History: Flyguy came to being after a visit to my local hobby shop where one of the workers showed me a 30 second clip of an RC flying man. I decided I wanted to design and build a flying person while keeping it inexpensive, simple to build and easy to fly. The design has 11 Depron parts and on the larger versions some plywood bracing and 4 carbon fiber stiffeners. Flyguy can easily be built in less than 10 hours and I have built one in as little as 5 hours, with precut parts.

This Build Log is a “how to” step by step process of building a 31” Flyguy using the Birdofplay 3mm Depron cutouts available from Northwest Cutout Service. His website is balsabuddies.com. The plans are also available on the Flyguy discussion thread and are posted here. This build is a first trial of the cutouts. Modifications I mention in the build log should be incorporated in the actual cutouts and plans. With the tabs/slots, it is easy to trial fit every step and is recommended.

I will be using only hobby store available parts to complete Flyguy. Recommended power is 50 to 75w. 50w provides good, advanced trainer performance, while 75w provides unlimited vertical capability. I will be bracing Flyguy31 for up to 75w of power. The Flyguy62 Build Log covers how to personalize the head graphics and is good recommended reading as is the Flyguy46 Build Log. If you follow this process, you will have a durable Flyguy that will fly well.

Flyguy Discussion Thread:

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1505753

Happy flying.

Build: 31 Inch Flyguy from balsabuddies.com Cutouts by Otto Dieffenbach (1 min 6 sec)

First Flight: 31 Inch Flyguy from balsabuddies.com Cutouts by Otto Dieffenbach (3 min 7 sec)

Flyguy31 as Superman.

Airshow: RC Flyguy 31 as Superman by Otto Dieffenbach (1 min 6 sec)

Flyguy31 as Superman with Cape

RC Flyguy 31 dressed as Superman Superhero with Cape by Otto Dieffenbach (2 min 53 sec)

Flyguy Flash Mob in HD (may take some time to load but worth a look).
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature...&v=Bfhp01NWQeM


Step 1

Flyguy is not a slow-fly plane like most Depron foamies; he is more like a balsa shoulder wing trainer. Make sure you do not reduce the prop pitch for slow-fly; he needs to move through the air for effective control.

What you will need. Feel free to substitute with equivalent:

Electronics

A Transmitter that can mix Elevator and Ailerons, Pitch and Roll, for elevons (most have this feature)
Hobby King AX 1806N 2500kv motor
10 amp ESC
50w: 2s 450mah 25c battery and GWS 5x4.3 prop
75w: 3s 450mah 25c battery and GWS 4.5x3 prop
2- HXT 500 servos
Spectrum clone parkflyer receiver

Airframe

balsabuddies.com 31” Flyguy or hand cut one from plans
Dubro hinge tape for electric planes
Music wire 1mm
Foam Safe CA with accelerator
5 minute epoxy
Foam mounting tape

Tools

Sharp knife
Razor saw
Sanding block with 150 grit paper
Flat table/work bench
Small Philips head screwdriver
Pliers and wire cutters
T-pins or equivalent
Small file or nail file (to bevel identified slots)


Here are a full sized PDF set of plans, not a tiled version. Tiling can be accomplished with either Adobe X or Bill Segraves' ScaleAndTile3 software.

The balsabudies package comes as a double pizza box. 2 sheets of 3 mm Depron, well packed.

Take a sharp knife and separate the parts from the sheets. Save the sheets for scrap. Lightly sand the edges in preparation for assembly.

Assemble the center body plate. I use foam safe CA with accelerator. I use disposable gloves to protect the working surface.

I layed the 5" prop on the side and saw that I could reduce the side heigth by 5/16 of an inch. I also needed to remove an additional 3mm from behind the top tab for the arm doubler discussed later in this build. Remove the chest nub so that Flyguy will slide smoothly on landing.

Lay motor with a 1/8" plywood motor mount on the Depron center body plate to locate the prop slot and motor cutout. Make appropriate cuts and glue the Depron in place with Foam Safe CA.

The prop slot location requires the front of the breast plate to be trimmed by 1 1/8 inches.

From 3mm Depron scrap, cut two 4.5 x 0.75 inch doublers and two 9 x 0.75 inch doublers.

Glue the foot doublers in place 1/4 inch from the inner edge. Make sure you make a right and left foot. Glue the arm doublers as shown. The doubler runs from the front of the wrist past the slot.

Cut a lateral motor support brace from 6mm Depron or cut two out of 3mm scrap. Cut an additional smaller motor support from 6mm or two out of 3mm. Glue these braces in place on top of the center body plate.

Glue the two lower 3mm head profiles together. Trim 5/16 inch from the lower neck, as shown. Trim the front of the head as shown. Optional: Graphics for head will fit on one piece of glossy inkjet photo paper. Depron will be trimed for graphics after first flight. Apply graphics after completion.

Widen the head slot from 3mm to 6mm to accomodate the double lower head. Fit check the sides to the top plate. Trim the sides as shown. Cut two shoulder tops from scrap and set aside for now. Glue the lower head to the top plate at 90 degrees.

Mark the sides as a left and right. Mark the slots that correspond to the center body tabs. Bevel the marked slots with a file or nail file and bevel the breast plate slots so that the plates fit at 15 degrees off perpendicular. Test fit the parts together.

Mark the centerline of the center body plate ahead of the motor cutout. Fit the sides, breast plate, center body plate and top/arm plate with lower head together. First glue (CA) the neck to the center body plate on the centerline. This will hold all the angles correct as you glue all the other seams. Apply CA on each seam and then brush with accelerator.

Tip: To apply the accelerator, unscrew the spray nozzle from the accelerator bottle and use the tip of the draw hose like a brush. I made a wood base for my accelerator bottle because you will knock it over (several personal experiences).

Trim the tabs flush to the sides and lightly sand with a 150 grit sanding block.