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Old Dec 31, 2012, 06:58 AM
Brent 黑雁
BThirsk's Avatar
Canada, AB, Ponoka
Joined Jan 2012
1,756 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lentar View Post
I can leave the throttle curve at linear 0 to 100%.

Only thing I'm not happy with is having zero pitch at 50% throttle, as I'm used to flying the 4 ch FP at a little over 50% throttle. If I can get it airborne at 50% throttle, I would maybe avoid the right sided tipover problem I seem to be getting when I have hovering pitch at about 70% throttle. More throttle, more torque, more the chance of tipover while taking off.

So what would you say to -1, 0, 4, an intermediate value, 10 degrees on the 5 point pitch curve. This should let me take off at just over mid-throttle.

Thank you for your help!
These are setting I use for indoor flying. I have a SuperFP and the MiniCP that I alternate flying.
Throttle Curve. Normal Mode
L 0%
M 75%
H 100%
Pitch Curve
L 0%
M 20% (this is about 5 degrees, this is the point you hover at.)
H 50%
I have AIL/ELV Dual rates on the MinCP at 70% and EXPO at 30%.
On the SuperFP, I have the Dual Rates at 110% and EPO at 30% to make it handle almost as well as the MiniCP.
This pitch curve gives you a little softness if you slam the throttle down when nervous and it's soft enough above hover that you won't go through the roof as long as you take it slow as in the previous post.
The higher head speed when lifting off will help eliminate the ground effects.
On my MiniCp, I can slowly lift off with just a slight touch of AIL to control right drift. With the SuperFP because of low head speed on liftoff, you need to get it at least a foot of more in the air to get out of ground effect.
On ST1, I have 0% pitch at Mid stick and 5 degrees at M + 25%. The liftoff is even better and the handling as well, but a little fast for close quarter indoor flying, at least at my skill level.
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Old Dec 31, 2012, 10:38 AM
Registered User
Sweden, Helsingborg
Joined Jun 2012
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Seems there's a new firmware out for the mini cp.

2012-12-28 Mini CP V1.3 This ugprade software optimized the programe,and Solve the self- set fixed ID

wonderful wonderful engrish.
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Old Dec 31, 2012, 08:14 PM
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Joined Nov 2012
25 Posts
posted before about jumpy servos that made the Mini hop... Thought it was the servo... Here my experiences over the last few days:

- problem: jumpy servo, erratically lifting push rod under throttle
- plugged in different servos: it is a board issue, not servo
- after this check: two servos behaving erratically, stupid little sockets on the board and my big fingers!!!!!

Therefore: the sockets on the board are the problem, the servos are fine. Apparently after my many crashes the sockets can have bad connections with the board. I resoldered the sockets. To cut a long story short: resoldered sockets are fine now and all servos work well again.

However: there is a very small capacitor (is that it?) connecting one leg of socket to board and I did not see it at first. After I saw it, found it and soldered it back the servos worked BUT I had now stuffed around too much on this part of the board and damaged the gyro. Result is the unstoppable spinning of heli. When I hold it in my hand though, the servos work fine!!! While this is not really the desired outcome I am now confident that the sockets are a major potential cause of erratic servo behaviour AND that they can be re-soldered IF one is aware of the micro capacitor and the proximity of the gyro chip and is very careful.

Hope this helps people with erratic servos.

Other than this my heli experienced a hell of a lot of heavy crashes... My first CP. Considering this, the board is not too bad.

What other main board issues have you experienced and how did you fix them?
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Old Dec 31, 2012, 08:37 PM
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Joined Oct 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by i812 View Post
IMO, Normal mode is "exactly" like 4 Channel FP.


Zero pitch at 50% throttle is Stunt Mode (not Normal Mode). As was mentioned earlier, it is not recommended to take off in Stunt Mode, and if you're just starting and not comfortable with FP, then it is probably recommended to only fly in Normal Mode until you feel very comfortable with Normal Mode.
This makes excellent sense! I don't understand why the manufacturer gives zero pitch mid-throttle settings in the heli manual both for the "Normal" as well as the "Stunt" curves.




