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Old Jan 21, 2012, 06:11 PM
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Not in my exp

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Originally Posted by locktite401 View Post
The man that made the piston didn't talk to the man that made the liner.

I always found the cyl to piston fit to be good with the MVVS , and I always fit an engine before running it ..

Even used engines , I would take them home , strip them , and see what damage needed fixing , never ever run an engine out of the box , people that do usually end up doing some damage to the engine ..

My first RV MVVS , I fitted up sweet , worked to bottom end till it was as good as I could get it , then fitted the rear valve disc , then fitted the Piston cyl , and then ran it in .

Was a very nice engine , dont recall if I messed with the timings at all , but if you want power , then you got to check the timings on the engine and set it up for the rev range you want to run ...
The one I posted a pic of , was the second one I got , and if mem serves I only got around to setting up the bottom end , I assembled it for the photo , and if I ever tried to run it , the piston cyl would require fitting .
And the timings checked
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Old Jan 21, 2012, 06:20 PM
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An old British Girl

A very old girl from a bye gone era ..

Im the second owner , the original owner bought the engine from England and actually flew Class A with it ..

When I got it , it was some what worn , but back then I had some ED parts engines , and I was able to re-build it internally , I had enough parts to fix two other engines as well for other people ..

This one still needs some running in , and is a very good sample of the breed .
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Old Jan 21, 2012, 07:22 PM
Greggles47
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Sydney OZ
Joined May 2007
400 Posts
Actually Ray, I'm sure the piston man & liner man were very close. PL fit was & still is very nice.

The problem for me is the rear induction system, either I have assembled it incorrectly (not an impossibility) or it just plain doesn't work the way it should. I haven't really invested the time in getting it sorted, as I have too many other motors that work the way I want them to. And after all I'd rather fly than tinker with stuff I don't know much about.

Regards

G
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Old Jan 21, 2012, 08:13 PM
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Ok

There are two ways the disc can go ..

The right way . and the wrong way ..

Just remove the venturi , and check when the disc opens ..

Should open some time after Bottom Dead Centre ...

just rotate the engine in the direction it runs , and see if its opening 40 to 50 deg after BDC ..

If its not , the disc has been aligned the wrong way or incorrectly ...

If you rock the engine around BDC , the disc should follow precisely , if it stops for any reason the pin that engages the disc , may not be seated in the little hole that its supposed to drive the disc ...

Getting old !!! , also , what size is the venturi , they came with two , 4.5mm and 6mm , even the 4.5mm was a little too large to run suction , if you want to run it , you might want a 3mm or 3.5mm venturi made ..
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Old Jan 21, 2012, 08:59 PM
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Originally Posted by old4570 View Post
A very old girl from a bye gone era ..
Now that's interesting. Mine is somewhat like yours with the missing exhaust stacks although mine still has the raised part front and rear. I've been told the exhausts had been cut off (apparently quite common back then) but for the life of me I can't figure out how they could have been cut off and still retain the same surface finish as the rest of the crankcase, especially how the upper part of the crankcase has been rounded with no machining marks whatsoever.

Mine is actually a mix of 2 engines. The original was a Mk1 that had sat in a box for who-knows-how-many-years (the box is marked as MARK III Series 2 but the photo shows a Mark I) and, as you can see from a photo below, it didn't look all that great . However I remembered I had an old crankcase in a drawer somewhere which is what's now on the engine and I believe is a Mark II. That crankcase went under in the '74 Ipswich flood and was given to me. After a bit of a wash it came up perfect, as were the original bearings which I left in there during the cleaning (ultrasonic). Unfortunately I had to use the original backplate which is terribly corroded but still useable but the engine itself feels silky smooth with lovely compression. If I ever get some diesel fuel I'll give it a run.
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Old Jan 21, 2012, 11:51 PM
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This is a pic of the ETA .29 mk6 (not 6c) that Greg and myself have been running in Vintage B Team Race with a few minor successes in competition. It's now been replaced by a new 6c that's still being run in.

The 6 will then get a rebuild.

Ray
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Old Jan 22, 2012, 04:40 PM
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Glow

I never thought much of the plain bearing glow Taipans till I came to this one , actually runs well ..

