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Old Feb 20, 2012, 12:09 PM
Heli collector
livonia bob's Avatar
United States, MI, Livonia
Joined Apr 2009
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Originally Posted by Kevin Greene View Post
I was getting my Sabre ready to fly this afternoon on my "lunchbreak... " @ work....First thing that I noticed is that this model is VERY tail heavy with the supplied battery...DO NOT try to fly this model without making sure the model balances!!!...In other words for you beginners out there---Don't assume that the model will have the correct CG with the supplied battery and fly out of the box!!!

Next, I connected up the AnyLink to my JR 9503 TX and the mapping of the servos is wrong...The throttle is on the elevator channel, ailerons are on the throttle channel, and the elevators are on the aileron channel...The AnyLink instructions talk about re-mapping the RX but I'm going to just do the easy thing by unplugging the servos and re-connecting them in their proper sockets...

Kevin
You didn't read any of the flying/crashing posts?? Maybe they are all on the chat thread??
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Old Feb 20, 2012, 12:13 PM
Hobbico Employee
Champaign, IL
Joined Sep 2006
75 Posts
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Originally Posted by Kevin Greene View Post

Next, I connected up the AnyLink to my JR 9503 TX and the mapping of the servos is wrong...The throttle is on the elevator channel, ailerons are on the throttle channel, and the elevators are on the aileron channel...The AnyLink instructions talk about re-mapping the RX but I'm going to just do the easy thing by unplugging the servos and re-connecting them in their proper sockets...

Kevin
Changing the mapping on AnyLink is a snap. You only have to do it once and would save you unplugging those little servo connectors.

Here is a link to a quick video that will show you how to do it :
How to use Tactic™ AnyLink with JR® and Spektrum® Radios (1 min 52 sec)
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Old Feb 20, 2012, 12:18 PM
Way to many airplanes!
Canada, QC
Joined Oct 2009
5,403 Posts
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Originally Posted by livonia bob View Post
A all to common mistake.. I now leave them long and fold them over neatly..


Longer tabs also helps keep me from melting a hole in the battery bag and letting all the smoke out that trapped in there..

I do trim off a bit of the Hyperion tabs but only after I have soldered on the wire..
Well, never had problems with the other batteries including the Hyperions, which I find very easy to solder, so not sure I would say it's a common problem... Cutting tabs save weight, and I would worry about pulling on the wires and suddenly unwraping that long tab and shorting something... Simply wasn't expecting HK to use some metal from out of space for their batteries!!!

Sure enough, from now on, I may keep the long tabs on those NanoTech... Or cut them, but simply spot weld them at work.
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Old Feb 20, 2012, 12:31 PM
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United States, TN, Jackson
Joined Mar 2007
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Originally Posted by livonia bob View Post
You didn't read any of the flying/crashing posts?? Maybe they are all on the chat thread??
I did read them but thought that the plane was only slightly out of balance...Mine is soooo tail heavy I'm thinking that mine has extra glue back there...I'm talking at least a FULL INCH back from the aileron pivots/bellcranks that are mounted in the wing......Seriously, mine is back to over 50% of the wing chord!!!

I was just putting an exclamation point to check the CG 'cause it isn't off a little but a BUNCH!!!

Kevin
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Old Feb 20, 2012, 12:35 PM
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livonia bob's Avatar
United States, MI, Livonia
Joined Apr 2009
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Originally Posted by RealGambler View Post
Well, never had problems with the other batteries including the Hyperions, which I find very easy to solder, so not sure I would say it's a common problem... Cutting tabs save weight, and I would worry about pulling on the wires and suddenly unwraping that long tab and shorting something... Simply wasn't expecting HK to use some metal from out of space for their batteries!!!

Sure enough, from now on, I may keep the long tabs on those NanoTech... Or cut them, but simply spot weld them at work.
Well I have had tabs that I just couldn't solder too,, so now I just solder as short as it will take the solder and what ever is left I trim off. I don't trim first. The NanoTech tabs were already short and had solder on them so it was a easy thing to just solder my made up already charger plug and Deans assembly.. Takes longer to remove the plastic cap and hot glue then to solder on the new wires..

