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Old Mar 29, 2012, 08:33 AM
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livonia bob's Avatar
United States, MI, Livonia
Joined Apr 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IntegrityHndywrk View Post
I hope this is not too far off topic but If anyone needs gears for their 4G6 or compatible that hasn't gotten their slipper clutch yet. I have 5 gear sets for sale. Walkera part #HM-4G6-Z-19. I got stuck with them and can't use them on my D02S. They are 3.95 + shipping (priority or first class mail is available)

http://www.ebay.com/itm/170804141614

If you would like to save me the seller fees from ebay I can also invoice your email directly with paypal.

I'm glad my slipper clutch is going to save me from having to stock up on these so much when it arrives. I can see where people would rather spend their money on that just thought I'd try my luck at getting rid of these things.
At least your only stuck with 5 sets I have over 10 of them.

I should of been smart and unloaded them before I started selling the slipper clutch to the public I guess....
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Old Mar 30, 2012, 08:43 AM
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United States, FL, Palm Coast
Joined Mar 2012
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Yeah, no one is really looking on eBay anyway. I'm fairly sure everyone upgrades their gear sets now anyway when they blow out.

I got the clutch yesterday but I'm waiting for a new tail drive holder. Cracked it and lost my bearing and collar also. Lucky for me I found the collar but the bearing is lost. I should have just got a extreme or microheli metal one. Maybe next time. I can't wait to try this out though. Looks great.
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Old Mar 30, 2012, 09:11 AM
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Joined Jan 2012
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clutch development

My comments apply to the Walkera line of direct drive heli's.
I am opening this for comment as these are ideas I am working on.

First: the main gear driven by the pinion.
There has been talk of a shear pin to reduce breakage of teeth on the main gear.
This is my thoughts, instead of a shear pin how about a flexible
pin that will compress but under an extreme load will shear.
What I have done is for the CB180Z and similar drivelines.
The origional pin is 1 mm in diameter so I enlarged the hole to
1.5mm to give more clearance for my experiments.
I am trying a rubber band of sufficient thickness. My resoning is
under a certain shear load the band will deform and not break
however, if the force is great enough then it will shear.
Another option is a small wire consisting of about 5 strands of
number 36 wire and a jacket the is about 1 mm in diameter.
Same logic as above.

Second part: The tail section of a direct drive.
So far the ideas have been a slipper clutch.
My thoughts are for a system that will allow the gears to sepeate
under a crash load and then reingage. I am trying grommets behind
the gear and like others making the gear slip on the shaft rather
than be completely linked to the shaft. This part is still under
development so more to come.

I am open to comments and suggestions.
Remember if the crash is a pile of parts that noone is shure what
it was in the beginning all bets are off.
Ok lets hear some ideas.
thanks
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Old Mar 30, 2012, 09:29 AM
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livonia bob's Avatar
United States, MI, Livonia
Joined Apr 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by freezywilly View Post
My comments apply to the Walkera line of direct drive heli's.
I am opening this for comment as these are ideas I am working on.

First: the main gear driven by the pinion.
There has been talk of a shear pin to reduce breakage of teeth on the main gear.
This is my thoughts, instead of a shear pin how about a flexible
pin that will compress but under an extreme load will shear.
What I have done is for the CB180Z and similar drivelines.
The origional pin is 1 mm in diameter so I enlarged the hole to
1.5mm to give more clearance for my experiments.
I am trying a rubber band of sufficient thickness. My resoning is
under a certain shear load the band will deform and not break
however, if the force is great enough then it will shear.
Another option is a small wire consisting of about 5 strands of
number 36 wire and a jacket the is about 1 mm in diameter.
Same logic as above.

Second part: The tail section of a direct drive.
So far the ideas have been a slipper clutch.
My thoughts are for a system that will allow the gears to sepeate
under a crash load and then reingage. I am trying grommets behind
the gear and like others making the gear slip on the shaft rather
than be completely linked to the shaft. This part is still under
development so more to come.