I had a few when younger and they were dogs , so was a little surprised when this one actually ran well [ and produced some power ]
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Old Jan 22, 2012, 06:29 PM
Greggles47
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Sydney OZ
Joined May 2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by old4570 View Post
I never thought much of the plain bearing glow Taipans till I came to this one , actually runs well ..

I had a few when younger and they were dogs , so was a little surprised when this one actually ran well [ and produced some power ]
I have one of these in my Frisky, it was a bit of a basket case, but a nSW based engine man rebuilt it for me. Now a nice performer - The Frisky however is in the process of a bit of cosmetic revival. Too much hanger rash.

My Tyro is in the Stiletto. One of my favourite motors. Powerful, easy starting just a lovely thing.

Regards

G
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Old Jan 22, 2012, 11:52 PM
My view over the back fence..
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Australia, NSW, Moree
Joined Sep 2011
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Originally Posted by downunder View Post
And that ex Tony Cincotta Taipan is the first of the series with the small width rear bearing. I have one of them (well used but still runs great) and a NIB late gold head with the plastic backplate. You can see how the early version crankcase lines up with the cylinder while the later ones had the crankcase slightly extended for the wider bearing.
Thanks for the picks and the great memories!

I had a "Gold top" Taipan that I converted to diesel in the mid 70's, to use in FAI team race. My brother and I used it to come in second at the 1976(?) Bunbury nationals against Bugls and Rossis etc. We set fastest time in the heats and only lost the final due to a line tangle / prang.

Sorry, no fotos, I loaned it to a friend years ago. I hope he still has it, I must look him up.....
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Old Jan 23, 2012, 12:47 AM
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Wow

Would love to hear more about that converted Gold Top Steve , sounds like a very interesting tale .. [ Love engine talk ]


Another motor , Enya 15D MK1 , single ball race ...
Never saw one break , but apparently could break the crank , I think Robbin Heirn ran one in Vintage Class A before everyone went CS Oliver [ replica ]

Never ran this MK1 , but I did run a MK2 , and will dig it out and post a picture next ... [ This one is still internally in good condition ]
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Old Jan 23, 2012, 01:48 AM
My view over the back fence..
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Australia, NSW, Moree
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Originally Posted by old4570 View Post
Would love to hear more about that converted Gold Top Steve , sounds like a very interesting tale .. [ Love engine talk ]
I cut about the top 5 mm off another liner, and sat it upside down on the top of the original liner. A contra piston from a Super Tiger .15 was a perfect fit and went down 2~3mm into the bottom liner and left 2~3mm protruding into the top liner to hold it all straight. The glow head was machined out to fit over the "top" liner, and the head screws held it all together. I hope that all makes sense! A 1/4 32 bolt went through the glow plug hole to move the contra piston, and turned with a glow spanner! A nylon insert in the front intake allowed Cox TD .049 venturis of various sizes to be used.

Back when Rossi's cost a packet, and Bugls must have been made of gold, it was a somewhat agricultural solution for an always broke farm boy. A new engine could be bought for about $20~25 bucks in the control line (no RC carby or muffler) version. A new piston and liner was less than $10 bucks from memory, and the local bush hobby shop had them in stock. The big plus was we were never scared to practice with the motor and wear it out, where as the Bugl owners only bought theirs out for the state champs or nationals.
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Old Jan 23, 2012, 04:26 AM
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Wow

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Originally Posted by Aussie Steve View Post
I cut about the top 5 mm off another liner, and sat it upside down on the top of the original liner. A contra piston from a Super Tiger .15 was a perfect fit and went down 2~3mm into the bottom liner and left 2~3mm protruding into the top liner to hold it all straight. The glow head was machined out to fit over the "top" liner, and the head screws held it all together. I hope that all makes sense! A 1/4 32 bolt went through the glow plug hole to move the contra piston, and turned with a glow spanner! A nylon insert in the front intake allowed Cox TD .049 venturis of various sizes to be used.

