Originally Posted by IntegrityHndywrk

Actually no, I test flew it before trying to adjust the rudder to see where it would be at. It seamed so close to the way it flew before so i didn't see how much more i could adjust it. Is it just a matter of switching the RX to rate mode after pairing and setting it to "center" then switching it back to HH? I really am more mechanically knowledgeable when it comes to my heli experience. I have not had to do much adjusting on the rx so i've been kind of winging it. This info might help me balance out my d05 also. But i'm pretty sure the issue with the d05 is it needs weight added to the front. Anyway Its still flying normal forward without any noticeable tail drift or anything, but when it goes to flip the elevator seems to loose a lot of its throw just as its getting to inverted but then just cant make the whole flip and decides to tail spin, especially as i give it more negative pitch to try and lift it up. It just ends up head first on the ground every time. i've even tryed getting it higher in the air and doing a loop with the same result. a very hard smash into the ground. Still flying though . I used to be able to loop it in forward flight no problem so it must be my inexperience setting the RX correctly. I do not use trim or subtrim on the TX to adjust anything though. I usually just fly it, unplug battery, adjust linkage. Rebind on level surface and check swash and rudder are in their proper position. Fly it, land it, recheck position after hover. repeat as needed. Worked for me so far, but obviously not correct i suppose.

Then please set the heli up right.. You are looking for in RATE mode rudder servo arm at 90 degrees and the heli not yawing with hands off rudder and no rudder trim. You need this set up right before you fly in HH mode as otherwise you have no way of knowing if in HH mode the gyro will have the control movement available to counter the torque and any tail movement you are asking for..

installed my l/b V2 slipper clutch on my d02s, installation was pretty easy, Bob has the fuel line cut just right so the gear, tube and collar fit nicely in the tail box. On my initial assembly the collar set screw contacted the b gear so i disassembled and placed the collar back on the shaft and gently snugged down the set screw. I used some 320 grit sand paper and lightly sanded over the top of the set screw, it doesn't take much. I blew off the shaft and collar with compressed air to keep any grit out of the tail bearings and reassembled , then set screw cleared the b gear. Thanks to livonia bob for the kit and IntegrityHndywrk and others for the assembly info.

Originally Posted by adrenahelin

installed my l/b V2 slipper clutch on my d02s, installation was pretty easy, Bob has the fuel line cut just right so the gear, tube and collar fit nicely in the tail box. On my initial assembly the collar set screw contacted the b gear so i disassembled and placed the collar back on the shaft and gently snugged down the set screw. I used some 320 grit sand paper and lightly sanded over the top of the set screw, it doesn't take much. I blew off the shaft and collar with compressed air to keep any grit out of the tail bearings and reassembled , then set screw cleared the b gear. Thanks to livonia bob for the kit and IntegrityHndywrk and others for the assembly info.

So many of you are having this problem with the set screw sticking up to high and the need to sand it to fit after you have it installed.. That on the next batch I'm going to go ahead and cut the notch deeper.. I'll start thinking more like a Walkera company and figure that if you happen to bend the shaft because it's now to thin that you will just buy a replacement kit from me and think nothing of it.....

v3? i'll stick with the v2

Originally Posted by livonia bob

Then please set the heli up right.. You are looking for in RATE mode rudder servo arm at 90 degrees and the heli not yawing with hands off rudder and no rudder trim. You need this set up right before you fly in HH mode as otherwise you have no way of knowing if in HH mode the gyro will have the control movement available to counter the torque and any tail movement you are asking for..

When i first fired it up in HH or "normal" flight mode there was no yaw and also the servo was approx 90 degrees parked on a level surface. The shaft was basically in the same spot as the stock shaft used to be. (i always mark my shafts to measure the reinsertion depth.) I did have to do a slight adjustment though. I figured out part of my problem with the tail kicking is my Storm batteries are in fact starting to break down and the electrolyte inside is thusly slowing down the discharge or C rating. I'm willing to bet they don't rate at even 15C any longer. So I read up on my RX and adjusted the rudder as you suggested, i also used this method to fix up my 4f200's yaw problem. Thank you again bob. I have not had a chance to try to invert my d02 yet, going to wait till the next time i can bring it out to the field. Hopefully this adjustment has addressed the inverted issue.

Originally Posted by livonia bob

So many of you are having this problem with the set screw sticking up to high and the need to sand it to fit after you have it installed.. That on the next batch I'm going to go ahead and cut the notch deeper.. I'll start thinking more like a Walkera company and figure that if you happen to bend the shaft because it's now to thin that you will just buy a replacement kit from me and think nothing of it.....

I usually just straighten my shafts when they bend using the wood board trick. The v120d02S's tail shaft is harder to straighten because the tail blade connector does not come off. Its also my thinnest one and only part of the v120d02 i don't think i've had to replace yet, till now, by choice for the clutch. I don't see why they can't use this smaller size shaft to make the v120d05's tail gear smaller, but whatever, I'm not an engineer or anything. I just wish i could get a true hardened and tempered main shaft for the head on my d05. I messaged procrasher but who knows when or if i'll get a reply. I've been thinking about trying to use a propane torch to heat and quench my shafts to try and harden them myself. Maybe this is an option for the tail shafts as well. Unless you truly want to be like walkera

I'm going up to the cottage for a few days.. All orders that have been invoice and paid are in the mail already. You should all have them this week.