I was looking at the Hyperion 250's and it's going to be a lot harder to take the plastic caps off them as they use a lot more glue..
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Old Feb 20, 2012, 12:50 PM
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United States, MI, Livonia
Joined Apr 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kevin Greene View Post
I did read them but thought that the plane was only slightly out of balance...Mine is soooo tail heavy I'm thinking that mine has extra glue back there...I'm talking at least a FULL INCH back from the aileron pivots/bellcranks that are mounted in the wing......Seriously, mine is back to over 50% of the wing chord!!!

I was just putting an exclamation point to check the CG 'cause it isn't off a little but a BUNCH!!!

Kevin
When looking at the belly of the plane you will see the first panel line that crosses the fuselage to the rear of where the aileron rods come out.. This panel line is on mine the 70mm point. With the 320 battery I'm 5mm in front of the line, and I think 3mm in front would be perfect..
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Old Feb 20, 2012, 01:16 PM
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Canada
Joined Aug 2009
19,474 Posts
Awesome

Thanks for this

Will use this for Mode 1



Quote:
Originally Posted by dieter88 View Post
Changing the mapping on AnyLink is a snap. You only have to do it once and would save you unplugging those little servo connectors.

Here is a link to a quick video that will show you how to do it : http://youtu.be/K8oDfSw38v8
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Old Feb 20, 2012, 01:52 PM
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United States, TN, Jackson
Joined Mar 2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dieter88 View Post
Changing the mapping on AnyLink is a snap. You only have to do it once and would save you unplugging those little servo connectors.

Here is a link to a quick video that will show you how to do it : http://youtu.be/K8oDfSw38v8
Thanks Dieter88...But I already swapped them between posting and then getting back on here again...If you aren't patient with tedious jobs then I suggest you use the AnyLink mapping...GP has done a very good job keeping the weight down by using the least amount of wiring possible...The ESC wires/plug will BARELY stretch over to channel 1---If not careful you could damage the wires.......

The only concern that I have with changing some things from their default settings is that certain conditions can cause the electronics to revert back to defaults...For example a spark during connection, static discharge, etc...For this reason I NEVER program an ESC for reverse rotation---I always reverse two motor wires to reverse the rotation due to seeing an ESC revert back to defaults, only to have the motor run backwards and the prop striking the unsuspecting modelers fingers...I'm NOT saying that the AnyLink is capable of this fluke---Just one of the things I've witnessed that has made me cautious (read paranoid...) over the 40+ years I have been modeling......

Again, THANKS for the posting of the video!!!

Kevin
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Old Feb 20, 2012, 01:54 PM
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United States, TN, Jackson
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Originally Posted by livonia bob View Post
When looking at the belly of the plane you will see the first panel line that crosses the fuselage to the rear of where the aileron rods come out.. This panel line is on mine the 70mm point. With the 320 battery I'm 5mm in front of the line, and I think 3mm in front would be perfect..
WOW!!!...I think that GP needs to re-think the battery requirements for this plane...Minimum of 240mAh...Version II/second batch would allow GP to swap out the battery...

Kevin
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Old Feb 20, 2012, 02:55 PM
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United States, MI, Livonia
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Originally Posted by Kevin Greene View Post
WOW!!!...I think that GP needs to re-think the battery requirements for this plane...Minimum of 240mAh...Version II/second batch would allow GP to swap out the battery...

Kevin
Just remember that my first batch of pitch up crashes where with the 240 battery..

If on takeoff it's heading to the sky and you can't force the nose down, just let it stall out and flip over and be ready to fly it as the nose is now pointing down..
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Old Feb 20, 2012, 03:10 PM
Team30 Micro EDF
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Adelaide, Australia
Joined Apr 2004
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Originally Posted by village_idiot View Post
I shouldn't be posting but I see a problem about to happen and some very sad people will be the result.... If you simply switch the connections you could have a run away. If the user manual is correct this system has hold last on all channels except throttle, and throttle is set at bind, this is the throttle where the system thinks it should be, not where you choose to plug it in. This is the same as many of the Spektrum receivers.

