Originally Posted by 3Daddict

My elevator servo is not working properly, it it always out of trim, and the servo will lock in position all the time. How do I remove the servo?

You will have to use a sharp xacto and cut it out.... Watch out for the wire!

Originally Posted by 3Daddict

My elevator servo is not working properly, it it always out of trim, and the servo will lock in position all the time. How do I remove the servo?

Before you cut the servo out here are a couple of other solutions.

It is possible that your servo is locking up due to high load condition and the gears aren’t striped nor is the control motor bad. A miss alignment in the servo arm, binding between one or more control rod guides or a poorly positioned control horn might be the root cause.

First- loosen the control rod from the servo arm and check the moment & tension of the control rod. The elevator should move freely without any bind from 45 up to 45 degrees down. If the control rod significantly binds or loads up then reposition one or more of the control horn guides to help resolve.

Second- make sure the control horn on the elevator is positioned with the greatest length exposed giving it the longest leverage arm. If the control horn is embedded too much into the elevator it may be over working your servo and overload locking it up. The opposite condition can help on the servo arm as a shorter one can give you more torque.

Third- check the rotation plane of the servo arm. Watch the control rod make sure there is minimal side to side as well as up & down flex in the rod near the servo but before the first control rod guide. There will be a little up & down flex due to the arc of the servo arm however there should be very little or near zero side to side flex. If a significant servo arm misalignment arc exists, the issue can be resolved by repositioning the first control rod guide slightly for significant up/down flex issues or carefully freeing up and regluing the servo without needing to completely remove it for significant side to side flex issues.

Fourth- sometimes you can play with the endpoints and subtrims on your radio to work around a high load servo arm position which normally occurs at the outer movement of the arm. If your servo is binding / locking near the centering point go directly to step five.

Fifth- if all else fails then yes it appears that you have got a bad servo and it's time to perform open heart surgery on your Crack Yak and replace that poor puppy. The good news is that Crack Yak’s are tough sob’s and it will be back flying stat after out patient post op with little physical therapy.

Hope this helps / Happy Flying.

Nice post TheEarl Of Whirl.

Recently I had to replace two of the smaller 5g servos. They started 'chattering' when moved to the end of their throw. I tried adjusting trim and sub trim but not EPA. I'm new at this do you think they were stripped or could they have been salvaged? By chattering I mean after moving the control a certain distance the servo would rapidly move back and forth and make a loud sound.

Originally Posted by wayfaringdreamer

Recently I had to replace two of the smaller 5g servos. They started 'chattering' when moved to the end of their throw. I tried adjusting trim and sub trim but not EPA. I'm new at this do you think they were stripped or could they have been salvaged? By chattering I mean after moving the control a certain distance the servo would rapidly move back and forth and make a loud sound.

Chances are that if the servos are making noise after continued use the damage is already done & it was a good call to replace. There are not many things worse than a servo failure in flight.

As a rule of thumb I use an inline servo amp meter recommended by AJ. Here is a link to the product details. http://www.horizonhobby.com/products...t-meter-HAN172

I always adjust my end points, play with linkages, control arms & geometry to avoid binding & overloading of the servos while attempting to achieve the greatest control surface throws at my highest of three rates. Generally you can hear a servo binding up & resolve the issue by merely adjusting your end points back until the servo stops growling/whining. Using a servo amp meter lets you really dial it in.

Originally Posted by TheEarl Of Whirl

Chances are that if the servos are making noise after continued use the damage is already done & it was a good call to replace. There are not many things worse than a servo failure in flight.

As a rule of thumb I use an inline servo amp meter recommended by AJ. Here is a link to the product details. http://www.horizonhobby.com/products...t-meter-HAN172

I always adjust my end points, play with linkages, control arms & geometry to avoid binding & overloading of the servos while attempting to achieve the greatest control surface throws at my highest of three rates. Generally you can hear a servo binding up & resolve the issue by merely adjusting your end points back until the servo stops growling/whining. Using a servo amp meter lets you really dial it in.

Earl has this all squared away. Typically if they are jittering, ratcheting or clicking it is time for them to go.

To prolong servo life in these planes you need to make sure your loosen up the surfaces during the build by folding them over and letting them sit with a weight on them for about 10 min. Also, you need to make sure that you are not over driving them with the end points. You can do it with the in-line meter like Earl is talking about or you can just listen to them. You can hear the servo motor start to work when it reaches the end of the limit. When you hear the motor start to work and the control surface stop moving you need to stop the travel.

If you have a clean, bind free, surface there is no reason your combo 5G servos won't run a few hundred flights.