Originally Posted by IntegrityHndywrk

I usually just straighten my shafts when they bend using the wood board trick. The v120d02S's tail shaft is harder to straighten because the tail blade connector does not come off. Its also my thinnest one and only part of the v120d02 i don't think i've had to replace yet, till now, by choice for the clutch. I don't see why they can't use this smaller size shaft to make the v120d05's tail gear smaller, but whatever, I'm not an engineer or anything. I just wish i could get a true hardened and tempered main shaft for the head on my d05. I messaged procrasher but who knows when or if i'll get a reply. I've been thinking about trying to use a propane torch to heat and quench my shafts to try and harden them myself. Maybe this is an option for the tail shafts as well. Unless you truly want to be like walkera

As no one has told me that they have bent a tail shaft at my notch yet.. I think going a hair deeper is worth a try to solve the few set screw hitting the "B" gear reports I have received. But even then only one person hasn't been able to solve the problem with a emery board in a few seconds..

Heat treating is a interesting thing. But I think it's some thing that I would have to study up on and I don't know if it's worth the trouble to try and get it right.. I know how many shaft's I have screwed up just getting the notch right.. Trying to heat treat and keeping them straight and actually getting the right temp to get the metal to do what I need isn't worth it on these to me anyways... As my cost of getting the tail shafts is to high to screw them up.. But for making main shafts out of your own straight stock and then heat treating them would be a winner...

Originally Posted by livonia bob

As no one has told me that they have bent a tail shaft at my notch yet.. I think going a hair deeper is worth a try to solve the few set screw hitting the "B" gear reports I have received. But even then only one person hasn't been able to solve the problem with a emery board in a few seconds..

Heat treating is a interesting thing. But I think it's some thing that I would have to study up on and I don't know if it's worth the trouble to try and get it right.. I know how many shaft's I have screwed up just getting the notch right.. Trying to heat treat and keeping them straight and actually getting the right temp to get the metal to do what I need isn't worth it on these to me anyways... As my cost of getting the tail shafts is to high to screw them up.. But for making main shafts out of your own straight stock and then heat treating them would be a winner...

I have since spoken with procrasher. He makes his shafts out of a special steel alloy. The stock shafts are not made out of an alloy which can be hardened properly. Though I for one can attest to the fact that straightening them out using heat and a straight bored hole in wood just a hair smaller than the shaft does harden the bent spot more than when its new. just be careful you don't over heat it or use too much torque and break the shaft at the pin hole or key mark.New ones always bend very easy for me on my d05. The straightened ones i replace a new one (now bent) with always seam to take a little bit more of a beating. The tail shafts i tend to only ever bend what would equate to the "feathering". Which on the d05 is also bent way easier than the d02s. But can be removed from the shaft individually so replacing the whole shaft is not needed. So i can attach the shaft to a drill or dremel and straighten it out also. Not so easy to do on the d02s. I think i finally bent the feathering or shaft on my d02s, though very slightly. It hardly vibes and still flys hands free perfectly.

I also managed to get my v120d02s with the slipper clutch to do a back flip. The elevator controls still feel very stiff once it almost reaches inverted. I verified my problem with tail hold on inverted was partly because of the "Storm" batteries bogging down. Also partly because i did not set the rudder correct. It flew great today until a tail blade connector complete with blade and half of the steering connector flew off mid flight. It must have been broken from who knows when and broke the steering connector when it flew off. When i picked it up it had a screw holding on a bearing and thats all. LOL. GG. no other damage, but my canopy is taped together in 5 places. I'm expecting my doctored up servos to give out any day now too. Its a good thing i can beat up this bird or my 4f200 would sure be in a lot of pieces.

"1. Remove the tail rotor blades, and the hubs using one of the Allen wrenches that were in the D02S parts bag to removed the hub screws.."

"A kit is a new tail shaft with a new notch for the collar's set screw, the new adjustment collar with set screw installed, a Allen wrench for the set screw, two cut to proper length for your heli tubing one is a spare, one spare screw for the outer collar. That's it "

Bob, my kit only came with one allen wrench that fits the set screw on the locking collar. It doesn't fit the set screws on the tail rotor blade hubs, as it is too small. Was there supposed to be one in the bag? If not, do you know what size it is? The smallest loose allen key I have is too large, and the smallest in my tool kits is 1.5m, and is way too big. I live in a rural area, so I will have to order one i guess, and would like to make sure I get the right size!

Thanks!

@johnnympc, the tail rotor hubs is a 0.9mm allen, at least thats what i used. the kit's allen is for the set screw only, you may have gotten one with your heli.

Awesome adrenahelin!! Thanks soo much, I didn't even think to look in the heli box. There is one there!!

Thanks again!

you're welcome, glad you had one, try to get one with the screwdriver handle, easier to use. the one i pictured is sold out on ebay or i would have added the link.

I’m sold out right now,, If you wish to be on the next batch,, but I don’t even have a ETA yet..

I'm going to change the way I do the pre orders.. What I will do is go ahead and PayPal invoice you.. But DO NOT PAY IT till I get them in stock, made up and ready to ship.. I’ll then have PayPal send you a reminder.. and than you pay it and I’ll ship it..

I want to try doing it this way as it gets very confusing the way I was doing it and took way to much time going through all the emails to get the invoices sent out.. This way once I have them It will only take me a click to let you know that it’s ready and then for you to pay and me to get them in the mail..

The price should be the same $14.00 and $5.00 S&H. Again you buy up to three at one shipping cost..

I’ll need to know if you are in the USA or not, which heli you need it for and how many.. When you first email me at slipperclutch@mi.rr.com Thanks Bob

All back orders have been shipped... As of May 7...

And I'll have some more slipper clutches in stock ready for shipping next week..

If you are on the fence about buying some I would advise you to order soon, before I start spending most of my time at the cottage..

Again you can buy up to three at one shipping cost..

I’ll need to know if you are in the USA or not, which heli you need it for and how many.. When you first email me at slipperclutch@mi.rr.com

If in the first email you don't tell me that you are in the USA I'll just go ahead and charge the $5.00 S&H and get the invoice in the mail to you....Thanks Bob