As far as the mode 1 vs. mode 2, I would have thought that no matter which mode the TX is using that the output channel order would have been the same, but I could be wrong.
Thanks for posting that VI. I am not sure why you felt otherwise. It is a brilliant observation that I will try out right now. It hadn't occurred to me a lockout may do as you said.

Having just tried a lockout - every control surface and fan throttle stayed exactly where it was until I plugged back in the Anylink module. So last settings stay where they are on signal loss.
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Old Feb 20, 2012, 03:15 PM
Inciting Riots
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Joined Dec 2006
9,682 Posts
The assigned throttle channel said it was supposed to go to the bind position which like Spektrum should normally be low throttle but they said you can set it to any position based on your needs (like a gasser going to low idle instead of off). But this might have been based on the FCC version of the manual, they could have changed things slightly for the release so it is worth going to the alternate (JR/Spektrum) mapping and giving it a check. If the throttle still doesn't go to bind position (or no signal) then I would call that a bug that needs fixing. Too many posts about people who didn't set failsafe and watched their plane fly off into the sunset never to be recovered.
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Old Feb 20, 2012, 07:12 PM
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United States, CO, Longmont
Joined Nov 2011
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Ok, I'm so thankfull that we still have snow on the ground around here and I'm being a big sally and not flyin this Sabre!
cuz I need to add about 2.5g of weight to the front of this plane just to get to the 70mm cg
so what is and where is the best place to add the weight??
I was thinkin on the bottom of the nose of the plane... adding weight low I thought that would be the best??
anyone with good ideas here?
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Old Feb 20, 2012, 07:27 PM
The building never ends!
Tucson, AZ
Joined Oct 2008
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Today was very calm, with only light and variable winds, so I took the Sabre out to the local school field to try to stall it. With the wing fences in place, I tried to go into loops without enough speed (it fell over onto its back at the top, unlike my flights before the mod, where it'd stand on its tail and try to fall out of the sky.) I cut the throttle and brought the nose up, and slowed way down to stall speed (the stall now consists of the plane mushing forward into a slow descent marked by a level to slightly nose-up posture with the wings gently rocking.)

So I'm sure I've licked the pitch-up on stall problem, and I'm flying at the manual's recommended CG.

Here's how to do it:

1) Take clear, stiff plastic packaging material. Cut a pair of 2" x 3/4" strips. Set them aside.
2) There are a set of moulded panel lines near the fuselage on the top side of the wings. Take two measurements about an inch apart on these panel lines. The goal is to measure 3-1/4" down the wing from that panel line.
3) Join the two marks you made with a straight line two inches long. Mark with pencil first, and then lightly scour the line with a hobby knife. This line must be perfectly straight!
4) Take the raw strips you cut earlier. Carve carefully . . . the point is to end up with a strip about 3/8" wide that matches the curvature of the wing from the leading edge back. Test-fit frequently until the strips slot neatly into the wings.
5) Secure with foam-safe CA.
6) Go fly!
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Old Feb 20, 2012, 10:29 PM
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United States, CO, Colorado Springs
Joined Jan 2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by village_idiot View Post
Great.... So my umxBeast batteries will work in this if I change the connector! That at least is a plus.
For you folks with this plane, I now have a new adapter, by request from a customer.

This will let you use one of your existing 2S JST-male batteries with the GP Micro F-86.

JST-Female to minideans, with the positive line exposed. (I think this is backwards too, personally)

Available here:

http://www.rc-connectors.com/index.p...roducts_id=359

I will also have one soon for all your Parkzone/Horizon 2S batteries (Beast, Sbach, Mig-15, Stryker 180, etc)

Thanks,

Glenn
RC-Connectors.com
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