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Old Jan 13, 2013, 01:18 AM
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United States, AZ, Gilbert
Joined Jul 2010
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Originally Posted by RappyTappy View Post
I think that may be what I missed. So would removing the ground connection in the Y harness AC power cable for supply #2 work? or remove the connection for #1? Thanks for your help.
That would work, but it's much better to isolate DC only. By cutting the ground pin you are isolating DC and AC from ground. Search the thread for DC isolation or floating DC and you should find pictures of how to do it.
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Old Jan 13, 2013, 09:48 AM
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Las Vegas, NV
Joined Nov 2008
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got it figured out, just had a problem with my Y adapter for AC ground. all fixed and working like a charm. Thanks for your time.
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Old Jan 13, 2013, 08:25 PM
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United States, AZ, Gilbert
Joined Jul 2010
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Originally Posted by RappyTappy View Post
got it figured out, just had a problem with my Y adapter for AC ground. all fixed and working like a charm. Thanks for your time.
No problem. Glad you got it working. Again, I would try to get the DC isolated instead of AC when you get a chance.
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Old Jan 20, 2013, 11:47 AM
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United States, MA
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Hi guys. I just finished modifying my single (12V) DPS-600PB to try and increase the voltage. My 106B+ charger can only take 18V max, and doesn't reach its full wattage output unless it has somewhere around 13.7V, per the manual.

So I bought a 10kOhm potentiometer, and connected it between the +S and -S pins (7 & 9), per instructions I'd read here. I adjusted the the pot to raise the output voltage up from the stock 12.5V, to 13.6V. I'd read that the PS over-voltage protection is around 13.8V.

I tried the biggest charge load I could manage with my charger, which pulled around 19A from the PS, at ~13.5V. Everything seemed fine. So I hit the Stop button on the charger, since I wasn't actually trying to charge the packs, just doing a test. When I did, the charger shut off.

Short form, the power supply's output shuts down if I have a charge going, then suddenly stop it, depending on the PS output voltage I've set. Did some testing, it will survive a charge-cancelling at 13.25V and lower, even when drawing 19A. But by 13.4V output, the PS will shut down when I cancel a charge, even a slower one that was only drawing ~5A from the power supply.

My assumption is that the sudden removal of the load from the PS results in a brief output voltage spike, which exceeds the overvoltage limit? Does this sound normal, or did I do something wrong? Thanks.
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Old Jan 20, 2013, 11:55 AM
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So. Cal.
Joined Oct 2004
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Originally Posted by RedOctobyr View Post
My assumption is that the sudden removal of the load from the PS results in a brief output voltage spike, which exceeds the overvoltage limit? Does this sound normal, or did I do something wrong? Thanks.
Your assumption is absolutely correct and it's perfectly normal. Your PS is experiencing an OV fault due to the response lag of the switching output.

This behavior is absolutely expected and unavoidable when a load is abruptly removed from a switching PS. There are ways to minimize this but the simplest is to drop voltage a bit.

Mark
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Old Jan 20, 2013, 01:42 PM
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United States, MA
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Great, thank you for the quick reply, I appreciate it. I will simply leave the voltage set a little lower, I'll stay with the 13.25V for now and see how that goes.
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Old Jan 20, 2013, 03:02 PM
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Canada, BC, Vancouver
Joined Apr 2012
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Originally Posted by RedOctobyr View Post
Hi guys. I just finished modifying my single (12V) DPS-600PB to try and increase the voltage. My 106B+ charger can only take 18V max, and doesn't reach its full wattage output unless it has somewhere around 13.7V, per the manual.

So I bought a 10kOhm potentiometer, and connected it between the +S and -S pins (7 & 9), per instructions I'd read here. I adjusted the the pot to raise the output voltage up from the stock 12.5V, to 13.6V. I'd read that the PS over-voltage protection is around 13.8V.

I tried the biggest charge load I could manage with my charger, which pulled around 19A from the PS, at ~13.5V. Everything seemed fine. So I hit the Stop button on the charger, since I wasn't actually trying to charge the packs, just doing a test. When I did, the charger shut off.

Short form, the power supply's output shuts down if I have a charge going, then suddenly stop it, depending on the PS output voltage I've set. Did some testing, it will survive a charge-cancelling at 13.25V and lower, even when drawing 19A. But by 13.4V output, the PS will shut down when I cancel a charge, even a slower one that was only drawing ~5A from the power supply.

My assumption is that the sudden removal of the load from the PS results in a brief output voltage spike, which exceeds the overvoltage limit? Does this sound normal, or did I do something wrong? Thanks.
I've had the same issue (the only difference is I only used a one k pot). I did a little testing using an icharger 208b and 3010b simultaniously pulling 45a together and it seems to finnish the charge nicely with the voltage set at 13.70 (each ps). I don't cancel the process very often when it's at full pull so I imagine it'll be ok. It seems anywhere above 13.70 (even 13.72) it will trip OV while charging near 45a somewhere durring the charge. Even with that much load with the ps fans all out they don't get much hotter than 75 degrees (on the ps case)
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Old Jan 22, 2013, 07:13 AM
Use the 4S Luke
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Joined Aug 2003
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FWIW the 208B requires >17V in to reach full output. Input voltage range is 4.5-32V.
The 310B input voltage is 4.5-38V
So you should probably consider a 24V supply made from two 12V supplies.
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Old Jan 22, 2013, 07:46 AM
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Joined Apr 2012
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Thanks Feather, actually I am running 2 dps600's in series for a total of 27.4 volts, I imagine its the only way I'd be getting 45a out of my chargers. Sorry I didn't think to mention it as the referenced post was using a 12v setup but I set each ps to 13.70v each so I thought I'd share my experience.
I finally finished my charging case last week so I'm trying to find time to post a couple pics here, as it was this thread that motivated me to try it in the first place and frankly I wouldn't have been able to pull it off with out all the great input here.
So thanks feathermerchant and all other contributors!!

