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Old Jan 29, 2012, 04:09 PM
Pro beginner
rchelijc's Avatar
Melbourne, Australia
Joined Aug 2010
726 Posts
Gregor99 you must fly a wide range of packs up to 7S or more!

I fly 6S max (2x for 12S) so I shouldn't have that problem with 26V input. I can up the input to 27V without issues.

Those stud diodes I'm assuming also drop 0.7V? So I'll be needing about 2 for each of the 3 that I'd put in series, so 6 diodes all up. Cheapest for 50A with saftety margin, I'm looking at $8 per piece, so $42.

It may not be an ideal solution for me. For $42, what I'm getting is:
  • 3 in series at 50A max at around 10.5V each puts out just 1575W in total...
  • I have 6x0.7Vx50A = 210W (max) of heat dissipated by the diodes inside my case somewhere
  • That kind of power output can only drive my PL8 at max.
  • It won't be adequate if I intend to run another charger.

By the way, which chargers require 31-32V to max out it's power rating?
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Old Jan 29, 2012, 05:59 PM
Steven
xandrios's Avatar
United States, CT, East Hartford
Joined May 2010
504 Posts
Hey rchelijc,

it's should be very easy to lower the voltage on the dps-600pb.

No diodes or step down needed.

Try a 1k pot between the -12v pin and the voltage control pin.

This works on my PS-3601-1C version of the dps-600pb.

I can get it down to 8v but just cant get over 30A of current

because OCP seems to drop with voltage.

I don't have a dps-600pb in my possesion, so I don't know how much

current you can draw from it at 10v.
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Old Jan 29, 2012, 06:33 PM
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Harry H's Avatar
Los Angeles
Joined Oct 2010
1,514 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by rchelijc View Post
Are you planning cover the top with polycarb or acrylic?

I had to build in two extra fans to ensure good circulation, and because I didn't like cutting holes in the case, which others have done.

I prefer to have the whole thing retain it's waterproof properties
Looks like I missed quite a bit my MacBook Pro took a dive and I'm now on my iPhone responding. I will be adding a plexiglass barrier and fans much like you did. I might even go for the bling like you did. Continuity all checked out fine just waiting for some parts.

Harry
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Old Jan 29, 2012, 09:37 PM
Registered User
Seattle
Joined Sep 2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rchelijc View Post
Gregor99 you must fly a wide range of packs up to 7S or more!
I fly 6S max (2x for 12S) so I shouldn't have that problem with 26V input. I can up the input to 27V without issues.
1s 130mah to 12s 5300 mah(two 6s in series, charged as 6s). I'm not sure how easy the toggle is to detect on the iChargers. You may need some external monitoring.
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Old Jan 29, 2012, 10:28 PM
Pro beginner
rchelijc's Avatar
Melbourne, Australia
Joined Aug 2010
726 Posts
I kinda know how a buck boost works, but could you help explain what are the effects during charging? Like for instance I know that with 26V charging max 25.2V cells, there might be a period where in order to squeeze 40A into the cells, it might have to output more than 26V.

But what are the effects as if moves from buck, to boost, then buck again towards the CV phase?
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Old Jan 30, 2012, 03:57 AM
Pro beginner
rchelijc's Avatar
Melbourne, Australia
Joined Aug 2010
726 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Harry H View Post
Looks like I missed quite a bit my MacBook Pro took a dive and I'm now on my iPhone responding. I will be adding a plexiglass barrier and fans much like you did. I might even go for the bling like you did. Continuity all checked out fine just waiting for some parts.

Harry
Hmmm.. on hindsight, I'm kinda glad some of my LEDs blew - made it look like a badly put together thermaltake case

In it's place, you could easily run you ipod/iphone/ipad hooked to a car audio amp with subs off the 12V. Nothing like good hard gangsta (or doof doof) while you charge lipos. The plus is you'll no longer notice the irritating high pitched fans.

Sorry about your Mac.
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Old Jan 31, 2012, 05:17 AM
Where's my orange kool-aid?
xzuberance's Avatar
Australia, VIC, Boronia
Joined Apr 2010
714 Posts
Nice... I wish I have one or know how to build one, but I would be the guy which you describe as poking around with a screwdriver while trying to read instructions with the PSU on... and this would be my last post
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Old Jan 31, 2012, 06:46 AM
Pro beginner
rchelijc's Avatar
Melbourne, Australia
Joined Aug 2010
726 Posts
Poke less in PSUs and post more instead
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Old Jan 31, 2012, 08:25 AM
You're killin' me Smalls
BrownEyedFool's Avatar
United States, NJ, Hillsborough Township
Joined Sep 2011
1,334 Posts
Posting to ask questions on RCG is not going to cause you to die.