Quote:
Originally Posted by i812 View Post
2) with enough practice (I recommend only practicing in the air at first), you'll get so comfortable at barely nudging the sticks within the correct split second, that you'll be able to expertly give it just the right amount of stick at the exact time to do a scale take off. IMO, trying to do scale take-off before you can fly is like playing Russian Roulette with a gun almost fully loaded (i.e. there isn't enough time to hit TH before a possible blade impact when you're on the ground, so IMO it is better to crash from a few feet up (where there's enough time to hit TH), then it is to crash at full rpm on the ground).
Again I totally agree 100% with this. I'm getting a tipover to the right, not left tendency on takeoff. If its in the air I can handle it, no problem.

I would be very interested in what you have to say about correcting this flying error on my part.


Quote:
Originally Posted by i812 View Post
I don't understand what you were referring to when you posted "-1, 0, 4". I forgot if you were the one that has been posting in this thread, but has a V911? If so, then I'd probably have difficulty trying to give advice using V911? TX "language".
I was giving actual pitch values in degrees of the 5 point pitch curve. The v911 is a 4ch FP, which I can fly. My questions are about a Wasp Nano CP, which is a mini CP clone.

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1797621

It uses the same blades, has a 3 axis FBL system, and even the landing gear is interchangeable with the mini CP according to reports. It does have a different transmitter, but my questions are very general, and if you give me the actual or approximate pitch values, or percentage throttle value that you use on the mini CP, I can use that.

A happy new year to you, and once again thank you for all your help!
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Old Jan 01, 2013, 02:49 AM
...if you take the time
Israel, Tel Aviv
Joined Jul 2012
212 Posts
I've made my first FF yesterday, and it was a blast!
Thanks to all who helped and contribute to this forum, especially to sbstnp and i812.
Happy new year!
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Old Jan 01, 2013, 05:24 AM
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Joined Aug 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lentar View Post
This makes excellent sense! I don't understand why the manufacturer gives zero pitch mid-throttle settings in the heli manual both for the "Normal" as well as the "Stunt" curves.
OK, thanks for explaining what "-1, 0, 4" meant, and reminding me that you're talking about a different clone. I believe the reason for the small negative LOW Throttle setting for Normal Mode is mainly for outdoor flying to help bring the heli down slightly more quickly especially in high wind condition. When I first started CP and was slamming the Throttle stick down every time I panicked, I'm certain that Low negative pitch setting caused me "grief" and ended costing me more broken parts than a zero setting would have, so I changed it to zero. Zero pitch worked like an FP, but lost the "bat out of hell" feeling when trying to quickly go down on purpose. For that reason, and because I was learning Stunt Mode, I eventually forced myself to get into the habit of using TH instead of slamming the Throttle stick. Once I became proficient at instinctively using TH, I reprogrammed the slightly negative Low pitch setting back into Normal mode and now enjoy having the ability of quickly going from high to low altitude within a "heart beat".

As far as I'm concerned the clone Normal curve is the same as Walkera's. As I stated before, even though I'm not very observant, I believe all my heli's aren't able to hover unless throttle is more than about 60%; therefor, as far as I'm concerned 0-60% is useless in Normal mode. IMO, I don't think the 0-60% "feeling" is really appreciated until a person gets inverted. When you're upside down (and sideways), all of a sudden what is going on between 0-60% becomes a blessing, and you'll do everything to "blindly" learn and become instinctively comfortable with the "feel" everywhere between the 0-60% numbers. If you ever plan on flipping out, and being able to smile about it afterwards, then I highly recommend keeping the factory setting, and staying out of that "twilight" zone until you're ready to bend "space-time"!!! In different words, even for newbies flying only in Normal Mode, 0-60% Throttle should probably be reserved for inverted flight. Believe me, if and when you get inverted, it will be such an out of this world experience, you'll probably definitely want to know which way is "down", until then I highly recommend flying "high" (i.e. out of the lower half of Throttle curve) even while in Normal Mode.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Lentar View Post
Again I totally agree 100% with this. I'm getting a tipover to the right, not left tendency on takeoff. If its in the air I can handle it, no problem.