I am open to comments and suggestions.
Remember if the crash is a pile of parts that noone is shure what
it was in the beginning all bets are off.
Ok lets hear some ideas.
thanks

I think the best update you could make is getting a V120D02S and my slipper clutch.. Then these two problems you are having with your?? are solved for you..
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Old Mar 30, 2012, 01:16 PM
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United States, FL, Palm Coast
Joined Mar 2012
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The slipper clutch is a elegant and efficient slip clutch system. It really is the end all solution for tail drive. As far as the pinion goes, the clutch on a v120d02s main gear upgrade is all that is required if you don't already own a D02s model you can upgrade the frame, shaft, head, and main gear along with tail drive gears and pinion to the 02s. That is the best setup I have found so far and have spent a lot of money looking. The head on the d02s is far more durable than the original d02 or 4g6 because there are more score marks in the shaft for the swash stabilizer. It is also thinner.
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Old Mar 30, 2012, 11:57 PM
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United States, FL, Palm Coast
Joined Mar 2012
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I just got home and my tail boxes have arrived. Unfortunately the collar set screw hit up on the gear no matter what i did. At first i thought it was because i didn't tighten it enough. Then I tighten it more and reread the instuctions that say not to tighten it. Oh well, I think I need to take a dremel to the head of the screw and grind it a little shorter. It protrudes just slightly. I don't know if maybe the shaft needs grinding or what but i think a quick scrape with the dremel on the head of the set screw will do the trick. I'll keep playing with it. I'm sure i'll get it eventually.

Update:
I used a fine diamond tip grinder with my dremel and managed to take the burs off the edges enough that i feel comfortable with the amount of friction between the gear and the collar. The gear and collar are basically are fully pressed together so the set screw was just not able to go by without fully stopping the gears. It was dark outside when i finished this repair and putting a new tail belt on my 4f200 so i could only do a test hover in the driveway with my spot lights on. It seemed to hold the tail in pitch pumps normally. It still has the same slight kick out it used to have before the clutch. I was hoping that would go away when i rebuilt everything on the tail boom today. Its very, very, very insignificant when i compare it to my v120D05 though. But i think this clutch helps to nullify the vibration caused when the bearings slip in the holder. Could be because i have a brand new holder and bearings too though.

So far i'm loving it. I put her down in my front yard. We have like 5 huge live oak trees so there is a layer of oak leafs like 3 inches thick that have been the bane of my v120d02's existence. It shot leafs everywhere, sucking them into both rotors and flinging oak twigs everywhere. I let it sit there at just about 1/4 stick to keep the speed up. I let it really grab a few twigs and throw them, then i did a piro while still on the ground and mulched some leaves with my tail rotor. Opened up my gear plate under the skid and everything was still good as new.
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Old Mar 31, 2012, 07:19 AM
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United States, MI, Livonia
Joined Apr 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IntegrityHndywrk View Post
I just got home and my tail boxes have arrived. Unfortunately the collar set screw hit up on the gear no matter what i did. At first i thought it was because i didn't tighten it enough. Then I tighten it more and reread the instuctions that say not to tighten it. Oh well, I think I need to take a dremel to the head of the screw and grind it a little shorter. It protrudes just slightly. I don't know if maybe the shaft needs grinding or what but i think a quick scrape with the dremel on the head of the set screw will do the trick. I'll keep playing with it. I'm sure i'll get it eventually.

Update:
I used a fine diamond tip grinder with my dremel and managed to take the burs off the edges enough that i feel comfortable with the amount of friction between the gear and the collar. The gear and collar are basically are fully pressed together so the set screw was just not able to go by without fully stopping the gears. It was dark outside when i finished this repair and putting a new tail belt on my 4f200 so i could only do a test hover in the driveway with my spot lights on. It seemed to hold the tail in pitch pumps normally. It still has the same slight kick out it used to have before the clutch. I was hoping that would go away when i rebuilt everything on the tail boom today. Its very, very, very insignificant when i compare it to my v120D05 though. But i think this clutch helps to nullify the vibration caused when the bearings slip in the holder. Could be because i have a brand new holder and bearings too though.