Poking around inside a power supply with a screwdriver could.

If you don't know what you're doing inside a PSU, don't go inside the thing, send feathermerchant a PM and get one made, or stick to 12V that you do yourself for now, many of those can be converted without cracking the case.

By the way rchelijc, thanks for the pics of an awesome build, but you do realize you are a sick, sick man for toting that amount of power to the field don't you?
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Old Jan 31, 2012, 09:27 AM
Where's my orange kool-aid?
xzuberance's Avatar
Australia, VIC, Boronia
Joined Apr 2010
714 Posts
Interesting read in this and your other thread. Not that I fully understand everything, but I reckon I'm 2% smarter about the whole thing than before I read your threads.

BTW, you sure you only one 1 15x7 prop from PA? Not often we get free shipping. I suggest you get 2... but its your money
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Old Jan 31, 2012, 09:30 AM
Where's my orange kool-aid?
xzuberance's Avatar
Australia, VIC, Boronia
Joined Apr 2010
714 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by BrownEyedFool View Post
Posting to ask questions on RCG is not going to cause you to die.

Poking around inside a power supply with a screwdriver could.

If you don't know what you're doing inside a PSU, don't go inside the thing, send feathermerchant a PM and get one made, or stick to 12V that you do yourself for now, many of those can be converted without cracking the case.

By the way rchelijc, thanks for the pics of an awesome build, but you do realize you are a sick, sick man for toting that amount of power to the field don't you?
That's exactly what I meant and I don't propose to do it. I only wished that I have the ability to do.

Yes... that machine is sick and so is its maker... but the blue lights are sooo cool
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Old Jan 31, 2012, 12:24 PM
Learnin mo ever day
United States, NJ, Tinton Falls
Joined Jul 2007
139 Posts
rchelijc do the on/off switches wired as shown in your wiring diagram turn off the PSU mounted fans? I have read other posts where people say that the output turns off, but the fans keep running. I am building a 24V pair and want to install an on/off low voltage switch such as yours, so as not to switch the input line.
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Old Jan 31, 2012, 02:01 PM
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Joined Jun 2011
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wire gauge

Im going to be building a 24v power setup and Im wondering what wire gauge should I use. I have some 12 gauge silicone wire around but it seems small. Any info would be helpful thanks
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Old Jan 31, 2012, 03:53 PM
Pro beginner
rchelijc's Avatar
Melbourne, Australia
Joined Aug 2010
726 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by wjbender View Post
rchelijc do the on/off switches wired as shown in your wiring diagram turn off the PSU mounted fans? I have read other posts where people say that the output turns off, but the fans keep running. I am building a 24V pair and want to install an on/off low voltage switch such as yours, so as not to switch the input line.
The switches on the top left - No they don't turn off the fans, but reduce them to minimal speed though. Fans are running, +5V rail is ACTIVE, but 12V rails are off. Basically it's wired to toggle between standby and ON.

The switches on the right however switch A/C input, active line (you can go neutral but I feel safer switching on active). These switch AC input, so they switch the PSUs OFF to STANDBY if the top left switch if OFF, and OFF to ON is te top left switch is ON
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Last edited by rchelijc; Jan 31, 2012 at 04:35 PM. Reason: AHH - deleted, fixing order of posts / quote - apologies
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Old Jan 31, 2012, 04:02 PM
Pro beginner
rchelijc's Avatar
Melbourne, Australia
Joined Aug 2010
726 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by tonyd12 View Post
Im going to be building a 24v power setup and Im wondering what wire gauge should I use. I have some 12 gauge silicone wire around but it seems small. Any info would be helpful thanks
8 gauge - probably overkill, and you do need at least an 80W soldering iron, but for peace of mind it's priceless!

More specifically, I believe I used 10 gauge from all psu rails to 6mm bullet sockets, then from bullets to output posts, 8 gauge. You'll have to trim a bit to solder in the bullets for the 8's.

For my build the 10 gauge will carry 50A at Max, while the 8 gauge paralels 2 psu's for 100A at max.
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