I would be very interested in what you have to say about correcting this flying error on my part.
I don't know what to say about this. If I understand you, and take your words literally, then it sounds "weird"; however, in your thread review you claim you are happy with the way it flies, so I'm thinking we have a misunderstanding, and maybe there is nothing wrong? My non-coaxials tilt left during take off; however once in the air and hovering they are actually tilted slightly to the right. Maybe your "clone" has 6-axis stabilization meaning it has 3 Gyros (sense change in rotation) + 3 Accelerometers (sense gravity and/or change in linear motion). From what I've read, the Walkera Genious CP has 6-axis stabilization, and many people don't like it; however the ones that do like it seem to claim they have to first make certain the RX is "square"/plumb with "gravity" while it is initialized, otherwise it will have severe annoying hands-off drift.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Lentar View Post
I was giving actual pitch values in degrees of the 5 point pitch curve. The v911 is a 4ch FP, which I can fly. My questions are about a Wasp Nano CP, which is a mini CP clone.

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1797621

It uses the same blades, has a 3 axis FBL system, and even the landing gear is interchangeable with the mini CP according to reports. It does have a different transmitter, but my questions are very general, and if you give me the actual or approximate pitch values, or percentage throttle value that you use on the mini CP, I can use that.
As I tried explaining above, although the wording is different, I believe the effect (end result) is the same. I've already given my opinion - I agree with the factory. From reading many posts in the threads, it appears many people prefer many various different settings. I'm a strong believer in individual freedom, so I don't argue with them, and am pleased I have the liberty to be different. I actually smile when I know someone has a different opinion because I view it as a golden opportunity for me to learn form their different successes and failures.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Lentar View Post
A happy new year to you, and once again thank you for all your help!
A happy New Year to you and everyone else also. I have Asian friends that are what I call "superstitious", so I'm often given what I call astrological predictions. I don't believe any of it, but like the "spice" it adds to my life, so I like to share and remind y'all that 2013 is the year of the snake. Last year was the year of the dragon, and it was my first year with CP and trying inverted stuff. At the beginning of last year, I thought I'd be celebrating the end of the year by twisting and turning in every possible direction. Well, that year is over, and it didn't turn out as twisty as I first imagined; however when I learned this year is the snake, it made me think this year (the animal without legs) is the year I'll be twisting and turning in every possible direction, then I got a bigger smile!

Enjoy
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Old Jan 01, 2013, 12:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by i812 View Post
I don't know what to say about this. If I understand you, and take your words literally, then it sounds "weird"; however, in your thread review you claim you are happy with the way it flies, so I'm thinking we have a misunderstanding, and maybe there is nothing wrong? My non-coaxials tilt left during take off; however once in the air and hovering they are actually tilted slightly to the right. Maybe your "clone" has 6-axis stabilization meaning it has 3 Gyros (sense change in rotation) + 3 Accelerometers (sense gravity and/or change in linear motion). From what I've read, the Walkera Genious CP has 6-axis stabilization, and many people don't like it; however the ones that do like it seem to claim they have to first make certain the RX is "square"/plumb with "gravity" while it is initialized, otherwise it will have severe annoying hands-off drift.
I had this problem on subsequent flights, after posting the review, which I thought was due to my poor flying technique. I have since discovered that my tracking was off. I was getting a low speed vibration that disappeared at higher speeds. This was due to one of the blades being a bit loose. Maybe this was messing up the gyro (which is 3 axis, just like the mini CP and not 6 axis like the Genius CP) Now the tracking is ok, and I need to make another test flight to see what happens.
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Old Jan 01, 2013, 12:23 PM
Deviant
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Joined Jul 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lentar View Post
I had this problem on subsequent flights, after posting the review, which I thought was due to my poor flying technique. I have since discovered that my tracking was off. I was getting a low speed vibration that disappeared at higher speeds. This was due to one of the blades being a bit loose. Maybe this was messing up the gyro (which is 3 axis, just like the mini CP and not 6 axis like the Genius CP) Now the tracking is ok, and I need to make another test flight to see what happens.
Check if swash is level too. That has a big impact on how the heli drifts/flies. You don't need tools just eyeball it, if it's tilted it's kinda obvious to the eye.
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Old Jan 03, 2013, 02:39 AM
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Joined Oct 2012
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Removing broken tail rotor

So I've managed to break the tail rotor!

