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Old Feb 26, 2012, 02:28 PM
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Glen, What is your cutting process that leaves you with, or causes you to have, sore fingers? Are you knifing out your parts?
carl
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Old Feb 26, 2012, 02:35 PM
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Center section construction.
The leading edge was a bit of a challenge, it is 3 pieces with a couple of miter joints. The angles were cut on the band saw and cleaned up with a sanding block. The pieces were glued up and clamped up for the glue to dry. The leading edge was then pinned to the plan and ribs put in place to mark the horizontal cuts. Another trip to the band saw and a roughed out leading edge was ready.
The leading edge and spar were pinned to the board and construction begins.

Glenn
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Old Feb 26, 2012, 03:37 PM
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I'm in awe of your Exacto stamina and prowess. Cool wing shape and that raked windshield; I'm liking this plane more and more.
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Old Feb 26, 2012, 03:50 PM
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Glenn your leading edge miters look great to me...also that big wide main ply spar should make the wing very rigid.

BTW your a man after my heart, your work bench neatness rivals mine


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Old Feb 26, 2012, 04:46 PM
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Sorry Carl, I missed your question. I was typing when you posted and missed it.

I cut most of the parts with a single edge razor blade. The xacto is used in tight spots or where accuracy is necessary. After hacking out 50 or so parts, my index fingertip starts getting sore from bearing down on the blade.

Thanks guys.
And to think I cleaned the bench off before I started. You sould have seen it before...

A few pics of the nacelle construction.
Center section is now ready to remove from the board as soon as the glue dries.

Glenn
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Old Feb 26, 2012, 06:12 PM
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Very impressive, Glenn!

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Old Feb 26, 2012, 06:55 PM
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Thanks Fuzz.

Lifted the center section off the board and just had to put the fuse on to have a look.

Glenn
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Old Feb 26, 2012, 07:15 PM
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Looks very cool from above.
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Old Feb 26, 2012, 07:30 PM
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Hey Glenn your makeing great headway!!

When this model was designed many years ago it was for rubber power free flight, right?

Almost makes you think the original designers had a crystal ball and knew many years in the future fellows like you were going to add small electric motors to make it fly...

It looks so strong and maybe over designed all those ribs and the chunky plywood main spar. I guess, though the gull wing design and the narrowing of the wings at the fuse with the weight of the nacelles demand a lot of strength near the fuse. You will be sheeting these wing sections, I believe, adding even more strength. I suppose in the rubber flight days they would have been just tissue covered.

It is indeed a "lumber yard", a very cool looking one at that.

Bill
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Old Feb 26, 2012, 08:19 PM
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Thanks Pat. It does look cool from the top.

Yea Bill, it was designed for rubber free flight, but does seem to be a bit overbuilt for that. The ply spar was my idea, the plan calls out for hard balsa or pine. With the motors and landing gear out in the wing the center section needs to be stout.
I think you're right, the design is just about perfect for electric r/c as is.

Now to figure out how the bottom of the nacelles are supposed to go together.
The landing gear will be assembled next then the nacelle bottom halves but I don't feel like bending and soldering wire tonight.

Glenn
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Old Feb 27, 2012, 01:54 PM
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Beautiful work, I am impressed. My 73 year old index fingers spasm nowadays when working on models. Now doing extensive repairs on my old battle worn Tritle C-140 after the elevator servo decided to stick in dive position. Lots of work left in repairing the Tritle Reliant. Good idea to use fresh tested servos in any new model and to test for "notchiness" and replace in models with lots of flying time. HS-55's are too small to attempt fixes for me.
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Old Feb 27, 2012, 03:11 PM
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Not worth it to try to repair them. The problem is the motors and pots wear out and render the things useless. I dump the dead boys in a bag and save them for spare gear sets.

I test new servos with my servo tester set to cycle them at full deflection and full speed. I let them run and if they still are running smooth after 10 minutes or so they pass the burn-in test and are ready for model use.

I'll use new 9 gram servos on this model for R/E/A. Might use 5 gram for the ailerons, one per side.
Might have to use something a bit bigger for the retracts, we'll see how much force is needed once the mechanics are built.
I'll also have to use a seperate BEC to run all these servos. Or, since there will be 3 esc's I might seperate the servo loads and spread them out across all three BEC's.

Glenn
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Old Feb 27, 2012, 04:48 PM
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I remember having to dis-assemble my Kraft, EK,Bantam servos and clean the pots. If they got twitchy, they were carboned up. And even replace the wipers if needed. Fortunately, the servos were big enough to allow you to crawl inside and do this normal maintenance.

Now.. your right, Glenn, they are cheap enough just to replace them. Don't think they use carbon wipers anymore.

Love all those ribs, Glenn. The open structure areas will look nice, covered.

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Old Feb 27, 2012, 05:33 PM
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I even replaced motors in my Bantam midget servos. Used those in 1:12 scale cars and they took a beating!
Think I still have a few of those around here somewhere, and one might work good as a retract servo.

Anybody ever split the power from multiple BEC"s to spread the load?
I'm thinking take the red wire from one BEC and power the aileron servos and maybe the rudder servo off of it. Do the same with another BEC, elevator servo and the rx. The last BEC would power only the retract servo.
I can make up a small PCB to split the power and plug the servos into.

Today I scored a roll of lead free solder from work. It's 95% tin 5%silver. Stopped in Ace hardware and got some Alpha Fry Waterflow 2000 acid paste flux. Think it will work?

Going to give it a try on music wire and see if I get better results than the stuff I was using. I think the stabrite solder is 97%Sn 3% Ag?

Glenn
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Last edited by glewis; Feb 27, 2012 at 05:40 PM.
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Old Feb 27, 2012, 10:17 PM
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Hi Glen
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