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Old Oct 27, 2012, 04:36 PM
Deviant
sbstnp's Avatar
Joined Jul 2012
1,190 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Crash Survivor View Post
Guess me & my son have just been lucky then on these mini's.
I've been lucky too, only 1 bent in probably 250 flights, but that one was a perfect crash lol
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Old Oct 27, 2012, 05:56 PM
RC Reviews & Tx Setup Guides
Tom Z's Avatar
United States
Joined Sep 2007
3,492 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by j35u5fr34k View Post
It appears as though I bent the feathering shaft. I held a ruler to the grips with the blades removed and one of them hit and the other was well below the ruler. When I put the blades back on again, I did the same thing with the ruler and the problem was exacerbated at the blade ends. I ordered a new main, feathering shaft, bearings and rotor head. Probably should have included a new set of grips just in case. We'll see. Thanks.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Z View Post
Your welcome.
I think you bent your main shaft.
You can also check this. Power up the heli and look straight down on the head button and give it throttle.
Start from low throttle and work your way up. If the main shaft is bent you will see the button wobble.

If not possibly vertical play in the main shaft like flint723 said. Make sure there
is no up and down play if so check that the main gear is pressed all the way up.
If it is then your main collar must have slipped. Loosen it and slide it back down and tighten the collar.
Tom

Good find on the bent feathering shaft.

You can first try the feathering shaft and see if it solved the low speed vibration. If so you can use the other parts for spare parts.
If the low speed vibration is still there after putting in a new feathering shaft you can try a new main shaft and if that didn't fix it
install the new rotor head.
Or you can install all the parts and you will know the low speed vibration has been fixed.



Tom
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Old Oct 27, 2012, 07:15 PM
rldeveer's Avatar
Big Island of Hawaii
Joined Jan 2011
247 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Crash Survivor View Post
I think it would be very hard to bend the feathering shaft. But what gets messed up making the feathering shaft appear bent are those blade holder rubber O rings the center hole gets oblong/out of round that the feathering shaft rest in. When that happens your blade tracking gets off also.
Replace with 90 durometer -003 o-rings.Much stiffer and lasts longer. Can also use them on the swash horns to stiffen up the servo links.
RD
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Old Oct 28, 2012, 01:14 AM
Deviant
sbstnp's Avatar
Joined Jul 2012
1,190 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by rldeveer View Post
Replace with 90 durometer -003 o-rings.Much stiffer and lasts longer. Can also use them on the swash horns to stiffen up the servo links.
RD
003 rings are a bit thinner than stock dampeners, so you basically need a thin washer otherwise you will get play. Possibly you can run like that though, these micros can take a lot of mechanical imperfections.
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Old Oct 29, 2012, 09:51 AM
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United States, MI, East Tawas
Joined Aug 2011
120 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Z View Post
Good find on the bent feathering shaft.

You can first try the feathering shaft and see if it solved the low speed vibration. If so you can use the other parts for spare parts.
If the low speed vibration is still there after putting in a new feathering shaft you can try a new main shaft and if that didn't fix it
install the new rotor head.
Or you can install all the parts and you will know the low speed vibration has been fixed.



Tom
Now all of a sudden I have a twitchy servo. I believe that it is the collective pitch servo as it is all of a sudden jumping straight up or down. Do I just need to replace the servo or is there something that I could do to fix it?
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Old Oct 29, 2012, 10:30 AM
RC Reviews & Tx Setup Guides
Tom Z's Avatar
United States
Joined Sep 2007
3,492 Posts
I had that happen to me also last year. I think I had to replace the servo but can't remember if it was a bad servo
or something else that was causing the servo to jump.

Tom
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Old Oct 29, 2012, 01:07 PM
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United States, MI, East Tawas
Joined Aug 2011
120 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Z View Post
I had that happen to me also last year. I think I had to replace the servo but can't remember if it was a bad servo
or something else that was causing the servo to jump.

Tom
I think it might be the vibe causing it. Read on another post that it could cause it. I took the tail motor and the main motor offline and the servo acted appropriately. I know that doesn't rule out RF or motor interference but I will try swapping the servo and see what happens. I'm still waiting on parts so this thing is grounded until I can receive them and swap them.
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Old Oct 29, 2012, 02:47 PM
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United States, MI, East Tawas
Joined Aug 2011
120 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by j35u5fr34k View Post
I think it might be the vibe causing it. Read on another post that it could cause it. I took the tail motor and the main motor offline and the servo acted appropriately. I know that doesn't rule out RF or motor interference but I will try swapping the servo and see what happens. I'm still waiting on parts so this thing is grounded until I can receive them and swap them.
Well I found that I had a servo wire that was resting on my BL motor. It wore through the protective covering on the wire. Once I moved it, no twitchy servo. I will put a piece of tape on it or possibly some rubber cement. Fortunately it only wore through one of the wires.
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Last edited by j35u5fr34k; Oct 29, 2012 at 02:56 PM. Reason: added clarification
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Old Oct 29, 2012, 05:07 PM
Human Being
Joined Jun 2011
1,435 Posts
Hey guys, there are already a few good vids out there for the Devo 7 tx, but I haven't yet seen one that's all inclusive. I had a bit of extra time yesterday so I made a fairly long video of all of my Devo 7 settings with my mini cp, and I tried my best to explain as much as I knew about the different settings along the way.