The shaft seems very delicate, and I don't want to damage it trying to pull out the rotor (which seems to be attached quite firmly). What is the procedure to remove it? I was thinking about just cutting it off with a hobby knife? Or maybe I can use my gear puller?
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Old Jan 03, 2013, 03:24 AM
Deviant
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Joined Jul 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lentar View Post
So I've managed to break the tail rotor!

The shaft seems very delicate, and I don't want to damage it trying to pull out the rotor (which seems to be attached quite firmly). What is the procedure to remove it? I was thinking about just cutting it off with a hobby knife? Or maybe I can use my gear puller?
I use my fingers.
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Old Jan 03, 2013, 10:53 PM
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Joined Nov 2012
208 Posts
New reciever

Hi all

The wires that come from the receiver on the mother board for my battery have broken off after I tried to fix them....big failure on my behalf.

So therefore I have ordered a new receiver,

I have never got a new one before and so when I fit it what else do I need to do?...will it bind automatically with my Devo 6s?

Will the settings I already have on my Devo 6s work with the new one?

I have no idea?

Thanks
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Old Jan 03, 2013, 11:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jonnewbie View Post
Hi all

The wires that come from the receiver on the mother board for my battery have broken off after I tried to fix them....big failure on my behalf.

So therefore I have ordered a new receiver,

I have never got a new one before and so when I fit it what else do I need to do?...will it bind automatically with my Devo 6s?

Will the settings I already have on my Devo 6s work with the new one?

I have no idea?

Thanks
i have a devo 8s so im not sure, but on your TX you need to disable fixed ID and you have to do a procedure on the RX, there is a video around to do it

your settings should work
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Old Jan 03, 2013, 11:05 PM
...if you take the time
Israel, Tel Aviv
Joined Jul 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jonnewbie View Post
Hi all

The wires that come from the receiver on the mother board for my battery have broken off after I tried to fix them....big failure on my behalf.

Thanks
If it is just the wires, it should be an easy fix.
If you don't solder, try to find a local electronics repair shop and they will do it for you.

The new rx will bind, but if you are using fixed-id you need to disable it first. You can reeanble once it has bound. Everything will work the same way.
Good luck.
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Old Jan 03, 2013, 11:27 PM
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Originally Posted by PurpleShark View Post
If it is just the wires, it should be an easy fix.
If you don't solder, try to find a local electronics repair shop and they will do it for you.

The new rx will bind, but if you are using fixed-id you need to disable it first. You can reeanble once it has bound. Everything will work the same way.
Good luck.
Thanks ...Had a look on my TX and in Fixed ID it just says On or Off ....it already is set to OFF?

I presume then it will just automatically bind...
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Old Jan 04, 2013, 07:59 AM
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A new RX, will bind like a new Mini.

If and once the RX is programmed to bind to a specific FIXED ID, then un-binding the RX from that FIXED ID will require use of a Bind Plug as specified in the Mini User Manual. I had/have difficulty understanding some of the procedures in the User Manual so after I verified that I understood the FIXED ID un-binding procedure, I posted this slightly easier to understand procedure:

Quote:
Originally Posted by i812 View Post
Thanks mm, the procedure you posted to erase the Fixed ID worked.

Just for clarification here's what I did:

Plug Bind Plug into RX's EL Servo Connector
Plug LiPo into RX's LiPo Connector
Wait for RX LED to slow flash
Remove Bind Plug
Disconnect LiPo
Perform normal TX-RX binding procedure

NOTE: I think if the TX's Model Setting was programmed for FIXED ID, then that Model's FIXED ID setting would also need to be deactivated in the TX. I didn't need to change my TX setting because mine was/is already set to AUTO (I'm trying to bind my TX with someone else's RX that was programmed to bind with FIXED ID but they didn't provide me their FIXED ID code).
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