So far i'm loving it. I put her down in my front yard. We have like 5 huge live oak trees so there is a layer of oak leafs like 3 inches thick that have been the bane of my v120d02's existence. It shot leafs everywhere, sucking them into both rotors and flinging oak twigs everywhere. I let it sit there at just about 1/4 stick to keep the speed up. I let it really grab a few twigs and throw them, then i did a piro while still on the ground and mulched some leaves with my tail rotor. Opened up my gear plate under the skid and everything was still good as new.
I'm at a lost now... I check and double check every one to make sure that the screw looks to me to be flush with the collar before I package them.. May be I'll have to start putting a short emery board in the package with instructions on how to sand off the set screw after installing it? Or I can take another 0.02mm off the shaft to get it deeper,, as so far I have not heard anyone complaining that their shaft has bent at the notch location as I have been worried about. And none of mine have either. What do you guys think??
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Old Mar 31, 2012, 12:11 PM
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United States, FL, Palm Coast
Joined Mar 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by livonia bob View Post
I'm at a lost now... I check and double check every one to make sure that the screw looks to me to be flush with the collar before I package them.. May be I'll have to start putting a short emery board in the package with instructions on how to sand off the set screw after installing it? Or I can take another 0.02mm off the shaft to get it deeper,, as so far I have not heard anyone complaining that their shaft has bent at the notch location as I have been worried about. And none of mine have either. What do you guys think??
Well i even went to the trouble of removing the set screw to make sure it was threaded in properly. It didn't appear stripped. The head of the set screw was hardly protruding. It was mainly,for lack of a better word, the "sharp" edges it was putting on the outside edge of the allen hole. There is absolutely no space between the collar and gear so they rub smooth all the way around the collar and at first, the ruff (finely sanded) spot around the set screw from filing it down actually grabbed the gear, till i got the motor running and it sanded its own groove/smooth spot in the gear, it is so insignificant it should not affect performance. I actually didn't check it for bends or noticed any vibes but I did notice a little ridge between filing points on the key mark you made on the shaft, it is possible i'm sitting right on that. I'm not sure exactly what the cause is. I did get it working fine though and am going out to the field for the first time in almost a month and a half, now that my 4f200 is back up and running. The winds here at the field have been over 8 mph and random gusts swing through out of no where of up to 25 mph since its such a huge wide open area. I'll run like 5 packs through on the clutch and hope for the best weather and no mishaps, let you know.
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Old Mar 31, 2012, 12:31 PM
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United States, MI, Livonia
Joined Apr 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IntegrityHndywrk View Post
Well i even went to the trouble of removing the set screw to make sure it was threaded in properly. It didn't appear stripped. The head of the set screw was hardly protruding. It was mainly,for lack of a better word, the "sharp" edges it was putting on the outside edge of the allen hole. There is absolutely no space between the collar and gear so they rub smooth all the way around the collar and at first, the ruff (finely sanded) spot around the set screw from filing it down actually grabbed the gear, till i got the motor running and it sanded its own groove/smooth spot in the gear, it is so insignificant it should not affect performance. I actually didn't check it for bends or noticed any vibes but I did notice a little ridge between filing points on the key mark you made on the shaft, it is possible i'm sitting right on that. I'm not sure exactly what the cause is. I did get it working fine though and am going out to the field for the first time in almost a month and a half, now that my 4f200 is back up and running. The winds here at the field have been over 8 mph and random gusts swing through out of no where of up to 25 mph since its such a huge wide open area. I'll run like 5 packs through on the clutch and hope for the best weather and no mishaps, let you know.
Those little ridges are for the cup on the set screw to seat into so that you don't have to tighten it to much and still have it so it can not slip up and down the length of the shaft..

I think on the next batch I'll take the notch a little deeper and see what happens..

Thanks for your feed back.. Bob
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Old Mar 31, 2012, 12:58 PM
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United States, FL, Palm Coast
Joined Mar 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by livonia bob View Post
Those little ridges are for the cup on the set screw to seat into so that you don't have to tighten it to much and still have it so it can not slip up and down the length of the shaft..

I think on the next batch I'll take the notch a little deeper and see what happens..