The video is aimed at people with some prior heli experience, but perhaps just getting into 6 channel helis and tx setups, so i tried to go through it rather quick while still including all the info i could, so it ended up a little long.

I posted the times in the video that I went through each setting, and if you go to the video on youtube you can find all the times in my video description that i went through each setting and skip straight to the relevant part for you.

I hope this helps at least a few people, and let me know if you have any questions.

Walkera Devo7 walkthrough part 1.mp4 (14 min 44 sec)


Walkera Devo7 walkthrough part 2.mp4 (24 min 39 sec)
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Last edited by dilberto; Oct 29, 2012 at 05:13 PM.
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Old Oct 30, 2012, 05:30 AM
Registered User
Israel, Adi
Joined May 2006
131 Posts
Hi
after doing some "homework" i would like to know what do you guys think about this setup?

ESC:
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s..._100_etc_.html
Main Motor
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...ade_mCPx_.html
Tail Motor
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...er_7500kv.html

Thanks...
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Old Oct 30, 2012, 06:26 AM
Deviant
sbstnp's Avatar
Joined Jul 2012
1,190 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by guytzoler View Post
Hi
after doing some "homework" i would like to know what do you guys think about this setup?

ESC:
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s..._100_etc_.html
Main Motor
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...ade_mCPx_.html
Tail Motor
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...er_7500kv.html

Thanks...
ESC is good, main is almost stock power, don't expect miracles. Get this for tail, you'll have to drill bigger holes in your tail props, stock they are 1mm, this is 1.5mm:
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...CPX_heli_.html


Get this too for flashing and setting BLHELI up (only 4 in stock):
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dProduct=25433 (buddy code)


PS: And HobbyKing does it again. The double ESC is much more expensive in other places. People were saying that HK doesn't adhere to MAP and this will never be restocked. Haha, guess sales volume does it again.
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Old Oct 30, 2012, 09:01 AM
Registered User
HeHenri's Avatar
Czech Republic, Prague
Joined Mar 2012
27 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Crash Survivor View Post
I think it would be very hard to bend the feathering shaft. But what gets messed up making the feathering shaft appear bent are those blade holder rubber O rings the center hole gets oblong/out of round that the feathering shaft rest in. When that happens your blade tracking gets off also.
Itís definitely not hard to bend the feathering shaft, especialy if you attempt to learn 3D flying. My consumption of feathering shafts was quite high, so I started to straighten it up.

http://www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=462075
(excuse me my bad english Ė not featuring, but feathering shaft in that thread)
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Old Oct 30, 2012, 11:15 AM
Mini CP - Nano CPX - Devo 6
Couchking's Avatar
United States, CA, Laguna Niguel
Joined Nov 2010
205 Posts
Hey guys,

My RX battery lead has been giving me trouble for months, with symptoms along the lines of short flights that lack power. My Mini is brushless and I've been getting 1 minute flight times with 240-300mah batteries before LVC mode kicks in, and my cells are only at 3.8-3.9v. Ive also been noticing a lot of tail wag about 30 seconds in, that i thibk has to do with not enough power being supplied. Upon removing the old wires and installing new ones, I wasn't able to get it working again. My solder skills are pretty basic, but I can usually handle any hobby related soldering task without trouble so I'd really like to fix this and save myself ~$70. I was wondering if someone experienced can check out these pictures of my RX and let me know if this board is beyond repair?

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Description: It looks like the + battery lead is burnt and part of the copper ring surrounding the positive spot on the PCB is elevated from the board about .05mm.
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Old Oct 30, 2012, 01:01 PM
Registered User
Israel, Adi
Joined May 2006
131 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by sbstnp View Post
ESC is good, main is almost stock power, don't expect miracles. Get this for tail, you'll have to drill bigger holes in your tail props, stock they are 1mm, this is 1.5mm:
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...CPX_heli_.html


Get this too for flashing and setting BLHELI up (only 4 in stock):
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dProduct=25433 (buddy code)


PS: And HobbyKing does it again. The double ESC is much more expensive in other places. People were saying that HK doesn't adhere to MAP and this will never be restocked. Haha, guess sales volume does it again.
What do you think will be a better main motor ? because right now when i flip it i am loosing a lot of head speed and power and i want to be able to do clean flips...
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Old Oct 30, 2012, 08:41 PM
Registered User
i812's Avatar
Joined Aug 2009
5,114 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Couchking View Post
Hey guys,

