Dusey52 asked me to get some data with my dummy load I thought I would share with the community here. It is the voltage on pin 11 (the current share pin) at each current level of the DPS-600PB. Someone could use this data to build a fan speed control based on current draw (although temperature is the preferred way to control the fan speed) or an amp meter without the need of a high current shunt. I am not going to do it, but someone else definately could.

If you plot the below in Excel you will see that it is linear.
Amps on load/Voltage on pin 11
0/0.45
1/0.47
2/0.63
3/0.84
4/1.00
5/1.06
6/1.31
7/1.47
8/1.68
9/1.79
10/1.93
11/2.10
12/2.24
13/2.41
14/2.58
15/2.68
16/2.91
17/3.18
18/3.30
19/3.66
20/3.91
21/4.08
22/4.17
23/4.36
24/4.43
25/4.60
26/4.79
27/4.86
28/4.99
29/5.18
30/5.30
31/5.44
32/5.63
33/5.79
34/5.84
35/6.07
36/6.20
37/6.46
38/6.55
39/6.67
40/6.84
41/7.05
42/7.23
43/7.37
44/7.65
45/7.89
46/8.04
47/8.17
48/8.28
49/8.39
50/8.59

Originally Posted by jocanon

For anyone that's interested, here is a link to a video of the dummy load I made to test these PSUs..

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t5rglrH168E&sns=em

I have been blowing TVS's on my dummy load, my latest theory is that it's a faulty PSU. I am going to go home tonight and test out that theory by using a different PSU on my dummy load (I have always been using the same PSU everytime the TVS blew). One thing that makes me think it is a faulty PSU is that the isolated PSU's volatage gets unstable as current increases above about 30 or 40 amps. Has anyone else experienced this?

Update:
Tried it with a different isolate DPS-600PB. The voltage is 25v at no current and only drops .2 volts to 24.8 at 47amps but it is a solid 24.8 amps, not fluctuating around like the other one, so I think the problem was a faulty PSU after all, it was spiking up to 170v!, according to one $5 volt meter, but according to another $5 volt meter it was bouncing all around but mostly staying below 21v (which one to believe, hmm probably the high one since it was blowing the TVS diode). This is a good reason that shows why I built this dummy load in the first place, so I can test each PSU to make sure it's not faulty.

Nice job on the load!

Thanks! It was fun

Hey guys, Great thread! Thanks to all contributors!!!

I am about to embark on one of these builds, Two DPS-600PB's fro 24v in series. I plan to try to keep as much as possible external to make for easy swapping down the road. I will use servo connectors for the pin outs, float one dc (internal of course) and then either solder 10ga directly to the output blades or use a connector of some kind. I think I can handle that part without problems but I want to install it all in a pelican case with a plexi divider. I have done a fair bit of soldering and household electrical so I won't do anything to hurt myself. Where I'm hoping to get a little help is with the switches I want to put in, unfortunately my ambition exceeds my knowledge.

I plan to Y two cords in the case up to a female plug on the plexi so I can just plug one cord at the field.
I would like to wire in two power switches, one for one supply 12v and when the second switch is flipped on the second supply for 24v (one switch on ps, 2 switch second supply). How would I wire the switches (on-off) just + from the female plug to the switch down to the ps and same with - then ground direct from female plug to ps?

then I would like to wire a switch to reduce the PS fans, one position for full fan and the other position for about half power fans (both fans one switch). I picked up a couple 20ohm resistors, so would I just wire one blade on the switch to a resistor ground and pin 4 then leave the other blade open? and would I need a on-on or would a on-off work?

Then finally I plan on on installing two CPU fans in the plexi (one in on out), does it matter where I take power from as long as it's dc from the 12v supply?

Thanks for any help guys, let's keep this thread going!!. I will probably post a Case build thread if it all works out.

Cheers

FYI, though server power supplies (any) are rated at xx amps, it is best to leave a 20% window in there if operating at >70F ambient; simular to ESC's. Server rooms are kept under 75F, many in the 60's. Ha ha, I may get that low in winter here in Arizona.

I popped one a few months ago at 105F pushing at 95% output with two is series/24V and isolated DC ground internally.

Rick

Originally Posted by rampman

FYI, though server power supplies (any) are rated at xx amps, it is best to leave a 20% window in there if operating at >70F ambient; simular to ESC's. Server rooms are kept under 75F, many in the 60's. Ha ha, I may get that low in winter here in Arizona.

I popped one a few months ago at 105F pushing at 95% output with two is series/24V and isolated DC ground internally.

Rick

I totally agree...

Originally Posted by rampman

...Server rooms are kept under 75F, many in the 60's. Ha ha, I may get that low in winter here in Arizona....

Nice to see someone from my old stomping grounds. I was born and raised in Mesa, AZ, it does get hot there (like 120's)! I miss the heat though now that I am in Buffalo, NY.

Best bet if you are running these in hot weather is either to NOT mod the fan by slowing it down, or put a temp sensor circuit in there so it will sense when it's hot and speed up to full speed. I am working on perfecting one right now (a temp control circuit that is). And I would agree giving yourself some head room amps wise is a good idea also.

Jeremy

FWTW, I run them here in Texas. Not as hot as AZ but unter our 'shade' we are cooked from above. On a 100 deg day, the table tops are ~114 and the metal roof is about 140.
The DPS600's don't seem to mind.

Originally Posted by feathermerchant

FWTW, I run them here in Texas. Not as hot as AZ but unter our 'shade' we are cooked from above. On a 100 deg day, the table tops are ~114 and the metal roof is about 140.
The DPS600's don't seem to mind.