Thanks for your feed back.. Bob
Thats what i figured. It is working fine though and to be perfectly honest it would have probably cut a spot in the gear and been fine anyway. I just wanted to avoid that in case i have to replace that gear ever. AND OF COURSE!!!! Wouldn't you know it, i have 3 birds ready to fly and all my packs charged, shoes on, aluminum cases packed in the truck. LETS GO!!! awww damit. GIANT thunder storm passing over central and north florida. I'm screwed. Looks like another day of hovering in my garage.. /sigh.
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Old Mar 31, 2012, 04:18 PM
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United States, MI, Livonia
Joined Apr 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IntegrityHndywrk View Post
Thats what i figured. It is working fine though and to be perfectly honest it would have probably cut a spot in the gear and been fine anyway. I just wanted to avoid that in case i have to replace that gear ever. AND OF COURSE!!!! Wouldn't you know it, i have 3 birds ready to fly and all my packs charged, shoes on, aluminum cases packed in the truck. LETS GO!!! awww damit. GIANT thunder storm passing over central and north florida. I'm screwed. Looks like another day of hovering in my garage.. /sigh.
At least you're warm,, winter came back up here..
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Old Mar 31, 2012, 09:28 PM
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Originally Posted by livonia bob View Post
At least you're warm,, winter came back up here..
The rain broke for a few hours and i managed to go out there anyway. The tail was a little loose at first but i adjusted the clutch and it was good. The tail held strong and flew nice. The only problem i had was when i went to invert the D02s with the clutch it went into a tail spin and got all confused. I'm not sure if its the clutch or something else because i just replaced the whole tail section including the boom and tail box. I never had to adjust the RX before but maybe i need to adjust the gains? I did however shoot a video with my first home made hat cam. The angle of the camera fell and you cant see most of the flying, so i might cut that part. But i shot some video of me thrashing the tail in some 3 inch high grass and even cutting some the second time. With a nice little crash because the gyro decides to go crazy. I brutalized it, in my opinion anyway. Less than these actions has resulted in me replacing gears in the past. I will post the video later. I for one am very impressed, it has allowed me to fly in my yard again that much is for sure.
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Old Apr 01, 2012, 02:03 PM
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I only have three V2 slipper clutches left in stock now..
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Old Apr 01, 2012, 02:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IntegrityHndywrk View Post
The rain broke for a few hours and i managed to go out there anyway. The tail was a little loose at first but i adjusted the clutch and it was good. The tail held strong and flew nice. The only problem i had was when i went to invert the D02s with the clutch it went into a tail spin and got all confused. I'm not sure if its the clutch or something else because i just replaced the whole tail section including the boom and tail box. I never had to adjust the RX before but maybe i need to adjust the gains? I did however shoot a video with my first home made hat cam. The angle of the camera fell and you cant see most of the flying, so i might cut that part. But i shot some video of me thrashing the tail in some 3 inch high grass and even cutting some the second time. With a nice little crash because the gyro decides to go crazy. I brutalized it, in my opinion anyway. Less than these actions has resulted in me replacing gears in the past. I will post the video later. I for one am very impressed, it has allowed me to fly in my yard again that much is for sure.
Did you set the heli back up right mechanically first using RATE mode to adjust the servo/slider/hovering for hands off no TX rudder trim flight? Before flying it in HH mode??
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Old Apr 01, 2012, 03:21 PM
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Originally Posted by livonia bob View Post
Did you set the heli back up right mechanically first using RATE mode to adjust the servo/slider/hovering for hands off no TX rudder trim flight? Before flying it in HH mode??
Actually no, I test flew it before trying to adjust the rudder to see where it would be at. It seamed so close to the way it flew before so i didn't see how much more i could adjust it. Is it just a matter of switching the RX to rate mode after pairing and setting it to "center" then switching it back to HH? I really am more mechanically knowledgeable when it comes to my heli experience. I have not had to do much adjusting on the rx so i've been kind of winging it. This info might help me balance out my d05 also. But i'm pretty sure the issue with the d05 is it needs weight added to the front. Anyway Its still flying normal forward without any noticeable tail drift or anything, but when it goes to flip the elevator seems to loose a lot of its throw just as its getting to inverted but then just cant make the whole flip and decides to tail spin, especially as i give it more negative pitch to try and lift it up. It just ends up head first on the ground every time. i've even tryed getting it higher in the air and doing a loop with the same result. a very hard smash into the ground. Still flying though . I used to be able to loop it in forward flight no problem so it must be my inexperience setting the RX correctly. I do not use trim or subtrim on the TX to adjust anything though. I usually just fly it, unplug battery, adjust linkage. Rebind on level surface and check swash and rudder are in their proper position. Fly it, land it, recheck position after hover. repeat as needed. Worked for me so far, but obviously not correct i suppose.
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