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Old Jan 24, 2013, 04:19 PM
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United States, TX, San Antonio
Joined Jan 2013
9 Posts
I have noticed everyone seems to follow an image of the ribbon cable pinout on here that is attached.

I have traced everything back to the ribbon cables and the correct pinout is actually the second picture I have attached.

They connect as follows:

Ribbon cable - PIN
1 - Gnd
2 - Pin 4
3 - Pin 6
4 - Pin 12
5 - Pin 11
6 - Gnd
7 - Pin 10
8 - Pin 7
9 - Pin 9
10 - Gnd

Some of these match up with the pinout on the first thread and some don't...I've searched around, with no luck, for an actual pinout of this power supply.

This seems to be the way everyone else is following it:

Ribbon Cable - PIN
1 - Gnd
2 - Gnd
3 - Pin 6
4 - Pin 12
5 - Pin 4
6 - Pin 9
7 - Pin 10
8 - Pin 7
9 - Pin 11
10 - Gnd

I have tried wiring it the way I traced it out and the ways that are on here and everything gives me the same results....Im lost as to what in the hell is going on. I am getting anywhere from 11-12.5 volts but none of these are allowing my fan speed to kick on to high. I am not wiring it so the fan speed slows down.

EDIT:

Ok so when I originally traced everything today I was backwards on the pins, got everything right now.....So hooking up 1,7,3 to ground with my trace out I get the fan kicking in high and the unit outputting 12.44v. I hooked up 6 aswell and it didn't change anything, went ahead and left it that way though.
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Last edited by override; Jan 24, 2013 at 07:44 PM.
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Old Jan 24, 2013, 10:37 PM
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Salem, Oregon
Joined Dec 2008
125 Posts
Tie 1,2,4 & 5 from the ribbon cable to DC ground (yes, all four of them to ground). You should see about 12.5 volts output and the fan will be at full speed.

Here's how the pins on the output block & ribbon wires match up:

PIN .......... Ribbon Wire ....... Description
. 1 ............ N/A ...................... +5VSB
. 2 ............ N/A ...................... +5VSB
. 3 ............ N/A ...................... +5VSB
. 4 ............ 3 .......................... Fan speed, ground for minimum speed. (For variable speed use ~4.6v to Vcc.)
. 5 ............ N/A ...................... -12V
. 6 ............ 5 .......................... PsKill, ground this and PsOn to turn on the PS.
. 7 ............ 6 .......................... +S (positive sense)
. 8 ............ N/A ...................... DC ground
. 9 ............ 8 .......................... -S (negative sense)
10 ............ 4 .......................... PsOn, ground this and PsKill to turn on the PS.
11 ............ 9 .......................... Current Share
12 ............ 7 .......................... Power OK/Fault (OK = 3.8V, Fault = 0V).
N/A .......... 1 .......................... Ground from the output board back to the main board (needs to be tied to DC ground).
N/A .......... 2 .......................... Ground from the output board back to the main board (needs to be tied to DC ground).
N/A ........ 10 .......................... Ground from the output board back to the main board (not needed).
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Old Jan 25, 2013, 09:07 AM
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United States, TX, San Antonio
Joined Jan 2013
9 Posts
I did find this information but my point was that the way everyone labels the ribbon cable is incorrect. If someone had the information "ribbon wires 1,2,4,5 to ground" without knowing how everyone labels the ribbon cable they would not be able to get the unit to turn on.
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Old Jan 25, 2013, 05:40 PM
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Salem, Oregon
Joined Dec 2008
125 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by override View Post
I did find this information but my point was that the way everyone labels the ribbon cable is incorrect. If someone had the information "ribbon wires 1,2,4,5 to ground" without knowing how everyone labels the ribbon cable they would not be able to get the unit to turn on.
To clarify, there are two ways of counting the pins on IDC ribbon cables. The first, and more common method, is odd pins on one side and even pins on the other side. This method makes the wire count consecutive on the ribbon cable. The other way, which appears to be the method you're using, is 1 to n/2 on one side and (n/2) +1 to n on the other side. The second method gives you the 1-6-2-7... wire count on the ribbon cable (as you pointed out). Neither method is 'wrong'. Examples attached.

When we say "tie 1,2,4 & 5 from the ribbon cable ..." we're referring to the cable with the connector removed. The red wire is #1, the rest count consecutive as in the first example above.
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Old Jan 27, 2013, 03:47 PM
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Victorville, CA
Joined Jun 2006
1,114 Posts
I have a couple of these coming to build as a 24V supply for my new PL8. They have a 30 day return policy so I feel I should test them right off before I make any mods on them. Can I just short pins 6,8&10 together and hook up my PL8 with alligator clips to test each unit separately? I just want to make sure they are working before I take them apart. I have read this entire thread but my head is spinning from all the different mods that have been done. Not sure just yet which way I will go but want to make sure the units I get are sound,

Thanks, Terry
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Old Jan 27, 2013, 03:53 PM
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United States, AZ, Gilbert
Joined Jul 2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by still4given View Post
I have a couple of these coming to build as a 24V supply for my new PL8. They have a 30 day return policy so I feel I should test them right off before I make any mods on them. Can I just short pins 6,8&10 together and hook up my PL8 with alligator clips to test each unit separately? I just want to make sure they are working before I take them apart. I have read this entire thread but my head is spinning from all the different mods that have been done. Not sure just yet which way I will go but want to make sure the units I get are sound,

Thanks, Terry
That's what I do. Well, sort of, I have a dummy load I hook them up to. I wouldn't run them at very high current or for very long with just alligator clips but you could do low current and make sure they power up. I have only had a couple test bad out of many, so you will probably be fine. And, yes, 6, 8, 10 are the correct pins if you are using the pin method (as opposed to ribbon cable). Start counting from the top left most pin and go across to the right.

