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Old Mar 03, 2012, 06:25 PM
I'm a pilot... 100 yrs to late
Thermalin's Avatar
USA, FL, Palm Harbor
Joined Jan 2005
3,497 Posts
I tried a prototype control horn in a slight banana shape. Made of two 1/16" pieces of ply epoxied together. When dry, I coated the outside with a piece of masking the thickness of the elevator in the middle to keep expoxy off so there is wood to wood contact when installed. Came out ok and looks strong enough. It's full length and I cut through the elevator letting it slip in rectangulr slot. I also figured I would route the cable through the front of the horizontal stab as on the full size. I took some thin tubing I had and flared both ends for the cable to ride in. The clevis looks odd but thats ok.. I was thinking I could just loop in the horn and cinch but there wouldn't be any adjusting that way outside of the fuse.

Horn not glued yet and they'll be one on each side. Started making the pivot in the fuse but no pics of that yet. he bolt in the pic is for the stab brace underneath which you can make out. The horn on the bottom clears that brace with plenty of room. I guess I'm going to add some balsa for the cable to pass through in the fuse side again witth the plastic flared tube. I want to have the arms for the elevator done to helpl locate that balsa
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Last edited by Thermalin; Mar 03, 2012 at 07:14 PM.
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Old Mar 04, 2012, 11:15 AM
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LesUyeda's Avatar
San Diego, California
Joined Dec 2004
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"Check that car out! "

Was actually a pickup truck. Wouldn't I give my eye teeth to have that now.

Les
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Old Mar 04, 2012, 01:48 PM
I'm a pilot... 100 yrs to late
Thermalin's Avatar
USA, FL, Palm Harbor
Joined Jan 2005
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Much measuring and fitting have cables entering the fuse. Still deciding on the connection inside the fuse. Unable to post pics at the moment
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Last edited by Thermalin; Mar 05, 2012 at 09:40 AM.
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Old Mar 05, 2012, 11:17 AM
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LesUyeda's Avatar
San Diego, California
Joined Dec 2004
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Thermalin.

Did the upper elevator control arm wire actually go through the leading edge of the horizontal stab? I seem to remember seeing somewhere, that there was a smooth metal platfor on top of the leading edge for the wire to ride on.

Les
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Old Mar 05, 2012, 07:01 PM
I'm a pilot... 100 yrs to late
Thermalin's Avatar
USA, FL, Palm Harbor
Joined Jan 2005
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Heres a couple pics. though mine is not this far back.

http://www.wwi-models.org/IM/French/ni17.html about 1/4 way down
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Last edited by Thermalin; Mar 06, 2012 at 07:43 PM.
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Old Mar 06, 2012, 04:30 PM
I'm a pilot... 100 yrs to late
Thermalin's Avatar
USA, FL, Palm Harbor
Joined Jan 2005
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The arizona models site I found has reference drawings of the actual aircraft.. Pretty amazing the amount of detail that went into everytihng.
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Old Mar 10, 2012, 12:16 PM
I'm a pilot... 100 yrs to late
Thermalin's Avatar
USA, FL, Palm Harbor
Joined Jan 2005
3,497 Posts
I have the rudder pull pull figured out for the piece inside the fuse and thats ready to go. The Split elevators are another story and that's the holdup. Afer much consternation and advice on other boards, I've been unable to come up something I find strong yet simple. I've made prototypes of what one suggested and uses but it iddnt work out for me coming apart after a bit of pressure.

The issue is securing two "vertical arms" to a horiontal rotating cyclinder. With the elevators split there to two pulls on top. and two on the bottom, one folr each side.

After a couple prototypes I'm still not there yet.

My concern is arms of brass with holes may wear and cut the plastic clevis where metal clevis would give metal to metal contact but would work. I could make the whole thing out of wood (dowel with ply arms) but some have said strentgh is an issue.

The best building tip I ever got was when you start getting frustrated...sometimes you just have to walk away ...and it's time
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Old Mar 12, 2012, 01:51 PM
I'm a pilot... 100 yrs to late
Thermalin's Avatar
USA, FL, Palm Harbor
Joined Jan 2005
3,497 Posts
Here's some pics
what I was planning and what I decided on doing
The rudder pull pull is in place and I'm in the process of running the lines.

