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Old Feb 05, 2012, 11:01 AM
I'm a pilot... 100 yrs to late
Thermalin's Avatar
USA, FL, Palm Harbor
Joined Jan 2005
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The wing is mounted to the front and rear cabanes. So I started on "attempting" to solder the V strut wires. Got a little frustratd so will pick it up this afternoon. My 40 watt soldering iron doesn't seem to do the trick so I went with the torch again. Issue is you need to solder the cabanes while they are in place. I placed aluminum foil under the area needing solder (bottom connection). It went ok but I had some "globbing" so the wires weren't hot enough. Also a little bit of charring so I will triple up the aluminum foil underneath. Will remelt and see what I can do. All wires, cabanes, struts and gear get pre-grooved wood fairings I'll need to shape a bit.
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Old Feb 05, 2012, 11:06 AM
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LesUyeda's Avatar
San Diego, California
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I don't know if its in your budget, but for that kind of soldering I have always used a Weller 200/260 watt soldering gun. No flame scorching to deal with, and plenty of heat.

Les
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Old Feb 05, 2012, 01:46 PM
I'm a pilot... 100 yrs to late
Thermalin's Avatar
USA, FL, Palm Harbor
Joined Jan 2005
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I;ll have to pick up something.. The builds I like to do and will be doing more of going forward require one to solder.
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Old Feb 05, 2012, 06:06 PM
I'm a pilot... 100 yrs to late
Thermalin's Avatar
USA, FL, Palm Harbor
Joined Jan 2005
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Soldering complete ! Now i'm playing with the hardwood for the struts.

My valve cover sprung a leak and there was quite a bit of oil all over from what looks to be from a worn out gasket A pic in case you wonder what it looks like under there I hope that's the reason anyway. 14 bucks for the gasket but estimates are 250 to 300 to replace for you... uh.. no thanks.
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Old Feb 05, 2012, 08:53 PM
I'm a pilot... 100 yrs to late
Thermalin's Avatar
USA, FL, Palm Harbor
Joined Jan 2005
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With the V struts soldered up, I started on the hardwood covers. They supply two pieces of over-lengthed grooved hardwood which you cut half giving two oversized pieces. Plans show the V struts with wood but your to measure on your installation as it will most likely be different. I took some eyeball measurements off the plan and freehanded the curve, then just cut with a scroll saw, sanded and rounded the edges. There is a thin ply plate that goes on both sides of the bottom V. Wood gets epoxied to wires. doesn't mention it but I'll rough up the wires first. These get wrapped with something white, white mono or thread, etc 3 spaced evenly for scale effect later on. They say this was done to keep the spruce struts on the real thing from splitting.
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Old Feb 06, 2012, 10:52 AM
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Looks like you got the soldering problem licked.

Les
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Old Feb 06, 2012, 06:24 PM
I'm a pilot... 100 yrs to late
Thermalin's Avatar
USA, FL, Palm Harbor
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Engine valve cover is back together and so far so good.. no oil leak. Going to work on the other V-strut. I think I may stain and seal them when the time comes which would look nice. Don't see that on models usually.

Udpates:
I posted a question on RCSB for advice on the pull pull setup in terms of the support and creation of the bellcranks. Plan to have one for rudder and elevator. Something else I'm toying with is though the aileron servos will be in the wings...

