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Old Oct 03, 2012, 10:45 PM
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United States, KY, Louisville
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Originally Posted by E-Challenged View Post
I am only concerned about how I will like the final look, and the more realistic the look, the more I'll like it. The old Banner streamlite wheels have an ingenious retention method, and look quite scale-like, guess I'll use them until something better becomes available. I plan to use manila folder material to finish off the cabin interior and and lay the two 2200 3S packs (total 6S) in the bottom with velcro and the seats and control sticks on top of them, removable for pack changes. The Astro Cobalt 25G, heavy Astro speed control, UBEC and aluminum Pasquito mount may make the model a little nose-heavy. If this power system and two lipos make the model too heavy to fly slow and scale-like, I may have to go to a much lighter modern brushless system. I love slow graceful flight.This is really just a BIG stick model with a 6-foot one-piece wing. My modelling skills have improved somewhat since I started this build in the 70's and fiddled with it off and on since then
That looks great and you need to get it finished ASAP! Can I make a suggestion? Instead of a manila folder, how about 1/16th hobby plywood. Its uber light, stainable or paintable and won't warp like paper will when painted.
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Old Oct 03, 2012, 10:49 PM
wood is good
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United States, CA, Marina Del Rey
Joined Jun 2012
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I bought the Dubro 1/4-scale Cub lightweight wheels for my 1:5.5-scale GP J-3. They look just about right.
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Old Oct 03, 2012, 10:51 PM
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Are you going for the Tundra look?
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Old Oct 03, 2012, 10:57 PM
wood is good
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United States, CA, Marina Del Rey
Joined Jun 2012
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The bush-plane look doesn't hurt the Cub. Better rough field performance and more ground clearance for a bigger prop are why I went with 1/4-scale wheels:
http://shop.dubro.com/products/produ...5TLC/101.0.1.1

Please drop in at my build thread:
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1742597
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Old Oct 03, 2012, 11:24 PM
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United States, KY, Louisville
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Quote:
Originally Posted by loNslo View Post
The bush-plane look doesn't hurt the Cub. Better rough field performance and more ground clearance for a bigger prop are why I went with 1/4-scale wheels:
http://shop.dubro.com/products/produ...5TLC/101.0.1.1

Please drop in at my build thread:
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1742597
Good luck with it!
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Old Oct 04, 2012, 12:20 PM
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United States, CA, Garden Grove
Joined Oct 2000
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Got E-Flite 25 landing gear in mail today ( ordered yesterday!!). Tried to view pdf cub manual on E-Flite website, wouldn't open, secret is to download pdf to My Documents, then open. Was concerned that shocks didn't work, they were just stuck, short movement action. Look great, need to make axles that work with my old Banner wheels. How many 6 foot rolls of Solartex did you need for your Cub? and where did you get it??
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Old Oct 04, 2012, 01:31 PM
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United States, KY, Louisville
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Originally Posted by E-Challenged View Post
Got E-Flite 25 landing gear in mail today ( ordered yesterday!!). Tried to view pdf cub manual on E-Flite website, wouldn't open, secret is to download pdf to My Documents, then open. Was concerned that shocks didn't work, they were just stuck, short movement action. Look great, need to make axles that work with my old Banner wheels. How many 6 foot rolls of Solartex did you need for your Cub?
They actually move a lot. You probably won't be keeping them white, so when you disassemble them, you'll notice that the two pieces that act like the strut. The one that slips inside the other one is the one that stuck for me. For me to get rid of that, I took a cut off wheel and took a 1/16th" off. Do not taper it afterward. I believe the tapering of the inner rod is what is causing this to lock up. The outer one needs a significant taper to keep it from sticking on the welded bolt that the bungee cord hooks to.

I believe I ordered 4 yrds of the material. I had lots left over. I got my Solartex from my LHS. Scale Reproductions in Louisville KY. Give them a call, they can order it for you and ship it too.