My RX battery lead has been giving me trouble for months, with symptoms along the lines of short flights that lack power. My Mini is brushless and I've been getting 1 minute flight times with 240-300mah batteries before LVC mode kicks in, and my cells are only at 3.8-3.9v. Ive also been noticing a lot of tail wag about 30 seconds in, that i thibk has to do with not enough power being supplied. Upon removing the old wires and installing new ones, I wasn't able to get it working again. My solder skills are pretty basic, but I can usually handle any hobby related soldering task without trouble so I'd really like to fix this and save myself ~$70. I was wondering if someone experienced can check out these pictures of my RX and let me know if this board is beyond repair?

Attachment 5268799Attachment 5268800 It looks like the + battery lead is burnt and part of the copper ring surrounding the positive spot on the PCB is elevated from the board about .05mm.
It is difficult to see from the somewhat blurry photos, but it looks like they are the "classic" images of what happens when someone "parks" their soldering iron for too long, and/or excessively man-handles parts and ruins solder pads and traces when trying to remove parts.

Solder bridges (I'm not certain you have any) can be removed by careful reheating and allowing excess solder to "wick" onto the tip of a "clean" soldering iron or onto a bare wire. Clean tip of soldering, or cut of tip of bare wire and re-wick as required to remove all excess solder.

Lifted/Missing solder Pads (it looks like you may have a few at the Power Lead connections on both sides of the PWB) can be made functional by the Jumper-wire technique. Most of the PWB traces can be improvised by solder tacking 30 AWG insulated wire from component lead to component lead. BTW, I believe most people lift or ruin Solder Pads or traces is from using excessive manhandling of parts when trying to remove them from the PWB. Probably the best way to remove "stubborn" through hole parts from a PWB is to "wick" (as described above on how to remove solder bridges) and remove the existing solder from the joint, prior to gently removing the part. Using excessive force to "rip" the part off the PWB, is probably the easiest way to ruin a solder pad or trace.

One of the most important things to learn about soldering is DON'T CAMP. Just heat the solder joint long enough to melt the solder joint, then LEAVE. You're not trying to "roast" stuff, you're only trying to "wet" (turn solid crystalline solid into it's liquid phase) the solder, any additional heating after the melting point will not make the solder "wetter" (more liquid), it will only raise the temperature. When soldering you only want to use enough heat to melt the solder, not raise the temperature much more than the melting point. "Camping" with a soldering iron, should only be done for roasting things like marshmallows, and hot dogs, not electrical parts.

I can't tell for certain by looking at your blurry photos, but from the first photo on the left, it looks like both Power lead solder pads on that side of the board are questionable (no longer making good electrical connections). If so, I would simply improvise a new/extra electrical connection from each power lead to the Capacitor (yellowish looking part to the left of Power lead solder pads)

I can't tell for certain by looking at your blurry photos, but from the second photo on the right, it looks like both Power lead solder pads may be missing (not making electrical connections) on that side of the board. If so, then I'd use the 30 AWG Jumper Wire repair technique. Without assembly drawings giving component names, it would be difficult and time consuming for me to describe the required "From .... To ..." Jumper Wire connections. It would be much simpler to have someone take a close-up photo showing the traces on a good PWB, so you can inspect and identify where all the required electrical component connects should be, as well as what is NOT supposed to be connected. I would take a close up photo of a good PWB for you to compare against, but I don't have the proper equipment. If you want to attempt do the micro-soldering repair, then perhaps you can request someone post a close-up photo of both sides of a a good PWB?

Finally, some of the electrical parts in your photo look like they are discolored. The discoloration may be a sign that the electrical part may have been heated to much, and may have been internally deformed/damaged. Most electrical parts are designed to withstand some heat (enough heat AND for as long a time to melt solder, BUT not for extended time periods - i.e. NO CAMPING )

Soldering is fairly easy to learn and do; however it is best to learn on scrap boards, because if you learn on your own like I did (last century), you'll learn from trial and error. It was easier to learn how to solder last century, because the electrical parts and PWB traces back then were about ten times larger. Today, electrical circuit board rework requires better vision, steadier hand, more patience, and smaller soldering tip (actually most of the rework on this board would probably best be accomplished with a Hot Air Reflow Nozzle).

If any of y'all in the US have boards that you'll be trashing, please give them to me. I'll gladly pay for the shipping (should be about $2 USPS First Class Mail). I have a few boards someone asked me to fix but they are missing parts (connectors, FETS, etc).

I'd offer to fix your board, because it looks like it only needs re-soldering and maybe some extra Jumper Wire; however, I don't think it would be fair to fix yours before I fix the others that I have.
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Last edited by i812; Oct 30, 2012 at 10:50 PM.
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