Elevator will be the same idea but the crank being vertical and only one riding on a rod between the fuse sides.
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Old Mar 14, 2012, 10:11 PM
I'm a pilot... 100 yrs to late
Thermalin's Avatar
USA, FL, Palm Harbor
Joined Jan 2005
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The right angle muffler adapter came in and it's just what was needed. Muffler can now be directed between the wheels down the middle. Before was angled directly at the right side wire gear..
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Old Mar 18, 2012, 10:12 PM
I'm a pilot... 100 yrs to late
Thermalin's Avatar
USA, FL, Palm Harbor
Joined Jan 2005
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Expoxied the rudder post and added the homemade ply horns to both elevators and rudder and mounted the cowl on the 5 hardwood blocks provided. Ready to run the pull pull now.. I pieced it all together to get a look.
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Old Mar 19, 2012, 11:27 AM
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San Diego, California
Joined Dec 2004
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"I pieced it all together to get a look. "

Absolutely essential and any build. They are awsome in their bare bones:-)))))))))

Les
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Old Mar 19, 2012, 04:26 PM
I'm a pilot... 100 yrs to late
Thermalin's Avatar
USA, FL, Palm Harbor
Joined Jan 2005
3,497 Posts
If you notice that head on shot...After I mounted the cowl I saw that it was off a bit.. the prop hub was to low. Not sure how I missed it before.. but removed the cowl and the motor wasnt mounted in the correct line top to bottm. Left to right was good once the washers for offset are in place. So last night I removed the mount, plugged the holes and redrilled and it's correct now. Sitting the required 3/16" high high until the down thrust is added in.

I dont plan on using that nice wood prop unitil I get the hang of it. But I couldn'r resist picking up that scimitar shape.. looks very WWi-ish
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Old Mar 24, 2012, 10:59 PM
I'm a pilot... 100 yrs to late
Thermalin's Avatar
USA, FL, Palm Harbor
Joined Jan 2005
3,497 Posts
Apologize for lack of progress but have been real busy lately. Attached pull cables to the rudder side hardware this afternoon. I came across a video how-to on locating pull exits in the fuselage and now I can't find it. I'm going to try it tomorrow and hopefully I'll remember the steps unless anyone has a link to it. It was demo'd on 35% or so extra type fuselage showing how the rudder was done but could apply to elevator as well.
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Old Apr 07, 2012, 12:40 PM
I'm a pilot... 100 yrs to late
Thermalin's Avatar
USA, FL, Palm Harbor
Joined Jan 2005
3,497 Posts
Been very busy but back again for now...
I completed the pull pull on the rudder..Wasn't as difficult as I thought. I used some inner nyrod flared at each end in transition from in to out of use for the cable to ride in. The cutout in the nylon horn to make it thinner is for the wire rod z-bend connection to the servo. Going to setup the Elevator bellcrank later today and hopefully hook those up. I purchased some Red Ultracote to go with the greeen I already have for the Italian scheme.
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Old Apr 21, 2012, 05:15 PM
I'm a pilot... 100 yrs to late
Thermalin's Avatar
USA, FL, Palm Harbor
Joined Jan 2005
3,497 Posts
Work Work Work... .. better than the other alternative...

Its a bit tight in the fuse for servos and bellcranks so while I figure that out... I went back to the wing and the ailerons. I wrote BUSA on using minis in the wings. I have done this many times on single wing sport models like fours stars, etc but not on bipes where there will be more drag and weight from the second wing along the roll axis. The minis besides would be easier to install and fit well within the height of the rib. It would also allow me to locate if farther back closer to the aileron The diff is 36 oz/in compared to 42 oz/in and it's lighter. The cons are smaller and fewer gear teeth which and less torque. In the mean time I'm cutting holes in the wing and aileron for the hinge points which will hing at the top. I needed to angle froward the TE a bit on the main wing to get the sufficient amount of down.
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Last edited by Thermalin; Apr 21, 2012 at 05:29 PM.
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