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Old Feb 16, 2012, 10:16 PM
I'm a pilot... 100 yrs to late
Thermalin's Avatar
USA, FL, Palm Harbor
Joined Jan 2005
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So i made a quick prototype tonight. There is filler inside the sandwich running full length. I would make the bearings on the sides more lengthwise as well. This weighed in at 4grams. This would rotate on a thicker rod.

Some have suggested making the arm out of metal with wheel collars on each side and soldering the whole assembly together on the supporting wire rod. The whole assembly wire and all would rotate. I'm concerned about meta arm on metal clevis contact. It seems the connector bar on a nylon clevis would eventually wear and fail passed throug the hole drilled into metal arm.

Will try something else I think. Because the arm is short in length matching what I plan to be the total length of the elevator horn, there isn't a good way to attach or install the connection to the servo. I would like the connection to be near the end to get the most leverage. Going to see about using a double sided heavy duty servo arm. I can still face both sides with thicker ply but won't need to go to the ends leaving holes for servo connector and pull pull.
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Old Feb 19, 2012, 02:26 PM
I'm a pilot... 100 yrs to late
Thermalin's Avatar
USA, FL, Palm Harbor
Joined Jan 2005
3,460 Posts
With the pull pull in limbo, I went back this morning and finished up some things. I sheeted the top and bottom of the upper wing and added some filler pieces to the struts in the V, and the upper ends where they were a bit short.

The aileron leading edge is a single angle down and away from the wing. I'm using hingepoints and need to add some blocking on the aileron to accept the exposed piece. The issue I have is the aileron horn. They supplied what look to be mini type nylon horns. The issue is the pushrod holes do not line up over the hinge line and not sure how that was to happen. I guess I can mount them farther back and get the differential mechanically as well but I'd rather have it line up over the hinge line. The inside has two large lightening holes in the tank area. I was going to sheet these with 1/16" so can fuelproof that area in case of a leak. I'm down to the landing gear wooden fairings over the wire and then its mounting the motor and cowl.
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Old Feb 19, 2012, 06:43 PM
I'm a pilot... 100 yrs to late
Thermalin's Avatar
USA, FL, Palm Harbor
Joined Jan 2005
3,460 Posts
Began mounting the motor. Instruction say to draw perpendicular horiz and veritcal lines centered on the firewall. Then offset these 1/8 above horiz and 1/16 left of vertical for mount to be centered on giving initial down and right thrust. I was going to center the prop shaft in the cowl using washers. I had 2 in the top left, 1 in the top right and 1 in the bottom left, none in the bottom right giving me an initial angle for starters. Well i placed the cowl on and the prop mount is approx 1 inch to long . This is a bit of a big hiccup. It's approx 3/4 of an inch but I'll want to slip the cowl over the fuse 1/4".

One option is to forgo the glass resin type mount and do something else allowing the motor to mount closer to the firewall.. Another is to recess the mount in the firewall the correct depth. (to difficult at this stage)

Right now the motor is at 90 degrees and the cowl will need to be cut for the head to fit. So I may invert so the opening will be at the bottom, There is already a space/opening at the bottom due to the upsweep, flat portion of the bottom of the fuse going into theround cowl.
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Old Feb 20, 2012, 07:15 PM
I'm a pilot... 100 yrs to late
Thermalin's Avatar
USA, FL, Palm Harbor
Joined Jan 2005
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After some discussion on RCScaleBuilder, I decided to bite the bullet and cut a square in the firewall. I figure epoxying an oversized piece on the back will work fine. This gave me 5/8" of an inch recess. Shaving some off the backside of the mount will give me 3/16" and It will be very close.
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Old Feb 21, 2012, 11:14 AM
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LesUyeda's Avatar
San Diego, California
Joined Dec 2004
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I might recomend a few screws through the "add on" piece connecting it to what exists of the original firewall. Engine vibration can do nasty things to glue joints.

Les
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Old Feb 21, 2012, 01:43 PM
I'm a pilot... 100 yrs to late
Thermalin's Avatar
USA, FL, Palm Harbor
Joined Jan 2005
3,460 Posts
hmmmm. I may set it back another 1/4 inch with shallow box. I could make the hole larger allowing for recess of the carb, etc as well. This would allow tri-stock to be used as in normal firewall to fuse strengthening. Screws sounds like a good idea as well for some mechanical fastening along with the expoxy.
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Old Feb 22, 2012, 11:03 AM
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LesUyeda's Avatar
San Diego, California
Joined Dec 2004
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I said screws, and really meant nuts and bolts. Sorry.

Les
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Old Feb 22, 2012, 05:27 PM
I'm a pilot... 100 yrs to late
Thermalin's Avatar
USA, FL, Palm Harbor
Joined Jan 2005
3,460 Posts
nuts and bolts.. maybe i can still do that.