Quote:
Originally Posted by feathermerchant View Post
FWIW the 208B requires >17V in to reach full output. Input voltage range is 4.5-32V.
The 310B input voltage is 4.5-38V
So you should probably consider a 24V supply made from two 12V supplies.
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Old Jan 22, 2013, 05:49 PM
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Thanks for the info hawkeye70. Agreed, I don't often cancel a charge in mid-stream. I'd have to test it to see if finishing a charge normally, when it tapers the current down, is still enough to trip out the PS.

Out of curiosity, if you cancel a powerful charge in the middle, do yours shut off?
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Old Jan 22, 2013, 08:34 PM
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Canada, BC, Vancouver
Joined Apr 2012
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Yup it does, even at 13.70 each ps (27.4 total). I found that I can charge 4 6s 5000 packs between the two chargers fully with the above voltage but if I have them set to 13.72 each it will trip OV while charging. I could have turned them down a little more but I wanted the highest voltage I could run. Like I said I don't really cancel charging mid charge very often so I'll take the chance, my charge case is set up with external power switches so its not hard for me to reset. I don't think it will hurt anything when OV kicks in. Maybe someone a little more experienced with these PS's could chime in on that.

:cheers
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Old Jan 24, 2013, 12:07 PM
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United States, TX, San Antonio
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Has anyone had one of these go out? I've been slowly getting everything together to set these up in a case. Today I added some length of wire to the status light and wired up ribbon pins 4 and 5 to -12v off the board. When I plug everything in to test I get a bunch of clicking noise that was never there. I double checked everything and even desoldered the power switch I added. Still getting the clicking noises though, so my only guess is the PS died.
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Old Jan 24, 2013, 12:35 PM
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United States, AZ, Gilbert
Joined Jul 2010
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Originally Posted by override View Post
Has anyone had one of these go out? I've been slowly getting everything together to set these up in a case. Today I added some length of wire to the status light and wired up ribbon pins 4 and 5 to -12v off the board. When I plug everything in to test I get a bunch of clicking noise that was never there. I double checked everything and even desoldered the power switch I added. Still getting the clicking noises though, so my only guess is the PS died.
Don't know if this is what happened to yours or not, but when you are isolating DC and you are cutting the two little wires on the PCB, if you are not careful you can accidentally cut the PCB board right directly behind the wires which has metal in it that leads up to the fan. This has the effect of making the PSU think the fan is not connected (actually, the fan is not connected because it was cut). If it doesn't get a tach pulse from the fan it will protect itself and not power up. I know because I did this to about 6 of them before I figured out what I did wrong. They just made a clicking noise as you are describing. Then I opened the case and realized that I had made scratches on the PCB when I was trying to cut the wires, I used my voltmeter and determined that these were the wires leading to the fan and the scratches I had made actually cut them. I scrapped those PSUs because I figured it was more hassle than it was worth to repair them.
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Old Jan 24, 2013, 01:18 PM
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United States, TX, San Antonio
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It's not that, I actually did not cut those wires. I pulled up the ground feet on the board and have not had an issue out with that since. The fan spins at a slow speed and with my ohm meter if I touch pins 6-8-10 it will not turn on. On my second power supply that has DC ground intact it does the same clicking noise. When I put the hot swap board back on the clicking noise goes away. When I was checking everything the second PS turned off and will not turn back on.

I'm under the impression according to the pinouts I have found on this thread that if you short pins 4 and 5 off the ribbon cable to ground it powers the unit on. I have also read connecting pins 4 and 5 together and shorting pins 1 and 2 to ground on the ribbon cable. I used the first method and shorted 4 and 5 to the -12v that ties to the hot swap board.
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Old Jan 24, 2013, 01:27 PM
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United States, VA, Richmond
Joined Feb 2010
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Originally Posted by override View Post
It's not that, I actually did not cut those wires. I pulled up the ground feet on the board and have not had an issue out with that since. The fan spins at a slow speed and with my ohm meter if I touch pins 6-8-10 it will not turn on. On my second power supply that has DC ground intact it does the same clicking noise. When I put the hot swap board back on the clicking noise goes away. When I was checking everything the second PS turned off and will not turn back on.

I'm under the impression according to the pinouts I have found on this thread that if you short pins 4 and 5 off the ribbon cable to ground it powers the unit on. I have also read connecting pins 4 and 5 together and shorting pins 1 and 2 to ground on the ribbon cable. I used the first method and shorted 4 and 5 to the -12v that ties to the hot swap board.
1,2 to - then tie 4,5,8 together. On the ribbon.
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