Jeremy
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Old Jan 27, 2013, 05:44 PM
Use the 4S Luke
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USA, TX, Euless
Joined Aug 2003
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If you test them under load with alligator clips they will tell you. Can you say HOT?
I have a few out of every hundred that don't pass the load test. Some are completely dead.
I was at a place and the guy showed me that they tested the power supply by plugging it into a server chassis and powering it up. As soon as the green light and fan came on (less than 5 seconds) he pulled the power and declared it a working unit. Not much of a test.
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Old Jan 27, 2013, 06:09 PM
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United States, AZ, Gilbert
Joined Jul 2010
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Yeah, I run the ones I sell under full load for a while before I declare it a working unit, just power it up for 5 sec doesn't prove that it works at all.
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Old Jan 27, 2013, 07:01 PM
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still4given's Avatar
Victorville, CA
Joined Jun 2006
1,114 Posts
Hmm, it will be interesting to see if the alligator clips will have more trouble than the banana plugs. I've use them at the deep cycle many times at full power without issue. Hard to believe they provide a weaker connection than a spade shoved in the slot. It won't be for long anyway, I just want to make sure they work. I'll probably put an amp/watt meter in between them too just to see what kind of amperage they are putting out.

Thanks, Terry
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Old Jan 27, 2013, 07:07 PM
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United States, AZ, Gilbert
Joined Jul 2010
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I run them up to about 10-12 amps with the alligator clips, but not for very long. One of these days I should really push it to see how high I can go and how hot they will get...I always test the PSUs for an extended period of time after I have the bullets/EC5s soldered in place.
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Old Jan 27, 2013, 07:24 PM
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Victorville, CA
Joined Jun 2006
1,114 Posts
OK, I'll set the PL8 to limit the input to 10A for the test. I plan to initially just hook it up using the pins and solder on some 10ga wire to an EC5 to mate to the PL8. Eventually I will probably pull the hot swap plate and do the wiring internally. May just leave it as the former. I don't plan to mount it in a case or anything. I like having the PL8 just sitting on the table to keep the Paraboards laying flat.
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Old Jan 29, 2013, 10:12 PM
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Victorville, CA
Joined Jun 2006
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Well the two units arrived today. I grabbed a old servo plug, pulled the plastic holder off, stripped the ends and twisted them together. I plugged them onto 6,8 & 10 on the units and hooked up the PL8 set to limit the input to 10 amps since I was using alligator clips on the PL8. Each of them sat right at 12.54V and 10A. Alls good so I opened up one of them and snipped the little wires and pulled the one screw and CA'ed a piece of shrink tubing between the PCB and and the lug, checked for continuity and it was good to go. I used some double sided foam tape to stick the two units together and wired them up. I used the servo plug ends to make up the jumpers. Grounded pin 4 while I was at it. I used 10ga silicone wire for the leads and soldered a deans on the end cause I didn't have an EC5 handy. I already had a deans to EC5 adapter so all is good. I hooked up the PL8 with a Paraboard to 6 4S 5000mAh packs and set the PL8 to 40A charge. The PL8 pulled about 26A from the DPS-600PB. Charged the 6 packs from storage charge to full in 25 minutes. I'm very happy with it. The whole process took about an hour including getting out the soldering iron and setting it up. I can see why some of you guys started converting these for sale.

Add in that I got the pair for $24.99 shipped to my door and it is about the best money I have spent is a while. Thanks for all the help
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Old Jan 29, 2013, 11:22 PM
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United States, AZ, Gilbert
Joined Jul 2010
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Good job still4given! It is a sweet set up. It takes me about 20 min to charge 6 4s 2500mah lipos on mine, I love it! As far as the time to build, don't forget to include the time you spent reading this thread and gettin all educated up to make the thing , probably well over an hour all things considered when you really start to add all that.
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Old Jan 29, 2013, 11:52 PM
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Victorville, CA
Joined Jun 2006
1,114 Posts
Oh yeah, I spent many hours reading this thread as well as the "A simple high quality 12Volt 100Amp Power Supply- Part1" thread. I saw that you started out as one asking "how to"' before you started building them yourself. Can't get much simpler than these units. I happened to have all the stuff I needed to so not trips to the store or anything. I'm sure I could do one even faster if I were to do another one. Easily do ten a day of I had all the parts I needed ahead of time. Thing is, I won't need any more. I already have a 30A/18V and a 20A/13.8 PS for my smaller chargers so I'm good to go for now.
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Old Jan 30, 2013, 12:06 AM
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United States, AZ, Gilbert
Joined Jul 2010
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Indeed, I started from the beginning like you. It's been quite the journey. I do have to say it takes me longer than an hour though, but I am covering them (that actually is harder than you think because the whole case is like one big heat sink and you have to heat up the covering but the case takes all the heat from the iron and just spreads it out) and building the switched power cord with each one I sell and the jumper for series connection and then all the little stuff like shrink wrap on the leads, fan grills, feet, putting the little stickers on for voltage indicators, my logo and the product sticker, testing them under load on the water cooled dummy load I built for this purpose, finally printing the packing slip boxing and shipping them. When I first started I timed it as about 3.5 hours from start to finish for each one, but I think I have gotten faster with practice. My wife also helps with the shipping and covering. I am impressed at her covering skills, she does as good or better a job than I do .
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