I went to the LHS and picked up a piece of 1/4" ply and hardwood stock. I decided to go with a recessed box and do this right, having the rear of the mount sit recessed in the box big enough to take some of the rear carb intake as well. . Also got some dubro 2-56 rigging couplers and a large-ish control-line bellcrank to run the pull pull inside fuse. I'll go about starting putting some of this together hopefully later this eveintg. I was wanting to make some sort of scale looking control horns but I dont want to get lost in the details either.
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Old Feb 25, 2012, 11:31 AM
I'm a pilot... 100 yrs to late
Thermalin's Avatar
USA, FL, Palm Harbor
Joined Jan 2005
3,460 Posts
Cleaned up the opening and cut the 3/8 hardwood suppports for the recess and installed. New firewall is cut and once the bottom support cures (all 30 min expoxy) I'll add the firewall to the back and its back to mounting the motor. Not as much room as I thought for mounting servos and pull pull so taking a little more planning than I thought.

I cut down the large bellcrank to match the end to end length (top to bottom) of the elevator controls. Made a mount for it but not sure if I'm using attempt two yet..

With the double arm for the elevator I can move to each side, one for each elevator. (leaning toward this one.
With the single arm... it gets tight to put the rudder pull pull in front or behind with arm pivot mechanisms for the arms needing to be in line.
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Old Feb 25, 2012, 06:38 PM
I'm a pilot... 100 yrs to late
Thermalin's Avatar
USA, FL, Palm Harbor
Joined Jan 2005
3,460 Posts
Finished the blocking and the firewall. It's curing now.

I came with a press type deal to be sure I could put pressure on the firewall against the standoffs. I just pulled the front brace and the firewall together via tightening of the screw. I spread a thin coat of 15 minute in that forward area and applied the heat gun to have it wick in all the nooks and crannies.

Plans and instructions don't seem to tell how far out the prop should be from cowl. With this fix in place I have the ability now to move it back to much so I'm writing BUSA to get this measurement of back of prop to front of cowl.
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Old Feb 26, 2012, 10:54 AM
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LesUyeda's Avatar
San Diego, California
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" measurement of back of prop to front of cowl."

I have always used about 1/8". Does not look too bad, and clears nicely.

Les
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Old Feb 26, 2012, 11:21 AM
Yes my name is Cessna.
USA, FL, Tampa
Joined Mar 2010
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Making good progress! Nice job. You should post a picture of your proposed color scheme.
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Old Feb 26, 2012, 06:48 PM
I'm a pilot... 100 yrs to late
Thermalin's Avatar
USA, FL, Palm Harbor
Joined Jan 2005
3,460 Posts
After all the firewall work I decided to work on the the wheels and they are done. I need to add the wood fairing to to wires yet,

The way the wheels work are your given brass tube to fit over the wire axle. The brass tube gets washer on the inboard end soldered on. The brass tube is sweat soldered onto the axle, cut to lenth allowing a washer on the outboard end capped by a cotter pin to hold everything on. (in a perfect world!)

What happened: The Williams Bros wheels hole for the axle were to small to fit over the brass sheathed wire. When I drilled out the wheels I made them a bit to large in error and they wobbled. I had the next size up brass tube on hand and that was slipped over the supplied brass and this worked. So the two brass tubes were soldered as one. The washers supplied were drilled out to accept the larger diameter brass and soldered on the inboard side. The whole assembly was sweat soldered onto the wire axle, the brass tubing cut to length and washer and cotter pin put on.

The gator design is what I have always wanted to put on a plane. and with the N17 pilots were able to personalize thier planes putting what they wanted on one side with their squadron marking on the other.. I'm going to use the gator and vintage it up a bit but I also like the "negative" look to it. The kit came with the indian head for the other side.

I found this link some time ago and listging here in case you haven't seen it. Allows you to cut very intricate designs and have them come out very well if not perfect.

As Bill asked.. .I didnt want to cover in the traditional N17 color scheme so being Italian I'm going to cover under those colors something like the pic. Bottom of wings are red / green afrom about 1/4 way out to the ends with top silver. The roundrels are also green and red.

Monokote 301 (9 min 56 sec)
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Old Feb 27, 2012, 11:02 AM
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LesUyeda's Avatar
San Diego, California
Joined Dec 2004
3,527 Posts
In your first picture, I am a little concerned about what I see as lack of solder "flow" toward the wheel. It looks as though the solder is just sitting on the wire. I have found that if I would pre tin the wire, then do the wrap and solder, it went a lot easier.

Les

ps. More that a little concerned.
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Old Feb 27, 2012, 12:40 PM
Yes my name is Cessna.
USA, FL, Tampa
Joined Mar 2010
191 Posts
I like the colors on the plane That you put up. Will be nice and visible. You know how well I can solder so can't comment on that wheel. Man I wish I could solder half way decent. Your post of the YouTube video has me thinking I will look for a "how to" on YouTube on soldering.
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