I'm looking into having the aileron actuators near wing center operational in a faux fashion. Long thin-ish wire connecting aileron to the actuator to get up and down movement with vertical rods down into fuse to complete the "illusion".
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Old Feb 09, 2012, 11:00 PM
I'm a pilot... 100 yrs to late
Thermalin's Avatar
USA, FL, Palm Harbor
Joined Jan 2005
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Got a few things done tonight.
Mostly finished the V struts with the ply supports. Some epoxy got on the hardwood so I think staining is out now. There's a bit to much gap for my liking at the wing connections so I'm going to add some balsa and shape it to close that up a bit. V-shaped the leading edge of the elevator and have a decision to make, whether to keep it as one or split in two. If split, it would be cleaner with no space needed to pass by the rudder post, etc. Any thoughts on which would be better?. I plan to use pull pull and hinge points for hinging. I couldn't find if the real thing was split or one piece. I made up the rudder post with brass tube to accept the rudder piano wire.Took a bit of rounding to get equal deflection on both sides. Started the tail skid which is a ply center between balsa with a hardwood extention for looks and piano to carry the load.
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Old Feb 11, 2012, 11:59 PM
I'm a pilot... 100 yrs to late
Thermalin's Avatar
USA, FL, Palm Harbor
Joined Jan 2005
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Good size honey do list today son only did a couple more things today. Put in the pieces and made the holes to attach the tail skid. Added the blocking to accept the hingepoints for the elevator. Hope to install the hinge points and mound the horiz stab tomorrow. At that point I should be able to start the pull pull setups for elev and rudder.
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Old Feb 12, 2012, 12:13 AM
I'm a pilot... 100 yrs to late
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Old Feb 12, 2012, 01:13 PM
I'm a pilot... 100 yrs to late
Thermalin's Avatar
USA, FL, Palm Harbor
Joined Jan 2005
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Did a little more this morning. Cut the holes for the hinge points and decided to separate the elevators in two. Mounted the horiz stab. BUSA said to mount the stab on the two balsa sq longerons but I was a bit weary of that large stab/elevator resting on those alone so I added some balsa tri-stock on the insides so it wouldn't be seen.

Going to make the fairings from the hardwood provided for the rear metal cabanes and then on soldering the landing gear this afternoon. Then onto the pull pull for rudder and elevator.
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Old Feb 12, 2012, 10:34 PM
I'm a pilot... 100 yrs to late
Thermalin's Avatar
USA, FL, Palm Harbor
Joined Jan 2005
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uA bit more progress this afternoon. Put the fairings on the rear cabane wires and shaped one. The pic shows before on the right and after on the left. Soldered up the two landing gear wires. The wheels slip on a brass tube that slips over the main axle. This brass tube is to be sweat soldered on. The axle opening on the wheels was to small for the axle with the brass tube in place so I proceeded to drill it out a bit. I thought I had the right size bit going a bit larger each time but it was a tad to big. So i had another piece of brass tube which fit the hole diameter and also fit nice over provided brass tube. So I guess I'll solder tube to axle and tube to tube. No biggie. They provide a small washer you solder to the inboard side and then you are to cut the brass tube off just beyond the axle, drill a small holel and use a small wire or cotter type pin to hold the wheel on the outside. A scale look as they call it.
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Old Feb 14, 2012, 10:43 PM
I'm a pilot... 100 yrs to late
Thermalin's Avatar
USA, FL, Palm Harbor
Joined Jan 2005
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I picked up some circuit board without the brass overlay tonight at Radio Shack. It was 3.19 for for 6x8. I think I should have picked up the one with the brass facing as this would have allowed soldering a tube to each side as a bearing. As is though I'm going to stick with what I have and make a sandwich type setup for the control arms inside the fuse per the pic. The holes which are much sharper cut than the pic shows, I will be able to laminate both sides with strips of wood, the expoxy will bind both sides through the holes for the first layer. I'll see how it comes out. I plan on using this for the elevators and rudder too with just a single laminate on each side. I hope to be able to stain the horns
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Old Feb 15, 2012, 07:08 AM
I'm a pilot... 100 yrs to late
Thermalin's Avatar
USA, FL, Palm Harbor
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This stuff didnt cut easily on the scroll saw.. it was ok but not great. I think b/c of the up and down of the blade. Going to try the bandsaw with a thin blade later on. Most likely will need to sandpaper the sharp radius at both ends.
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Old Feb 15, 2012, 09:51 PM
I'm a pilot... 100 yrs to late
Thermalin's Avatar
USA, FL, Palm Harbor
Joined Jan 2005
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Tried cutting the perfboard but it didn't come out well and its a bit brittle in narrow strips. I'm thinking of a wood arm with a nylon control horn at the tips turned 90 degrees, a birds beak cut top and bottom to help secure. This will be a rather small contraption, the length equal to the length of the control horn top and bottom on the elevator so we'll see.

On the landing gear they provide a hardwood cross member with holes at each end attached with rubber bands for support between the wheels. I don't think I care for that much. Rubber bands would need to be replaced often and it seems like it would be vibrating all over the place. Going to pop in Flyboys and see if I can tell what kind of cross member is supposed to be there, a wire support or wood or what and make something more permanent but hopefully with some springyness built in to allow the wheels to splay out and in if needed as opposed to being rigid ...for my "perfect" landings.
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