With or without the fan mod?

Anybody??

Originally Posted by hawkeye70

Hey guys, Great thread! Thanks to all contributors!!!

I am about to embark on one of these builds, Two DPS-600PB's fro 24v in series. I plan to try to keep as much as possible external to make for easy swapping down the road. I will use servo connectors for the pin outs, float one dc (internal of course) and then either solder 10ga directly to the output blades or use a connector of some kind. I think I can handle that part without problems but I want to install it all in a pelican case with a plexi divider. I have done a fair bit of soldering and household electrical so I won't do anything to hurt myself. Where I'm hoping to get a little help is with the switches I want to put in, unfortunately my ambition exceeds my knowledge.

I plan to Y two cords in the case up to a female plug on the plexi so I can just plug one cord at the field.
I would like to wire in two power switches, one for one supply 12v and when the second switch is flipped on the second supply for 24v (one switch on ps, 2 switch second supply). How would I wire the switches (on-off) just + from the female plug to the switch down to the ps and same with - then ground direct from female plug to ps?

then I would like to wire a switch to reduce the PS fans, one position for full fan and the other position for about half power fans (both fans one switch). I picked up a couple 20ohm resistors, so would I just wire one blade on the switch to a resistor ground and pin 4 then leave the other blade open? and would I need a on-on or would a on-off work?

Then finally I plan on on installing two CPU fans in the plexi (one in on out), does it matter where I take power from as long as it's dc from the 12v supply?

Thanks for any help guys, let's keep this thread going!!. I will probably post a Case build thread if it all works out.

Cheers

Just curious, but what implications could arise when running three of these PSU's in series? or is it alright as long as you unground two of them (leaving the psu providing the ground, grounded)?

The reason i ask is because Junsi is about to release their iCharger 4010B which can take up to 50v (not sure if i would trust it at that) and put out a total of 2000w. Im not limited by my wall socket (i stay in South Africa an we run 220v with 20A circuit breakers so thats not an issue for me as it might be for some of the US based people on here).

Currently im using a Powerlab 8 which is working perfectly but it would be nice to see a charger putting out 1750w plus to 6s batteries Look forward to a response

Dusey - W/O the fan mod. There are many helicopter pilots at my field.
Noise of 1 helicopter = noise of 100 power supplies W/O fan mod.

Andrew - I can build you a unit that will output 36V (actually 37.5) or a unit that will do 50V.
See my blog. It would be an interesting experiment.

Hello Andrew_ZA.

Why not just get one of these:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/HP-ESP120-22...item3cca315429

Only $40 on Ebay and will do 48V at 57A. That's around 3000w.

Much more than you will need.

This is a very heavy PSU capable of delivering ungodly amounts of power.

HP ESP120 3000w 48V 57A 220V-240V input. Full pinout.

Connect PS On and PS Kill to ground to power up.

Also has an internal pot to adjust voltage.

5Vsb rtn is signal ground.

Originally Posted by rchelijc

Tjinguy's site here was my inspiration, so I followed his pics with success.

The only thing I'd change is shorting pins 6-8-10 instead of the 6-9-10 which he suggested. Reason is posted above...

I have been using the DPS-600 for a year now with no problems. I am just using one for a 12v power supply. I converted it per the TJinTech article. I just now came across this thread. I did not try soldering the pins but rather used the servo leads and twisted and soldered. Is the any advantage to using the 6-8-10 jump over the 6-9-10? I have never done the 4-8 jump to quite the fan, is there any risk of overheating the ps by doing so? It sure would be nice to quite this down some


Regarding this image from above post, if I wanted to connect binding posts would the center two silver round head screws on standoffs be the location internally to connect to? (The red #1 arrow is kind of pointing to them)

Pin 9 is the voltage control pin, so it would limit your output voltage (rchelijc actually pointed that out in the post you are linking).

As far as fan control, I would not recommend slowing the fan without some way to speed it up if needed (i.e. if you are drawing a lot of current or it is running hot). If you think about it, server rooms are kept cool and I am sure they have these fans running full speed when the PSU is working hard because heat will destroy them.

I am working on perfecting a temperature control circuit that will be able to be installed in these fairly easily so that when it is cold the fan will run as slow as grounding pin 4 to 8, but then will speed up linearly and reach max speed when the PSU is at max temperature/current draw. All that will be required to install the circuit is to epoxy a thermistor onto the heat sink, screw the leads down to the binding posts, and solder the 3rd wire on the ribbon to a wire on the circuit I am making. It is not done yet, but very close. I will let you know when it's done if you are interested. I am going to be selling these PSUs with the temperature control circuit already installed, but if you already have the PSU you can buy just the temperature control fan circuit if you are interested. If running two in series, each PSU will need its own temp control fan circuit. I haven't figured out for sure the price yet, need to figure cost of parts and how long it takes to make...

Edit:
Note, the fan does speed up slightly when current increases when pin 4 is grounded to pin 8 without a temperature control circuit installed, I think it is just a result of the noise from the high frequency switching going on inside the PSU. The speed up is only very minor with no circuit installed, not enough to provide proper cooling. At max current if you run it and heat things up as hot as possible the fan will only increase about 2.41 volts. I measured this when experimenting with the PSU hooked up to the dummy load I made. But, the fan needs to speed up to full on when the PSU is at full capacity to really provide proper cooling and preserve the life of your PSU. My temperature control circuit will be tuned to do just that but then allow it to be quieted when the higher speed is not needed (best of both worlds).