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Old Oct 08, 2003, 11:56 PM
Registered User
Pasadena, CA
Joined Jun 2003
3,182 Posts
corona biulding questions

Hey all.

Thanks to the great help here, I've now gotten my bare corona kit, gy240, etc...

Mega 16/15/4 (for use with lipos), on the way...

First heli for me, so need a bit of advice.

Reading through the manual, I have some initial questions.

It says to use "anaerobic thread locker". Will locktite blue work?

It says not to use any petroleum based lubes. So what to use for the "heavy oil" and "light grease". Will 3in1 and lithium grease work?

When doing the CA fillets, are they only on one side of each joint? Why not both? Anyone think epoxy or goop would be a better fillet glue?

When assembling the main rotor, specifically the teeter to feather plate linkages - there are inner and outer holes for the links. It says to use the outer holes, for more stability, and inner for more control response. Should I use the inner, and just reduce the throws, or put in exponential, on the transmitter, or do you recommend the outer holes?

I got the JR landing gear - to allow having the batteries underneath. Any mods to the setup I should make, to keep this strong, or to take advantage of the extra space?

For example, is there a way to position the rx, to avoid the servo extensions?

I'd read that it was a bad idea to have dampening foam, between the gyro and crutch, yet here, they call for it. Any experiences?


Thanks!
Don
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Old Oct 09, 2003, 01:01 AM
Registered User
Kent, Washington
Joined Nov 2002
368 Posts
Blue lock tite will be fine, use it sparingly.

As far as lube goes, I used some silicone diff grease from one of my rc cars, and very little of it. Grease attracts dirt.

CA fillet both sides, and you don't have to make them big either. Epoxy isn't needed, the CA will work best.

As far as linkages, go for stability if this is your first heli. You can always change it later.

On the JR landing gear, you want the rear skid support as far forward as possible, as close to the main gear as you can get it. The reason is for balancing with the batteries. If you are going to be using lipos, you might want to hold off on the rear landing gear until you can determine the balance point for your set up. A little imagination is going to be required to install the JR gear. You'll have to fabricate mounts for them.

Servo extensions are going to be a must have, at least one. You'll want the esc as far away everything else as you can.

For the gyro, use the mounting pads that come with it.

Hey, take your time and do it right, make sure everything is perfect and free moving. Kind of curious, why the 16/15/4, and not the 16/15/3?
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Old Oct 09, 2003, 02:46 AM
Our Daddy and Heli Junkie
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Joined Aug 1999
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Mount the RX opposite the motor and the 240 up top and you will need no servo extensions at all.

With the JR skids, you need to add some wood between the mounts for screws and to hold them in place. Depending on how old the LMH kit is, you may need to extend the rear skid mount too. Just be sure the front/rear mounts are even.


"Kind of curious, why the 16/15/4, and not the 16/15/3?"

For a 3 cell lipo pack!!
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Old Oct 09, 2003, 04:00 AM
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Perth, Australia
Joined Sep 2003
680 Posts
Don't forget to add a diy boom protector. I use a clear garden pond hose bit balsa inside with cable ties to hold it in place. Otherwise it will the first thing you will need to fix while learning to hover (boom strike).
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Old Oct 09, 2003, 11:31 AM
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Pasadena, CA
Joined Jun 2003
3,182 Posts
Thanks for all the great suggestions folks!

The plans call for 2 kinds of lube - an oil for the pre-assembled bearings and bushings, and grease for the swashplate and big gears.

So, it sounds like white lithium grease is NOT ok?? Is it petroleum based? Should I go find some silicone diff lube?

For the bearing oil, triflow?

Fred's right - the 4 turn will fly this baby at about 15 amps WOT, on 3 cell lipos.

Fred, what did you mean by the mounting "the 240 up top"?

The kit is pretty darn new, I believe.

Got it from helihobby, who now carry the bare kit, after I bugged them a bit. They are just 15 or 20 miles from my house. They seem to have a high turn over.

