This thread is an attempt to answer some questions and offer some build advise once you get a wing from me. First will be sanding joiners and drilling alignment pins. Lots more to follow...

A New Build Log has been started here:
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1839092

On to alignment pins...

I'm only 5'4" so standing next to 147" is a big contrast.

Now on to the pylon mounts. I'm using 5 ply from balsausa. Same as whats in the joiners. West systems and cotton fiber filler will glue them in.

Wing mounting hardware from McMaster-Carr.

10-24 bolt with insert for main bolt and 8-32 nylon and insert for rear. Thats for thoses wingtip landings we never make.

A small break to beat the air into submission.

Here is the overview: Drill holes forward as possible while being careful that you have room in the middle of the pylon for the servo wires to exit between the ply mounting blocks. Mine might be a little too much as the pylon will be starting at the very front of the wing. I might need a little Bondo to fill any gap that the missing platform would have filled. This is all in an effort to save a little nose weight.

Onwards!

The critical part

Now we are almost ready to make holes in our pretty wing. Remember, I do this for extra This really doesn't have to be as crazy accure as you think. We will be gluing in the servos as per methods suggested by Gordy Stahl, so any extra space will get fill in by epoxy. And in my case cotton fiber filler.

The first picture you can see the difference in the frames between the Voltz mini maxx (left) and wing maxx (right).

And we fire up the dremel!

I would also mention with the Mini Maxx servo frames being so bulky... Reinforce the servo bay with a stress skin wing. Fortunately I build with a spar in the center panel and most of the load is not carried on the skin.

If you don't have servo frames my next best suggestion would be to find some large heat shrink your servos will fit in. I then would glue them in as well. If you need excess to them again you can cut the heat shrink and pull out your servo. You could then tape them back in. Both frame and heat shrink ideas are not mine... Thanks, Jack and Gordy

Hi Guys,

The Wing Maxx Frames have tabs, many of the present day other brand clones of thin servos have mounting tabs on them too.

You don't need a full plywood frame around them, you just need to glue in some 3/16" or 1/4" blocks under the tabs for screws to go into. Keeps weight down and simple to install.

You'll notice the plastic grocery bag 'condom' on the Micro Maxx servo in its mount. That allows you to splooge the entire bottom of the mount, then press it GENTLY will twisting it slightly into place.

The same can be done with the Wing Maxx(thin servos), place the bag completely under the servo and its frame, then push the mounting blocks up under the screw tabs, and screw the blocks in place. Splooge the entire bottom of the assembly and gently twist push into place. When its hardened you can still remove the servo, and the extra splooge has made a molded 'bed' for the servo frame. Using a ply bed like is shown in the photo is not needed, just blocks under the two side tabs, the bottom tab is only used when the servo is mounted for a "side pull" use. For our use, only the side tabs need to have screws.

I wanted to include some pictures of the wing tip install.

Don't forget to tie the connectors so that they arern't accidently pulled apart when you remove the tips from the center panel. Floss works or some use shrink wrap. I like floss or thread because the idea of the connector is to make the servo field replaceable.

Gordy