and roll is 250.

Speaking of the Hero3, I was finally able to get a quick test flight in today. I used my F550, because my Shrimp isn't finished yet and I'm still re-wiring my Lobster. It worked okay, but it was a bit breezy, and the poor F550 was struggling to stay in one place. I will say the new v1.6 WKM firmware works a lot better. I'm not sure what they did to the "secret sauce", but I'm hoping some of it makes it into the Naza code, at some point. Anyway, with the older firmware, I think I might have lost it today, a couple of times.

I had the H3 set to the 2.7k/30p mode, and I edited two versions, and both are in the video. For the first one, I just let FCP downscale the video from the 2704x1524 raw input to 1920x1080. The second portion is the same flight, but it is cropped down to 1920x1080. The latter option is interesting because it shows how much "extra" resolution is available for doing things like post stabilization.

AG500 H3 2 Axis Gimbal Test 02 (5 min 24 sec)


I didn't do anything with the color yet, or with trying other editing tools, but with a 45Mbps data rate, there's a lot detail to work with. I also didn't play with the stabilization function yet, but that is next.

I will get the Shrimps up on the site in the morning. I worked on both the Shrimp and Lobster instructions today, so I hope to get those up as well.

-- Gary
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Old Nov 17, 2012, 06:29 AM
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FL
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GGoodrum View Post
This is exactly right, and I'm using almost exactly the same numbers. For my NEX-5R/24mm CZ lens combo my pitch acc. value is 550 and the roll is 400. With the new Hero3 setup I'm testing, the pitch is at 350 and roll is 250.

Speaking of the Hero3, I was finally able to get a quick test flight in today. I used my F550, because my Shrimp isn't finished yet and I'm still re-wiring my Lobster. It worked okay, but it was a bit breezy, and the poor F550 was struggling to stay in one place. I will say the new v1.6 WKM firmware works a lot better. I'm not sure what they did to the "secret sauce", but I'm hoping some of it makes it into the Naza code, at some point. Anyway, with the older firmware, I think I might have lost it today, a couple of times.

I had the H3 set to the 2.7k/30p mode, and I edited two versions, and both are in the video. For the first one, I just let FCP downscale the video from the 2704x1524 raw input to 1920x1080. The second portion is the same flight, but it is cropped down to 1920x1080. The latter option is interesting because it shows how much "extra" resolution is available for doing things like post stabilization.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L060qwcsuoU&sns=em

I didn't do anything with the color yet, or with trying other editing tools, but with a 45Mbps data rate, there's a lot detail to work with. I also didn't play with the stabilization function yet, but that is next.

I will get the Shrimps up on the site in the morning. I worked on both the Shrimp and Lobster instructions today, so I hope to get those up as well.

-- Gary
Wow, look at that. you can't tell much difference from the high res resized to the 1080 crop, that's awesome. The one issue go pro still has is light. It seems very hazy there today so that is making it diffused or the little bit less light is. Gopro seems to excel in bright sunlight, imagery gets sharper. Unless it just looks soft because of fog/haze. Either way, lots of real estate. Can you send me the raw clip from this? I'd like to mess with post stabilization and color correction for kicks. I have a dropbox I can send you tonight.


Hey, question: Why not use a dampening plate mount for the go pro too? Like the one for the rx100. The go pro isn't good with vibes either. Mix that with the OIS and it should be perfect.
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Last edited by Wingbreaker; Nov 17, 2012 at 06:35 AM.
Old Nov 17, 2012, 08:14 AM
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Canada, NS, Halifax
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GGoodrum View Post

I didn't do anything with the color yet, or with trying other editing tools, but with a 45Mbps data rate, there's a lot detail to work with. I also didn't play with the stabilization function yet, but that is next.

-- Gary
Gary the stabilization you mentioned, is that in Cineform or are you saying it is in the Hero3 itself? i've not seen any specs that say it has OIS built in so be curious if you can confirm or not.
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Old Nov 17, 2012, 09:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flitelab View Post
Gary the stabilization you mentioned, is that in Cineform or are you saying it is in the Hero3 itself? i've not seen any specs that say it has OIS built in so be curious if you can confirm or not.
I think you are right. Either way 2.7 k is a big playing field for post stab. Does it come with free software or something?
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Old Nov 17, 2012, 09:06 AM
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Germany, NRW, Oberhausen
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GGoodrum View Post
There's no way a MKS BLS950 will fit on that gimbal, in either position. This gimbal uses mini servos and is really just for very lightweight cameras, like a GoPro.

-- Gary
Hi Gary,

no, that Gimbal uses standard servos.
Actually i fly Futaba 3152.
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Old Nov 17, 2012, 11:32 AM
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Hfg accel. Gain readout

Can anyone tell me if it is normal for the acceleration gain readout in the diagnostics screen to twitch 8-15 points up and down rapidly while the hfg board is completely still and level? I have recalibrated more times than I can count and it still does it.
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