Thanks guys! This is going to be fun!!

Don
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Old Oct 09, 2003, 11:58 AM
Scale Builder, RCAPA #29
Rob Schaffer's Avatar
Lansdale, PA
Joined Jan 2002
1,370 Posts
Picture's worth a thousand words

Here's how I have my Gyro, mounted on a small plate above the Tail rotor servo. The Rx, is mounted directly on the opposite side, so I don't need any servo extensions. The battery is in the stock location, and the Hacker ESC on the front just to the left side of the crutch. Hope this helps, you'll have a blast with it.


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Old Oct 09, 2003, 12:45 PM
Heli Headcase
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Cliffside Park, NJ
Joined May 2003
2,551 Posts
Rob what is the large piece of blue tape for on the blade?? I assume the small black strip is for the balancing.
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Old Oct 09, 2003, 12:50 PM
Hooked Heli Human
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Western NC
Joined Dec 2002
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small strip near the tips... i bet is for blade tracking... kinda looks like mine
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Old Oct 09, 2003, 08:54 PM
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Pasadena, CA
Joined Jun 2003
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Do you think I'd be better off, (as a first time heli pilot), using the stock landing gear?

Perhaps bending the wire, would prevent other damage, from hard shocks...??

Sure like the idea of batts underneath though...

You all are great!

Don
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Old Oct 10, 2003, 12:04 AM
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Ontario, Canada
Joined Aug 2003
468 Posts
Here's how I did my Corona. Shelf at the front was for gyro mounting, found it worked better at the rear shelf. There's a few other supports and mounting stuff that may be useful. The tail servo had its gears replaced with nylon ones after a short while for a trial...left them in. CA is fine for fillets, but I find it way too brittle and it doesn't build well, never use it on wood anymore myself, too many better things...but I'm used to building things that need to take a wallop even when working normally. Watch those fillets, there's not much room for them in some places as mentioned in the manual. The JR landing gear is very springy and strong. In fact, it will flex so far as to bottom out your battery and drive it into the gears if you happen to land hard enough, it seems. Should be very tough to break, I whacked mine on the bench pretty hard when testing the wire ties to see when they'd break. Thus the piece of wood protecting the gears, and it's a place for a battery strap. Don't mind my heat sinks on the Mega, home-made from stock but it does work (I have a flight computer mounted on the other side of the crutch, records speed, altitude, battery voltage, time, and motor [actually heat sink now] temp.).
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Old Oct 10, 2003, 12:27 AM
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washington
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I've always wondered, where do you find velcro like that?
I haven't looked too hard, but haven't been too successful either.

Thanks
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Old Oct 10, 2003, 01:23 AM
Our Daddy and Heli Junkie
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Joined Aug 1999
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The velcro straps like that can be had at almost any store. They are made for wrapping cords.

Here are 2 views of how my 240 and RX are mounted. This way you need no extensions.
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Old Oct 10, 2003, 01:29 AM
Our Daddy and Heli Junkie
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Next picture;
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Old Oct 10, 2003, 01:36 AM
Mr Jiggy Fly
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Austin, Tx
Joined Jul 2003
572 Posts
Has there ever been a glitching issue with the ESC mounted so close to the Rx? And the same with the antenna running next to the motor power wires?

I really like your clean install, did you dope the crutch? it looks really flat, hard and smooth. What did you have to mod to mount the VE landing gear?

I think I will mount my gyro in the same position, is your a 240 or 401? Was there enough ply left over to build the servo tray?

Sorry so many questions, just trying to solidify my config before building.

Thanks, and it looks great!

Jay
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Old Oct 10, 2003, 04:02 AM
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Pasadena, CA
Joined Jun 2003
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Is it really important to build a flat platform, as opposed, to say, snugging the gyro up against the main keel plate, and the stiffener?

When you put on the jr gear, is it ok to eliminate the slight nose down attitude, of the stock setup, (as it appears to be gone, in the picture above), or is it important to keep that forward lean?

Thanks,
Don
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