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Old Aug 10, 2012, 06:38 PM
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Still $28 for me here in Canada.
He does mention that you can combine items and get a break on shipping.

What breaks on the crank? Just the threaded part?
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Old Aug 10, 2012, 06:46 PM
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It's $28 plus $5 each additional item shipping for P Mackenzie and myself. $202.80 plus maybe 13% HST if we are unlucky. $229.16 for 4 motors, or 57.29 each. Only in Canada eh. Usually the port window according to the forums. The wall is too thin. Heat treating doesn't really help.
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Old Aug 10, 2012, 07:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Gnu4FF View Post
He's asking only $10 shipping now.
It's the International shipping that's $28. The blokes in our club have bought another 3-4 (I don't remember which) and he's given them a price break on shipping.

Ray
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Old Aug 10, 2012, 07:38 PM
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How much $ for the mods to make it usable?
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Old Aug 10, 2012, 07:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Gnu4FF View Post
How much $ for the mods to make it usable?
There is a good thread over on RCU with some details:
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_83...tm.htm#8380332

Seems like the cranks just fail, so not an easy fix.
One guy is making new cranks for his, not something that just anyone can do.
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Old Aug 10, 2012, 07:49 PM
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Galbreath wants around $160. He changes the stroke of the crank to make it a real .049, not a .052 or whatever. It needs the head turned, a venturi and a driveplate for a plane. I thought I would just forget about the stroke for now, and make the other stuff. I have lathes and mills. I can't use them at the field because there is a muffler rule but could figure out something. I don't know if Mr. Galbreath would do half of the changes or not. I thought he had them for $29 but never contacted him or anything. (I have trouble getting stuff shipped to the door. Upper management problems, she doesn't approve.) I have been thinking of making a couple of cranks without grinding them but don't know if it is worth the trouble and if the tolerances will go away after heat treating. A Fora is easier and a rear exh.
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Old Aug 11, 2012, 12:42 AM
Greggles47
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Sydney OZ
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Originally Posted by locktite401 View Post
I've just finished some work on converting this .85cc (050) OFNA Picco 1/16 Buggy motor into a control line engine. Bob Fisher did the head trimming and the tapered collet/prop driver, and I did the venturi plug and assembly (from some Cox TD parts) and the prop sleeve nut. It comes with a Turbo plug head button and an r/c carby.

The motor is brand new otherwise and was bought on US ebay for USD40. There's (plenty left!)
Ray,

Why did you (or Alan) want to use a Cox Venturi on it? A more elegant solution would be a peripheral jetted venturi with the NVA through the retaining pin hole?

There doesn't seem to be a lot of clearance between the Venturi & the prop - certainly a common problem with the littleys.


Greg
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Old Aug 11, 2012, 07:12 AM
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Originally Posted by greggles47 View Post
Ray,

Why did you (or Alan) want to use a Cox Venturi on it? A more elegant solution would be a peripheral jetted venturi with the NVA through the retaining pin hole?

There doesn't seem to be a lot of clearance between the Venturi & the prop - certainly a common problem with the littleys.


Greg
Greg,

the Cox TD 049 venturi assembly was just simpler (quick and dirty?) and only required a venturi adaptor with a 1/4" x 32 tpi thread.

I have a few TD spares and the similar R150 venturi and banjo would be the Rolls Royce solution The NVA through the R/C clinch bolt hole does require a rather short finely pitched 4mm diameter device c/w a normal .15 sized ST version. It may be required to work at say one turn open or less on an 049 sized engine. There weren't any such promising NVA's around in "shed Fairall".

There actually is sufficient clearance for the venturi, it just doesn't look like it!

No doubt Alan will attempt to run it this week at MP as soon as the August cyclonic weather conditions abate slightly.

Ray.
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Old Aug 19, 2012, 07:38 PM
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Would anyone have a copy of the Peter Chinn article on propeller power absorption curves from the article in the April 1994 issue of Aeromodeller?

It has been republished in the ACLN number 35 but it's quite indistinct.

I'm just after a clean scan of the Chinn article.

regards Ray
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Old Aug 20, 2012, 01:10 AM
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Ray
Here's the entire article (courtesy of Maris many years ago) plus an extra comment from the May issue. I used the graph to make a speadsheet so revs on a particular prop could be entered in and instantly show both HP and torque. I've scanned it at a fairly high resolution so the graph (in particular) is clear.

Peter Chinn didn't write the article but had some input as can be seen in the text.

Woop, that didn't show properly because the images somehow got resized smaller than the scans.
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Old Sep 16, 2012, 06:36 AM
Greggles47
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Sydney OZ
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Here's a new one to the stable. A fresh NIB AME .049.

Looks the total business, but doesn't show any willingness to fire. The head is a 2 piece job that appears to be to be modelled on a glo bee type insert, except the insert is threaded for a normal plug. The plug doesn't extend fully into the combustion chamber, there being only a 3mm hole exposing the glow coil to the combustion gasses.

Has anyone had any experience with these little motors? Is the situation I describe normal from the factory set up?
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Old Sep 16, 2012, 12:01 PM
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United States, CA, Gardena
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Quote:
Originally Posted by greggles47 View Post
Here's a new one to the stable. A fresh NIB AME .049.

Looks the total business, but doesn't show any willingness to fire. The head is a 2 piece job that appears to be to be modelled on a glo bee type insert, except the insert is threaded for a normal plug. The plug doesn't extend fully into the combustion chamber, there being only a 3mm hole exposing the glow coil to the combustion gasses.

Has anyone had any experience with these little motors? Is the situation I describe normal from the factory set up?
My AME came with a plastic venturi restrictor and even with that, it wouldn't run on suction. I used a bladder system and a Galbreath, Cox/Nelson head. A standard Cox head should also work.

- Norm
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Old Sep 17, 2012, 04:40 AM
Greggles47
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I tried it today with a Cox head, and got it to run, although not great.

Given the reports that they a hot little jobs, I'm going to make a new head insert for a regular plug - I'm not sure it's worth wasting a Nelson head blank.

There's no venturi insert, so maybe have to blank off a portion to reduce the venturi area.

Greg
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Old Sep 17, 2012, 07:52 AM
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I had one that I wanted to try on a pod for a glider thinking a 6-3" prop would be good. It wouldn't run at all. I put a smaller prop on and it was great. I think I used a TD head, but any of the Norvel, Merlins should be fine. I don't know about the conversion head you have there, it doesn't seem right from your explanation. Mine has a venturi insert with an offset needle valve hole and a .096" hole for the venturi. I think the whole assembly is glued in. I am not sure if I am the one that glued in a restrictor in the venturi or if it came that way. It was a long time ago. It is still on the glider pod from the last time I ran it probably 20 years ago.
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Old Sep 18, 2012, 04:44 AM
Greggles47
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Sydney OZ
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Yeah I've run it on a 6X3 prop and it may be bogging down.

I'll have to find a 6X2 or similar.

Current head is definitely wrong - it'll hardly fire, let alone run. Hopefully I'll get some lathe time tomorrow.

G
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