As for the axles. I already had a nice set of wheels on the stock wire. I drilled out the hole in the axle hub of the struts to accept the larger diameter axle. Works fantastic!
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Old Oct 09, 2012, 11:54 AM
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Update Sig Cub. Covering: I ordered Solartex through my LHS but got Solarfilm, returned it, they called around and ordered 21st Centrury Cub Yellow. Read recommendations here and elsewhere favoring Solartex for adhesion without Balsarite, etc. Cancelled order from LHS for 21st Century. Called Balsa USA and ordered 10 meter roll of Solartex Cub Yellow. The E-Flite landing gear will look great. Gotta get cracking on installing servos and wiring and planning of RC gear locations and mounting, cabin sheeting and seats, etc.
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Old Oct 09, 2012, 11:55 PM
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Joined Oct 2012
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i built the same cub with a asp 91 forstorke in it and what a great plane i love the way it fly and with the 91 in it. it really hulls ass!
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Old Oct 10, 2012, 10:41 AM
Visitor from Reality
United States, VA, Arlington
Joined Dec 1996
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Quote:
Originally Posted by E-Challenged View Post
Update Sig Cub. Covering: I ordered Solartex through my LHS but got Solarfilm, returned it, they called around and ordered 21st Centrury Cub Yellow. Read recommendations here and elsewhere favoring Solartex for adhesion without Balsarite, etc. Cancelled order from LHS for 21st Century. Called Balsa USA and ordered 10 meter roll of Solartex Cub Yellow. The E-Flite landing gear will look great. Gotta get cracking on installing servos and wiring and planning of RC gear locations and mounting, cabin sheeting and seats, etc.
That UC will set your Cub off just great. I had the Sig 1/6th clipwing and used the kit's wire UC as it was for a mag review. Didn't look good without a lot of work and whether it looked good or not, it caused bouncing on about every landing.

Your drivetrain is pretty hefty! I forget the motor details of mine - it was a direct drive inrunner, so likely not around any more - but I flew the model on 3S and 4S LiPo and 4S A123 and it was 'well powered' on all The LiPos were not that highly rated - it was a couple of years back - so max power was probably only in the region of 500W on the 4S LiPo.

Like all Sig kits, it was a great flier, shame they kept putting the glow conversion on the plans and forgetting the electric power details... As I can't abide having to figure out which model is mine when its time to go home, she wasn't really all that yellow

D
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Old Oct 10, 2012, 10:46 AM
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United States, CA, Garden Grove
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P-51's should "hull ass", Cubs have 65 hp engines and may fly backwards in a strong headwind. I think that I may just put black sunburst trim on the optional "clip" wing and have leave full length wing etc., plain Cub yaller. Side note: Registration numbers have not been required on wings for a number of years . Sig 1/6 scale Cub kits come with small registration numbers for the fuselage sides.
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Last edited by E-Challenged; Oct 10, 2012 at 11:06 AM.
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Old Oct 10, 2012, 12:23 PM
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United States, KY, Louisville
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That is a killer scheme. Love it!

And the E-flite UC is awesome. I am so glad I took the chance and bought it. Its almost like it was designed for our cub.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dereck View Post
That UC will set your Cub off just great. I had the Sig 1/6th clipwing and used the kit's wire UC as it was for a mag review. Didn't look good without a lot of work and whether it looked good or not, it caused bouncing on about every landing.

Your drivetrain is pretty hefty! I forget the motor details of mine - it was a direct drive inrunner, so likely not around any more - but I flew the model on 3S and 4S LiPo and 4S A123 and it was 'well powered' on all The LiPos were not that highly rated - it was a couple of years back - so max power was probably only in the region of 500W on the 4S LiPo.

Like all Sig kits, it was a great flier, shame they kept putting the glow conversion on the plans and forgetting the electric power details... As I can't abide having to figure out which model is mine when its time to go home, she wasn't really all that yellow

D
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Old Oct 10, 2012, 12:24 PM
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Originally Posted by E-Challenged View Post
P-51's should "hull ass", Cubs have 65 hp engines and may fly backwards in a strong headwind. I think that I may just put black sunburst trim on the optional "clip" wing and have leave full length wing etc., plain Cub yaller. Side note: Registration numbers have not been required on wings for a number of years . Sig 1/6 scale Cub kits come with small registration numbers for the fuselage sides.
Are you building both wings?
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Old Oct 10, 2012, 07:52 PM
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Yup, maybe I can fit the clip wing Cub in my Toyota wagon with wing on. With full size wing will have to transport with wing off. Had separate kit for clip wing alone, but lost plans. Ordered plans for clip wing from Sig, they sent me stock kit plans. I re-ordered plans for the clip wing Cub, now I can build the short wing. FYI:The clip version of wing has 8 inches removed from the root ribs outward on each side and strut attach points are relocated in about center of shortened wings. Ailerons are located and sized the same as on the stock wing. Anxious to learn how "clip" vs stock wing versions fly, I expect clip wing model will stall at higher airspeeds and roll a lot quicker.
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Old Oct 10, 2012, 09:01 PM
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Sweet, I'm looking forward to seeing both versions from you.
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