I think another servo has gone on my CY.
That's the 2nd, ES08 this time, I hoped it would last longer.
The CY eats rudder servos for breakfast.

Originally Posted by jimbo320

I think another servo has gone on my CY.
That's the 2nd, ES08 this time, I hoped it would last longer.
The CY eats rudder servos for breakfast.

Look at the positive side of it...

It means you use your rudder.

In the USA, where we fly mode 2 and rudder is on the left stick, we often refer to guys who can't work the throttle and rudder as having a "lazy left hand".

Glad to hear to hear you don't.

JC

I have been flying my DW Extra for about 1 1/2 years learning IMAC and some clumsy 3D at present. Been through 1 fuse and a few easy crack repairs (tore off landing gear at fuse, but managed to splice in a new hunk of foam). Did a lousy job with my first packing tape job, ripped it all off a while back and re-taped it. Looks pretty good now with new tape and ready for another year of play.

As I don't like to tear my DW up learning 3D, I went out and bought a Twisted Hobbies "Crack Yak" early last summer and I have to admit, it is a great flyer. Absolutely bullit proof, (Broke an elevator control rod and went in nose first from about 100 ft up), and only a minor fuse crack that repaired with no visible damage. I can also fly it in a smaller field and it has been a blast as a throw in the trunk, take anywhere flyer. It is a winner in my book as well!

Both companies are first rate. Both give excellent service, both strive to build the highest quality models and both are extremely easy to communicate with!

However, I have to admit that the extra durability of the EPP is a great advantage to a new flyer just learning acrobatics. There is one problem that EPP has that is not noticable with DW Depron ships when it comes to structural movement in a variety of weather/tempurature changes. With the Crack Yak, I always have to retrim the model most of the time because the fuselage litterly changes length from one tempurature to another.

Another point is ease of repair with Depron. Althogh EPP can take a lot of punishment, If serious damage does accure, it is not near as easy to repair as the more rigid Depron.

I think that the new DW (Rehab) is a great idea as a little tongue and cheek friendly competition only improves the breed and can only benifit the end user.

As far as performance, I think the Twisted Hobbies EPP is about as good as it gets to performance. But it still is not up to a DW Depron ship in response and overall speed.

I think that there is either a Revo or an OnAxis in my future!

When it comes to Depron versus EPP i will go with EPP every time... doesn't matter how much you big up DW Depron ships, I am still RCF and twisted through and through when it comes to foamys.

thank you for taking the time to do this. i really love this plane and twisted hobbies
I'm kind of new but can fly 3d pretty well. I have a 3s 600 m battery and it flies very well and fast
what are your thoughts about using a 3s

Originally Posted by Kris...

When it comes to Depron versus EPP i will go with EPP every time... doesn't matter how much you big up DW Depron ships, I am still RCF and twisted through and through when it comes to foamys.

I'm with Kris on this as well. I've got some depron ships as well and to be honest I'm not pushing both them or myself to the limits. It's especially true of my smaller depron planes (micros, minis etc.). If it wasn't for epp planes I probably wouldn't have gotten back into flying.

Originally Posted by SeanBogunia

thank you for taking the time to do this. i really love this plane and twisted hobbies
I'm kind of new but can fly 3d pretty well. I have a 3s 600 m battery and it flies very well and fast
what are your thoughts about using a 3s

That depends on what type of flying I do if I go 2s or 3s. A 600 pack might be a bit on the heavy side. When I'm looking for slow practice type flying I go 2s. When I really want to huck my plane around I go 3s.

Agreed 3s is crazy, but a lotta fun.

Originally Posted by Kris...

When it comes to Depron versus EPP i will go with EPP every time... doesn't matter how much you big up DW Depron ships, I am still RCF and twisted through and through when it comes to foamys.

+1

Although I love the way Depron models fly, I got fed up of re-gluing carbon bracing, replacing pieces of Depron and generally ending up with an airframe that just got heavier and less and less accurate each crash. The RCF/Twisted Hobbys models have been a revelation with all the guys that go indoor flying, they just come back for more.
Maybe I'm not trying hard enough, but in the last year or so, I think I have made one repair to the rudder of my Edge and one to the spats of my Pitts, both Crack Yaks are still un-damaged, despite a few mid-airs, including indoor helis

Mike

Originally Posted by jimbo320

Agreed 3s is crazy, but a lotta fun.

Agreed!! Here's a little CY 3s action that I shot today. I was testing out some new Haiyin 3s 500's. I like 'em!

Crack Yak (7 min 15 sec)