Back when Rossi's cost a packet, and Bugls must have been made of gold, it was a somewhat agricultural solution for an always broke farm boy. A new engine could be bought for about $20~25 bucks in the control line (no RC carby or muffler) version. A new piston and liner was less than $10 bucks from memory, and the local bush hobby shop had them in stock. The big plus was we were never scared to practice with the motor and wear it out, where as the Bugl owners only bought theirs out for the state champs or nationals.
Wow , thanks , an interesting solution .. How long did it take to wear out + how did the engine put up with being a diesel ?
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Old Jan 23, 2012, 06:32 PM
My view over the back fence..
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Australia, NSW, Moree
Joined Sep 2011
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Originally Posted by old4570 View Post
Wow , thanks , an interesting solution .. How long did it take to wear out + how did the engine put up with being a diesel ?
The motor handled it well. It had those 4 long bolts down through the head and into the case below the cylinder, that held it all together. They never failed, or even came loose from memory. The conrod, crankshaft, and the bearings all held up well. We certainly weren't replacing parts every week. I lapped in the crankshaft to the front housing, and the piston to the liner, and the bearings were made a looser push fit in the case. It went fastest with best range when it was pretty loose, just before it was clapped out. When it got harder to start at the pit stops, it was time for a rebuild.

It was easy to tune for a solid run, and had no real vices that I recall. When I first built it, I put it in a profile Goodyear model and it didn't work at all. Just as it would come on song, it would straight away overheat and sag bigtime. I thought it was the rear exhaust overheating the rear of the motor. I still went ahead and built a team racer, with plenty of cooling to the rear of the engine. It was a different motor entirely then, and ran beautifully.

As I have no pics atm, here is a drawing to explain the mods a bit better.
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Old Jan 23, 2012, 07:48 PM
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Thank you

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Originally Posted by Aussie Steve View Post
The motor handled it well. It had those 4 long bolts down through the head and into the case below the cylinder, that held it all together. They never failed, or even came loose from memory. The conrod, crankshaft, and the bearings all held up well. We certainly weren't replacing parts every week. I lapped in the crankshaft to the front housing, and the piston to the liner, and the bearings were made a looser push fit in the case. It went fastest with best range when it was pretty loose, just before it was clapped out. When it got harder to start at the pit stops, it was time for a rebuild.

It was easy to tune for a solid run, and had no real vices that I recall. When I first built it, I put it in a profile Goodyear model and it didn't work at all. Just as it would come on song, it would straight away overheat and sag bigtime. I thought it was the rear exhaust overheating the rear of the motor. I still went ahead and built a team racer, with plenty of cooling to the rear of the engine. It was a different motor entirely then, and ran beautifully.

As I have no pics atm, here is a drawing to explain the mods a bit better.
Thank you , sounds like a worth while mod [ if I ever get another lathe ]

I understand what you did , and its brilliant .. [ Just love it ]

I purchased some ZOM glow motors way back , and they ran like DOG's [ not Greyhounds ] but like Corgi's .. Airborne mag gave them a rave , so I purchased 3 , they were awful ..

Never could get them to work as glow motors ..

So when I had my old Qualos(?) Lathe I converted one to diesel , to see if it would run as such , and to my surprise , actually ran reasonably well . No power house , but well enough to pull a model around on a 8x4 with some vigour .. I still have 2 in parts so if I ever get another lathe , they will be moded to diesel .
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Old Jan 23, 2012, 08:16 PM
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Enya 15D MK2

The Enya 15D MK2 , what a sweet motor , once you got it started and warmed up , till then it was a bit of a beast ... [ Thank goodness for the CS Oliver replicas ]

This one got modified by accident : ()

A friend had a MK2 as well , but with a broken crank , so he asked me to make him a new one , which I did , but his rod was badly worn , so I tried to bush it and the big end blew apart when trying to press fit the bush ..

The rod alloy was turning into white powder on the inside [ Crystallized ??? ] anyway's , it was easier to give him my con rod , and make myself a new one ..

Unfortunately some where along the way I stuffed up , and made the rod 1mm or so too long , lowering the exhaust timing way much ..

I was too lazy to make a new rod , so raised the exhaust port and moded the by pass to make it more to my liking ..

I gained some 2000RPM from this folly on the ground ...

So that's more or less how I accidentally modified my Enya 15D MK2 ...

Added picture of DIY rod
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